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(Andrew) IT'S A TALE OF TWO CITIES,
OLD-WORLD IMMIGRANTS
MERGING WITH NEW-WAVE TRENDSETTERS...
(Andrew) OH, MY GOSH!
ALL DEFINING MIAMI AS A BURGEONING METROPOLIS
WITH A FLAVOR ALL ITS OWN.
WHOA. THAT TASTED LIKE CRUSHED GRAVEL
THAT JUST EVAPORATED OVER THE BACK OF MY TONGUE.
(laughs)
IT ALWAYS FEELS TO ME
LIKE IT'S THE UNOFFICIAL CAPITAL OF LATIN AMERICA,
LIKE TRAVELING ABROAD WITHOUT EVER LEAVING THE UNITED STATES.
IF YOU SQUINT, YOU MIGHT AS WELL BE IN GRANADA.
I LOVE MIAMI,
AND I'VE WATCHED IT GROW UP BEFORE MY EYES
TO BECOME A SOPHISTICATED SEDUCTRESS
AND A SUPERBLY MATURE FOOD TOWN.
I WANT TO BE ALONE WITH YOUR TWO DISHES. MMM.
I'M EXPLORING THE ICONIC TREASURES...
EDIBLE GOLD.
AND THE HIDDEN DELIGHTS...
ROTTING SALTED FISH, AND IT'S FANTASTIC.
OF THIS COASTAL PARADISE
KNOWN AS THE MAGIC CITY.
I'M ANDREW ZIMMERN,
AND THIS IS "BIZARRE FOODS AMERICA."
I NEVER WANT TO LEAVE.
♪♪
Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
MIAMI'S POPULATION HAS SEEN
A RADICAL SHIFT IN RECENT YEARS.
THE CULTURAL DEMOGRAPHICS
SEEMED TO CHANGE OVERNIGHT, LIKE MAGIC.
TODAY 70% OF MIAMI'S RESIDENTS ARE LATIN AMERICAN,
NEARLY HALF OF THEM FROM CUBA.
THE CITY OF HIALEAH, JUST NORTH OF DOWNTOWN MIAMI,
IS WHERE THE MOST RECENT WAVE OF CUBAN AMERICANS
HAVE PLANTED THEMSELVES.
IT'S A NEW GENERATION STILL HANGING ON
TO A FEW OF THE OLD TRADITIONS.
ROBERTO GUERRA IS A CUBAN AMERICAN BUSINESS OWNER
I MET IN MIAMI A FEW YEARS BACK.
HE'S INVITED ME TO HIS COMPANY PIG ROAST LATER TODAY.
BUT FIRST WE'RE PICKING OUT THE PIG...
(squealing)
A LIVE PIG.
WE'RE AT MATADERO CABRERA,
THE ONLY LICENSED SLAUGHTERHOUSE IN SOUTH FLORIDA
WHERE YOU CAN HAND-SELECT YOUR MEAL
AFTER A SHORT INTERVIEWING PROCESS.
THIS IS OBVIOUSLY SOMETHING THAT'S VERY TRADITIONAL,
AND ESPECIALLY IN THE CUBAN CULTURE, RIGHT?
OH, YES.
UH, WE CUBANS
CAN BE ON THE MOON, AND WE'LL BE ROASTING A PIG.
YEAH.
THIS IS KIND OF LIKE THE PICK-YOUR-OWN-AUTO-PARTS
VERSION OF PORCINE HEAVEN.
I MEAN, YOU--YOU--YOU COME IN. YOU PICK YOUR PIG.
FIVE MINUTES LATER YOU LEAVE WITH PIG.
YES, SIR.
YEAH.
IT'S VERY QUICK.
YOU PAY BY THE POUND FOR THE LIVE ANIMAL.
ROBERTO'S LOOKING FOR A 60-POUNDER.
BY THE TIME THEY GUT IT...
RIGHT.
IT'S ABOUT 40, 45. TO ME, THAT'S THE BEST SIZE.
(pig snorts)
65 POUNDS.
OUR PIG IS SENT TO MEET HIS MAKER,
WHERE IT'S ALSO GUTTED AND SCRUBBED WELL
TO REMOVE ALL THE COARSE HAIR.
YOU'RE PROBABLY LIKE ME.
NO MATTER WHAT, YOU FEEL A LITTLE GUILTY, A LITTLE BIT.
YES, YOU DO FEEL GUILTY.
JUST A LITTLE BIT.
BUT THEY SURE TASTE GOOD.
AND ONLY MOMENTS LATER...
LET'S GO.
UNBELIEVABLE.
IT'S HARD TO REMEMBER WE'RE ONLY A STONE'S THROW AWAY
FROM MIAMI'S CITY CENTER.
ROBERTO'S WAREHOUSE IS IN NEARBY MEDLEY,
WHERE HE MANUFACTURES LA CAJA CHINA,
A METAL-LINED INVERSION COOKING BOX.
THE NAME TRANSLATES AS "CHINESE BOX"...
RIGHT.
BUT YET IT COMES FROM CUBA.
THE RAILROAD IN CUBA WAS BUILT BY CHINESE LABORERS.
YEAH.
BY THE LATE 1800s,
THERE WERE MORE THAN 40,000 CHINESE IN CUBA.
ROBERTO'S FATHER REMEMBERED SEEING AN UNUSUAL COOKING BOX
IN HAVANA'S CHINATOWN.
WE DID A PROTOTYPE.
YEAH.
SO IN 1987 WE CAME OUT, AND WE STARTED SELLING IT.
YEAH.
THE SYSTEM WAS NOT POPULAR IN CUBA.
RIGHT.
WE MADE IT POPULAR HERE WITH THE CUBAN COMMUNITY...
THAT'S RIGHT.
IN THE UNITED STATES.
THAT'S RIGHT.
ROBERTO RUNS THE COMPANY WITH HIS SONS,
AVIAN AND ARIEL,
AND OF COURSE HIS FATHER, ROBERTO SR.
YOU GUYS HAVE CREATED THESE GORGEOUS,
EASILY PORTABLE, STUNNING LITTLE MACHINES.
RIGHT.
WE PREP WITH LA CAJA CHINA'S SPECIAL MARINADE...
A BASIC MOJO--IT'S GARLIC, SOUR ORANGE, OREGANO, CUMIN.
YEAH. YEAH.
WE'LL GO CRAZY ON THAT.
AND A RUBDOWN OF ADOBO SEASONING
WITH OREGANO, CUMIN, SALT, AND BAY LEAVES.
IT'S SOMETIMES REFERRED TO AS A MAGIC BOX.
THE MEAT GOES INSIDE,
AND THE COALS CONVECT THE HEAT DOWN FROM THE TOP,
LIKE A BROILER.
WHAT I LIKE THE MOST
IS THAT THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR THIS
IS SIX PICTURES.
(laughs)
IN FOUR HOURS' TIME WE HAVE A PERFECTLY COOKED PIG.
(Andrew) OH, MY GOODNESS.
LOOK AT THAT SKIN.
I KNOW. IT'S--
FOR CUBANS, IF WE DON'T HAVE A CRISPY SKIN,
IT'S LIKE...
I'M JEWISH,
AND IF WE DON'T HAVE CRISPY PIG SKIN...
(laughs)
IT'S NOT WORTH IT.
IT'S PURE PORCINE PLEASURE,
TIP TO TAIL...
MMM. THIS IS SNOW WHITE,
AND EVERYTHING ELSE IS THE SEVEN LITTLE DWARVES.
EVEN THE TONGUE.
LA LENGUA?
Sí. POQUITO.
VERY, VERY SMALL,
AND VERY GOOD.
AVIAN AND I AGREE, THE BEST PART IS A NO-BRAINER.
(Andrew) LOOK AT THAT. IT'S BEAUTIFUL. THERE'S ONE LOBE.
CHEERS.
CHEERS.
LOOK AT ALL THESE PEOPLE BEHIND ME.
AND THEY PROBABLY ALL WANT THIS.
NO, COMPLETELY NOT TRUE. JUST LIED.
NONE OF THEM WANT IT.
THAT'S WHY WE'RE HERE LIKE BUZZARDS OVER THE CARCASS.
WE'RE THE ONLY ONES THAT KNOW THE GOOD PART OF THE PIG.
OH.
THAT TASTED LIKE CRUSHED GRAVEL
THAT JUST EVAPORATED OVER THE BACK OF MY TONGUE.
(laughs)
IT'S A CLASSIC MIAMI TALE OF OLD TRADITIONS
MEETING NEW INNOVATIONS
AND ONE FAMILY LIVING THE AMERICAN DREAM.
