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Congratulations on your new White
1735. The first thing to do once you remove your machine from the box is place it on a
flat surface like a table.
Then you're going to plug it in and turn the machine on.
Before sewing you want to make sure to use a good quality sewing thread
you also want to use good quality needles,
especially the recommended brand. The first thing your going to do is wind
a bobbin. So take your thread
pull up your spool pin holder, take one of the felt pads and stick it
onto the spool pin to prevent static electricity as you sew.
Place the thread spool on the spool pin,
wrap the thread around the bobbin tension
disk and back around to the side.
There are two ways to wind your bobbin. You can place the bobbin on the bobbin
winder
and wrap the thread around a few times, or
you can take the thread and stick it through one of the holes
found in the bobbin you want to make sure to leave yourself a little tail
to hang onto and then place that bobbin back onto the bobbin spindle,
We're then going to activate the bobbin by pushing it over to the right side
before I press on the pedal though, I need to deactivate
the needle for moving up and down and then activate the bobbin winding.
To do that, I'm going to pull out my hand wheel. And now we're ready to go.
Press on the pedal.
The bobbin and will stop winding when it is full. When it stops,
you want to push the bobbin back over to the left side and remove the bobbin from
the bobbin spindle
then take your sisters and cut the thread. Now we need to put the bobbin
into the bobbin case.
To get to the bobbin case we need to remove our accessory tray
and just so you know, if you pull down on your accessory tray, you have a nice
little tray inside appear to put
all your different supplies. To remove it we're gonna pull it off to the side,
set it down. Open
up down here and there is by bobbin case
We're going to pull it, out take my
bobbin stick it in the bobbin case so that the thread
when it comes of the bobbin will be winding counterclockwise.
And we need to stick the thread through the bobbin tension
there's an opening in the bobbin case. We're going come down to the bottom
and you'll hear click into the tension once it is through you will feel that
there's some tension on that thread as you pull it out. Turn the bottom case
over hold up on the handle and place the bobbin case back
into the bottom. We're gonna leave this open because we need to pull our bobbin
thread up
to the machine so now we need to thread. We're going to take our thread,
take it out of that bobbin tension disk,
take your thread go in from the front, underneath and pull it
back toward you until it clicks right in. Then we're going go down
through your thread tension back
up around the side to our take-up lever
you want to go in front of this metal piece back here from the right
and down to the left down the machine
there's a hook on the top at the needle. You need to go in from the right side
And then
thread your needle. Sometimes it is easier if you lower your presser foot
to thread your needle.
Once you've threaded your needle, raise your presser foot,
turn your hand wheel toward you holding on to your thread
and then poll up on that thread until you pull your bobbin thread up to the
top.
Then we can close up the bottom, take our thread
underneath the presser foot in towards the back of the machine. You can put our
accessory tray back on,
and we're ready to start sewing. Before we begin sewing we want to set our
thread tension disk between three and five
if we're working on heavier or lighter fabric we might want to adjust that
either
making it a lower number are higher number but the regular setting is
between three and five so I'm gonna leave it at 4
we also want to set are presser foot pressure the amount of pressure that the
presser foot is going to put on the fabric
that is found inside there are four different settings it starts at zero and
moves down to three
for regular weight fabric we should leave it set at two.
If you're working on lighter fabric you might want to move it up to one
or if you're working on heavier fabric you might want to move down to three
we're going to keep it set at two, for our sewing today.
I'm going to start with a straight stitch
"Straight stitch" on my machine is "A" stitch
"A" the first thing I need to do is set my stitch
selector guide at "A". I also want to set my stitch width
dial at 0 because I'm sewing a regular straight stitch
and I'm going to set my stitch length about 2.5 which is the regular stitch
length for regular weight fabric
I'm gonna take my fabric, place it underneath, make sure to put my presser
foot down
and start sewing.
When you begin sewing you want to reverse to secure your stitches at the
beginning and at the end.
Reverse again.
Make sure you finish with your take-up lever in the upright position,
raise your presser foot, cut your threads
there's a cutter on the back side of your needle. And there you go!
Regular straight stitch.
