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This tutorial is for this zippered lettermanís jacket, and there are so many good lessons
in this tutorial.
This is worked like a top down raglan, but weíre knitting it in pieces so that we can
have the sleeves be a separate color.
Because of that weíre going to learn how to seam these together, weíre going to learn
how to combine the two fronts and the back to knit the body all in one piece, weíre
going to learn how to do this fair isle detail at the bottom, and we have icord edging all
over this sweater so weíre going to learn how to do icord edging along the sides of
the front along the zipper here, and along the bottom and the bottom of the sleeves.
We will also learn how to put a zipper into a cardigan like this, and then last weíll
learn how to pick up stitches around the collar and work a short row collar that gives us
this stand up, tapered collar.
So, lots of good lessons!
If youíve made it to the first part of the lesson, youíve probably decided on what colors
you want for the body of the sweater and the sleeves.
And to get started, weíre going to be using the main color or the body color of the sweater.
Weíre going to cast on for the back and the two fronts separately, and then join them
together after weíve done the increases.
Like I said before, this is a raglan style sweater, but weíre going to be knitting it
in separate pieces then seaming it together to make it easy since weíre doing the sleeves
in a different color.
Letís take a closer look.
Here is my itty bitty sample.
And youíll see here, we have the fronts and the sleeve ñ this sleeve is not attached
yet, and then the back.
So that gives us one, two, three, four, five separate pieces.
Weíre going to start first casting on here for the back, and then we will knit up to
the underarm point, then cast on for each of the fronts, knit them separately, then
weíll be joining them all together.
Now to do this, weíre going to need to maintain an icord edge, which is where the zipperís
going to go, weíre going to learn how to do that on both the right and left sides.
And youíll also need to do make 1 stitches to get the increases down here for the arms
on both the fronts and the back.
So, your pattern will spell all of this out, how they all go together.
Iím just going to show you the techniques right now.
Okay.
Now the first technique youíll be using on the back is a make 1 stitch.
And the make 1 is a one stitch increase, and Iím going to show you how to do a make 1
left first.
Now, youíll knit up to the place where you need to do a make 1, and then if you look
between two stitches, there will be an obvious bar. You want to pick up that bar from back
to front ñ whoops, Iím sorry. From front to back with the left needle ñ let me show
you that again.
Thereís the bar, Iím going to pick it up from front to back with the left needle. Then
Iím going to take the right needle and knit it through the back loop like that.
Iíll show you that again, this is a make 1 left.
There is the bar between the two stitches, Iíll pick it up front to back, and knit it
through the back loop.
Whoops. If itís tricky to get the needle in there, youíre working the make 1 correctly.
Now to do a make 1 right, itís kind of just the opposite.
Same bar, but youíre going to pick it up from back to front, and youíre going to knit
that loop through the front, normally.
Itís hard to get your needle in there, like I said.
But if itís hard to get your needle in, youíre putting the correct twist on the stitch.
Okay.
So again, with the make 1 right, pick it up back to front, and knit it through the front
loop.
Iím going to create some slack on this stitch there with my first finger, so I can more
easily get the needle in.
Okay, now the icord edging is what youíre going to need to be working on both the front
pieces.
And Iím kind of starting in the middle of the row here, but the technique is the same.
Youíll be doing it on the edge on the right and the left edge, depending on what piece
youíre working.
On the right side, it says slip three with yarn in back, so you always slip as if to
purl.
One, two, three.
So your yarnís in back, you slip three, and you knit the next one.
And what that does ñ pretending that weíre at the edge of the work here, that bunches
those stitches up and kind of rolls them, and gives us this rolled edge here.
And then ñ well let me knit across this.
On the wrong side of the work, youíre going to slip three with yarn in front.
So your yarn is hanging out here in front because youíre on the purl side.
Slip one, two, three, and purl the next stitch.
And again, thatís going to give us the nice rolled edge.
Those are the techniques you need to work the back piece and the two fronts.
And next up weíre going to talk about combining those pieces on to one needle to knit them
together for the body of the sweater.
Now youíve finished knitting the three pieces, the two fronts and the one back.
And youíve finished the raglan increases, and now weíre ready to join all those into
one, long piece of knitting around the whole body, and knit the rest of the body down.
Letís take a look at what we have.
