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I DON'T KNOW SOMETIMES
WHAT IT IS EXACTLY THAT I DO FOR A LIVING.
I GO PLACES, I SPEND ABOUT A WEEK OR SO,
I EAT AND DRINK A LOT.
BUT SOMETIMES, ONCE IN A REALLY LONG WHILE,
I FIND MYSELF THRILLED AND SURPRISED TO DISCOVER
THAT A PLACE IS SO MUCH BETTER
THAN YOU COULD EVER HAVE IMAGINED.
WHO WOULD'VE GUESSED?
COLOMBIA -- FOOD CAPITAL, FUN AS HELL.
FROM WORST TO ONE OF THE BEST
IN WHAT SEEMS LIKE THE BLINK OF AN EYE.
OKAY, BYE, GUYS.
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪
I WRITE.
I TRAVEL.
I EAT.
AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH ♪
♪ YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
Man: ...THE FOURTH LEFTIST COLOMBIAN LEADER TO BE ASSASSINATED
IN JUST A WEEK.
Woman: CAR BOMB EXPLODED IN A MEDELLíN PARKING LOT.
Man #2: ANGRY PROTESTERS LIT FIRES IN THE STREETS
AND SET CARS ABLAZE.
Man: #3: COLOMBIAN TROOPS AMASS IN THE JUNGLE
NEAR THE VILLAGE OF PUERTO TRIUNFO.
Woman: LAST DRUGS WAR LEFT HUNDREDS DEAD.
DRUGS, VIOLENCE, KIDNAPPING.
YOU'VE READ THE PAPERS AND SEEN THE NEWS.
NOT TOO LONG AGO,
THIS WAS A PRETTY ACCURATE DEPICTION OF COLOMBIA.
BUT THE SIGHTS, SOUNDS, AND PEOPLE
ARE TELLING A DIFFERENT KIND OF STORY THESE DAYS.
ALTHOUGH FAR FROM PERFECT,
COLOMBIANS ARE TAKING BACK THEIR COUNTRY
AND ARE, IN EXCITING NEW WAYS, CELEBRATING THEIR CULTURE,
THEIR TRADITIONS, AND THEIR FOOD.
VAMOS PA' ALLá, PA' ALLá.
IT'S ALMOST LUDICROUS THAT THIS PLACE EXISTS
AND THAT EVERYBODY DOESN'T WANT TO LIVE HERE.
IN THE SPACE OF JUST 10 YEARS,
THE MAJOR DRUG CARTELS AND PARAMILITARY GROUPS
HAVE BEEN LARGELY BEATEN BACK
OR QUIETLY FADED INTO THE BACKGROUND.
IT WAS EVERYTHING I DIDN'T EXPECT COLOMBIA TO BE
FROM WHAT WE'VE BEEN READING AND HEARING ABOUT.
THESE ARE TRULY HISTORIC TIMES FOR COLOMBIA,
WHERE YOU CAN SEE, RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOUR EYES,
A REMARKABLE TRANSFORMATION GOING ON.
CARTAGENA IS AN EASY INTRODUCTION
TO WHAT'S GREAT ABOUT THIS COUNTRY.
EVERYTHING AND EVERYBODY SEEMS TO BE A DIFFERENT COLOR.
INDIGENOUS AMERINDIAN, SPANISH, AND AFRO-CARIBBEAN INFLUENCES
MIX AND MATCH TO MAKE THIS A UNIQUELY DIVERSE
AND EXCITING COLLISION OF FLAVORS.
AND IT'S THE BEST THING ABOUT IT.
THIS PLACE, AS YOU'LL SEE, IS REALLY SOMETHING SPECIAL.
IF INDEED IT'S TRUE THAT WHEN SOMEONE COOKS FOR YOU,
THEY'RE TELLING YOU ABOUT THEMSELVES...
PRUEBE. MUY SABROSO.
...THEN CARTAGENA SPEAKS WITH MANY VOICES.
THIS CEVICHE IS SIERRA GUAHO FROM THE NORTH OF COLOMBIA.
NICE.
JORGE ESCANDON IS THE CHEF/OWNER
OF LA CEVICHERIA.
AND THIS IS THE OCTOPUS WITH THE CARUSO SAUCE.
CARUSO SAUCE? WHAT IS THAT?
THIS IS LIKE A FRUIT JUICE. IT'S VERY REFRESHING.
YOU LIKE IT?
YOU KNOW, IT'S SWEET.
WOW, THAT'S REALLY GOOD.
THIS SAUCE HERE AND SOME OF THE CITRUS HERE,
I HAVEN'T TASTED THIS BEFORE.
THIS IS REALLY GOOD.
JORGE IS PIONEERING THE USE OF DECIDEDLY EXOTIC INGREDIENTS --
PAN-CARIBBEAN FLAVORS,
FRUITS LIKE CARUSO, CACHUBA, AND MANDARIN...
THIS IS LANGOSTINOS WITH A CUBAN SAUCE.
