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Hi it’s Steve from PartSelect. Today we are going to show you how to change the door
lock latch on your washer and it’s a really easy job. All we’re going to need is a flat
blade screwdriver and a #20 Torx bit and a ¼-inch nut driver. Let me show you how we
do it.
Now before we begin this repair, we’ll start by disconnecting the power so simply pull
the plug and we’ll also want to pull the washer far enough forward that we can tilt
it back a bit. We will need to remove the bottom access panel to gain access to two
screws securing the front panel, to access those bottom screws it’s easier if we tilt
it back and just put a couple of 2X4 blocks under the front legs. A ¼-inch hex head screws,
and we’ll just remove the two outside ones first, and then leave the one in the middle,
and you may want to maintain a little bit of upward pressure on that panel while you
remove the last screw, and then tilt it out slightly and let it drop down, and you will
see that there are two locating pins that engage slots in the bottom of the front panel.
So we will set the access panel aside, and we can now see the two ¼-inch screws on the
bottom, so we’ll move both of those. Now next we’re going to remove the soap box
so just pull it forward and there is a little locking tab at the back, we’ll just depress
that, and that will allow us to pull it completely out of the washer and we’ll set that aside.
Now next we are going to remove the #20 Torx screw that is in this opening on the left
side here, so take that screw completely out and then with a flat blade, we’re going
to unhinge the top clips across the control panel to disengage them, so just gently apply
the screwdriver in there without damaging the finish, and disengage those locking tabs
and we can lift the panel out, and we’ll see the tabs across the top here, set that
just up on top of the washer, and we don’t need to remove these two screws, you can loosen
them if you wish but they don’t need to come out. We just want to make sure that when
we pull this bottom panel out that when it tilts it doesn’t damage the console.
So next we’re going to open the door, and we’re going to remove the two #20 Torx screws
that secure the door latch to the front panel, and these screws are slightly different than
the one that we took out of the console, and that they have a washer built into the screw
itself, so make sure we don’t mix those up. Now next we’re going to loosen the door
boot on the right hand side, and you may be able to grab it enough to pull it away, but
if you can’t just take a flat blade screwdriver and very carefully going behind the wire retaining
ring, pull that out enough that we can roll the bellows right off of the front panel,
and you can set that spring clamp aside and just pull the boot out enough there that we
can access the door lock.
Now while pulling gently out on the front panel at the bottom, we will be able to unhook
the door latch assembly from its holder, and there should be enough harness there to drop
it out and pull it out through the side of the cabinet. Now there is a shield across
that top and we just need to pull out on the locking tab on the side of that, now we can
disconnect the two wire harnesses, and then a small one at the very back has a little
locking tab that we just needed to depress slightly, and we can pull that off our locking
tabs on both of them, so simply depress the locking tabs, pull the harness out, tilt it
up and now we can discard the door latch. We will reconnect all of the harnesses, make
sure they lock into place, and lock the shield across the top back into position, and now
when we put this back into position there are two hooks on the side of that door latch
that will fit into a holder that is attached to the edge of the cabinet, so you need to
pull that front panel out enough, so that we can see where those hooks are and engage
them, and just slide down into that holder and that will keep it in position, until we
can line up the opening and put the screws in.
So next we will reinstall the #20 Torx screws and just grasp that center portion, line it
up, we get both screws started and then we can tighten them, make sure the door switch
fits properly in the opening and it isn’t binding. Next we will reinstall the door bellows,
and we need to roll that over this lip on the front panel to make sure it fits in nice
and snug, and once you see that it is sitting flush we can now put the spring clamp back
on, we will need to make sure that hooks on the end of the springs are properly seated
in the clamp itself, then we’re going to position that spring at about 6 o’ clock
position, roll it on as far as it will go without any tension on it, and then with our
flat blade screwdriver we’re going to fit the end of the blade into that opening on
the clamp, and then we’re going to pull it towards this to stretch the spring, and
that will allow us to roll that clamp down into position, and then just check to make
sure that we haven’t missed any spots, and that it’s laying flat all the way around.
We will next put the screws back in the bottom of the front panel, and if you’ve loosened
the two screws at the top, we will need to tighten those at this point. Next we can put
the console back into position, there is a locating tab on the very end that fits into
that slot, so we need to make sure that we engage that properly first, make sure it snaps
in completely across the top, and we will replace the Torx screw on the end, replace
the soap box, and just make sure that the two rails fit into the appropriate slides,
check to make sure that it is engaged properly.
We will next put the lower access panel on, we want to make sure that we engage those
two locating tabs properly, I find it best to put the center screw in first, so keep
an upwards pressure on that panel, then replace the two outside screws. Next we can tilt the
washer back and remove the temporary blocks, we are ready to reconnect the power and our
repair is complete.
I told you it was an easy job, thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.