In my itty bitty sample pieces here, youíll see I have the three pieces that look like
this.
The increases are here on this side, and the rolled edges are here on the outside.
We left the left front attached, Iíve already slid the back stitches on to the circular
needle.
And you donít have to use a circular needle for this, but it is, especially if youíre
knitting the womanís size, it is a lot of stitches, so circulars hold the stitches nicely.
Now here Iíve got my right front on this piece of scrap yarn. I need to slide it on
with the rest of them.
And this is a simple thing! But I messed it up the first time!
Make sure that your flat edges, the rolled edges, are on the outsides like this, and
the increase edges are here like this.
I actually had, [laughs] I had these two pieces mixed up. And I had to stop and do another
take to get it right.
Itís just one of those things that youíd think would be really simple, and you can
still mess it up.
So Iím sliding the needle in, to these stitches held on the scrap yarn to get them on the
needle, and Iím really confident that itís going on there correctly this time.
Iím tugging on the scrap yarn to get the final stitch to come out, because it got buried.
Okay.
Now that thatís all on here, I can get rid of the scrap yarn.
Now this is all on here, arranged properly, with the increases on the inside and the rolled
edges on the outside.
And now Iím just going to start knitting across, and weíre going to join them all
together on this first row.
Iím going to maintain this icord edging, so Iíll slip three with yarn in back, and
knit up across this piece.
I have to hold this yarn a little bit differently, because I have a band-aid on my finger today.
Now when you get up to the end of the left front, of course you have a gap between these
two pieces.
We need to do the backwards loop cast on to cast on a few stitches before we start knitting
the back.
And to do that, you take the yarn in your left hand, with your thumb on the yarn like
this, flip it, and just slide it on to the needle.
And youíll follow your pattern to tell you how many you need to cast on.
Okay, thatís the technique.
And then you just keep knitting across these back stitches with no break.
So everythingís a little, I donít know, wobbly right now because itís not very secure,
but when you purl back across these stitches, the backwards loop cast on stitches will be
like all the rest of the stitches and not be weird like that.
So youíll knit across the back, and when you get to the gap between the back and the
front, youíll cast on more stitches here, and then continue knitting across the right
front.
And then on the purl side, from here on out, itís really easy knitting. The beginning
of every purl row youíll slip three with yarn in front to maintain the icord edging,
and then the beginning of every knit row youíll slip three with yarn in back.
And youíll just keep knitting the body until the pattern tells you to stop, until you get
to the desired length.
One thing to consider when youíre deciding on length.
Of course you want to decide on a length thatís going to be flattering on you, but this is
something that I think about.
Because this is a zippered cardigan, we are going to need to buy a standard sized zipper
to put in there.
There are videos out there telling you how to shorten a zipper to the exact size you
need it.
Iíve never done that before.
I always modify the length of the sweater ñ an inch, a half inch, whatever it needs
to be, so that a standard zipper will fit.
And, next up weíre going to learn how to do the fair isle at the bottom of the sweater.
The fair isle is going to be about an inch and three quarters long, so take that into
consideration when youíre deciding the length of the sweater, plus the extra fair isle and
your icord bind off, for your total zipper length.
Or you can just shorten your zipper, and not be as lazy as I am about it! [laughs]
Next up, is the fair isle.
The little design, the diamond pattern design at the bottom of the sweater is knit using
a technique called fair isle.
Where we use two different colors at once to create a pattern.
And there are a couple of tricks to make it look really good.
Letís take a look at the fair isle first.
In my little sample here, the two colors arenít really high contrast, I hope you can see the
pattern okay.
The colors that I chose for the womanís size sweater is a higher contrast.
But this is what it looks like.
The blue diamonds are just knit in with the grey work.
And we have what are called ìfloatsî on the back of the work.
Whatever color weíre not using just floats behind the other color that appears on the
front.
So I have a little sample knit up here.
This is what the patternís going to look like, your chart.
And the way to read this chart, is skip the very bottom row here, every right side row
youíre going to read this way. Meaning every knit row.
And every purl row youíre going to read from left to right. And thatís how youíre going
to maintain the pattern.
So weíre going to start out ñ well, Iíve already knit a little of the pattern.
Youíll start out with main color, main color, main color, main color, then the contrasting
color, and just follow the blocks, each block being a stitch.
