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This video is brought to you by Sailrite. In this video we will show you how to install
Lifeline Netting to your boat. This knotted safety line netting provides more security
for family, friends, pets and equipment. This heavy-duty netting is constructed from Dupont
#36 Twisted Nylon Twine and contains UV inhibitors to promote longer life and prevent rotting.
It is sold by the foot from Sailrite.
To determine how much lifeline netting and leechline is required you need to take measurements
around your boat. Here you can see that our netting is already installed, but Angela is
show how she took the measurements. Our boat has two gate openings, so we will
install two separate sections of netting. Shown in green and orange. We need to take
measurements around the boat for both those sections of netting. Using those measurements
we need to now calculate how much lifeline netting and leechline rope is required. You
may want to pause the video here to study these formulas and calculate the amount for
your particular boat. Here are the materials and tools that we used
to install this lifeline netting. At the end of this video we will be showing this list
yet again. After receiving all your supplies from Sailrite
you should be ready to install the lifeline netting to your boat. We're going to walk
you thru the process step by step. First cut the netting to the correct size for each span.
Remember to multiply the amount of netting required by 1.35 which will result in a length
that is 35 percent longer than the span to be covered.
Our netting will accommodate a leechline along the top edge and one along the bottom edge.
For the bottom edge we need to cut the leechline to the span size plus 25 percent. So, multiply
the span opening by 1.25 then cut the line to that length.
Now run the leechline along the bottom edge of the netting weaving it in and out, both
edges of the netting are the same so pick one to be the bottom. This weaving process
is very monotonous so be patient. Notice that the long edges of the Sailrite lifeline netting
have a double cord which improves its strength. We have only shown a short clip of the weaving
process. At this starting end we will want a few feet of leechline to protrude out from
the netting. We just need enough to tie it off at the first stanchion pole base.
To prepair for installation we need to drape the netting over the lifeline's top cable
as shown in the video. We will do this along the entire span where it will be installed.
As you can may already have noticed weve already installed the netting on the stern portion
of the boat. We are starting here at the gate opening and working to secure the netting
going to the bow then back to the gate opening on the port side of the boat now. Using zip
ties or cable ties are often helpful to keep the netting at the correct location as you
weave it in place with the leechline. Angela is not using the same leechline that
was used for the bottom of this netting, this is a new run of leechline, and we will not
cut it to size. Use this line to weave the netting to the pole then when we reach the
bottom of the stanchion pole we will tie it off.
We are going to demonstrate one way to attach the netting to the pole, but there are several
other ways it can be done, so if you prefer an alternative method, feel free to use yours
instead. We are opening up each diamond along the edge of the netting wrapping it around
the pole and then securing it by running the leechline thru the diamond and then moving
on to the next diamond. We will continue this process until we reach the lowest diamond
along the bottom edge of the netting. A little bit later on we will use a hot knife
to burn the excess netting cords that were cut. This will help to secure each of the
netting knots to keep them from coming undone. As you weave the netting to the pole, try
to gage the appropriate location where the netting will rest along the pole. What you
are trying to achieve is a square shaped diamond roughly 2 inches by 2 inches if the height
of the lifeline is about 24" if it is less you can expect the diamonds to be slightly
elongated, we will discuss this in more detail a little later on in this video.
We going to show this in double time because the process is the same all the way down to
the stanchion base. Angela is not too concerned about the shapes of the diamonds yet, she
will be when it comes to secure the leech line at each stanchion base. However, you
do have to be concerned about where the leechline will cross over the middle wire. So, try to
gage which diamond will eventually land at the lower lifeline wire location then weave
the leechline thru. Here we are at the last diamond.
We're going to remove this hook that was used to secure the bottom portion of the stern's
netting, which was already installed, just so you can see what we are doing better.
Now we will lash the line to the stanchion base using a clove hitch with additional half
hitches. If you have a knot of preference please feel free to use it instead.
Pass the line around the base forming a loop then pass the tail thru the loop and repeat
with additional half hitches for security. Once the knot is finished we will cut the
rope end with a hot knife leaving about 1/8 inch of rope. Then with the hot knife we will
melt the end of the rope to create a flat button which makes it difficult for the end
of the rope to pass back thru any loops. We're using the Sailrite edge hot knife here.
As discussed previously to secure each of the knots along the cut edge of the netting
we will use the hot knife and cut the line to about 1/8 inch then melt the end of the
line to create a small button again making it difficult for the knot to come undone.
Do this carefully so you don't burn the netting or leechline in places that you don't intend.
Take the leechline and weave it along the top edge of the netting and lifeline cable
to the next stanchion pole. Our application has over 65 feet of line that needs to be
weaved thru the netting and over lifeline cable, so we will have to pass length of line
thru each of the diamonds over and over again another long and boring job, but at least
it's an easy one. We skipped over the parts where Angela is pulling the long length of
line thru each diamond, so as not to bore you our viewer.
