Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
>>> AFTER NINE DAYS OF THREATS
OF AND WHAT WAS THE MOST
CHAOTIC, DIFFICULT, YET AMAZING
TRIP OF MY LIFE, THE LAST THING
THAT STANDS BETWEEN US AND OUR
FLIGHT HOME IS THE REASON WE
CAME.
THE CONGO RIVER ITSELF.
>> IT HAS TO BE PAID TOMORROW.
>> THE U.N. TRUCK SAID HE'S BEEN
HERE SINCE THIS MORNING.
>> WHAT'S UP, FRED,?
>> THEY'RE STARTING THE ENGINE.
>> AWESOME.
>> JUST BROKE DOWN AGAIN?
>> YEAH.
>> WE NOW HAVE ONE HOUR OF
DAYLIGHT LEFT.
>> THEY BURIED THE ENGINES AND
THEN --
>> OKAY GREAT.
>> HERE IT COMES.
>>> YOU LEARN QUICKLY.
IN CONGO, THINGS CHANGE AT A
MOMENT'S NOTICE.
>> WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE.
♪ I TOOK A WALK ♪
♪ THROUGH THIS BEAUTIFUL WORLD ♪
♪ FELT THE COOL RAIN ON MY
SHOULDER ♪
♪ FOUND SOMETHING GOOD ♪
♪ IN THIS BEAUTIFUL WORLD ♪
♪ I FELT THE RAIN GETTING
COLDER ♪
♪
♪
♪
>>> EVERYONE GETS EVERYTHING HE
WANTS.
I WANTED TO SEE THE CONGO.
FOR MY SINS, THEY LET ME.
IN "HEART OF DARKNESS" JOSEPH
CONRAD WRITES OF HIS ALTER
EGO -- WHEN I WAS A LITTLE CHAP,
I HAD A PASSION FOR MAPS.
AT THAT TIME THERE WERE MANY
BLANK SPACES ON EARTH.
BUT THERE WAS ONE YET, THE
BIGGEST, THE MOST BLANK, THAT I
HAD A HANKERING AFTER.
THIS THEN IS THE CONGO.
THE SIZE OF ALL WESTERN EUROPE
COMBINED.
IT SHOULD BE AFRICA'S WEALTHIEST
NATION.
THE PEOPLE FORGET, OR NEVER EVEN
KNEW, THAT THE 20th CENTURY'S
FIRST HOLOCAUST HAPPENED HERE
WHEN BELGIUM'S KING LEOPOLD
MANAGED TO BAM BOOZELE GIVING
HIM PERSONAL TITLE TO THE CONGO.
LEOPOLD'S AGENTS OF WHOM THE
MYTHICAL KURTZ WAS ONE, RAIDED,
SLAUGHTERED, MUTILATED AND
PRESSED INTO FORCED LABOR MUCH
OF THE POPULATION, IN A
BLOODTHIRSTY QUEST FOR FIRST
IVORY AND THEN RUBBER.
WHEN INDEPENDENCE FINALLY CAME,
THE BELGIANS TRASHED WHAT THEY
COULD, AND LEFT BEHIND A
COMPLETELY UNPREPARED TRIBALLY
DIVIDED AND LARGELY UNGOVERNABLE
LAND MASS, FILLED WITH STUFF
THAT EVERYBODY IN THE WORLD
WANTED.
AND THINGS PRETTY MUCH WENT
DOWNHILL FROM THERE.
♪
>>> BUT THIS STORY BEGINS WITH
THE TRUCK STOP.
IN RWANDA.
STOCKING UP IN RWANDA.
MY EXPECTATIONS FOR FOOD IN THE
CONGO ARE MORE MEASURED.
IF YOU'RE LOOKING TO GET TO THE
EASTERN CONGO ACTION AND MANY
WOULD ASK WHY YOU WOULD EVEN
WANT TO DO THAT, THE BEST WAY IS
TO DRIVE ACROSS FROM NEIGHBORING
RWANDA.
THIS COUNTRY, OF COURSE, NOT TOO
LONG AGO, SUFFERED ITS OWN
APPALLING GENOCIDE.
BEHIND THE WHEEL, DAN.
HE'S BEEN LIVING IN THE DRC FOR
TWO YEARS, WORKING ON A
DOCUMENTARY ABOUT SOME OF THE
SEVERAL DOZEN REBEL GROUPS IN
THE COUNTRY.
RIDING SHOTGUN, DAN'S CLOSE
FRIEND AND ASSOCIATE HOREB, A
CONGOLESE.
THEY'RE TAKING ME ACROSS THE
BORDER.
ONE SIDE, RWANDA, HOTELS, PAVED
ROADS, INTERNET, AND PAPERWORK
TO BE FILLED OUT.
JUST A FEW FEET OF BARBED WIRE,
MACHINE GUNS AND CEMENT WALLS
AWAY -- THIS.
WELCOME TO GOMA.
A CITY OF 1 MILLION, THE
SIGNIFICANT NUMBER OF WHOM ARE
IDPs, INTERNALLY DISPLACED
PEOPLE -- SITTING, RATHER
INCONVENIENTLY, AT THE BASE OF
MT. NIRAGANGO.