...A PARTICULAR MIX
THAT SETS CARTAGENA APART FROM THE REST OF THE COUNTRY.
NICE.
THE COLORS ARE AMAZING. I LOVE THAT.
DAMN, THAT'S GOOD.
I LOVE THAT SWEET, SPICY, LITTLE BIT OF SOUR.
AND THAT ORANGE TASTE IS REALLY NICE.
TEN YEARS AGO,
NOBODY CARES ABOUT COLOMBIAN FOOD.
SURE.
THERE ARE A LOT OF PEOPLE THAT ARE DOING GOOD THINGS.
THIS IS REALLY GOOD, MAN.
WITH TIME, I THINK THERE'S GONNA BE CHANGE.
IT'S GROWING, YES.
THE BEGINNING OF SOMETHING BIG.
TO SEE ALL THIS INSPIRATION AT ITS SOURCE,
WE, OF COURSE, HIT THE CENTRAL MARKET.
YOU SHOP HERE EVERY DAY?
ALMOST THREE OR FOUR TIMES IN A WEEK.
WHAT DO YOU USE FOR YOUR CEVICHERIA?
WHAT KIND OF FISH?
RED SNAPPER, SEA BASS, GROUPER.
A SORTO --
A SEEMINGLY INDEPENDENT CITY-STATE WITHIN A CITY...
ANOTHER WORLD,
FOR A LOOK AT A SEEMINGLY ENDLESS VARIETY
OF SEA CREATURES.
Escandon: THIS IS PERCULA.
THIS IS SIERRA.
YES, YES, YES.
THIS IS SQUID. PATA DE BURRO.
DONKEY FOOT.
YEAH.
THIS IS VERY COMMON, TOO. IT'S SáBALO.
RED SNAPPER.
...AND BARELY A REFRIGERATION UNIT IN SIGHT.
HEY! ¿QUé PASA?
FOOD IS A PREOCCUPATION RIVALED ONLY BY THE NATIONAL SPORT.
OYE, 5-0 YA PASó. 5-0 YA PASó.
SOCCER, UNSURPRISINGLY,
IS PRACTICALLY A RELIGION IN COLOMBIA.
PREPARARSE PARA EL MUNDIAL AHORA.
AND FOR SOME REASON, THE GUYS HERE
HAVE TAKEN TO CALLING JORGE "THE ARGENTINE."
THEY ARE CRAZY.
YOU KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO?
YOU ACTUALLY HAVE TO GET AN ARGENTINA SHIRT AND WEAR IT IN.
THAT'LL [BLEEP] THEM UP.
IT'S AN EXTRAVAGANZA -- CAN I USE THAT WORD? --
A CORNUCOPIA, A RAINBOW OF FRUITS,
MOST OF WHICH I'VE NEVER EVEN HEARD OF.
MUY BUENO.
THE SMELL IS HEAVY AND SWEET.
MM-HMM.
MANGO, MANGO, MANGO, MANGO.
FIVE TYPES OF MANGOS, FOUR KINDS OF ORANGES,
THREE KINDS OF CLEMENTINAS,
LIMóN, TORONJA, LIME, POMELO.
THIS VERY SPECIAL.
LIKE A MANDARIN MIXED WITH LIMóN.
VERY TART.
TRY THIS.
WHAT DO YOU CALL IT?
MMM.
CIAMITO. THAT'S A PLEASURE TO EAT.
MAN, THIS IS NICE.
VERY LIKE A CUSTARD APPLE.
THIS IS REALLY SOMETHING SPECIAL.
I COULD SPEND ALL DAY HERE, OR AT LEAST A LITTLE LONGER,
BUT JORGE TELLS ME THAT YOU HAVEN'T REALLY TASTED THE MARKET
WITHOUT VISITING SOMEONE SPECIAL.
OKAY, LET'S GO TO CECILIA'S.
OKAY.
THAT'S IF WE CAN FIND IT.
PARA ALLá.
¿ABAJO? ¿SEGURO?
STALL UPON STALL, A MAZE, A LABYRINTH,
WHICH MANY OF THE ESTIMATED 7,500 WORKERS RARELY LEAVE.
Bourdain: IT'S BIGGER THAN IT LOOKS.
SURE. COME ON, TONY.
DON'T GET LOST.
[ GOBBLES ]
OIGA.
EL RESTAURANTE DE CECILIA DONDE VENDE ROSITOS --
BUENO.
YEAH, YEAH, YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.
IT'S NOT EASY, YOU KNOW?
I KNOW THIS MARKET. I COME THREE TIMES IN A WEEK.
I ALWAYS GET LOST.
[ MEOWS ]
WHAT WE'RE LOOKING FOR DEEP IN THE MARKET
IS SOMEPLACE GOOD TO EAT --
A JOINT WHERE MARKET WORKERS CAN GRAB A BITE OR MANY BITES.
