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Buttonholes are awesome on this machine. We’re going to show you three different ones. One
using the sensored buttonhole foot, that’s the one with the red wheel and the plugin.
A second one using the manual C-foot, it’s the one with the little longer nose on one
end. Then we’re also going to do a corded buttonhole too. That’s great for when you
have stretchy fabrics and you need a little stability, or something for a wool coat, that’s
a perfect place to do.
You can use your sewing advisor and tell it what fabric you’re working on and it will
tell you which buttonhole you want to use. You can also pick number 0, and then up top
where all your stitches are, stitches number 28 through 34, lots of different types for
different types of fabric.
First off, let me show you on the sensored one. On the red wheel, there’s a part that
has a little white brown on it. There’s going to be a time right before we start to
sew that we need to make sure that that’s lined up with the white line. If it’s not,
the machine will show you a little picture on screen to do that.
I’m going to also show you where you plug it in. Put the foot on first, and then about
halfway back, you might tip your head underneath to actually see it. Once you get good, you
can usually kind of do it without looking and press it all the way up. Make sure you
give it a good push.
If you ever sew a buttonhole and it just keeps going, going, going, going and never stops,
well, that’s usually just you didn’t have this plugged in enough. We call those runaway
buttonholes.
What size of buttonhole do you need? Take your button, and right down here on the measuring
tool of the machine where it has a little 0 and that dotted circle, place your button
next to 0 and you can see that this is about an, oh let’s see here, 16, 17 millimeter
buttonhole.
Come to your screen. Do you notice it has a little measuring? You can ... Let’s put
it up to 17, but you can make it any length you want, and then it’s ready to stitch.
Put your fabric in first, and then last thing you’re going to do is just take your finger
and adjust the white wheel to the white line, and start to sew.
It’s going to stitch backwards first, and then it’s going to go ahead and stitch again
to do the tack at the top. Stitch the second satin stitch down. Just keep your foot on
the foot control until it comes to a complete stop and locks the stitches, and cuts the
thread, and lifts the foot.
That is the most beautiful buttonhole you’ve ever seen. If this is correct, you can go
ahead and open that up, and then you can keep going, buttonhole after buttonhole.
On the buttonhole foot there are a couple lines right here up on the front side. You
could use that to line that up every time. You can put that on the edge of your fabric
so you start at the same place every time you do your next buttonhole.
Now, there’s times where you need to do it on other fabrics, or the buttonhole that
you’ve selected requires the manual foot. It will tell you if it doesn’t need the
sensor foot. The way this works, and you’re going to notice there’s going to be that
reverse button type picture on your screen, that means we are going to be using that to
tell it when to turn around, since it doesn’t know when and where we’re doing this.
We can go ahead and start though, the arrow shows you which way it’s going to go first.
Same thing, it’s going to go back. I would recommend drawing a mark at each end of the
buttonhole and in the placement you want. Touch the reverse button one time, and then
that will go ahead and set it. You’re going to need to stop it manually when those to
kind of get close together.
Touch the reverse button one more time. That will tell the machine to do the lock, or tack,
at the end, and lock it, and cut. Then you have a manual buttonhole. It also uses for
some of the mending, like if you need to mend up a buttonhole, you’d have a little bit
more control, or if you needed one much longer than the sensor buttonhole will allow you
to go.
Those are really pretty. I’ll just do one more different style of buttonhole, like for
knit fabric, also uses this manual buttonhole foot and will use the reverse button. Has
kind of some crisscross X’s as it stitches. It’s not as heavy, that’s because you
will find … There we go. You’ll find that on knit fabric, that will have a little bit
of give to it.
For a corded buttonhole, I’m going to pretend that we’re working on a stretchy, heavy
fabric, so fabric F. I chose buttonhole number, technique number 7, and it set it up for the
right buttonhole and the right foot. It’s showing me a little picture to cord it. That’s
that little loop of thread showing through there.
First thing you’re going to do is wrap it around. There’s a little pin, or heel to
the back of the foot, and that is going to sit, or hold, the cord. I just divided the
cord in half and set it to B over there. Lower the presser foot down, and then this is where
I’ll control the start and stop for it.
As I stitch, it’s just going to really drag the cord up through where I need it to go.
Touch the reverse button one time to tell it when to turn around and it will come and
stitch over the second side of the cord. I’ll show you why this works so well. Let me end
this here and give it a little lock, and pull it out.
This is what it’s going to actually look like, where there is the little cord going
up and around. First, go ahead and give that a little pull and it will pull itself and
disappear into the cord. It is very, very stable in here. You can go ahead and trim
that away, and that way you won’t even see the rest of the cord after it kind of slips
back up into the satin stitching, after you give it a little bit of a pull there.
The reason that works, because when we looped that cord around, here’s that little heal
that we talked about. Back here, there are two grooves underneath the presser foot. That’s
what tracks the cord perfectly for doing a corded buttonhole. That would be same thing
if you wanted to do it with the sensor foot. You could cord it there too.
Those are how easy buttonholes are going to be. Try out all the different other styles.
You’ve got some decorative ones and a really pretty heirloom one at stitch number 30, in
row 1.