And once you get the first row done youíll have the hang of it, no problem.
And here is my little sample, Iíve already ñ whoops, let me get this back in the shot.
Iíve already worked up through this row, which was a wrong side row.
Whoops- this way. Now Iím ready to work this way on a right side row.
And letís take a look.
You will, of course, be maintaining the icord edge.
So youíll be slipping three with yarn in back, and then knitting one, so Iíll do it,
too.
And then my pattern has me knit a gray, knit five blues, and now Iím going to go back to gray. And this is where the technique
comes in.
Iím going to put my needle in like Iím ready to knit with the blue, but drop the blue yarn.
Spread the stitches out on the right needle because we want this float ñ this gray float
thatís going to be coming across all these stitches to be nice and loose.
So by stretching those out you make it a little longer so it will be nice and loose.
So Iím going to knit a gray, drop the gray yarn.
And this float is much shorter, so you donít have to be so careful about it. Itís only
going behind one stitch.
Knit five blue again.
Iím going back to gray, so I put my needle in, stretch the stitches on the right needle
out, drop the blue, grab the gray, float it across, and knit with it.
Drop that.
Now one other thing Iíve been doing here is, Iíve been careful to always keep the
blue yarn on top and the gray yarn on bottom.
I always grab the blue from the top and the gray from the bottom.
And thatís because whatever color is on top is going to be the dominant color in the pattern.
And we want the blue to really stand out against the gray background, so Iím going to keep
this on top.
Whichever you do, just make sure youíre consistent with it.
Okay. That was my last five.
So now the rest of these are all gray.
And this is a little trick here.
Iíve never seen it done any other way ñ I made this up to keep my stitches looking
even.
Iím going to go back to gray now, so I stretched out my stitches and did this.
Iím already considering the following row.
My blue is coming out of here. And my next blue one, coming back the other way, is going
to be here.
So, the yarnís going to be pulling from the wrong direction, the yarnís going to twist
this stitch on the next row.
Let me just show you how to fix it.
I knit one gray, and before I knit the next gray, Iím going to wrap the gray over the
blue.
Just to grab the blue over this way so that the yarn will be pulling from this way on
the next row.
If this is difficult to understand, if you donít do it youíll see the problems that
it causes, and then youíll understand! [laughs]
So Iím just lopping the gray over the blue ñ without my first finger here, with the
band-aid, and Iíll knit across to the end, and Iíll show you what that looks like on
the other side of the work.
I just grabbed this blue yarn, one stitch over.
It doesnít show anything on front, it just looped over in the back. I call it ìcatching
the yarnî.
And then weíre going to maintain the icord border on this side.
And continue the pattern in fair isle, doing the same thing we did on the knit side.
Meaning, when I switch colors, I spread these stitches wide on the right needle and work
that color.
Anyway, you get the idea.
The pattern looks really cool. I love knitting fair isle.
Next up, weíre going to learn how to do the icord bind off for the bottom of the sweater
and the bottom of the sleeves.
Weíve been working an icord border on the front of the sweater where the zipper goes.
And now weíre going to continue the icord border in the bind off on the bottom of the
sweater, and weíre going to make it so that it goes seamlessly right around a corner.
Let me show you what it looks like on the sample piece.
Here we are. I can block this out better.
This one is more rounded than this one, but I can block that out to make those match a
little better.
This is the icord border, weíre going to slide right into the bind off with icord,
like this.
And Iím going to show you how to do it.
Hereís my sample piece.
To work the icord border, itís a little slower than a normal bind off.
You knit two, you slip the next stitch as if to knit, then you knit one, the stitch
that you slipped ñ the second one in, you bind it off over that last stitch, or slip
it over, then slide those three stitches back on to the left needle.
And that was the pattern.
So itís knit two, slip as if to knit, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, and slide
those three stitches back on to the left needle.
And when you have the icord border running this way, it will slide right into the icord
border at the bottom, in the bind off.
The icord bind off for the bottom of the sleeves is going to be the same technique, the only
difference is youíre going to cast on three stitches, using the backwards loop cast on
method before you get started.
Since we donít really want a rounded corner on the sleeves. We want it to be flat on that
part.
Next up weíre going to talk about the sleeves.
Iím sure you did fine on the first part of the sleeves by yourself without a video, because
it ends up being just like knitting the back.