If you're sewing on heavier fabric, for example, a denim.
You might want to lengthen your stitch length so I'm set at 2.5. I going to move up to
about
three-and-a-half longer stitch length for that heavier fabric.
Place at underneath put that presser foot down
and sew. Remember to secure your edges
make sure you take up levers all the way in the
upright position. Raise your presser foot, cut those threads
And there you go! Straight stitch on a heavier fabric.
You can also sew a zipper in with your regular centered straight stitch
and there's a special foot you can use that is your zipper foot which comes with
your machine
this is what the zipper foot looks like. It can go on the machine two ways:
Either on the right hand side or on the left hand side to remove the presser
foot I have on now there's a lever on the backside
if I press that towards me it will drop that presser foot down
I can remove that pressure foot I will stick my
zipper foot underneath and lower my presser foot
down onto the foot so that when I lift it back up, it's attached.
I have my zipper foot on the right side, so if I take my zipper
and my fabric it's easiest to place your zipper
on the right hand side if that foot lower your presser foot
and you're ready to sew. However, the last time I sewed, I had that 3.5 stitch length, so I
need to
lower my stitch length down to that 2.5 stitch length.
And now I'm ready to sew.
Make sure to secure your stitches at the bottom. Your take up levers in the upright
position
with your presser foot and cut your threads.
To sew the other side in, we're going to
remove our presser foot by pressing that lever in the back moving it over to the
left side
lower it down.
Then take our zipper and line up the other side the right hand side of the zipper
along with zipper foot and sew.
Make sure you take up levers all the way up cut your threads.
And there you go! you've sewn a zipper in.
you can also darn or nend with your center straight stitch
the best foot to use is the zigzag foot that comes with your machine
so we're going to take off our zipper foot. Place the zigzag foot underneath,
lower that presser foot on top
make sure to take those threads underneath the foot and towards the back
place your project underneath and lower the presser foot.
To do darning and mending we're going to take a few stitches forward and then we're going to
reverse.
as I'm sewing, I will go forward few stitches and backwards a few stitches,
pulling my fabric to the side as I go, to cover up the hole.
When you're finished, make sure your take up lever's in the upright position.
Raise your presser foot, cut your threads.
And you fixed it!
Top stitching is a great technique to do decorative detail on your projects.
Using your straight stitch, put your project underneath
(right side facing up) lower your presser foot
and sew. Making sure to reverse at the beginning and the end
make sure your take up lever's all the way in
the upright position. Raise your presser foot and cut your threads.
nice decorative detail. You can also do basting with your machine.
It is stitch "A" again, but it is a little bit longer
which means I need to lengthen my stitch length it right now to set at 2.5 I'm going to
take it all the way down to four
for basting stitch my project underneath lower my presser foot
when you baste you do not want to secure those ends.
you want to leave them open.
Make sure you end with your take-up lever all the way in upright position.
Raise your presser foot and cut your threads,
and there you have your basting stitch. The basting stitch is nice
because all you have to do is pull on one other threads. And you can pull out the
stitches.
You can also gather with your straight stitch. Making sure your length is
still set at "4.0". We're going to sew.
Again, make sure not to secure your edges at the beginning or the end
and with your take-up lever and upright position raise your presser foot,
and cut your threads. The best way to gather is by having two rows of these
basting stitches. So take your project underneath
lineup that first row of stitching right along the edges of that presser foot
and sew again.
With your take-up lever up, raise your presser foot
and cut your thread. The easiest way to gather
is to grab either both of the needle threads or both
the bobbin threads, and pull.
You can spread your gathers around
make them more open, or more tightly close together
but there you go you have some gathers. You have five different zigzag stitches on
your machine.
They're shown on the front. They go from a one-millimeter
all the way up to a five-millimeter. The numbers correlate with their width
at the very top your stitch width dial so with your stitch width dial set at one
you look at the first zigzag stitch. The second
zigzag stitch is with your stitch width dial set at two.
Let's start at one and we'll move all the way up to five.
Take your fabric underneath, lower your presser foot,
and begin sewing.