CURRENT STREET LEVEL IS ABOUT 12
FEET OFF 20202, WHEN IT LAST
ERUPTED.
LAVA EVERYWHERE.
WHICH EXPLAINS THE LESS THAN
SMOOTH RIDE.
ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS YOU
NOTICE OUT THE CAR WINDOW, THE
U.N.
ABOUT FOUR MONTHS AGO, THE M-23,
ONE OF THE VARIOUS REBEL GROUPS
HOLED UP IN THE JUNGLE NEARBY,
INVADED THE CITY.
THE NGOs BATTENED DOWN THE
HATCHES.
THE U.N. STOOD BY, HANDS TIED.
EVERYONE ELSE HAD TO FEND FOR
THEMSELVES UNTIL THE REBELS
DREW.
THE CONGO WAS A PLACE I DREAMED
OF VISITING BEFORE I EVER
THOUGHT I WOULD GET THE CHANCE
TO TRAVEL THE WORLD.
THE ACTION BIG HERE, I'M NOT SO
SURE.
DAN, HOREB AND I HEAD FOR A
LOCAL RESTAURANT.
GOOD FOOD IS GOING TO BE A
CHALLENGE SOON, SO WE TAKE THE
OPPORTUNITY TO FILL UP ON WHAT
WE CAN.
GRILLED CHICKEN, GUGALI,
PIRRIPIRRI PEPPER, PRETTY NICE
MEAL.
>> GOMA IN THE '50s, TOURISTS
USED TO COME AS FAR AS RHO
DEESIA, UP HERE TO VACATION.
>> AMAZING LIFE.
I REMEMBER IN MY CHILDHOOD LIONS
ALONGSIDE THE ROAD.
GOMA WAS A CHOICE PLACE FOR SOME
TIME.
>> THEY'RE NOT COMING ANYMORE?
>> NO.
IT'S A RED ZONE.
>> IT'S LOOKING LIKE THERE WON'T
BE HOUSE TO HOUSE FIGHTING OR
ARTILLERY OR MORE TARS DROPPING
IN.
WAS TODAY A GOOD DAY?
>> WE HAVE A REBEL GROUP JUST
TEN KILOMETERS NORTH OF US, AND
MAYBE SEVERAL GROUPS THAT ARE
ALL CAUGHT IN THE BLENDER, YOU
KNOW.
>> THINGS CHANGE QUICKLY IN THE
CONGO.
>> CONFUSED YET?
VIRTUALLY ALL OF THE EASTERN
PART OF THE COUNTRY IS BEING
CONTESTED BY REBEL GROUPS --
SOME LOCAL AND OTHERS ALLEGEDLY
ACTING ON BEHALF OF INTERESTS
BASED IN NEIGHBORING COUNTRIES.
RECENTLY THE LARGELY TUTSI
RWANDAN BACKED M-23 HAS BEEN
BACKED, BUT THE MOSTLY HEWITTU
IS ALSO HERE.
THEY CAN ALSO REFER TO
SELF-DEFENSE GROUPS OR
SPECIFICALLY ENTITIES.
WHICH GROUPS LIE THE FRPI ARE
DEFENDING A STAKE LIKE GOLD, AND
THE OTHERS ARE MAINLY INTERESTED
IN FIGHTING WITH THE PARTICULAR
ENEMY, IN THEIR CASE THEY HAVE A
BEEF WITH THE FDLR.
LOTS OF OTHER ORGANIZATIONS
CONTROLLING TERRITORY WHO
HAVEN'T COME UP WITH A NAME OR
COOL ACK-ACK RHO NIM YET.
THIS IS ONLY A FRACTION THAT A
SINGLE AREA OF THE CONGO.
BE ADVISED THIS MAP WAS
HOPELESSLY OUTDATED BEFORE WE
EVEN GOT HERE.
>> IT'S ALL THESE VARIABLES KIND
OF KNOTTED INTO ONE BIG MESS.
THESE ARE THE REASONS WHY MEDIA
HAS A DIFFICULT TIME, WHY THE
WESTERN WORLD DOESN'T HEAR MUCH
ABOUT CONGO, BECAUSE HOW CAN YOU
SUM IT UP IN A THREE-MINUTE
REPORT?
>> ABOUT YOU FOR US GOMA IS JUST
A STOPOVER ON THE WAY TO THE
CONGO RIVER.
SO WE NEED TO KEEP MOVING.
AND ROADS, FORGET IT.
CERTAINLY NOTHING EVEN REMOTELY
SAFE BETWEEN GOMA AND WHERE WE
ARE HEADED.
>> WE'RE FLYING SO KISANGANI,
THIS IS THE PREFER ROUTE.
>> WE CHARTERED THE QUEEN'S
FORMER 2R568ING WARDROBE.
WHEN SHE TRAVELED IN HER YOUNGER
YEARS, WE'RE TOLD HER CLOTHES
TRAVELED IN THIS BEAST.
>> THIS IS A FIRST FOR ME.
>> YOU LEARN TO TAKE NOTHING FOR
GRANTED IN THE CONGO.
UH-OH.
