Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
Good day, everyone.
We made mortise and tennon joint in the last two episodes.
In the next few episodes, we will make several traditionall Chinese woodworking tools.
There are too many traditional tools, like groove plane, edge plane or shoulder plane.
We will make an edge plane using this stock this time.
It will take about ten minutes, very easy.
I will demostrate how to make it and how to use the tool.
This is a normal stock material.
No matter how normal it is, I will teach you the way of making.
This is the guide block.
Let's draw the lines first.
For the blade, I will use this well used hand plane blade.
I sliced it apart and grind it for the edge plane blade.
This is half of the hand plane blade.
Place the blade here to check the size.
Let's draw the lines first.
There is no standard rules to make an edge plane.
Currently no line exists on the stock.
We will make an edge plane with bottom edge guide.
Let's find approximate the middle point.
The stock is about 24cm.
The middle point locates at 12cm position.
It doesn't matter if the blade slot is located a little to the front or rear.
This will be the blade slot.
Check the blade thickness.
It is about 3mm thick.
It will be enough to make the slot 4mm wide.
And draw the straight line.
I am left handed so a left handed plane suits me.
But most people are right handed, so I will make a right handed one.
The blade angle is 45 degrees.
The saying is one inch by one inch, no need for questions.
We need another line here.
The depth of blade bed is the blade thickness plus a wedge, and this size should be enough.
Draw the line here and connect it to the bottom.
All the lines are done.
After that, you will need to check the blade width.
Whatever the width is, you simply align it and draw the line against the blade.
This is the blade width and copy it over to the reverse side.
That will match the blade width.
It is not hard.
Let's prepare the stock and later we will see how to use it.
Use a small vise here to avoid holes in my bench.
Clamp the stock on and cut the slot for the blade.
This is a clock spring saw.
Let's cut from the 45 degree line.
Hand work won't be very accurate.
Slant your saw a little aside for the cut.
How much should you slant depends solely on your experience.
Later I will explain why we slant a little bit.
Now let's check how deep for the blade width.
Don't saw too much or too shallow, otherwise you will need to grind the blade.
Leave a proper sized gap.
The other cut is straight down.
If you are not a master of saw, a slant cut is also acceptable.
This stock is hardwood of rose wood.
This is about it and the sawing is finished.
Let's put aside the saw and we will chisel it.
Be confident about chiselling it out as it is easy.
After that we will use the detail chisel to polish it.
The blade is a little higher and we will flatten the inside.
Flush with the blade edge and we don't need to grind the blade.
This is so called hand working.
Let's check again and still a little high.
Use a saw to touch up the corner.
Almost there.
Check that the mouth inclines a little bit.
It is the trick to make one edge straight and the other inclined on purpose.
When the shaving comes out you will understand the reason.
It doesn't work if the mouse is straight.
Now let's make the hole.
There is no standard way to carve the hole.
It is roughly a circle.
You decide the size of the circle.
Here is a round chisel and you can also use a normal chisel.
Carve like this for several strikes and make the hole.
This kind of tool making has passed over for many years.
It has been well tested.
Polish the edge of the saw cut with a chisel.
Make it nice and clean.
The inside surface still needs a little more trimming.
And a little more work on the rear side to fit the blade.
That is it.
Let's grind this old blade to flush with the mouth edge.
It is almost finished and this stock piece will serve as a guide at the bottom.
And you can adjust its position.
Let's clamp them together and drill the holes for the 6mm screws.
Roughly mark the positions and draw a closed line for chiselling.
Use a puncher to punch the holes for drilling.
Clamp them together with rear edge flushed.
The guild block is longer and we will cut it later.
Let's get the drill and a 6mm bit.
We should use the drill press for it.
Try to drill perpendicularly.
Match the screw length.
Now drill the other end of two slots.
After that, we connect the holes for chiselling the slots to move the screw around.
We will use the chisel to cut the slot here.
Don't make the slot too tight for the screws.
For skills like this, you learned one and you learned all.
This will do. It is through.
A small slot will make the screws hard to move, while a large one will make the guide block loose.
A file can further polish it.
Now the other slot.
A cope saw will also do but I don't bother it.
This is a screw with squared nut.
Transfer the lines to the side edge and measure the screw length for the nut position.
Find a small chisel and make a slot to put the nut in.
Use this small chisel to make the slot deep enough.
Now the other nut slot.
Make the slot just about the size for your nut.
Use the drill to clean up the chips.
Put the screw in and check the fit and adjust if needed.
Looks like the hole is not deep enough.
This will do and let's put the nut in.
Use the puncher to push the nut to the right position.
Let's try. The nut is not deep enough.
I will need a screw driver or a small steel chip to push it in because the hole is not deep enough.