The numbers are a little bit different, but the pattern of increasing, casting on and
increasing, is just like you did for the back.
No icord edging or anything.
Now weíre at a point in the sleeve where we want to start knitting it in the round.
Let me show you what Iím talking about.
This is a full sized sample.
The other samples that Iíve been showing you are itty bitty sized, but I did this in
full size, so that we can use the 16î circular needle to do this.
Now your piece looks like this, a big flat piece of knitting.
And back to the tiny sample, we want it to look like this, where itís not connected
here, and then the rest of it is all joined in the round, like a normal sleeve.
So Iíve knit up to the point where itís time for me to join in the round.
The first thing Iím going to do is to use the backwards loop cast on to get some stitches
cast on here.
And this is just like we did under the arms when we joined the pieces of the body.
Youíll follow your directions, youíll follow the pattern for the number that you need to
cast on.
And then knit these stitches.
And backwards loop cast on stitches are trickier to knit than normal stitches, because they
want to tighten up on you.
Youíll follow your directions, because I also tell you where to place a marker.
Youíre going to knit a few in on those cast on stitches and place your marker.
Okay, now this is my last cast on stitch, so this should start going faster now.
Weíre not going to be doing any purling anymore. The right side of the work is going to be
facing us all the time.
And we have quite a few stitches here, so we can speed through this part.
Okay, Iím just coming up to the end of my row. I knit the last one in the row.
Now, instead of turning the work and working a purl side, weíre going to keep working
across, which will join this in the round.
Now when I use the working yarn over here to knit this stitch, there we are.
Slip the marker, and just keep going.
Now it is joined in the round, and youíll knit the rest of the sleeve as a tube.
Youíll want to follow your pattern, because there are some decreases as the arm goes down,
it decreases down, and then we have another icord bind off at the end of the sleeve.
And next up we are going to talk about seaming the sleeves into the body of the sweater.
Now that all the pieces are finished, itís time to seam the whole thing together.
You have finished knitting two sleeves and theyíre ready to seam into body of the sweater.
Letís get right into it.
On the little sample piece here, I already have one sleeve seamed in.
And one is still detached.
This is going to be really nice, easy seaming.
Because this is going to line up one-for-one.
Itís not like putting a sleeve cap in where youíre matching up rows to stitches.
This is going to match up really nicely.
I like to use these little clippie markers like this. You can also use uncoiled safety
pins, whatever you like.
I like to match things up before I seam.
I suppose itís like putting pins in when youíre sewing.
Okay.
This is such a tiny little sweater, Iím just going to put four clips in! [laughs] Iím
sure I used more than that when I did the womanís sweater.
Okay then I need my tapestry needle, and some yarn, you can pick either the main color or
the contrasting color.
The yarnís not going to show.
Now Iím going to have to actually take out one of these clips.
Iím going to start up here at the collar edge, and the first thing Iíll do is attach
my yarn to one side.
Now you can see here, these are the stitches going up to ñ this is the cast on row.
You want to pick up the last stitch of the cast on row here.
Just go into the corner, pull it through, leave yourself enough of a tail to weave in
later, and go through the same hole again.
Whoops, my yarn split and got pulled through twice.
Okay. Letís try that again.
Leaving myself a tail, going back up into the same hole again, holding on to the tail
end this time, thatís good.
Now Iím going to go into the last stitch of the cast on row over here on the sleeve.
Just go through there, and thatís good enough.
Now the two pieces are attached, at the very edge row here.
Now weíre going to use the mattress stitch to do this, but weíre going to be doing it
at an angle, which really isnít going to make much difference.
You want to make sure youíre looking at the very edge stitch.
The Vs at the very edge, you want to skip that stitch, and look at the column between
ñ look at the stitches between the first column and the second column.
And youíll see a bunch of ladders in there.
You want to pick up the first two ladders that you see over here on this side, pull
your needle through, donít pull it tight yet.
Jump over to this side, find the edge stitch, skip that first column, you donít have to
pull the stitches apart like this, but I like to do it to get started.
Because the first two you really want to get it right.
There is my column, Iím going to pick up two ladders over here, and donít pull it
tight yet.
Iím going to jump back over to the gray side. Iím going to go ñ this is where it gets
easier. Because I can go in where I came out last time, pick up two ladders, and then jump
over to the other side, go in where I came out last time, pick up two ladders.