Once we reach the next stanchion pole we will stop and temporally tie the upper leechline
to the pole or lifeline cable, we will not show that. Then before you secure the lower
leechline to the stanchion base there, go back to the starting point and secure the
end of the lower leechline to that stanchion base. Do that by creating another clove hitch
with additional half hitches. Having a good hot knife like this Sailrite
Edge Hotknife comes in very handy as it heats up in only a few seconds and cools down in
about a minute. If you don't have a professional hot knife like this, you can use a wood burning
tool or soldering gun. The netting is now secure at the starting
point so we can now concentrate on creating square diamond shapes, approximately 2 inches
x 2 inches, as we proceed to the next stanchion pole. So, before you secure it at the next
base be sure you're happy with the tensioning of the netting. Tension it to your preference,
if it is too tight you may find your lifeline cables tend to curve down or dip as they are
under a lot of pressure from the netting. The height of our lifeline is about 24 inches
off the deck. So our diamond shapes will be almost square. However, if your lifeline height
is less than 24 inches you can expect the diamond shape to be elongated and that is
acceptable. Along the lower edge of the netting we will
tie the leechline around each stanchion base using a separate length of leechline cut to
about 3 feet. To do this will use the same procedure, use a clove hitch with additional
half hitches. First we will loop the line around the leechline then create the clove
hitch on one end of the line around the pole. Enough leechline is provided in our previous
calculations that you can cut away the opposite end of the top leechline rope to make these
approximate 3 foot long lines to tie at each stanchion base bottom.
Once that is done switch to the opposite end of the line and loop it around the front of
the pole and catch the bottom edge leechline on the opposite side. Now create the clove
hitch with additional half hitches yet again. We're going to show this in double time since
we have shown it once before. Simply keep weaving the leechline along top
edge of netting and lifeline cable to next pole. Then tie the lower leechline to stanchion
base using a separate length of leechline and repeat all the way around to the gate
or the last pole. Before we get to our gate on the opposite
side of the boat we want to show how we secure the netting around the bow pulpit. The process
is the same. A side note: If you prefer you could use a line and weave around each and
every stanchion pole securing the netting at each, this would make for a very secure
netting, but the process is more difficult and is thus a choice you need to make yourself.
We have chosen not to do this. If you would like to do this keep watching because we recommend
weaving the line around the pole using a candy cane stripe pattern, which is show when we
get the last gate opening. Before we go around the pulpit we will tie
off the upper line temporarily and then secure the lower line at the base of the pulpit using
a separate length of line (about 3 feet). Tie it using the same procedure as you have
seen earlier then move on. Sailrite sells a lifeline hook which can be
very helpful for boats where you cannot tie off at the toe rail. We will be showing this
in more detail later on. We're going to skip ahead and show only brief portions of the
weaving process, until we get to the other side of the bow pulpit.
If your boat's rigging is standing and in the way of the length of netting, you may
want to end the netting at the bow pulpit and move around the rigging to the opposite
side and start a separate run of netting there. Once we reach the end of the bow pulpit we
will temporarily tie of the upper leechline, which were not going to show, and then secure
the lower leechline at the base of each pole, we will show only one of those. Here we will
create a bowline knot around the leechline and then we will secure it with a clove hitch
and additional half hitches. We will show this in double time. We already seen enough
of this so let's move on. Our boat has a roller furling system that
is not set up, so we will not cut an opening in our netting to accommodate for it, but
rather we will press the drum up against the netting and attach it to the tang. This will
not be the case for most boats, as you will not want to remove your gear just to install
netting, One of the last chapters we show how to cut
a clean looking hole in the netting which is helpful in some applications, but we do
not show how to cut a slit in the netting leading up to the hole. If you applications
calls for that you will have to splice the netting back together using whipping twine
along the slit opening. Many boaters do not run netting around the bow pulpit, but end
it along the sides. The choice is yours. If you find you need to secure the lower line
at more locations than just the stanchion bases and your toe rail does not include areas
where lines may be attached you may want to opt to use the Lifeline hooks from Sailrite.
Our toe rail is teak and we will predrill holes and screw them in at locations where
we believe we need a little more security or tensioning. If you choice you can even
bend the hook down to secure the line even better, were not going to show doing this.
If your boat does not have a gate opening simply secure the netting to the last stanchion
pole with leechline as done in step 4. If you have a gate opening stop weaving the top
leechline at the gate pole. Now use cable ties to temporarily secure the netting across
the gate opening. Also temporarily tie the lower leechline to the stanchion base across
the gate opening. Then secure the lower line at the first gate pole with a cable tie, this
too will be temporary, as it is used to keep the tension you desire while weaving.
