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hi
I'm Teri Masaschi in the finishing shop today we have a project for finishing
it's an unfinished porch rocker it's not even assembled
brand new out of the box and its going to be a challenge
both in sanding and finishing we're going to need an arsenal
of sanding tools to be able to attack all the various parts and pieces of
this rocker
you're not going to be able to do much power sanding on
any of these parts as you can see there's rounds there's nooks theres
crannies
you might be able to power sand the rockers but that's about it
so we're going to get to work doing the sanding and prepping
to get this rocker up to stain and then ultimately to finish
begin with 120 on the finishing block
and sand every flat surface work from 120
to 150 to 180 it is tempting to power sand the seat
but the spinning disk would damage the slats use the block
sand the flats of the arm with the block
and use folded paper for the edge of the crest and the edges of the arm
the inside edges of the slats
are sharp and rough sawn work into those cracks with folded paper
the posts
and rungs needs moving with the maroon non-woven pads
the most difficult part of the whole rocker
is in between the spindles on the back the micro zip
is the only tool that will do it the rocker is now
all totally prepped it's been sanded it's been smoothed
defuzzed so it's ready for stain
there's a couple of things that we have to do before we stain
this rocker is disassembled
and I left it that way on purpose because it's much easier to stain
and finish before it's put together but there's areas that I don't want stain to
be on
the tennons being one of them so we're gonna tape those off
make sure those stay nice and squeaky clean
so that the glue will stick to them
the other issue
with this rocker is that there are parts
that are poplar this assembly is all
ash most have your back is ash
your top crest rail is poplar your rounds are poplar
the seat is poplar poplar is known as a treacherous wood
if you put stain in raw poplar
it will block horribly and it will be very very ugly
the ash we can go ahead and stain
and it will be beautiful let me show you
we're going to use
a golden oak wiping stain which
very beautiful on things like oak
and ash ash is very similar to oak
just going to flood the surface
get it all in those areas
Wow very nice
very pleasant color you can rag it on if you need to use a brush to get into
those tricky little areas you can certainly do that
let me just wipe that down
pretty very pretty
ash and oak are very very well behaved woods
now if we were to do that
to our poplar
I've got an example here a poplar board
let me throw some stain on here and show you what happens
when you do that that
is very very unattractive
you can see where it has just absorbed
into all the contrary
areas of the grain and its left what is known
as blotching that is a term in the industry
so we're going to do a treatment on the poplar parts
on the seat and on the back crest in the rungs
and we're going to keep this from happening
alright
all the parts of the rocker have been stained except for the poplar pieces
as I had mentioned before poplar is a treacherous wood
and we realized by putting some stain on this piece
this test sample that if we had done that it would have been really bad
so here we are all those pieces are stained
they're drying now we're going to pre-treat
the poplar and we're going to use
danish oil just a thin coat
let me show you on this sample board
quite simple
put it on
make sure it's thoroughly wet and then wipe the excess off
this has to dry
overnight and then tomorrow
we can then stain over this with
the seat you're gonna have to use a brush
because we have to get in all of these cracks
and the back as well we're going to have to
oil all the spindles in this top crest
but try not to get too much on the other ash parts
make sure you get
all that oil down on either side work it down in
flood the surface
and then after you've gotten through a few slats you can stop
then wipe your excess off and then that's all we can do until tomorrow case this oil
needs to dry thoroughly
and then we can to put some stain on here
so the danish oil has dried
and I scuff sanded it 320
nice flat board with the sanding block you're going to have to use a
combination
of the non-woven pad to get in here
and then maybe the sand paper folded to be able to
sand the contours of this area in here
and then we're going to stain
we've already got the other parts stained now we're gonna try the stain on
these areas that we have
pre-treated
that's already looking a whole lot better nice and clean
no uneven stain take and then down here where I didn't treat our sample
board
you can see an immediately the difference
here's where I put no danish oil whatsoever on down here
and then this is the area that was treated so our test sample shows that we
are good to
stain these areas now
certainly easy enough to rag on flats
but you are going to need a brush to get into
all these areas
once this is all stained and wiped back
we'll be able to let the stain dry assemble it
and then we can top coat
stain is now finally dry
and now we can attack this with a topcoat
it's tempting with such a complicated project
to go for an aerosol and you can certainly do that
but pay attention to the method in which you're going to be spraying with an
aerosol can
do not spray really close back it up
and then do multiple multiple light passes
continuous passes don't stop
start stop and then just keep going over the whole chair
and it's a really nice way to finish
something that has all these angles and rounds and
ins and outs so but if you decide
with the aerosol to do that remember these are thin coats
and you're going to need to put on at least four to five coats
light light passes I'm not going to do that I'm going to choose a water-based
product
I'm gonna brush it on and the trick with brushing on
very first this is a semi-gloss and their stuff in the bottom of the can
make sure you stir and stir and stir again
you don't want any of that sheen
to be said still sitting on the bottom of the can you want it mixed in
thoroughly
and when you begin brushing
get your brush
ready not a big sopping wet brush full
and start by doing
thin coats quickly
water-based finishes do dry very quickly
want to get in and get out get the area covered
it's going to be tricky because you're going to have to work first this side and
then this side
and try to contain any drips or sags
and you're going to need patience
to coat this chair really well
without a lot of problems no drips no sags it could take as much
as
half an hour 45 minutes so just take your time and do a good job
we've done three coats of an interior polyurethane on this
water-based goes real quick dries in about an hour you can scuff and then you
can go right into a second coat
this is plenty durable for an interior
piece of furniture if you're planning on putting this outside
get an exterior product get an exterior spar varnish
could be water base they're very nice to work with
and then put at least three to four coats on there as well
this is freshly finish dry to the touch but not cured
wait five to seven days before putting it into service
and I guarantee you when you put it in the house it's gonna be everybody's
favorite chair that they're gonna head to
looks beautiful very nice work