And now itís easy.
Especially on the gray part. Itís easier to see the stitches than it is on the blue.
Pick up two ladders, go in where I came out.
Now, there are a couple reasons that I leave it loose.
One is that itís easier to see where your last stitch came out of, so you know exactly
where to go in for the next one on each side.
The other is that I love this magic moment right here.
Ta-da! [laughs]
I love leaving at least an inch or so, so that I can see how beautiful it is, all at
once.
And then when I go, I usually leave about that much and tighten it up, then I loosen
it up the last stitch so itís easy to see where Iím going in to pick up the next ones.
And just keep going, and it will match up one-for-one.
I usually seam to the bottom here, then go back to the top and go down, and have it meet
under the arm.
It doesnít matter. You can keep going all the way around if you like.
Thatís how to seam the sleeves in. Next up weíre going to talk about the collar.
We are almost there, weíre just doing the finishing work now and itís time to work
the collar.
I have the full sized sweater here, let me show you.
Of the finished collar. And weíre going to pick up stitches around the neckline, and
then knit the collar right on.
And this is a collar that uses short row wrap and turns to create this edge, and then, then
we have a row where we actually knit on the purl side that creates a fold, and we knit
the other side.
And then the very last thing we do is we seam that side down on the inside of the sweater,
and it, the two sides are exactly the same.
So it folds over very neatly and seams right in.
First, to pick up and knit. Iím going to need some yarn for this.
Hereís my little sample.
And Iím going to start here on the ñ what is this? This is the right front of the sweater.
And what youíre going to do is youíre going to look at the cast on row here, and itís
a series of Vs, right?
Youíre going to put your needle in to the first V that you see, both legs of the V,
and then take your yarn, and just wrap the needle.
This is like knitting with one needle.
You want to leave yourself about a six inch tail.
Wrap it and pull it through.
Go into the next V.
Wrap the needle and pull it through.
Whoops. Lots of tension on the working yarn will make it easier to ñ I canít do it!
Wrap it and pull it through! Iím snagging something else. There we go.
Into the next one, wrap it and pull it through.
And youíll follow your directions, but weíre picking up just about one stitch for every
cast on, of the two fronts, back, and sleeves.
Itís slightly fewer than the cast on number, because some of the stitches got eaten up
in the seams.
But this is what it will look like.
You can do this on circular needles or on double pointed needles.
And youíll follow your pattern. Weíll pick them all up, and then weíre going to start
doing short rows.
I have a different sample here to really show this.
This is going to show you the technique of wrapping and turning, and picking up wraps.
Youíll follow your pattern up to the point where it tells you to do a wrap.
And Iím going to do one here.
And to do a wrap on the knit side, weíre going to yarn forward, slip the stitch from
the left needle to the right, yarn back, and slide that stitch back over to the left needle,
and turn the work.
Now weíre ready to work a wrong side row.
One more time.
On the knit side, you yarn forward, slip the stitch from the left needle to the right,
yarn back, slip it back over, and turn the work.
Then youíll follow your pattern and purl up to the next wrap you need to do.
Here we are.
So on the purl side Iím going to yarn back, slip the stitch, yarn forward, slip it back
over to the left needle and turn the work.
Let me undo that and show you one more time.
On the purl side we yarn back, slip, yarn forward, slip, and turn the work.
And what that does is it creates a little wrap around the bottom of the stitch.
Now to pick up those wraps, your pattern is going to tell you to pick up those wraps.
You knit up to the first wrap, and here I am.
I can see the wrap right here.
Iím going to pick up that wrap, and without twisting it, Iím going to put it up on the
left needle.
And knit that wrap together with the stitch.
Let me show you again.
Here I am at another wrap.
Pick up that wrap, and without twisting it, just put it up on the left needle, and knit
it together.
Iím going to show you how to do the same on the purl side.
If I can remember where I put the wraps! There we go.
I can see the wrap easily from the purl side, but I actually want to pay attention on the
knit side.
So I want to turn my work a little bit like this.
I want to pick up the wrap on the knit side.
Because we want to keep the knit side of the work looking the nicest.
So thereís my wrap Iím going to pick it up without twisting it, and purl it together
with that stitch.
Iíll show you that again.