Using the top leechline at the first gate pole weave the netting along the vertical
length of the pole. However, this time we will use the line and cross around the pole
(as a candy cane stripe) catching the netting while doing this. This creates a clean simple
attachment to the pole allowing the netting to continue on past the gate opening. If you
desire to secure the netting at each and every stanchion pole you can do it in this manner
for best results. When we get to the base at the bottom we will
clip off any cable ties and then tie the line to that base as we did elsewhere. We will
not show tying it off. We want the netting to drape across the gate opening in a pleasing
manner so use more cable ties to draw it up tight if needed.
Once your happy release the temporary knot securing the lower leechline to the base.
We will secure a hook at this point so we can draw the bottom of the netting tight across
the gate opening while still allowing us to open up the netting for access.
The appropriate location of the hook is determined by the gates pelican hook location. We will
be cutting the extra netting off along a vertical plane that lies directly in line with our
pelican hooks. So Angela has determined that this is the location
she wants to install her hook so she passes the line around the netting first. Then she
will attach the hook at that location. This is the lower leechline. Do not cut away the
extra length of line yet, we will need it to go vertical to the top and then across
to the first gate pole. Then we will tie it off there.
Install the hook as show here in the video or if you prefer another way feel free to
do it. Attach the hook to the stanchion base and
then run the line up thru the netting keeping the line along the same plane as the pelican
hooks. We will be using shackles to secure the leechline at a position on the pelican
hook. Or if you prefer you could use pre-waxed twine to secure the line onto each pelican
hook. You must attach it to a location to a location on the hook that will not interfere
with the operation of the pelican hook. Before attaching the line and netting to the
pelican hooks Angela is going to continue to weave the line at the top thru the netting
and around the lifeline cable until she reaches the first gate pole. Notice that we have a
lot of extra line even after cutting many short lengths off to tie off each stanchion
base. Now she will use these shackles which fit
the pelican hooks that Sailrite sells. Your pelican hooks may be different so you might
want to use pre-waxed twine or different size shackles if required. Now we will do this
also for the second pelican hook below. Where we are placing the shackle will not interfere
with the hooks operation, that's important. Next to keep the netting up against the leech
line that runs vertically we will use pre-waxed twine and a hand needle and whip around the
netting knots and leechline. A knot has been made to the end of the waxed twine. Take the
needle and puncture the netting knot or line by the knot and then whip around the netting
knot and leechline. Whip around several times. Then puncture the whipping and cut the twine
leaving about an 1/8 inch of twine. After we are done whipping each knot we will come
back and burn the end of the waxed twine to create a flat button on the twine.
After that tie off the top leechline at the gate pole. Then trim all loose ends of the
netting, leechline and any whipping twine with a hot knife. Cut away any cable ties
that are no longer needed. Along the vertical end of the netting we will
cut the excess netting off and clean up our whipping with a hot knife.
Let's open up the gate and show you how it works.
That completes the process of installing the lifeline netting that is sold by Sailrite.
Stay tuned because in the next chapter were going to demonstrate the best way we know
of to create an opening in the netting for obstacles.
Here we have secured a sample section of netting to the Islander 37 trailer. We found that
the easiest way to cut a hole is to follow the diamond shape of the netting. So here
we are going to cut away 4 diamonds at each leg. Notice that we cut the line leaving about
1/8 inch of the line in place. Now before we run a length of leechline along the opening
we will use the Sailrite edge hot knife to burn the ends of the line and create a small
flat button yet again at each knot. If we left the netting now it is rather secure,
but we wanted to beef it up slightly so we will run a length of leechline along the opening
weaving it around the netting as we go. We will start at the top and tie a temporary
knot there. Other methods include using whipping twine and whip around the netting and leechine,
that's if you prefer. When we get to the top again we will remove
the knot, tension the rope and tie it off permanently and then burn the ends of the
line. This creates a nice looking hole in the netting and it is also very secure. If
you have to cut a slit leading to the hole, to allow passage of an immovable object, you
will need to use whipping twine and tie up the slit after the netting is placed around
the object. This process would have to be performed as you are weaving the top leechline
around the lifeline wire or tubing, so it (the leechline) would not need to be cut when
creating the slit in the netting. We will not show creating a slit in the netting.
Our lifeline netting is now installed all around our boat and at each gate opening we
have a fairly easy way to still provide safety netting and also allow for passage. The processes
in this video are suggestions only, many other techniques may also be explored for the installation
of safety netting. Stay tuned for a materails list of the items and tools we used to install
this lifeline netting from Sailrite. We used a 5ply waxed flat twine in this video,
but if you prefer you could use a larger Polyester Whipping Twine (item 102576) from Sailrite.
The netting and most of the supplies for this project can easily be ordered from Sailrite.
For more free videos like this be sure to check out the Sailrite website or subscribe
to the Sailrite Youtube channel. I'm Eric Grant and from all of us here at Sailrite
thanks for watching this video! It's your loyal patronage to Sailrite that makes these
free videos possible, thanks for your loyal support!