JUST AS WE'RE ABOUT TO TAKE OFF
THUNDER, LIGHTNING.
>> IT LOOKS FINE TO ME.
>> LET'S GET THIS THING
AIRBORNE.
>> WOW, NICE.
>> HAS TO WAIT THIS ONE OUT A
LITTLE.
CRASHES ARE PRETTY COMMONPLACE.
NOT SO LONG AGO A PLANE WITH
NEARLY 100 PEOPLE ON BOARD WENT
DOWN ON THE SAME ROUTE WE'RE
TAKING TODAY.
>> MOST PLANES CRASH IN CONGO
CRASH BECAUSE OF THE WEATHER,
RIGHT?
>> YEAH, MOST OF THE TIME, YEAH.
>> NOT US.
DON'T WORRY.
>> IMPOSSIBLE.
>> THE WEATHER CLEARS UP, SORT
OF.
SO WE DECIDE TO GIVE IT A GO.
>> WHEN THE WEATHER IS VERY BAD,
STAY ON THE GROUND.
>> WHAT ABOUT REBELS?
ARE THEY SHOOTING AT THE PLANES?
>> NORMALLY, NO.
[ LAUGHTER ]
OKAY.
WE'LL SEE YOU AFTER YOUR TRIP.
>> YEAH, YEAH.
>> HAVE A GOOD ONE.
>> LIFTING OFF FROM GOMA, WE
HEAD OUT OVER THE SHORES OF LAKE
KIVU BEFORE CIRCLING BACK
NORTH-NORTHEAST.
OUR DESTINATION -- WHAT CONRAD
REFERRED TO IN "HEART OF
DARKNESS" AS THE INNER STATION.
HERE SURROUNDED BY DENSE JUNGLE
LIES OUR REN DAY VIEW WITH THE
CONGO RIVER, RESPONSE BOTH
BUILDING THIS COUNTRY AND
HELPING TO DESTROY IT.
>>> TWO HOURS OFF GOMA, WE LAND
AT KISANGANI.
IT WAS ONCE STANLEYVILLE, THE
SECOND LARGEST CITY IN THE
COUNTRY, BEFORE WAR CUT IT OFF.
STANLEYVILLE, KNOWN IN "HARD OF
DARKNESS" AS THE INNER STATION.
THE CONGO RIVER STRETCHES ACROSS
THE COUNTRY'S MIDDLE.
CONRAD DESCRIBES IT AS A
TWISTING SNAKE WITH ITS HEAD IN
THE ATLANTIC OCEAN AND ITS TAIL
BURIED DEEP IN AFRICA'S HEART.
TO EUROPEANS, IT WAS A NATURAL
ROUTE TO TRANSPORT SLAVES,
IVORY, RUBBER, MINERALS.
THE COMMODITIES UPON WHICH
MODERN-DAY BRUSSELS AND ANTWERP
ARE BUILT.
FOR THE CONGOLESE, BOTH BEFORE
AND AFTER THE BELGIANS, IT
PROVIDED MORE BASIC THINGS.
WATER TO WATCH, TO CLEAN YOUR
CLOTHES IN, TO COOK WITH, TO
DRINK.
ALSO FISHING.
SINCE LONG BEFORE THE
EXPEDITIONS OF DR. LIVINGSTON
AND HENRY MORTON STANLEY, THE
WAGENI TRIBE HAS BEEN FISHING
THE RIVER IN UNIQUE FASHION.
HIGHLY COORDINATED AND
ACROBATIC, THE WAGENI DIVED INTO
THE TREACHERY RAPIDS IN WHAT IS
STILL REFERRED TO AS
STANLEYVILLE FALLS.
PERCHED ON A PRECARIOUS NETWORK
OF WOODEN POLES, THEY HOIST
TOGETHER.
THE CATCH THESE DAYS -- NOT
MUCH.
>> SO IT IS THE SECOND BIGGEST
FORCE IN THE CONGO RIVER.
>> HE WAS A GUIDE BRINGING
TOURISTS TO HIS VILLAGE.
SINCE THE LAST TWO WARS,
KISANGANI TOURISM HAS BEEN
PRETTY MUCH NONEXISTENT.
CHIEF OF THE WAGENI, PIERRE MU
SALA, IS SAID TO BE A DIRECT
DESCENDANT OF THE KING WHO
GREETED STANLEY IN THE '70s.
>> THANK HIM FOR THE PRIVILEGE
OF SEEING HIS COMMUNITY.
[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> Translator: IT'S A PRESENT
FROM THE CHIEF.
THIS IS A WAY TO WELCOME THE
DELEGATION OF CNN.
>> THE WAGENI TRIBE MADE, WHAT
WAS IN RETROSPECT, THE MISTAKE
OF ALLOWING STANLEY TO PASS.
THE FAMOUS EXPLORER, OF COURSE,
PRETTY MUCH SHOT AND RAIDED HIS
WAY ALONG THE HISTORIC ROUTE TO
THE COAST, BEFORE EFFECTIVELY
JUMP-STARTING THE COLONIAL
PERIOD.