YOU'RE NOT GONNA SAY IT, WHICH IS WHY I KEEP SAYING IT--
THE PIG DIDN'T COOK ITSELF. THE BOX DID.
IT'S GENIUS. PLEASE, TELL YOUR FATHER
HOW GRATEFUL I AM
THAT SO MANY YEARS AGO HE SAW THIS
AND TOLD YOU ABOUT IT.
(speaking Spanish)
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
JUST SOUTH OF HERE IS LITTLE HAVANA,
THE ORIGINAL HEADQUARTERS FOR AN OLDER GENERATION
OF CUBAN AMERICAN SETTLERS.
FROM THE OLD-TIMERS PLAYING DOMINOS
TO THE CIGAR SMOKE WAFTING THROUGH THE STREETS,
EVERYTHING ON CALLE OCHO HAS SPELLED HOME AWAY FROM HOME
FOR CUBANS IMMIGRATING TO MIAMI
SINCE CASTRO'S COMMUNIST REGIME
MUSCLED THEIR WAY TO POWER IN 1959.
YOU FEEL LIKE YOU'RE IN A DIFFERENT WORLD,
A DIFFERENT COUNTRY.
YEAH.
PEOPLE ALWAYS SAY ABOUT MIAMI, YOU KNOW,
WE'RE NOT NECESSARILY ATTACHED TO THE REST OF THE COUNTRY...
RIGHT.
BECAUSE YOU COME HERE, AND IT'S A DIFFERENT LANGUAGE, LITERALLY.
MY FRIEND MICHELLE BERNSTEIN IS A CULINARY TOUR DE FORCE,
THE CHEF/OWNER
OF TWO CRITICALLY ACCLAIMED RESTAURANTS HERE IN MIAMI,
MICHY'S AND SRA. MARTINEZ.
RAISED NEAR LITTLE HAVANA,
SHE'S A SELF-DESCRIBED ARGENTINEAN JEW.
TO ME, SHE'S 100% MIAMI.
AN "AR-JEW-TINIAN."
"JEW-TINIAN." JUST MAKE IT EASIER.
THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR SNACK SPOTS
IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD, PALACIO DE LOS JUGOS.
WHICH BASICALLY MEANS "THE JUICE PALACE."
RIGHT.
IT'S BEEN AROUND SINCE I WAS A KID.
THEY'RE FAMOUS FOR THE TROPICAL FRUIT JUICES
MUCH LIKE THE ONES FOUND IN CUBA.
IT'S THE KIND OF THING THAT REMINDS TRANSPLANTS OF HOME.
THERE ARE SOME TIMES THAT YOU HAVE TO STAND IN A LINE...
YEAH.
THAT'S AT LEAST 40 PEOPLE DEEP JUST TO GET JUICE.
THIS IS MY FAVORITE AREA.
TIMBA IS A LOCALLY MADE CHEESE
SANDWICHING A WEDGE OF GUAVA PASTE.
THIS IS LIKE A CROSS
BETWEEN MOZZARELLA AND RICOTTA SALATA.
IT'S GOT JUST--
LIKE BULGARIAN FETA, ALMOST.
IT'S GOT JUST ENOUGH SPRINGINESS TO IT.
YEAH.
AND OH, MY GOD, THE GUAYABA IS FANTASTIC.
AND THE PIèCE DE RéSISTANCE IS THE CHICHARRONES,
A TYPICAL DISH YOU SEE ALL OVER THE LATIN WORLD,
BUT THIS IS HANDS DOWN THE BEST I'VE EVER HAD.
THEY DO IT RIGHT.
IT HAS THE MEAT ON IT.
BRIGHT PIECES OF THE SKIN WITH THE MEAT ON IT.
LOOK AT HOW MUCH CRISPY SKIN
IS JUST ENROBING
BIG, BEAUTIFUL PIECES OF PORK BELLY
AND FAT.
AND THEY MAKE IT ALL DAY LONG.
YOU'LL NEVER FIND AN OLD OR STALE PIECE,
BECAUSE IT'S CONSTANT.
THEY SELL ABOUT 1,200 POUNDS OF IT A DAY.
CUSTOMERS ALSO QUEUE UP FOR COMFORT FOOD STAPLES
LIKE PLANTAINS SERVED UP IN A CLASSIC STYLE
AND THE YUCCA, TOPPED WITH A WHISPER
OF GARLIC SAUCE AND CHICHARRONES.
YUCCA CAN GET SO TOUGH.
YEAH.
AND THIS IS LIKE BUTTER-- WITHOUT THE BUTTER.
'CAUSE LET'S FACE IT,
THERE'S NO BUTTER IN THIS CUISINE.
(Andrew) ABSOLUTELY INSANE.
AND HOLD ON. YOU'RE IN THE JUICE PALACE,
SO TRY THE JUICE. MMM. SO THIS IS PAPAYA.
WOW.
AND IT'S NOT SWEET.
IT'S GOOD WE'RE EATING PAPAYA WITH THIS,
BECAUSE IT'S VERY NICE FOR THE DIGESTION.
WE'RE GONNA NEED IT.
PALACIO DE LOS JUGOS IS A LONG-STANDING TRADITION
IN LITTLE HAVANA.
IN SOUTH BEACH THERE'S ANOTHER ICONIC EATERY
THAT'S BEEN ATTRACTING REPEAT CUSTOMERS FOR GENERATIONS.
THIS IS CRAB NIRVANA.
THEIR CONCEPT SEEMS SIMPLE,
BUT THESE ARE NO ORDINARY CRABS.
AAH! THAT HURT LIKE A MOTHER!
AND LATER, I'M OUT TO DISCOVER JUST HOW FAR
SOME MIAMIANS ARE WILLING TO GO
TO INDULGE THEIR DECADENCE.
IF THE TRUCK IS A-ROCKIN', DON'T COME A-KNOCKIN'.
♪♪
IN A TOWN WITH TRENDY NEW RESTAURANTS
POPPING UP ON EVERY CORNER,
JOE'S STONE CRAB IS A TIMELESS ICONIC PHENOMENON,
STANDING AS IT HAS FOR NEARLY A CENTURY
ON THE HOTTEST PIECE OF REAL ESTATE IN MIAMI--
SOUTH BEACH.
JOE'S IS STILL A REQUISITE HOT SPOT
FOR LOCALS AND OUT-OF-TOWNERS ALIKE.
THANK YOU.
BEST LINEUP IN MIAMI.
THIS OLD-SCHOOL INSTITUTION
INFUSES THE POPULAR BEACH NEIGHBORHOOD
WITH A DOSE OF MIAMI HISTORY.
IT STARTED AS A SMALL LUNCH COUNTER IN 1913,
WHEN STONE CRABS WERE STILL CONSIDERED GARBAGE FISH.
ONCE JOE FOUND A WAY TO MAKE THEM EDIBLE,
A BOOMING BUSINESS WAS BEGUN.
JOE'S SELLS 400,000 POUNDS OF CRAB CLAWS EACH YEAR.
THIS IS CRAB NIRVANA.
THIS BELOVED SOUTH FLORIDA SHELLFISH
IS STAGGERINGLY UNIQUE IN MANY WAYS.
MMM. THE FRESHEST, MOST DELICIOUS,
MOST SUCCULENT STONE CRABS IN THE WORLD.
AND SURPRISINGLY SUSTAINABLE.
KEYS FISHERIES IN MARATHON KEY
IS THE EXCLUSIVE SUPPLIER FOR JOE'S STONE CRABS.
THEY CATCH, PROCESS, AND DELIVER THE PRIZED PRODUCT
TO JOE'S AND TO CUSTOMERS ALL OVER THE WORLD.
WE'RE IN A 43-FOOT TORRES FISHING BOAT
WITH CAPTAIN KARL LESSARD,
AN INDEPENDENT CONTRACTOR FOR KEYS FISHERIES
WHO'S ON THE WATER COLLECTING FRESH CATCH
6 DAYS A WEEK, 12 HOURS A DAY.
I'VE GOT A LOT OF EX-WIVES AND KIDS I GOTTA SUPPORT.
(laughs)
BUT YOU GOT A REALLY NICE OFFICE.
YES, I DO.
THE STONE CRAB TO ME IS THE CAVIAR OF THE GULF OF MEXICO.
RIGHT.
IT'S THE ONE SEAFOOD THAT IN 41 YEARS
I'VE NEVER GOTTEN TIRED OF.