Stopping with my needle in the upright position out at the fabric
I can switch to the two stitch width,
and now will have the larger
zigzag stitch.
Stopping again with my needle out at the fabric moving it up to three
I will have the third zig-zag stitch.
stopping again with my needle out turning the stitch width to "4".
I will have the fourth zig-zag stitch
and last one ending with my needle out
switching the dial to "5" I'll have the widest zig-zag stitch.
again make sure you end with your take-up lever in the upright position,
raise your presser foot, cut your threads
there are different stitch widths, starting at one-millimeter
going down to two, three,
four and five.
You have a couple different stitches on your machine to do a blind hem
there's the "B" stitch, there's also the "E" stitch.
We're going to use the "E" stitch, so I'm gonna turn my stitch selector guide
so that the arrow points down to "E".
Now "E" is one of the green stitches so on my stitch length I want to make sure that
I'm set for stitch length within the green section.
I'm gonna leave it at 2.5 because that is in the green section.
there's a special foot you can use for blind hem. It is your blind hem
foot, so I'm going to remove the foot on the machine
and place the blind hem foot underneath. Lower the presser foot,
lift it back up, and remember to take those threads underneath the foot
towards the back
to do a blind hem you're going to take your project and fold up your hem
then you're going to take the fabric (the extra fabric), and fold it down.
So you will see a little bit at the top part of your hem. If you look from
the side it kind of looks like a backwards "S".
Once you have folded that, you're going to take it underneath
so that the fold of your fabric is on the left hand side
on this little *** on the foot. We're going to lower our presser foot so that fold is
right along that ***.
with this blind hem stitch you have the width
on the machine the width on the machine determines how far over
this zigzag of the blind hem stitch will go
so if I keep it said it 0 I'm just gonna have a regular stitch width
If I move it
to let's try "2.5" or "3"... let's do "3".
I start to sew, I'll do a couple regular straight stitches and then I'll do that
zigzag if I catch too much fabric
when I do that zigzag, it will be way over inside the fabric
and actually it is a little bit too far. So I'm going to back up my zigzag
my stitch width, by moving it back down to "2".
It is a good idea to practice this on a little sample piece of your fabric
before you get started.
Secure your stitches, make sure your take up lever's all the way in the upright
position.
Raise your presser foot and cut your threads.
There it is from the top, but if I lift up my fabric
this is what you'll see from the front. You can see at the very beginning
you can see some of my stitches that's where my sitch with was set at "3".
So I was catching a little bit too much fabric. Then I moved it down and you can't
see my stitches anymore.
There's a great stitch on your machine to sew elastic on
that is stitch "C" which is the box stitch
I'm gonna turn my stitch so we'll get to that "C" stitch
what that stitch will do is sew across my elastic and so on the other
the best foot to use is your zigzag foot So I'm going to take off my blind hem foot
and put my zigzag back on. Again, don't forget to take those threads to the back
of the machine under the foot
I'm going to take my piece of elastic in my project
right side facing down, and put my elastic underneath the foot right in the
center
I want to make sure my stitch width
is set as wide as I possibly want it to be to go over my elastic.
my elastic is pretty wide so I'm going to set my stitch width
at "5" the widest it will go. I'm going to sew.
Make sure you end with your take-up lever up
Raise your presser foot and cut your threads.
And you've sewn your elastic in.
If you pull on your elastic, you cause it together.
you have a great stitch on your machine called the three step zigzag stitch
it is stitch "D", so I'm going to turn my stitch selector guide
to "D" and leave my stitch width at five so it'll be the widest
the three steps zigzag is a great stitch to use to finish your edges
especially if they're fraying kind of like mine are.
So we're going to take our project underneath lower our presser foot
and begin to sew.
Make sure to end with your take-up lever up
Raise your presser foot and cut your threads and that will prevent
your fabric from fraying. You can also
mend a tear with your three steps zigzag if you place the tear underneath the
presser foot
so that it is right in the center and do your three steps zigzag it will close it up.
remember to secure at the beginning and end.
When you get to the bottom if you press and hold that
reverse button, you can go right back over it,
and then come right back down again.