USING STANLEY AS ADMINISTRATOR
KING LEOPOLD OF BELGIUM CLAIMED
THE CONGO AS HIS PERSONAL
PROPERTY.
UNDER LEOPOLD'S REIGN, MEN WOMEN
AND CHILDREN WERE TAGGED WITH
NUMBERS, SEPARATED INTO GROUPS,
GIVEN PRODUCTION QUOTAS.
IF THEY FELL SHORT, THEY WERE
WHIPPED, THEIR HANDS CUT OFF,
HANGED.
AN ESTIMATED 10 MILLION
CONGOLESE WERE EITHER STARVED,
WORKED TO DEATH, EXECUTED OR
JUST KILLED WHERE THEY STOOD,
ALL IN JUST OVER 20 YEARS.
BY THE END, HALF THE POPULATION
OF THE COUNTRY WAS GONE.
HAVE YOU EVER THOUGHT ABOUT ALL
THOSE YEARS AGO THAT YOUR IF
YOUR PEOPLE HAD JUST KILLED
STANLEY?
>> Translator: SOMEBODY ELSE
WOULD HAVE COME.
>> ORDINARY A LARGE TIGER FISH
LIKE THIS ONE, IT'S GOING TO THE
MARKET, CONSIDERED WAY TOO
VALUABLE TO EAT.
BUT TODAY -- GUESTS.
>> IT'S A MEAN-LOOKING FISH.
>> SHE USED TO SELL FISH IN THE
MARKET.
>> THE CONGOLESE STANDARD,
LIBOKE.
PRETTY MUCH ANYTHING WRAPPED IN
A BANANA LEAF AND STEAMED.
>> TYPICAL TRADITION.
>> EXCELLENT MEAL.
>> A LOT OF WORK.
IT DOESN'T LOOK LIKE AN ENTIRELY
MISERABLE TIME OF IT.
THE WATER LOOSE GOOD.
ON A GOOD DAY, HOW MANY OF
THESE?
>> ON A GOOD DAY, 50.
50?
>> BAD -- -- THEY JUST -- ONE
BASKET LIKE THIS, THEY HAVE
ABOUT TEN BIG FISH, BUT THE
SITUATION CHANGES.
THE TOURISTS USED TO COME AND
SEE HOW THE FISHERMEN CATCH.
>> HUNDREDS USED TO COME, YES?
THINGS GET A LITTLE BETTER HERE,
MAYBE THEY COME BACK.
>> I HOPE SO.
>> I HOPE SO, TOO.
♪
>>> AFTER LEOPOLD, THE BELGIAN
GOVERNMENT TOOK OVER AND PRETTY
MUCH CONTINUED AS BEFORE.
AN APARTHEID-LIKE SYSTEM OF
WHAT'S MINE IS MINE AND WHAT'S
YOURS IS MINE.
BY THE '50s, A BEAUTIFUL MODERN
INFRASTRUCTURE BUILT --
RAILROADS, HOTELS, SPORTS CLUBS,
SCHOOLS.
THE ENVY OF AFRICA.
HUMPHREY BOGART AND KATHARINE
HEPBURN WERE HERE WHILE FILMING
"THE AFRICAN QUEEN." THEY
STAYED AT THE LUXURY HOTEL
POPPY POPPY, THIS
HOTEL. THIS IS THE POURQUOI PAS
HOTEL NOW.
NONE OF THIS WAS EVER FOR THE
CONGOLESE.
THEY WEREN'T ALLOWED IN ANY OF
THESE BUILDINGS, EXCEPT AS HELP.
NOT EVEN ALLOWED TO WALK THEIR
OWN STREETS AFTER DARK.
NOT A LOT OF DEPENDABLE ELECTRIC
POWER LEFT IN THE CITY, BUT WHAT
LIGHTS DO GLOW AROUND TOWN, MUCH
OF IT COMES FROM PLACES LIKE
THIS -- SMALL KIOSKS SERVING THE
CONGOLESE VERSION OF BARBECUE
AND WHAT PASSES FOR COLD BEER.
CHRISTIAN IS ONE OF OUR FIXERS,
TASKED WITH KEEPING US ON TRACK
AND OUT OF TROUBLE.
WHICH, BELIEVE ME, IS A BIG JOB
AROUND HERE.
YOU KNOW, IT'S AN
AMAZING-LOOKING CITY, IF YOU
BLUR YOUR VISION A BIT, YOU CAN
SEE IT THE WAY IT USED TO BE.
>> BEAUTIFUL.
I THINK IT COULD BE THE BEST
PLACE TO LIVE.
VERY KIND PEOPLE.
PEOPLE LIKE LISTENING TO MUSIC,
EATEN.
>> WHAT'S THE CONGOLESE WORD FOR
BARBECUE?
>> BARBECUE.
>> CHEERS.
>> CHEERS.
>> I LIKE ANY MEAT ON A GRILL.
IT'S LOOKING GOOD.
GRILLED GOAT, WITH A TRADITIONAL
STEW ON THE SIDE.
>> NOW WE'RE TALKING.
>> ROASTED, PUT SOME SAUCE IN
THERE.
>> THAT'S DELICIOUS.