THEY'RE ONE OF THE FEW CRABS THAT AS THEY GET LARGER,
IT DOESN'T REALLY CHANGE THE TASTE.
NO MATTER HOW BIG THEY GET,
THEY'RE STILL JUST AS ROCKIN' AWESOME.
AND SWEET. OH, IT'S A WONDERFUL THING.
NOW I'M GETTING HUNGRY. WE BETTER FULL BURN
OUT TO THE FISHING GROUND.
IT'S THE CLAW, NOT THE CRAB WE'RE AFTER.
WHAT MANY PEOPLE DON'T REALIZE
IS THAT WHEN A STONE CRAB CLAW IS DETACHED,
A NEW ONE GROWS BACK IN ITS PLACE.
THE FEMALE STONE CRABS REPRODUCE TWICE
BEFORE REGENERATING A HARVESTABLE CLAW,
MAKING STONE CRAB FISHING BOTH SUSTAINABLE
AND PROFITABLE.
WE RAISE THE TRAP SET DAYS EARLIER,
AND MEASURE EACH CLAW
TO MAKE SURE IT'S WITHIN LEGAL LIMITS
BEFORE BEING SEPARATED FROM ITS OWNER.
THE CLAW MUST BE 2 3/4 INCHES LONG FROM ELBOW TO TIP
IN ORDER TO BE A LEGAL HARVEST.
TOO SMALL, JUST AT THE LIMIT, SO YOU THROW 'EM BACK.
YOU CAN SEE THIS CRAB HERE
IS JUST INSIDE THE LEGAL BOUNDARY FOR KEEPING.
THAT'S WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR. TAKE A LOOK AT THIS.
KEYS FISHERIES BRINGS IN AN AVERAGE
OF 3.2 MILLION POUNDS OF CLAWS A YEAR,
WHICH IS ROUGHLY $20 MILLION WHOLESALE.
IT'S A HUGE ECONOMIC ENGINE FOR THIS STATE.
ONE.
TWO. OVERBOARD.
WE CAN TAKE BOTH CLAWS
AS LONG AS THEY MEET THE REQUIRED MEASUREMENTS.
NOW THE BENEFICIAL PART THERE
IS IT FORCES THE CRAB TO EAT MORE SEA GRASS,
WHICH IS GOOD FOR THEM. THEY REGENERATE FASTER.
THE CRAB WILL BURROW INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE OCEAN
AND POP ANOTHER CLAW WITHIN SIX WEEKS,
WHICH CAN BE REHARVESTED WITHIN A YEAR.
WOW.
I MEAN, I-I CAN'T EVEN GRAB THESE THINGS.
THIS IS NOT AS EASY AS IT LOOKS.
I AM NOT KIDDING YOU. I AM HOLDING THIS APART
WITH ALL OF MY STRENGTH.
THESE THINGS ARE SO FRICKIN' STRONG.
MY GOD.
YOU REALLY HAVE TO BE CRAZY TO PUT YOUR HANDS IN THERE.
AAH! WOW, THAT HURT LIKE A MOTHER!
YOU OKAY?
YEAH.
THAT REALLY HURT. THAT IS A STRONG-*** CRAB.
I'M HURT BAD, CAPTAIN.
WHILE I NURSE MY WOUND,
CAPTAIN LESSARD LETS ME IN ON THE SECRET
TO HIS SUCCESS.
YOU CAN BE GOOD. YOU CAN BE LUCKY.
BUT IF YOU'RE GOOD AND LUCKY AND SCIENTIFIC,
YOU USUALLY COME OUT A LITTLE FARTHER AHEAD.
THAT'S RIGHT.
HE'S CHARTED EVERY OCEAN BOTTOM THAT HE'S FISHED
IN THE LAST 30 YEARS, COVERING 2,500 SQUARE MILES.
THIS IS ALL STONE CRAB ALL UP HERE.
YEP.
ALL THIS STUFF THAT ISN'T A RED MARK
IS A NONPRODUCTIVE AREA.
WOW.
ALL THESE TRAPS WE BAITED OVER THE FULL MOON.
SO THE TIDE'S FLOWING HARDER THAN IT NORMALLY FLOWS.
THEN TIMING MEETS TECHNIQUE.
THE TRAPS ARE POWER-BLASTED BEFORE THEY'RE DROPPED.
IF YOU NOTICE, ALL THE CORAL AND BARNACLES MAKE IT WHITE.
CRAB ARE MORE APT TO GO TO A DARK PLACE.
AND YOU ACTUALLY GET A BETTER YIELD.
THEY BAIT WITH PIG'S FEET,
WHICH CAN BE BOUGHT IN LARGE QUANTITIES
WITHOUT RESTRICTION FROM THE GOVERNMENT.
I'M GETTING THE HANG OF IT NOW.
THERE'S A NICE ONE FOR YA.
WHOA!
COME ON! LOOK AT THE SIZE OF THAT!
HE'S DINNER.
WHAT?!
I WOULD LOVE TO TEAR INTO ONE RIGHT NOW,
BUT STONE CRAB CLAWS CAN'T BE EATEN RAW.
IN FACT, ONCE THEY'RE DETACHED,
WE HAVE TO RETURN TO SHORE VERY QUICKLY.
IN THE AMOUNT OF TIME IT TAKES ME
TO GET UP AND OUT OF THE BOAT
AND RINSE OFF MY SHOES,
THE CRAB IS IN HERE. THOSE ARE OUR CLAWS.
THAT'S BECAUSE IF THEY'RE NOT COOKED IMMEDIATELY,
THE MEAT WILL SPOIL.
BYE-BYE, CRABS.
AFTER BOILING FOR EIGHT MINUTES
THEY'RE CHILLED ON ICE FOR 15 MINUTES
SO THE MEAT WON'T STICK TO THE SHELL.
KEYS FISHERIES IS SLAMMING 4,000 TO 5,000 POUNDS
OF STONE CRABS A DAY
AND SHIPPING THEM STRAIGHT TO JOE'S,
WHERE THEY'RE KEPT UNDER LOCK AND KEY
IN A STYLE MORE REMINISCENT OF A BOND FILM
THAN A RESTAURANT KITCHEN.
ONLY AN AUTHORIZED FINGERPRINT
CAN OPEN THE 38-DEGREE WALK-IN FRIDGE.
THIS IS SERIOUS BUSINESS.
EDIBLE GOLD.
SERVED COLD AT THE RESTAURANT,
IT'S A RARE PRIVILEGE TO TASTE STONE CRABS
STILL WARM FROM THE BOILER.
GARY GRAVES, THE VICE PRESIDENT OF KEYS FISHERIES,
BESTOWS ME WITH THE HONOR.
WHEN THEY'RE STILL WARM JUST ON THE CORE,
THERE'S A NUTTY EARTHINESS TO THEM, ALMOST LIKE A MUSHROOM,
THAT YOU DON'T GET
AFTER THEY'VE BEEN--
WHEN IT'S CHILLED. CORRECT. YES.
WHAT A TREAT.
MOST PEOPLE HAVE NEVER HAD 'EM
WHEN THEY'RE FRESH LIKE THAT.
RIGHT.
SO IT'S TOTALLY DIFFERENT.
I DIDN'T THINK THAT IT COULD GET ANY BETTER.
THEY'VE GOTTEN BETTER.
STONE CRABS ARE ONE OF MY FAVORITE FOODS.
AND IT'S CRAZY TO THINK THAT JUST A FEW GENERATIONS AGO,
NO ONE ATE THEM.
SUCH A COOL PART OF SOUTHERN FLORIDA'S CURRENT HISTORY.
IT'S A CRAB THAT'S ENORMOUSLY BELOVED
BY ALL FLORIDIANS,
WHILE THIS CRAB IS BELOVED FOR ITS ENORMITY.
OH, MY, MY, MY.
I'M OUT FOR AN EVENING OF EXCESS
IN MIAMI-SIZED PROPORTIONS.
♪♪
FLAUNTING ITS DECADENT NATURE WITH A WINK AND A SMILE
AND AN INTERNATIONAL FLAIR ALL ITS OWN,
MIAMI IS A CITY BUILT ON EXCESS AND IRONY.
I NEVER WANT TO LEAVE.
IN A TOWN WHERE THE STILETTO HEELS ARE HIGHER,
AND THE SUN SHINES BRIGHTER,
YOU'LL ALSO FIND SOME OF THE MOST EXQUISITE,
OVER-THE-TOP FOOD ANYWHERE.