Don't forget to end with your take-up lever up raise your presser foot
and you mended your tear. You can also make great button holes with your machine
using your buttonhole foot we're going to remove our
other foot to put our buttonhole foot on. Place it underneath lower that presser
foot
the way to determine how
big you need to make your buttonhole, how long you need to make it is by taking
your actual button you're gonna sew on and go through the buttonhole
and placing it along the side. Measure how long that button
is based on these red notches on the side of the buttonhole foot
I'm gonna stop write about it that line because that'll be the perfect size
buttonhole
Then I'm going to place the button down take our project and bring it underneath.
I'm using my project, my piece of fabric
I also have a piece of stabilizer underneath here you probably have
interfacing
because lots of times where you put buttonhole you'll have interfacing
instead of stabilizer
I'm going to lower my presser foot, but first I need to choose
my stitch on this machine I have three stitches for my buttonhole
There's stitch "F", "G", and "H".
I'm going to start with "H" which has a"1" underneath it. That's how I know I
start there
step one is going to go down on the left side
then step two going to "G" is going to do my bar tack at the bottom.
step three is stitch "F" it will do
the right hand side of my *** and I go back to "G" for step four which will
do the bar tack at the top
so let's turn our stitch selector to
'H". I also want to make sure my stitch
length is set for buttonhole the buttonholes are the yellow stitches
so if I turn my stitch length dial I will find the yellow
and line it up along there. It's right about 0.
I also am going to leave my stitch width at five
that is because that'll give me a nice wide buttonhole
and now I'm ready to sew.
I'm going to stop sewing the left side
when the marks on the foot lineup with the red
line on the side
I need to stop and make sure my needle is out at the fabric
now I'm gonna switch to "2" which is "G"
so turn my stitch selector to "G", sew about four or five times across
again end with my needle in the upright position
now I need to do "3" which is stitch "F", so turn it to
"F" and sew.
I'm going to sew until the red lines end up at the top
and now I need to do the fourth step which is the top part of my buttonhole
turn it back to "G", go back and forth about four times
and with your needle out and your take up a lever all the way to the top
Raise your presser foot take your project out
and cut your threads. There you go, you have a buttonhole!
Once you've sown your buttonhole,
you're ready to sew your button on. To do that, you're going to remove your
buttonhole foot
and put on your button foot. This is your button foot.
Place it underneath, lower the presser foot.
Now when I sew buttons on, I'm going to go back to my zigzag stitch
on my machine remember I five different zigzag stitches but they're all underneath
"A".
So, I'm going to turn my stick selector back to "A".
and the different zigzags are the different widths of the zigzag, so I'm
gonna set my stitch width
at around "3". I also need to lower my feed teeth when I sew a button on,
so that my stitches will not move my fabric will not move when I sew my button on.
to get to my feed teeth, I need to
open up my accessory tray. Move it out of the way.
Open up to see my bobbin case your feed teeth the lever is right here
there's also a diagram that shows if your feed teeth are up
if the levers up your feed teeth are up if the lever is down your feed teeth are down
my feed teeth are right here when I press
down on the lever you will see them drop down then I'm just going close this
back up.
Put my accessory tray back on, take my project underneath
again I have fabric and a piece of stabilizer. You'll probably have that
interfacing instead of stabilizer
but that'll keep the fabric from bunching up underneath
the button that I line my button up underneath the foot
and put the foot down before I start sewing before I press on the pedal,
I'm going to turn my hand wheel towards me so that the needle will go into the
buttonhole on one side
and then come out and swing to the other side and go down
if you do not have the right stitch width it will not go through that second
hole
you want to make sure you're set for the right stitch width before you press on
the pedal.