>> AS YOU CAN SEE, PEOPLE DON'T
EAT MEAT.
MEAT IS QUITE EXPENSIVE, ALMOST
$2.
>> WHICH IS A LOT.
MORE THAN MOUSSE PEOPLE MAKE IN
A DAY OR EVEN TWO DAYS.
WHAT ARE THE FIRST THINGS YOU
BUY IF YOU'RE VERY, VERY POOR.
>> VERY POOR, SOAP.
>> SOAP.
>> BECAUSE AT LEAST YOU HAVE TO
LOOK A BIT CLEAN.
>> SOAP FIRST.
>> SOAP.
BUT IN BETWEEN, AS CONGOLESE,
YOU HAVE TO THINK OF DRESSING,
LOOKING SMART, CLOTHES.
>> ALL THE CONGOLESE WILL TELL
YOU, IF YOU GIVE THEM $10, THEY
WILL THING OF SOAP OR FOOD,
MAYBE $1 TO BUY A SHIRT.
>> THAT'S CALLED PRIDE.
>> YEAH.
AND THERE'S HOPE.
>> YOU CAN PLAN FOR TOMORROW.
>> FOR TOMORROW.
♪
>>> IN "HEART OF DARKNESS"
CONRAD WRITES ABOUT ABOUT THE
GREED OF THE BELGIAN COLINIZERS.
24th GRABBED WHAT THEY COULD GET
FOR THE SAKE OF WHAT COULD BE
GOT.
IT WAS JUST ROBBERY WITH
VIOLENCE, AGGRAVATED *** ON A
GREAT SCALE.
AND AFTER 75 YEARS, THE
CONGOLESE HAD HAD ENOUGH.
BUT INDEPENDENCE CAME QUICKLY.
WHEN THE NEW COUNTRY MANAGED TO
INAUGURATE THEIR FIRST
DEMOCRATICALLY ELECTED LEADER,
THE CIA AND THE BRITISH WORKING
THROUGH THE BELLIANS, HAD HIM
KILLED.
WE HELPED TO INSTALL THIS
MISERABLE *** IN HIS
PLACE -- JOSEPH MOBUTU, HE
BECAME PRETTY MUCH THE TEMPLATE
FROM -- BY THE TIME HEF WAS
DONE, THE CONGO WAS MIRED IN A
SERIES OF CIVIL WARS, THE
GOVERNMENT WAS NO LONGER PAYING
ITS BILLS, AND THE TRAINS
BASICALLY STOPPED RUNNING.
THIS IS KISANGANI STATION.
THERE'S ONE SHORT RUN LEFT.
SERVICE ONCE A WEEK, WHEN
OPERATIONAL, WHICH ISN'T OFTEN,
I'M GUESSING.
ABANDONED BY THE BELLIANS, THE
STATION, THE ENGINES, THE
ANCIENT PASSENGER CARS, AND THE
TRACKS THEMSELVES HAVE SLOWLY
RECEDED INTO THE JUNGLE.
AND YET ALL THESE YEARS LATER,
WITH HARDLY ANY RESOURCES, ALUB
EMILE, THE ADMINISTRATOR AND
STAFF OF CLERKS, CONDUCTORS,
MECHANICS AND ENGINEERS, SHOW UP
AT WORK AND DO WHAT THEY CAN IN
AN ATTEMPT TO KEEP THINGS IN
WORKING ORDER.
HOW DO YOU DO?
>> HE SAYS YOU'RE WELCOME TO SEE
THIS PLACE.
>> HOW MANY EMPLOYEES STILL WORK
HERE?
[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> SO AT ONE TIME YOU COULD
DISPATCH A FREIGHT TO SOUTH
AFRICA?
[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
SO A HYPOTHETICAL QUESTION -- IF
THE GOVERNMENT SAID, OKAY, WE
ARE READY.
WE HAVE THE MONEY, WE WOULD LIKE
TO AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE GET
OPERATIONAL, DOES HE HAVE THE
WORKERS READY TO GO?
[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> AND THIS IS ONE OF THE FEW
THINGS HERE THAT'S WORKING
TODAY.
A FEATURE OF GREAT PRIDE TO THE
STAFF.
THE RAILWAY EMPLOYEES, I'M TOLD,
DO NOT GET PAID, YET THEY
CONTINUE TO SHOW UP AND WORK.
♪
>> IT IS SAID OF THE BUILDING OF
THE COUNTRY'S ONCE VAST RAIL
NETWORK, ONE CONGOLESE DIED FOR
EVERY SINGLE TIE.
LIKE MANY CONGOLESE WE MEET,
THEY ARE, ALL THESE YEARS LATER
AND IN SPITE OF EVERYTHING
THAT'S HAPPENED, READY AND
WAITING FOR THE SITUATION TO
IMPROVE.
>>> YOU LOST YOUR WAY ON THAT
RIVER, AS YOU WOULD IN A DESERT,
UNTIL YOU THOUGHT YOURSELF
BEWITCHED AND CUT OFF FOREVER
FROM EVERYTHING YOU HAD KNOWN
ONCE.