14 OUNCES AND 12 1/2 INCHES
OF SMOKED, GRILLED, SWINGIN' MEAT.
THE GIMMICKY KOBE BEEF HOT DOG AT PRIME ONE TWELVE
IS A GOOD EXAMPLE OF WHAT HAPPENS WHEN A STEAK HOUSE
IS SHOT THROUGH THE PRISM OF THE EXTREME,
COMPETING FOR ATTENTION IN THIS FEROCIOUS MARKET OF EXCESS.
INSTEAD OF PEANUTS AT THE BAR,
THEY SERVE CRISPY APPLEWOOD-SMOKED BACON STRIPS.
THIS PLACE IS A CARNIVORE'S WET DREAM
AND THE HIGHEST GROSSING RESTAURANT PER SQUARE FOOT
IN THE COUNTRY,
SERVING SIMPLY PREPARED BIG-TICKET ITEMS,
LIKE JAPANESE WAGYU BEEF AT $30 AN OUNCE.
JUST A LITTLE BIT OF SEA SALT,
COOKED RARE, JUST THE WAY I LIKE IT.
AT THIS PRICE, BEEF SHOULD (bleep) GOLD RAINBOWS
ALL OVER YOUR HEAD. WE'LL SEE.
IT'S SPECIALLY BRED FOR INTENSE MARBLING
AND UNSATURATED FAT FOR FLAVOR AND TEXTURE.
IN A FOOD CITY KNOWN FOR PRESENTATION OVER SUBSTANCE,
FOR HYPE OVER REALITY,
I'D PAY TWICE THE PRICE FOR THIS.
THAT'S STUNNING.
IT'S LIKE A PAT OF BUTTER JUST DISAPPEARING INTO MY THROAT.
PRIME ONE TWELVE IS A FAVORITE HANGOUT FOR LOCAL CELEBS--
THAT'S IF THEY'RE NOT DOWN THE STREET SHOWING OFF AT RED,
THE STEAK HOUSE KNOWN FOR ITS STAR APPEAL
AND SCENESTER-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPE.
WHOA, WHOA, WHOA, CHILDREN'S PORTION.
OH, NO. OKAY. SURF AND TURF. WHEW.
THIS IS THE CHILDREN'S PORTION.
OH, MY, MY, MY. LOOK AT THIS.
IF YOU WERE NOT CONVINCED BEFORE THIS
THAT MIAMI TRULY IS A CITY OF EXCESS,
I GIVE YOU RED.
A 64-OUNCE, CERTIFIED-PRIME, DRY-AGED
ANGUS BEEF TOMAHAWK RIB EYE
LEFT ON THE BONE TO GIVE IT THAT "FLINTSTONE" FEELING.
PRICE TAG? $450.
NOW THIS IS BIG,
AND IT MAY LOOK LIKE A DINOSAUR CHOP TO YOU,
BUT IT IS A BEAUTIFUL STEAK.
SIZE COUNTS IN MIAMI.
LESLEY ABRAVANEL IS A FOOD AND NIGHTLIFE COLUMNIST
FOR "THE MIAMI HERALD"
AND THE EDITOR OF eater.com's MIAMI DESK.
SOMEONE WHO DOESN'T EVEN EAT CRAB
WOULD PROBABLY ORDER THAT, BECAUSE IT LOOKS FABULOUS.
MIAMI IS ABOUT MAKING STATEMENTS.
IT'S ALL ABOUT KEEPING UP APPEARANCES, YOU KNOW?
BIGGER AND BETTER.
FOR A COOL $299,
YOU CAN BE SEEN ALONGSIDE A 6-FOOT ALASKAN KING CRAB
THAT'LL FEED YOU AND YOUR ENTOURAGE.
THIS IS SWEET. IT'S SUCCULENT.
IT TASTES OF THE OCEAN. IT'S VERY, VERY INTENSE.
THIS IS WHAT'S WORTH THE WHOLE PRICE OF ADMISSION.
MIAMI.
VICE.
EMBODYING THE ESSENCE OF SOUTH BEACH,
THE APHRODISIAC ICE CREAM TRUCK
IS NAUGHTY OVER-THE-TOP FUN
AND DELIVERS WHAT PEOPLE HAVE COME TO EXPECT IN MIAMI.
THIS IS OUR FIRST EXPERIENCE OF SOUTH BEACH,
AND I COULDN'T BE MORE HAPPY.
(laughs)
TALKING ABOUT HOW GOOD THE ICE CREAM IS HERE
AT THE APHRODISIAC ICE CREAM TRUCK
IS KINDA LIKE TALKING ABOUT HOW GOOD THE WINGS ARE AT ***.
YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN?
IT WASN'T UNTIL THE LATE '80s THAT SOUTH BEACH,
OR SoBe, TRANSFORMED FROM A SLEEPY RETIREMENT COMMUNITY
INTO AN INTERNATIONAL PLAYGROUND.
EVERYTHING DOWN HERE IN MIAMI IS A LITTLE BIT SEXIER.
YES.
DON'T YOU THINK?
I'VE ACTUALLY SEEN GIRLS GOING GROCERY SHOPPING
IN BIKINIS, TOO.
REALLY?
YEAH. IT'S HOT DOWN HERE.
SERIOUSLY.
DO YOU KNOW WHAT I'M SAYING?
THE HIGH NUMBER OF EUROPEAN TOURISTS HERE
AFFECT THE MANNER OF DRESS OR UNDRESS
AND ALSO THE NIGHTLIFE,
WHICH DOESN'T GET GOING UNTIL WELL AFTER MIDNIGHT.
TWO OF THE HOTTEST SPOTS IN MIAMI RIGHT NOW
ARE LOCATED AT THE W HOTEL.
WALL, THE NIGHTCLUB,
AND THE ADJACENT EATERY, THE DUTCH.
AT THE HELM IS ITALIAN TRANSPLANT
AND NIGHTTIME ENTERTAINMENT SAVANT NICOLA SIERVO.
IN A TOWN LIKE MIAMI,
DO PEOPLE COME HERE MOSTLY FOR THE SCENE,
OR DO THEY COME HERE FOR THE GREAT FOOD
OR BOTH NOWADAYS?
IT USED TO BE ONLY FOR THE SCENE.
NOW IT'S A COMBINATION.
IN MIAMI
IT'S SOMETIMES HARD TO DISCERN WHETHER YOU'RE IN A NIGHTCLUB
OR A RESTAURANT.
IS IT MY IMAGINATION,
OR ARE THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN MIAMI
IN THIS RESTAURANT RIGHT NOW?
THAT'S ONE OF THE REASONS
WHY MIAMI IS SO--SO--
YEAH.
YOU HAVE THE RESTAURANTS. YOU HAVE THE CLUBS.
RIGHT.
YOU HAVE THE BEACH, AND YOU HAVE THE GIRLS.
YEAH.
IN ADDITION TO THE BUZZ AND THE BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE,
THE DUTCH'S SUCCESS IS PREDICATED
ON NEW YORK CHEF ANDREW CARMELLINI'S
BRILLIANT AND INSPIRED COOKING--
ROOTSY WITH A SOUTH FLORIDA SPIN.
OH, BRILLIANT.
THAT'S ANDREW'S SIGNATURE OYSTER SANDWICH.
CASE IN POINT--
THE CORNMEAL-ENCRUSTED BLUE POINT OYSTER
FRIED AND TOPPED WITH OKRA IN A SESAME SEED BUN.
SO DECEPTIVELY SIMPLE.
THE OYSTER HAS TO BE FRIED PERFECTLY.
IT'S NOT GREASY.
GORGEOUS LITTLE SHEATH OF LETTUCE,
A WONDERFUL LITTLE RéMOULADE SAUCE,
A SPONGY, LITTLE, EGGY PARKER HOUSE BUN--
THIS IS HEAVEN.
MIAMI HAS BECOME A REPOSITORY
FOR THE MOST STUNNING "IT" CROWD IN THE NATION,
INDULGING ALL OF THEIR SENSES
WITH UNAPOLOGETIC DECADENCE.
I LOVE MIAMI.
FROM THE HYPER-EXCLUSIVE NIGHTCLUB ON THE BEACH
TO THE PARKING LOT OF A LOCAL STRIP MALL,
PEOPLE IN MIAMI LOVE TO PARTY.
QUIéN CAUSA TANTA ALEGRIA?
(all) LA CONCEPCIóN DE MARIA!
AND LATER, ONE MAN'S TRASH-- ANOTHER MAN'S TREASURE.