Once you are sure you can press on the pedal but do a few stitches back and forth
go back and forth about four or five times
and don't forget to turn your hand wheel so that your take up lever's all the
way to the top, raise your presser foot
pull your button out, and cut your threads and you've sewn your button on.
you can also do stippling and free hand embroidery with your machine
the first thing you're gonna want to do is hoop your fabric and some stabilizer
when we do free motion or stippling we need to remove
the presser foot and the ankle it's easiest to remove the presser foot
first and then
undo this screw to release the ankle
remember my feed teeth were down,
so I keep those feed teeth down place
my hoop underneath. I need to make sure
that I lower my presser foot if I don't lower my presser foot
I don't have my thread tension we're going to go back to our
"A" stitches are straight stitches and zigzag I'm going to start with a straight stitch
and to do a straight stitch remember we need to be set
at 0 stitch width. When I do free motion because I have those feed teeth dropped,
I need to move the hoop around with my hands
So, the first thing I'm gonna do is hold on to the thread and turn the hand
wheel towards me.
To draw the bobbin thread up to the top. Then I'm going to take a few stitches
stop and cut those threads.
Traditional stippling, you try not to cross over your edges.
Remember, we can also use our zigzag stitches as well.
The way to get to the zigzag stitches is by changing my stitch width.
I'm gonna go to "3" for the third stitch width,
the third zigzag, and sew.
You can make ladders, or different interesting designs.
When you're all finished,
you want to stop with your needle in upright position make sure that take up
lever's up to the top.
Raise your presser foot, pull your project out
and cut those threads and you've done your own
stippling and free hand embroidery. You also have some great stretch stitches on
your machine
the first one we're going to use is "I", that's your straight overlock stitch.
These stitches are great to use on knit fabrics.
To get to stitch "I", I'm going to turn my stitch selector guide
over to "I". When I use my stretch stitches, especially this one
I'm gonna set my stitch width at "5", that way it will do the widest stitch as I
sew.
I also need to set my stitch length to be in the red area or the stretch stitch
area. So if I turn it that is set at "4",
and then I'm ready to go. Put your project underneath lower your presser
foot
and sew.
Make sure your take up lever's up
Raise your presser foot, and cut your threads.
You have a great seam overcast stitch on your machine. That is stitch
"K". So I'll turn my stage selector to "K".
Take my project, right sides together,
underneath the machine, lower the presser foot,
and sew.
When you're finished make sure to end, with your take-up lever up.
Raise your presser foot and cut your threads. And there you go!
So you're sewn your seam and overcast it to the edge. Once you've done that, you can
take your scissors
and cut off your extra fabric all the way up to that stitching line.
You also have a reinforced zigzag stitches and
reinforced straight stitch on your machine. This is a great way to show your
seams in knits.
Let's start with the first one. There are actually
five different L stitches if we start with the first "L",
move our selector dial over to "L", that's actually
set at one millimeter stitch width, and then begin sewing.
This wind up looking like a lightning stitch, which is a great way to sew a seam
on knit fabrics. When you stretch that knit fabric that stitch will hold
the fabric together. If we want to get the wider
L stitches we just move our stitch width up, by move up to "2",
and sew my stitch,
it will be a little bit wider. If I stop,
again, make sure my needles out of the fabric, move up to "3",
it'll even be wider.
Stop with the needle up. Move to "4",
and stop with the needle up and move to "5", our widest.
if you move your stitched width dial all the way down to "0".
remember at "0 "for stitch width,
we will have a straight stitch. So with the L stitch we will have a straight
reinforced stitch.
Make sure to end with your take-up lever all the way up
Raise your presser foot and cut your threads. So from this
top we started with the one millimeter moved up to 2
to "3", to "4", to "5".
and down to our "0" stitch width which gives us that reinforced straight stitch.
Again these are great stitches for knits, because they don't pop,
like when you stretch your fabric. The last stitch on your machine
is the double overlock stitch that is the M stitch.
This is the industry's way up finishing hems on knit garments.
so if I turn my state selector dial to"M",
I have that stitch chosen. I also want to make sure I set my stitch width
"5" so it'll do that wide stitches I sew,
and remember my stitch length is still set in that red area under "4".
We're then going to take our fabric, fold down our hem,
sew from the right side,
put the foot down and sew.
make sure to end with your take-up lever all the way in the upright
position
Raise your presser foot and cut your threads
and you've done your hem.
These are just a few of the great things you can do with your new white 1735.
If you'd like some new project ideas don't forget to visit our website.
Happy sewing!