Hereís my wrap, Iím going to flip the work to the knit side, pick up the wrap, put it
up on the needle with that stitch, and purl it together.
Youíll follow your pattern, but those are the techniques youíll need to know to be
able to work the collar.
Other than that, you have to seam the collar down after you fold it on the inside, there
is no special seam needed for that.
You can actually just kind of whip stitch it together, thatís what I did.
Just make sure itís straight when youíre seaming it down.
Next up, final step, the zipper!
Weíre finally ready for the zipper.
And putting a zipper in a sweater can be difficult.
Iíve tried it several different ways, Iíve tried hand stitching it in and machine stitching
it in.
It seems like every time I do I end up getting puckering, and, or, itís just not quite right.
Itís uneven, whatever.
But Iíve found a way to do it that actually makes the zipper another knitted piece. So
it fits really well into the rest of the work.
I learned this from Interweave Knits magazine, Iíve modified it a little bit, and this is
the way that Iím going to put zippers into all my work from here on out.
Letís take a look.
For this youíll need this little tool called a knit picker. Let me put it on a black background
here.
Itís like a tiny latch hook.
Itís a little hook, and it has this latch on it.
And weíll get to be using that here in just a second.
Youíll also need a zipper. Youíll need a separating zipper.
And this oneís in black. And thatís not ideal for me, but I couldnít find one in
the right size.
So to get this all lined up, weíre going to take a look at the inside of the sweater,
and the purl bumps on the inside.
And this is hard to see, so Iím going to show you another sample.
Weíre going to be looking at how these purl bumps, the distance between these purl bumps
in a single column.
So letís look at something bigger and easier to see.
These are much easier to see. This is what Iím talking about, how these line up exactly.
Now the reason that weíre doing this is weíre going to make our own ruler.
You can do the row gauge and figure out the math and figure out how to do it with the
ruler, I donít like doing it that way. I like making my own ruler.
So Iím lining up a piece of paper, and Iím going to put little marks on the sheet that
line up with the purl bumps.
Okay.
And Iím going to jump over here to the zipper.
Iím going to mark on the zipper exactly where these line up.
Because I have a black zipper - I would normally use a sharpie or something, but sharpie doesnít
show up, so Iím using a white colored pencil.
Of course Iíd do that all the way up.
Now here comes the fun part.
You take your knit picker.
You put it into the first spot you marked, take your yarn. I would actually want to use
gray yarn, but this is what I have here.
Loop it around the hook, close up the latch, and pull it through.
Now you have a loop there, you want to take a needle, take the needle I have a dpn here,
the same size as what I used to knit the sweater with, and tighten up that loop.
Weíre just doing that for size.
Take the needle out, grab the knit picker again.
Open the latch, put it through that loop, poke it down into the next spot that you marked.
Grab the yarn, close the latch, pull it through, and pull it through the last loop you have.
Put your needle in there to tighten it up.
Whoops, Iím splitting the yarn.
And make sure that you really tighten it up, so that itís tight on the back as well.
In through the loop, open the latch ñ in through the loop, down into the next one,
wrap it, close the latch, pull it through both.
Needle in there, tighten it up, make sure itís tight on the back.
And Iíll do one more.
Okay.
You can see what we have here.
Itís a series of Vs, just like a cast on row or a bind off row.
Thatís going to make it really easy to seam into the sweater.
And what I mean by that, is youíre going to need your tapestry needle again.
And youíll have finished this all the way up, of course.
You can separate the zipper and do this in pieces.
Now because we measured using these purl bumps, you can pick up two of these purl bumps, and
then go through one V of the zipper.
And you know thatís not going to pucker, you know thatís a match, because you made
your ruler out of these purl bumps!
Go into the next two purl bumps, or under them I mean.
And then go under the next V.
And tighten that up.
Under the next two.
It gets tricky through the fair isle part, so pay attention to what youíre doing.
And then grab that over here.
Thatís it. Youíll tighten that up ñ youíll want to, I didnít pay attention to where
I was placing this.
Youíll actually want to pick up the bumps closer to this so just a tiny bit of the zipper
is exposed there.
All the way up, and the other side, of course.
Once you get the zipper put in, the sweater is finished, aside from blocking.
Youíre going to want to really block out the zipper part and the fair isle part, because
those are going to benefit the most from being washed and laid out flat to dry.
Good luck.
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