STICKY, GUMMY, LIKE ROTTING SALTED FISH,
AND IT'S FANTASTIC. YOU DON'T LIKE THIS STUFF, DO YOU?
NO, MAN.
UNFORTUNATELY, UH, NO WAY.
♪♪
IT'S EVIDENT FROM THE PREDOMINANT LANGUAGE
AND CULTURE HERE
THAT MORE THAN HALF OF MIAMI'S OCCUPANTS
ARE OF LATIN DESCENT.
THE SECOND LARGEST GROUP AFTER THE CUBANS
TO MAKE MIAMI HOME HAILS FROM NICARAGUA.
THIS IS LA PURISIMA,
A HOLY CELEBRATION OF THE *** MARY,
DURING WHICH A BOISTEROUS EVENT
CALLED THE GRITERíA TAKES PLACE.
NICARAGUANS ALL OVER THE CITY ARE PREPARING
FOR TONIGHT'S FESTIVITIES,
INCLUDING THE OWNERS OF FRITANGA MONTELIMAR.
THIS IS MY GRANDMOTHER.
GRANDMA.
NINOSKA MOLINA IS THE OWNER OF THE FAMILY-RUN EATERY
WITH THE HELP OF HER DAUGHTER NINOSKA ARGUELLO
AND GRANDSONS MARIO AND AND JURGEN URIZAR.
ORIGINALLY FROM MASAYA, NICARAGUA,
THE FAMILY FLED THE COUNTRY IN 1980
DURING THE SANDINISTA REVOLUTION,
AND NOW CONSIDERS MIAMI HOME.
WE HAVE OUR FOOD. WE HAVE OUR FRIENDS...
RIGHT.
OUR FAMILY. WE HAVE OUR CUSTOMS.
YEP. YEP.
I DON'T MISS ANYTHING. I LOVE IT.
THE FRITANGA IS CONTRIBUTING SOME SNACKS
FOR TONIGHT'S GRITERíA.
WHAT ARE YOU MAKING HERE?
VIGORóN.
VIGORóN.
IT'S A TRADITIONAL NICA DISH OF BOILED YUCCA,
CHICHARRONES, AND CABBAGE.
THE NICE THING IS THAT THIS ALL SOFTENS UP.
AND THEN YOU SQUEEZE A LITTLE LIME,
MAYBE A LITTLE HOT SAUCE.
ABSOLUTELY, THE HOT SAUCE
IS AN IMPORTANT INGREDIENT IN THIS.
OTHER NICA SPECIALTIES BUBBLE ON THE STOVETOPS
IN ANTICIPATION OF THE CROWD FORMING AT THE DOOR.
HOLIDAYS LIKE THIS MEAN A LOT OF HUNGRY CUSTOMERS.
WHAT WE HAVE HERE ARE THE FAMOUS NICARAGUAN NACATAMALES.
UH-HUH.
OH, YEAH, BABY.
(speaking Spanish)
SO SHE SAYS IN NICARAGUA THEY DON'T REALLY USE ALUMINUM.
RIGHT.
WHAT THEY JUST USE IS A PLANTAIN LEAF.
IT'S A FULL MEAL.
FIRST BITE OF MY DAY,
AND I WANT TO CRUSH THE ENTIRE THING.
THE CORN MASA AND THE PORK FAT THAT'S IN THERE IS JUST INSANE.
OH, AND THE MINT AND TOMATO--
THAT BEAUTIFUL ASTRINGENCY WITH THE ACID FROM THE TOMATO
AND THE MINT--OH.
THIS IS SO GOOD.
I'M GLAD YOU LIKE IT.
THIS IS NICARAGUAN COMFORT FOOD.
WHEN YOU WALK INTO A RESTAURANT,
AND YOU SEE A STAFF LIKE THIS OF MOMS AND GRANDMOMS
DOING ALL HOME-STYLE COOKING,
YOU KNOW YOU HAVE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE.
ALL OF THE STAPLES ARE DISPLAYED BUFFET STYLE,
A TYPICAL FRITANGA SETUP.
MY FAVORITE--THE LENGUA.
IT'S ACTUALLY GRANDMA'S RECIPE.
IT'S VERY SOFT AND TENDER.
I TELL PEOPLE TO EAT MORE TONGUE.
IT'S LIKE POT ROAST.
YEAH, IT'S REALLY GOOD TONGUE.
OH, IT'S JUST PERFECT-- A LITTLE TART, A LITTLE SWEET.
AND THEN YOU GET THAT BEEFY INTENSITY
JUST WASHING IT ALL DOWN. THAT'S REMARKABLE.
MMM.
YOU GUYS DO A FANTASTIC JOB.
YOU MUST MAKE A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO ARE HOMESICK VERY HAPPY.
THE GRITERíA COMMENCES AT NIGHTFALL,
SO I HAVE TIME TO EXPLORE LITTLE MANAGUA.
THIS IS SWEETWATER, A MIAMI SUBURB
HOSTING THE DENSEST POPULATION OF NICARAGUANS
IN THE UNITED STATES.
BUT IF YOU BLINK AS YOU DRIVE BY,
YOU MIGHT MISS IT.
THERE'S NO BIG SIGN SAYING, YOU KNOW,
"WELCOME TO LITTLE MANAGUA."
IT WOULD KINDA FEEL LIKE YOU'RE SOMEWHERE OTHER THAN MIAMI.
YOU CAN SEE ALL THE NICARAGUAN FLAGS EVERYWHERE.
A FIRST-GENERATION NICARAGUAN AMERICAN
AND LOCAL JOURNALIST,
RODOLFO ROMAN WAS RAISED IN AND AROUND SWEETWATER.
I'M MEETING HIM AT RASPADOS LOLY'S,
ANOTHER FAMILY-RUN BUSINESS SERVING GRANDMA'S VERSION
OF A POPULAR TREAT.
SHAVED ICE IS SOMETHING THAT I HAVE TO HAVE
EVERY TIME I'M IN CENTRAL OR SOUTH AMERICA.
GRANDMA IS ELOISA GUATEMALA,
OR "LOLY."
HER VERSION OF SHAVED ICE
LIES IN A BED OF POUND CAKE, DOUSED IN YOUR CHOICE OF SYRUP,
AND THEN THE LAYERS ARE REPEATED.
I OPT FOR THE MOST POPULAR-- DOLCE DE LECHE.
YOU GOTTA SMASH IT FIRST.
THEY MAKE THE DOLCE DE LECHE HERE.
I CAN SMELL IT.
(sputters)
I'M OVERWHELMED.
(chuckles)
I MEAN, LITERALLY. THIS IS A THING OF BEAUTY.
NICARAGUANS CAME UP WITH IT.
I MEAN, MY GOD.
OH, MY GOD.
(chuckles)
IT'S MILKY, BROWN, BUTTERY, SMOKY--
OH, GOD, THE SCORCHED SUGAR IN THERE IS JUST PERFECT.
IT'S THE POUND CAKE THAT YOU DON'T REALLY FIGURE
IS GONNA WORK, BUT IT DOES.
I'M GOING INTO A DIABETIC COMA,
BUT I WILL DIE VERY HAPPILY.
MMM.
AN HOUR ON THE TREADMILL WILL BE OKAY FOR THAT.
WHAT'S A TREADMILL?
THE TREADMILL. TO RUN. TO JOG.
I HAVE--I'M--
I DON'T SPEAK SPANISH.
NO.
AT DUSK IT'S TIME TO HEAD TO THE GRITERíA,
WHERE A CROWD GATHERS TO SING TO THE *** MARY,
JOCKEY FOR SWEET TREATS, AND ENJOY THE TRADITIONAL FARE.
IN NICARAGUA, THE CELEBRATION TAKES PLACE
OUTSIDE OF PEOPLE'S HOMES.
HERE IN SOUTH FLORIDA,
WE'RE IN THE PARKING LOT OF A STRIP MALL.
IT'S KIND OF LIKE HALLOWEEN. THE CROWD SINGS TO THE ***,
AND IN RETURN THEY'RE OFFERED A TREAT.
THE FOLKS FROM FRITANGA MONTELIMAR
DISTRIBUTE THE VIGORóN.
I PURPOSELY DIDN'T HAVE ONE.
BECAUSE I KNEW I WAS GONNA HAVE ONE TONIGHT.
VIGORóN IS MEANT TO BE EATEN WITH YOUR HANDS.
IT GIVES IT A BETTER FLAVOR WITH YOUR HANDS.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS.
MMM.