SO CONRAD DESCRIBED THE CONGO
AFTER PILOTING STEAMSHIPS IN THE
EARLY DAYS OF BELGIAN
COLONIALISM.
I'VE SOMEWHAT OF AN OBSESSION.
IT'S BEEN KIND OF A PERSONAL
DREAM, IF YOU WILL, TO TRAVEL A
CONGO RIVER.
NOW, FOR BETTER OR WORSE, I GET
THAT CHANCE.
WIFE RENTED A TRUSTY VESSEL, AND
I SHALL DUB THEY "THE CAPTAIN
WILLARD."
ALL RIGHT.
DID YOU MAG GOTS LOAD THE
CHICKENS?
>> FINDING FOOD ALONG THE WAY,
IT'S ANTICIPATED, WILL BE A
CHALLENGE.
REFRIGERATION OF ANY KIND IS
IMPOSSIBLE.
>> OKAY.
WELL, I'M PSYCHED.
MY DREAM HAS FINALLY COME TRUE.
BLOCKED BY OFFICIALS?
THIS COULD BE MONTHS.
OKAY.
LET THE PROBING BEGIN.
[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> NOW, HOW DO WE DO THIS?
>> LET'S GET UNDER WAY UNTIL
THEY FIGURE A NEW TAX TO LEVY ON
US.
OUR TRIP DOWNRIVER THERE TAKE US
SOME 120 KILOMETERS, EVEN DEEPER
INTO THE JUNGLE, INSTEAD OF
KURTZ AND THE CRUMB LING HOARD,
WITH A SHADOWY PAST, AWAITS US
AT OUR DESTINATION.
IT'S THE TURN OF THE CENTURY
MAP, SO KISANGANI WAS THEN
CALLED STANLEYVILLE,
LEOPOLDVILLE WOULD BE HERE.
>> 3,000 KILOMETERS OR SOMETHING
LIKE THAT.
>> A LONG WAY TO GO, AND WE'RE
TAKING A FULL RIDE.
>> THAT'S WHAT WE'RE DOING,
RIGHT?
>> ALL THE WAY TO THE ATLANTIC?
>> YOU DIDN'T TELL THEM YET?
>> I DON'T THINK WE HAVE ENOUGH
SPAM, GENTLEMEN.
A HALF DAY'S JOURNEY DOWNRIVER
THERE'S A LOCAL DIGNITARY WE
HAVE PROMISED TO VISIT.
>> THERE'S THE CHIEF WHO IS
COMING DOWN.
>> WE ARRIVE, LATE.
BUT THE KING IS STILL WAITING
FOR US.
TRADITIONALLY HEADGEAR, NOT SO
TRADITIONAL SUIT.
THE MEDALS GIVEN BY THE BELGIANS
PROVEN HIS ROYAL LINEAGE.
>> THIS PLACE BELONGS TO THE
MOMBULI ETHNIC GROUP.
>> HE'S THE KING?
[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> MY FATHER RULED FROM THE AGE
OF 8, AND I CAME TO HIM AT 1963.
>> THAT'S GREAT HISTORY.
INCREDIBLE.
WE GAVE HIM A GOAT FOR BEING SO
LATE, I'M SORRY WE CAN'T STAY
LONGER AND HE GIVES ME A SIMPLE,
HEFTY-LOOKING BRACELET ONLY
LATER DO I COME TO APPRECIATE IT
FOR WHAT IT IS.
>> HOREB TELLS ME IT GOES BACK
TO ARAB PORTUGUESE TIMES, THEY
TAUGHT THEM HOW TO DO IT.
THEY WEAR THEM ON THE WRISTS AND
ANKLES.
IT'S OLDER THAN OUR STORY,
PROBABLY.
THE CHIEF SAID HIS FATHER GAVE
IT TO HIM IN 1935.
SO WHO KNOWS, MAN?
WOW.
SO WHERE DID YOU GET THE
BRACELET?
OH, AN AFRICAN KING GAVE IT TO
ME, THE CONGO RIVER.
WHERE DID YOU GET YOURS?
WE'VE COME A LONG WAY DOWNRIVER,
WITH MANY KILOMETERS STILL TO
GO.
ATTENTION HAS TURNED TOWARD THE
EVENING MEAL.
SILL FIGURE I'LL MAKE COQ AU
VIN.
GETTING CLOSE TO KILLING TIME.
THE MOMENT OF TRUTH.
IT'S QUICKLY GETTING DARK.
I'M VERY AWARE OF A NUMBER OF
THINGS.
HOW DO THEY USUALLY KILL
CHICKENS?
>> SMALL KNIFE.
>> OUR CHICKENS ARE THIN,
CRAGLY, TOUGH.
HE'S BITING ME.
I'M PROBABLY GOING TO HAVE TO
STEW THE CRAP OUT OF THEM.
STILL WET TO KILL THESE THINGS.
YOU WANT TO EAT, YOU HAVE TO
KILL YOUR OWN CHICKEN AND PLUCK
IT, TOO.
BUT EVERY MAN HAS A BREAKING
POINT.
IN RETROSPECT, PERHAPS THIS WAS
OURS.
>> HARDER, HARDER.