THE YUCCA--
BEAUTIFUL, CREAMY LITTLE TUBER,
NICE ROOT VEGETABLE, VERY SIMPLE,
TART VEGETABLE SALAD, CABBAGE,
A LITTLE SALT, LITTLE LIME, LITTLE VINEGAR...
VINEGAR.
AND THE CHICHARRONES. I MEAN, IT'S JUST FANTASTIC.
THE CELEBRATION OF THE PURISIMA
BEGAN IN THE 1850s NEAR THE CITY OF GRANADA
TO RETURN JOY TO A WAR-TORN NATION.
IT'S A TRADITION SO EMBEDDED IN THE CULTURE
THAT NICARAGUAN AMERICANS STILL OBSERVE IT TODAY.
WHEN YOU LISTEN TO THE MUSIC,
AND YOU LISTEN TO THE LANGUAGE THAT'S BEING SPOKEN,
IF YOU SQUINT, YOU MIGHT AS WELL BE IN GRANADA.
THE GRITERíA, WHICH TRANSLATES AS THE "SHOUTING,"
IS ACTUALLY A CELEBRATION
OF THE CONCEPTION OF THE *** MARY.
THINK ABOUT IT.
ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS THINGS
THAT ALMOST DIDN'T REALLY HAPPEN,
BUT DID HAPPEN--
THERE'S REALLY NO WAY TO TALK ABOUT THIS DELICATELY, IS THERE?
NO.
IT'S BEST JUST LEFT ALONE.
THERE'S ALWAYS A PERSON WHO SHOUTS OUT,
"QUIéN CAUSA TANTA ALEGRIA,"
WHICH IS "WHO HAS THE MOST HAPPINESS?"
AND WHEN YOU SCREAM THAT OUT,
EVERYONE, THE ENTIRE CROWD SCREAMS BACK,
"LA CONCEPCIóN DE MARIA."
HOLA! QUIéN CAUSA TANTA ALEGRIA?
(all) LA CONCEPCIóN DE MARIA!
WHILE NICARAGUANS CELEBRATE IN SWEETWATER,
IN MIDTOWN MIAMI A COUPLE OF CUTTING-EDGE CHEFS
GIVE US SOMETHING ELSE TO SHOUT ABOUT.
ARE YOU KIDDING ME? WHAT THE HECK IS THAT?
THEY'RE TRANSFORMING A PREHISTORIC BEAST
INTO A MODERN-DAY MENU ITEM.
AND LATER I'M DINING WITH DANGER.
IN A FEW MINUTES
YOU'RE GONNA FEEL IT IN THE BACK OF YOUR THROAT.
IT'S ALMOST LIKE THERE'S SHARDS OF GLASS IN IT.
♪♪
SOME OF THE BEST FISHING IN THE WORLD
HAPPENS IN FLORIDA'S GULF COAST,
AND THAT MEANS FRESH CATCH FOR DINING SPOTS
SERVING LOCAL SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD,
FROM THE FANCY MIDTOWN MIAMI EATERIES
TO THE MOM-AND-POP SHOPS HERE IN LITTLE HAVANA.
AND THE ONE PLACE THAT EVERYBODY TELLS ME I NEED TO CHECK OUT
IS la CAMARONERA.
IT'S A NO-FRILLS HOLE-IN-THE-WALL
WITH A COUPLE OF FRYERS AND A STAND-UP COUNTER
FEATURING EXQUISITE SEAFOOD DELIVERED DAILY
FROM THEIR OWN FISHERMAN.
LOOK AT THE MAHI MAHI AND THE BIG RED SNAPPER.
THERE'S NO OXIDATION IN THE BLOOD LINE.
IT'S PINK. THAT IS FRESH, FRESH, FRESH, FRESH.
STARTING AS A WHOLESALE FISHERY,
la CAMARONERA HAS BEEN COOKING IT UP FRESH SINCE 1976.
THEY GO THROUGH 60 POUNDS OF SHRIMP A DAY
AS WELL SOME TRADITIONAL ODDS AND ENDS
THAT MIGHT SEEM STRANGE TO MOST AMERICAN PALATES.
HOW ABOUT SOME FISH ROE?
YOU HAVE FISH ROE?
THE MAHI EGG SAC IS SLICED,
FRIED, AND SEASONED...
OH, MY GOODNESS.
AND TOPPED, IF YOU LIKE,
WITH A HOUSE-MADE HOT SAUCE OF LIME, GARLIC OIL, AND CHILIES.
THIS TO ME IS GRANDPA FOOD. I LOVE IT.
IT'S STILL ONE OF OUR TOP SELLERS.
STILL?
YEAH.
THANK GOD.
WE'RE IN LITTLE HAVANA.
DAVID GARCIA'S FATHER WAS 1 OF 11 FISHERMEN BROTHERS
WHO EMIGRATED FROM CUBA IN 1964.
OH, MAN.
IT HAS THE FLAVOR THROUGH THE NOSE OF, LIKE, SCRAMBLED EGGS.
IT SMELLS LIKE IT COMES FROM THE SEA,
TASTES LIKE IT COMES FROM THE SEA.
IT DEFINITELY TASTES LIKE IT COMES FROM THE SEA.
AND THE KEY THING IS JUST NOT OVERCOOKING IT.
EXACTLY.
I MEAN, LOOK AT THIS. WHEN YOU BREAK IT APART,
YOU CAN SEE ALL THOSE MILLIONS OF LITTLE EGGS
AND JUST THAT BLUSH IN THE MIDDLE.
IT'S LIKE SOFT-BOILED EGGS OF THE SEA.
THE COUP DE GRâCE IS AN UNDER-THE-COUNTER
GRAY MARKET RARITY COURTESY OF GRANDPA GARCIA.
IT'S SALT-CURED MULLET ROE.
KNOWN AS BOTTARGA IN SOME CIRCLES,
IT'S AN OBSCURE HOMEMADE DELICACY.
REALLY GREAT BOTTARGA,
STICKY, GUMMY, LIKE ROTTING SALTED FISH,
AND IT'S FANTASTIC. IT'S AMAZING.
I MEAN, I EAT 'EM LIKE CANDY.
YOU DON'T LIKE THIS STUFF, DO YOU?
NO, MAN.
UNFORTUNATELY, UH, NO WAY.
MMM. WHAT A TREAT.
FROM SIMPLE, TRADITIONAL RECIPES
TO AVANT-GARDE INNOVATION,
MIAMI IS A SURFEIT OF SEAFOOD CUISINE.
IN MIDTOWN, ADJACENT TO SOUTH BEACH,
A FORMER ABANDONED WAREHOUSE AREA
IS NOW THE CITY'S DESIGN DISTRICT,
FEATURING HIGH-END ART GALLERIES
AND PROGRESSIVE RESTAURANTS.
THINK SOHO BY THE BEACH.
IT'S HERE THAT MY FRIEND MICHAEL SCHWARTZ
PIONEERED HIS OWN SPIN
ON THE FARM- AND OCEAN-TO-CUSTOMER MOVEMENT
SERVING LOCAL, SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENTS
AT HIS RESTAURANT, MICHAEL'S GENUINE FOOD & DRINK
(Andrew) WELL, THAT'S A BIG FISH.
GEORGE FIGUEROA IS A COMMERCIAL FISHERMAN AND DIVER
SPECIALIZING IN OBSCURE LOCAL SPECIES
LIKE WAHOO, COBIA, AND WRECKFISH,
WHICH HE DELIVERS DAILY TO MICHAEL'S GENUINE.
(Michael) GEORGE, WHAT TO YOU GOT?
UNBELIEVABLE.
(George) JUST PRISTINE.
GEORGE AND HIS DIVERS FREE-DIVE UP TO 80 FEET.
90% OF IT IS ALL SPEARED.
IT'S GOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, AND CUSTOMERS KNOW
IT'S AS FRESH AS IT GETS.
AND THE GUESTS LOVE SEEING THIS FISH COME THROUGH THE DOOR.
OF COURSE.
WE FEEL LIKE THAT CONNECTION...
MM-HMM.
WITH THE FOOD AND WITH THE FISHERMEN
AND WITH THE FISH...
THE CHALLENGING PART
IS YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU'RE GONNA GET.
BRADLEY HERRON IS MICHAEL'S CHEF DE CUISINE.
HE AND MICHAEL PRIDE THEMSELVES
ON USING IMPROVISATIONAL COOKING TECHNIQUES
ON SEASONABLY AVAILABLE INGREDIENTS.
WE PRINT THE MENU EVERY DAY...
YEAH.
BASED ON WHAT'S COMING IN THE DOOR.
30 OR 40 COMING IN.
OH, MY GOSH.
WHAT THE HECK IS THAT?
WRECKFISH.
WRECKFISH IS A DEEP-WATER MARINE BEHEMOTH
FOUND IN CAVES AND SHIPWRECKS OFF THE ATLANTIC COAST.
ARE YOU KIDDING ME?
THOSE ARE ITS TEETH?
YEAH.
CONSIDERED TRASH FISH UNTIL ONLY RECENTLY,
IT HAS JUST THE RIGHT RATIO OF FAT TO LEAN
EQUATING TO GREAT TEXTURE AND FLAVOR ON THE PLATE.
IT'S UNIQUE.
(voices overlapping)
THERE'S ONLY FIVE OR SIX BOATS THAT GO OUT FISHING FOR THIS.
(Andrew) MM-HMM.
SO THEY'RE NOT WIPING OUT SPECIES.
THAT'S CRAZY PREHISTORIC.
YEAH.
I'M GONNA DO SOMETHING WITH THAT.
NO, OF COURSE YOU ARE.
IT'S KIND OF AN IMPROV CHALLENGE.
THREE CHEFS, A COUPLE OF SQUARE FEET OF KITCHEN,
AND A MARINE MONSTER WITH INFINITE POTENTIAL.
BRADLEY CUTS UP
BETWEEN 100 AND 150 POUNDS OF FISH A DAY.
THAT IS GORGEOUS.
THAT'S MY FAVORITE PART.
IS IT REALLY?
YEAH.
RIGHT THERE.
IT'S THE LITTLE HIDDEN GEM.
YEAH. YEAH, YEAH, IT GOES ALL THE WAY UP HERE.
IT'S SUCH A BEAUTIFUL LITTLE TENDERLOIN.
MICHAEL PUTS DIBS ON THE CHEEK, SO I CLAIM THE COLLAR.
THAT IS GOOD EATING. STUNNING.
I SLOW-ROAST MINE IN THE WOOD-BURNING OVEN,
TOP IT WITH MY SECRET SAUCE.
BUT IT'S LIKE A FISH SAUCE CARAMEL
SEASONED WITH THE SHALLOTS, BLACK PEPPER,
ONE HOT CHILI, AND STAR ANISE.
IT'S THAT SWEET-SALTY THING THAT'S REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
AND LAID ATOP A BED OF SCALLIONS, RADISH,
AND CILANTRO. NOW IT'S MIKE'S TURN.
(Michael) A QUICK SAUTé OF THIS CHEEK...
(Andrew) MM-HMM.
AND MAKE A LITTLE STEW WITH THE EGGPLANT, TOMATO,
GARLIC, BASIL, SOME SCALLIONS.
OH, PERFECT. I LOVE THAT.
BRADLEY'S CHEATING.
HE WHIPS OUT A PREVIOUSLY PREPARED MISE EN PLACE.
I DON'T KNOW WHETHER TO CRY FOUL OR WEEP FOR JOY.
FIRST I MAKE A LITTLE-- LITTLE BRAISE.
UH-HUH.
SOME SPICY CHORIZO, FLORIDA OCTOPUS,
WHICH NOT MANY PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT FLORIDA OCTOPUS.
CARIBBEAN REEF OCTOPUS IS FOUND NOCTURNALLY
IN SHALLOW WATERS OFF THE FLORIDA KEYS.
A LITTLE SAFFRON AIOLI TO GO WITH THE WHOLE SPANISH THEME.
OH. OH!
AND SOME LOCAL PEA SHOOTS.
I'LL TELL YOU SOMETHING, THAT IS STUNNING.
YOU JUST WENT BOUILLABAISSE ON THE WHOLE BIT.
AND THE MOMENT OF TRUTH.
WOW. THIS IS DELICATE.
IT'S GOT A REALLY NUTTY, SOFT FLAVOR THAT HOLDS UP ON ITS OWN.
MICHAEL'S SIMPLE, ELEGANT COOKING STYLE
WON HIM THE JAMES BEARD AWARD FOR BEST CHEF OF THE SOUTH
IN 2010.
THE CHEEK IS FATTIER. IT HAS A LITTLE BIT MORE FLAVOR.
IT ALMOST HAS, LIKE, A MILD, SORT OF MELON-Y TEXTURE,
A LITTLE MUSHROOM AROMA.
I WANT TO BE ALONE WITH YOUR TWO DISHES.
OKAY.
THE COLLAR OF THE FISH BEGS A UNIQUE APPROACH.
THE SMOKY CHAR-NESS ON THE COLLAR
AND THEN THE SWEET, SALTY KIND OF SOURNESS--
IT DIDN'T SUCK AT ALL.
HIGH PRAISE FROM MIAMI'S FINEST.
ARE YOU KIDDING ME? THAT'S FANTASTIC.
I'M PARTAKING IN YET ANOTHER EXPERIMENT
WITH MORE OF MIAMI'S CULINARY ELITE.
TOUGHEST CROWD IN MIAMI MIGHT BE OUT THERE TONIGHT.
IT'S AN UNDERGROUND DINNER FOR SERIOUS FOOD GEEKS.
(man) IT'S THE DISNEYLAND FOR FOODIES.
IT'S ABOUT THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE.
♪♪
ONLY IN THE LAST FEW YEARS HAS MIAMI BLOSSOMED
INTO A COSMOPOLITAN FOOD TOWN
ATTRACTING SOPHISTICATED GASTRONOMES
FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
TAKING IT TO THE NEXT LEVEL
IS AN ELITE COLLECTION OF LOCAL CHEFS
EAGER TO FLEX THEIR CULINARY MUSCLES
AND A GROUP OF DARING DINERS WILLING TO TRY ANYTHING.
IT'S AN EXCLUSIVE UNDERGROUND DINNER CALLED A COBAYA,
THE SPANISH WORD FOR "GUINEA PIG."
THE LOCATION IS KEPT SECRET UNTIL THE LAST MINUTE.
AND THERE ARE NO CHOICES ON THE MENU.
COBAYAS USUALLY TAKE PLACE IN MORE RUGGED SETTINGS,
BUT TONIGHT WE'RE AT THE UPSCALE AZUL
IN THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL
IN THE CAPABLE HANDS OF CHEF JOEL HUFF.
HE'S A RISING STAR IN THE FOOD WORLD
WHO PAIRS HIS INTERNATIONAL TRAINING
WITH THE LOCAL FOODS THAT INSPIRE HIM MOST.
PLEASE, LORD, TELL ME THAT LOOKS LIKE AN OVERGROWN LONG PEPPER.
(Joel) IT'S NOT. IT'S--
(laughs)
IT'S CALLED A MONSTERA FRUIT.
MONSTERA?
YES. IT'S INDIGENOUS TO SOUTH AMERICA.
UH-HUH.
BUT WE'RE LUCKY HERE TO HAVE IT IN FLORIDA.
SURE.
MOST NATIVE FLORIDIANS HAVE NEVER HEARD
OF THE MONSTERA FRUIT,
AND THERE MAY BE A REASON WHY IT'S NOT MORE WIDELY EMBRACED.
THE LEAF IS POISONOUS, BUT YOU CAN EAT THE FRUIT.
YOU HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL THE FRUIT RIPENS...
SURE.
AND IT'S BASICALLY ROTTING.
TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK IT TASTES LIKE.
IT HAS THE TEXTURE OF BANANA.
IT HAS THE SWEETNESS AFTER YOU SWALLOW OF BANANA.
AND AT THE FRONT IT'S LIKE A PINEAPPLE,
LYCHEE, MANGOSTEEN HYBRID.
STRAW-- AND STRAWBERRY.
IT'S GORGEOUS. CERTAIN FOODS ARE SORT OF ONE-NOTE CHARLIES.
THIS HAS, LIKE, SIX OR EIGHT DIFFERENT FLAVOR MOMENTS...
IT DOES.
AS YOU'RE EATING, EVEN WHEN YOU'RE DONE CHEWING,
AND YOU PUT IT BACK THROUGH YOUR NOSE.
AND IT IS INCREDIBLE.
AND GUESS WHAT? IN A FEW MINUTES YOU'RE GONNA FEEL IT
IN THE BACK OF YOUR THROAT.
IT'S ALMOST LIKE THERE'S SHARDS OF GLASS IN IT.
IT SOUNDS SO DANGEROUS WHEN YOU SAY IT, CHEF.
(chuckles)
THAT'S AMAZING.
I JUST GOT THAT LITTLE THING IN THE BACK OF MY--
RIGHT.