ALMOST THROUGH, MAN.
>> NO, I'M NOT.
>> CLEAN KILL.
>> NOW YOU CAN JOIN OUR
TREEHOUSE.
BY THE TIME OUR BIRDS ARE
CLEANED AND PLUCKED, THE SUN IS
DOWN AND DINNER IS STILL A LONG
WAY OFF.
♪ CLEAN OUT THE CHICKENS ♪
♪ IT'S TIME TO --
>>> SOMEWHERE DOWN THE CONGO
RIVER, I'M CONTINUING TO DEAL
WITH A FEW PRESSING CONCERNS.
THE ONE KNIFE ON BOARD IS AS
SHARP, REALLY, AS A SOUPSPOON.
SOON I'M FRANTICALLY TRYING TO
RIP OUT THE BACKBONE AND GUTS,
WITH ONE HAND.
THE DAMN GENERATOR KEEPS KICKING
OFF.
I REALLY NEED LIGHT SO I CAN SEE
WHAT I'M CUTTING.
I CAN'T CUT WHAT I CAN'T SEE.
>> THERE'S ONLY 240 WATTS.
NO WAY IT'S THE DRAW.
>> THEY'RE NOT GOING TO EAT AT
ALL.
I'M NEVER GOING TO GET THROUGH
WITH THIS.
>> MACHETE?
>> NO, MAYBE WE SHOULD FIGURE
OUT HOW TO COULD BE DINNER,
BECAUSE WE REALLY WON'T EAT ANY
DINNER HERE.
I'VE HAD A PEANUT BUTTER AND
JELLY SANDWICH, AND I WOULD LIKE
TO EAT, ESPECIALLY AFTER GETTING
THROUGH ALL THIS MISERY WITH THE
CHICKEN.
ALL RIGHT.
THIS MACHETE -- IT WOULD BE
APROPOS TO POINT OUT WE DO NOT
WANT TO BE MOVING AT NIGHT.
WE WOULD NOT LIKE TO RUN AGROUND
IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FREAKING
CONGO.
>> SWIMMING NOW.
>> IS HE WORRIED ABOUT CROCS?
THE CURRENT'S UNPREDICTABLE.
VISIBILITY NIL.
TIME TO TIE UP FOR THE NIGHT.
GENERATOR ISSUES MORE OR LESS
FIXED, BUT NOW ANOTHER JUST AS
SERIOUS PROBLEM PRESENTS ITSELF.
WITH THE LIGHTS BURNING, IT
BECOMES INSANELY BUGGY.
CRUSH ONE OF THESE MOTHS, AND
YOU WILL BLOW UP LIKE A BALLOON.
SER SERIOUSLY.
POUR ALL THREE BOTTLES OF WINE
INTO THE ONIONS.
ALL RIGHT.
LET'S PUT THE TOP ON, BRING IT
UP TO A BOIL.
THREE HOURS LATER, IT LOOKS LIKE
THE JUNGLE-STYLE STEW MIGHT
ACTUALLY WORK OUT AFTER ALL.
OKAY.
SO WHO WANTS TO BRING THIS OVER,
CAREFULLY, TO THE TABLE?
ALL RIGHT.
LET'S EAT.
>> BON APETIT.
>> BON APETIT.
>> IN THE END, MY COQ AWE VIN
WAS SCRAPPY, BUT TOLERABLE.
I THINK I NOW UNDERSTAND WHAT
THAT MEANS.
NEXT MORNING ON THE RIVER, AND
OF COURSE WE'RE NOT ALONE.
FISHERMEN FROM ALL THE
SURROUNDING VILLAGES HAVE HEARD
OF US, AND HAVE, LONG BEFORE
WE'RE EVEN AWAKE, HAVE COME BY
TO CHECK US OUT.
CAN YOU FIND A COUPLE ONIONS?
DON'T GO CRAZY.
IF WE DON'T HAVE THEM, WE DON'T
HAVE THEM.
>> I WILL NOT GO CRAZY.
>> ALL RIGHT.
I ABOUT GET ON THE SPAM AND EGG
PATROL.
THEY MAY HAVE HAD INVENTED THE
STEALTH BOMBER, MAYBE THIS WILL
BE OUR CROWNING ACCOMPLISHMENT
AS
>> ONCE WE TIMELY GET THERE,
WE'RE SUPPOSED TO GET ALL THE
WAY BACK.
>> COMING BACK WAS NEVER PART OF
THE PLAN, MAN.
WE'RE NOT COMING BACK.
>> THEY WILL FIND US TEN YEARS
LATER NAKED IN THE BUSH WITH
LIKE A NECKLACE OF SPAM CANS.
THAT WAS GLORIOUS.
♪
>> TIME TO GET BACK OUT ON THE
RIVER.
WE HAVE PLACES TO GO.
TWO DAYS DOWN THE CONGO.
WE'RE FINALLY NEARING OUR
DESTINATION.
>> IT'S AN ABANDONED BELGIAN
RESEARCH STATION.
IT'S STILL FUNCTIONING IN SOME
CAPACITY, BUT IT GOES ABOUT 30
KILOMETERS IN, OVER 250
BUILDINGS.