JUST A LITTLE GRIT.
RIGHT.
IT FEELS LIKE A MICROSCOPIC PIECE OF SANDPAPER.
THERE IS A METHOD TO JOEL'S MADNESS.
HE'S PAIRING THE FRUIT WITH SEA URCHIN,
AN INTERESTING COMBINATION, TO BE SURE.
I'VE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. I'M GOING ON A GUT FEELING, I GUESS.
AND I'M THINKING, WHAT'S GOOD WITH UNI BESIDES FRESH WASABI?
I NEED TO PAIR IT WITH SOMETHING SOUR.
SO I TURNED THIS PURéE INTO HIBISCUS.
THIS IS MONSTERA FRUIT WITH HIBISCUS TEA IN IT.
WHICH ALSO COMES--
HENCE THE PURPLE COLOR.
IT'S PRETTY GOOEY.
RIGHT.
BUT IT MAKES TOTAL SENSE AFTER EATING IT.
IT TOTALLY MAKES SENSE...
PERFECT.
BECAUSE IT'S GOT THE SWEET. IT'S GOT THE SOUR.
WE'RE PUTTING THE WASABI FOR THE SPICE.
MM-HMM.
IT'S GOT THAT WHOLE BALANCE IN THAT TRILOGY...
YEAH. YEAH.
THAT WE LOVE SO MUCH IN OUR MOUTH.
NEXT WE'RE GONNA TRY THESE, UM, SNAILS.
OKAY.
IT'S ACTUALLY GONNA GO ON A DISH WE'RE DOING TONIGHT.
IT'S CALLED FOREST FLOOR.
YEAH.
UM, WE'RE IN THE WINTER RIGHT NOW HERE, SO IT'S VERY--
DO YOU KNOW, IT FEELS IT.
I KNOW.
IT WAS, LIKE, 80 OUTSIDE.
82 HERE RIGHT NOW, SO IT'S KIND OF--
KIND OF GETTING COLD, CHILLY.
BRUTAL.
JOEL RETURNS OUR SENSES TO THE SOURCE,
TAKING THE ANONYMITY OUT OF THE STANDARD ESCARGOT PLATE.
PUT HOT ROCKS WITH HERBS AND MOSS AND NONEDIBLES.
THAT'S AWESOME.
IT REMINDS YOU OF THE FLOOR.
RIGHT.
AND WE POUR TABLESIDE TEA WITH... (speaking indistinctly)
YEAH.
AND WE POUR THAT ON TOP, AND IT GIVES YOU
AND IT GIVES YOU THAT ESSENCE OF BEING IN THE REDWOODS.
RIGHT.
IT SMELLS LIKE THE FOREST FLOOR.
THE IDEA OF A CHEF
BEING ABLE TO TAKE YOU TO A PLACE
AND TO GIVE YOU MORE THAN ONE SENSORY EXPERIENCE,
'CAUSE YOU'RE GONNA SMELL THE SNAIL AS YOU EAT IT,
YOU'RE GONNA SMELL WHAT'S IN THE BOWL...
RIGHT.
THAT TO ME IS WHAT GREAT FOOD IS ALL ABOUT.
RIGHT.
TO ME DINING AT THIS LEVEL, I MEAN...
SURE.
IT'S THE DISNEYLAND FOR FOODIES. IT'S ABOUT THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE.
WITH PRECISION AND A MODERNIST APPROACH,
CHEF HUFF THROWS THE KIND OF FIREPOWER AT HIS FOOD
AND HIS STAFF...
ALL RIGHT, LET'S GO, DIEGO!
THAT MAKES HIS CREATIONS SECOND TO NONE.
HERE, OKAY?
GOT IT.
NO, NO, NO, GIVE ME THAT PURéE.
I SAID TWO, RIGHT? DIDN'T I SAY TWO, BOYS?
AM I THE ONLY ONE THAT LISTENS?
IT'S GO TIME.
THE GUESTS WHO RECEIVED LOCATION DETAILS ONLY HOURS AGO
FILE IN FOR TONIGHT'S EXPERIMENT.
WELCOME TO AZUL RESTAURANT.
THE ORGANIZERS ARE STEVE SCHARF AND DAVID ROSENDORF,
JUST A COUPLE OF FRIENDS WHO WANTED TO EXPAND
THEIR CULINARY HORIZONS.
FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO HAVE BEEN HERE BEFORE,
YOU KNOW THAT YOU'RE IN FOR A TREAT.
FOR THOSE WHO HAVEN'T, YOU'RE IN FOR A TREAT.
FIRST UP--THE SEA URCHIN
WITH FRESH WASABI AND MONSTERA FRUIT.
SPECTACULAR. AND I REALLY DO LIKE THAT TART FRUIT
WITH THAT BRACING BACKBONE
OF THE TEA FLAVOR IN THE SORBET
PAIRED UP WITH THAT SORT OF DANK INTENSITY
OF THE SEA URCHIN.
IT WAS DELICIOUS.
THE FRESH WASABI WAS REALLY FABULOUS WITH THAT UNI.
LIKE SO MANY UNDERGROUND MOVEMENTS,
SOCIAL MEDIA IS AT THE CORE OF COBAYA'S SUCCESS.
PEOPLE WHO REALLY ENJOY FOOD IN MIAMI
REALLY GET TOGETHER OVER-- OVER INTERNET.
WE'RE TWITTER FRIENDS.
IT'S eHarmony FOR FOODIES.
IT'S ALWAYS A REALLY EXCITING ADVENTURE.
FOR JOEL'S BEETS-ANELLA SALAD,
HE USES LIQUID NITROGEN TO TRANSFORM BLUE CHEESE
INTO A SNOWY PANNA COTTA
SPRINKLED ATOP A VARIETY OF BEETS.
(Joel) THERE'S ABOUT 36 COMPONENTS ON THIS DISH.
SO THIS ONE'S A HEAVY HITTER.
THAT'S GORGEOUS. THIS IS A TOWN THAT LOVES THINGS
THAT ARE OVER THE TOP. THIS IS AN OOHer AND AHHer.
IN MIAMI I FIND
THAT THERE'S KIND OF A LIMITED PALATE UNIVERSE,
AND THIS ALLOWS YOU TO STEP OUT OF THAT.
BUT DEFINITELY THIS IS WHAT CHEFS ARE DOING
AT THE CUTTING EDGE.
AND OF COURSE, THE CARNAROLI RISOTTO
WITH WILD MUSHROOMS AND BASIL SNAILS,
THE DISH THAT TURNS BACKYARD INGREDIENTS
INTO AN UPSCALE ADVENTURE.
GORGEOUS.
YOU CAN TASTE THE BASIL IN THE SNAILS
AS THEY COME UP THROUGH THERE.
AND THE WHOLE TIME I'M EATING IT,
I'M SMELLING THE FOREST FLOOR.
IT TRULY IS LIKE WALKING IN THE REDWOOD FOREST.
THIS IS ONE OF THOSE COURSES THAT WHEN PEOPLE SAY,
"WHAT--TELL ME ABOUT YOUR MOST MEMORABLE THING
YOU'VE EATEN IN A LONG TIME," THIS IS IT.
LEE SCHRAGER IS THE DIRECTOR AND FOUNDER
OF THE SOUTH BEACH FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL
AND ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREAT FOOD PATRONS.
MIAMI FEELS GREAT THESE DAYS
AND--AND--AND GROWN UP AS A FOOD TOWN.
YOU KNOW?
IT'S COME A LONG WAY.
WELL, IF THIS IS HOW THEY EAT IN MIAMI,
I'M DEFINITELY NEVER LEAVING.
WHERE ARE WE EATING NEXT MONTH?
GOTTA GET ON THE LIST.
FROM THE TINY NICARAGUAN FRITANGA
TO THE FISH SHACK IN LITTLE HAVANA
OR THE GLOSSY, UPSCALE EATERIES OF MIDTOWN AND SOUTH BEACH,
MIAMI WEAVES MULTICULTURAL HERITAGE
WITH A BLEND OF OLD AND NEW TRADITIONS.
IS IT AMERICA'S SEXIEST CITY? I BELIEVE SO.
IS IT THE UNOFFICIAL CAPITAL OF SOUTH AMERICA?
YOU BET YOUR ASADA.
AND MOST DEFINITELY IT'S A CITY HELPING TO REDEFINE
OUR COUNTRY'S PALATE ONE DISH AT A TIME.
AND REMEMBER, IF IT LOOKS GOOD,
EAT IT.