THEY ARE DOING IT ALL HERE.
>> MUCH MYTH AND LEGEND
SURROUNDS THIS PLACE.
OH, THERE WE GO.
>> YEAH.
>> IT HAS BEEN INFERRED BY SOME
THAT THE BELGIANS CONDUCTED
URANIUM ENRICHMENT AND A HOST OF
BIZARRE EXPERIMENTS HERE.
HOWEVER, THE FACTS WOULD SUGGEST
THE SCARIEST THING TO EVER
HAPPEN HERE, SOME GENETICALLY
MODIFIED BANANA VARIETIES.
>> WE'RE IN GAMBI.
>>> DEEP IN THE JUNGLE AND MILES
FROM ANYWHERE, THIS WAS ONCE THE
INSTITUTE FOR AGRICULTURAL
STUDIES OF CONGO.
CONSTRUCTION BEGAN IN THE 1930s.
THE COMPLEX WAS ONCE STAFFED BY
HUNDREDS OF BELGIAN RESEARCHERS,
DOCTORS AND ENGINEERS UNTIL THEY
LEFT HURRIEDLY IN 1960.
WITH INDEPENDENCE BEGAN A RAPID
DECLINE.
THE EVENTUAL CESSATION OF
FUNDING.
OF THE HUNDREDS OF STRUCTURES
BUILT HERE, WHAT USED TO BE
HOUSING, LABORATORIES, HOSPITALS
AND RESEARCH FACILITIES, THE
VAST COMPLEX'S LIBRARY IS
CLEARLY THE MOST IMPORTANT TO
THOSE WHO REMAIN.
THOUGH CRUMBLING LIKE EVERYTHING
ELSE, THE GRASS IS CUT AND
GROUNDS MAINTAINED.
IT SWEPT AND KEPT CLEAN, AND YET
MOST INCREDIBLY THIS MAN STILL
FIGHTS A DAILY BATTLE TO STAVE
OFF FURTHER DECAY TO THE
THOUSANDS OF VOLUMES OF BOOKS
AND RESEARCH MATERIALS CONTAINED
ON THESE SHELVES.
SO WHAT HAPPENED HERE?
DID THE PLACE STAY OPEN?
DID PEOPLE CONTINUE TO DO
RESEARCH?
>> THERE'S SOME NEW STUFF, BUT
FOR THOSE WHO HAVE BEEN THERE
FOR LONG, THEY GET AN ALLOWANCE
FROM THE GOVERNMENT.
>> INDEPENDENCE COMES.
WHAT HAPPENS HERE?
.
>> SO UNLESS I'M MISTAKEN, THE
GENTLEMAN JUST SAID CUTTING-EDGE
RESEARCH MOVED TO BURUNDI AND
ELSEWHERE.
THE CONGOLESE WHO REMAIN, THEIR
MISSION ALL THESE YEARS LATER IS
PRESERVE THE PATRIMONY THAT
EXISTED.
ALL THIS WAS STATE OF THE ART
BACK IN THE '50s WHEN THE
LIBRARY WAS BUILT.
BUT FOR 20 YEARS THERE HASN'T
BEEN ELECTRICITY TO RUN THE
DEHUMID FIRES TO KEEP OUT THE
DAMP.
THROUGH SO MANY WARS, THROUGH
ALL OF THESE DIFFICULTIES, HE
HAS MAINTAINED THIS FACILITY TO
AN EXTRAORDINARY DEGREE.
WHY?
[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> Reporter: STAFF STILL SHOW UP
TO WORK AND ORGANIZE.
CATALOG AND WRITE REQUESTS FOR
FUNDING.
PERHAPS TO KINSHASA OR A CENTRAL
OFFICE WHERE SOMEONE MAY OR MAY
NOT EVER RESPOND.
>> HE WAS HERE PRE-INDEPENDENCE,
YES?
DOES HE REMEMBER THE BELGIAN
RULE?
[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> HE REMEMBERS THE PERIOD, AND
THAT WAS THE BEST TIME THEY WERE
LIVING.
>> WHAT DO YOU SAY TO SOMEONE
WHO SUGGESTS THAT BALL JAN
COLONIALISM MIGHT HAVE BEEN THE
GOOD TIMES?
THE ROAD HOME.
SUCH AS IT IS.
ROTTING BRIDGES, MAKESHIFT
FERRIES, IT'S AN ADVENTURE.
FORTUNATELY OURS WAS A GOOD
ADVENTURE.
THE CONGO IS A PLACE THAT'S
ALWAYS FASCINATED ME.
THIS IS A TRIP I'VE BEEN WANTING
TO TAKE SINCE I'VE BEEN WRITING
STORIES OR MAKING TELEVISION,
BUT WHAT I FOUND WAS SOMETHING
UNEXPECTED.
I MET A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO FOR A
LONG TIME HAVE BEEN WAITING.
HOPING FOR THINGS TO GET BETTER.
A LOT MORE HOPE HERE THAN
THERE'S ANY RIGHT TO EXPECT.
WHEN ALL IS SAID AND DONE, I
WANTED TO GO TO THE CONGO AND I
DID.