YOU KNOW, IF IT'S A LITTLE DIFFICULT TO FIND YOU,
SOMETIMES PEOPLE LIKE THAT.
[ SIZZLING ]
THIS IS ALIVE, YOU KNOW?
SURE, SURE, SURE.
THIS IS A SPECIAL PLACE.
I THINK WE ARE CLOSE.
CECILIA. HOLA, MI AMOR.
¿QUé TIENES HOY?
FINALLY, THE PROMISED LAND. CECILIA'S SPECIALS OF THE DAY.
SO, THIS IS SEAFOOD RICE, CHICKEN, FISH.
MAN, IT LOOKS GOOD. IT SMELLS GOOD.
WHAT IS IT? IT'S TURTLE?
TURTLE, YES.
WITH WHAT KIND OF EGGS? QUAIL EGG?
TURTLE EGGS?
YEARS BEFORE, WE JUST LOOK OUTSIDE, YOU KNOW,
LIKE THE FRENCH FOOD, THE SPANISH FOOD.
THAT'S REALLY INTERESTING.
NOW WE'RE LOOKING INSIDE.
WE ARE LOOKING INSIDE.
MAN, THAT'S DELICIOUS.
ONCE PLENTIFUL, CONVENIENTLY SLOW, AND EASY TO CATCH,
TURTLES HAVE BEEN A PART
OF TRADITIONAL GASTRONOMY HERE FOR CENTURIES.
WELL, THAT'S GOOD.
STEWED FOR HOURS IN COCONUT MILK
WITH TOMATO, RED PEPPER, GARLIC, ROSEMARY, AND ONION,
THESE PESKY TURTLES WON'T BE KICKING SAND
IN ANYBODY'S FACE EVER AGAIN.
OH, YEAH?
I DON'T WANT TO EAT TURTLE BECAUSE I GOT...
YES.
YEAH, BUT TURTLE'S GOOD, RIGHT?
UNFORTUNATELY, I FIND OUT LATER
THAT GAMRA HERE IS ACTUALLY, LIKE, ENDANGERED.
BUT TURTLE'S BEEN A PART OF THE INDIGENOUS CUISINE HERE
FOR SO LONG THAT,
ENDANGERED OR NOT, THEY STILL EAT IT.
MMM.
YOU KNOW, AND THEY'RE NICE AND SOFT-BOILED, TOO.
NICE AND RUNNY.
OKAY, IT LOOKS LIKE I WON'T BE HAVING THAT AGAIN.
TOO BAD, REALLY.
WELL, THAT'S ONE LESS TURTLE
WE HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT INFESTING OUR SHORES.
ATTENTION SIGMOIDO MANIACS...
THIS REMINDS ME.
I NEVER CALLED FOR MY COLONOSCOPY RESULTS.
LIKE WATCHING PEOPLE MUNCH ON CRISPY, FRIED POOP CHUTE?
THEN STAY TUNED.
NO, REALLY. I HAVE TO CALL.
CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA.
THE SLICK, MODERN BOCA GRANDE DISTRICT,
SOME OF WHICH MIGHT WELL HAVE BEEN PAID FOR
WITH YOUR 1980s-ERA EXCESSES.
YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE.
GLASS AND STEEL SCRAPE THE SKY
ALONG WHITE-SAND BEACHES OF THE RICH AND FAMOUS.
IT'S A GOOD PLACE TO WORK ON YOUR TAN
WHILE PONDERING YOUR STOCK PORTFOLIO,
MAYBE GRAB A MEAL AT A SOPHISTICATED RESTAURANT.
OR YOU CAN TAKE A SHORT BOAT TRIP ACROSS THE WATER
TO A WHOLE OTHER WORLD.
[ SPEAKS SPANISH ]
VáMONOS YA.
TIERRABOMBA, PARA ALLá, PARA EL PUEBLO.
I DON'T KNOW YOU, BUT I'M STARVING.
OH, ME TOO.
MY FRIEND JORGE WANTS TO SHOW ME A SIDE OF CARTAGENA
THAT EVEN MANY WHO'VE LIVED HERE THEIR WHOLE LIVES
HAVE NEVER SEEN.
TIERRABOMBA.
AND TIERRABOMBA MEANS SOMETHING THAT SMELLS BAD.
LAND OF THE BAD SMELL.
EXACTLY.
WELL, FOR A FISHING VILLAGE, YOU KNOW, I CAN SEE.
AN ISLAND ACCESSIBLE ONLY BY BOAT --
WATER TAXIS LIKE THIS ONE, IN FACT --
AND A TRIP THAT CAN GET KIND OF HAIRY.
IT'S A LITTLE ROUGH TODAY.
ESTAMOS EN TIERRABOMBA.
THE VILLAGE OF TIERRABOMBA --
AT FIRST BLUSH IT FEELS, AFTER ONLY A 20-MINUTE TRIP,
LIKE YOU'VE LANDED IN IN WEST AFRICA.
A DUSTY, WINDBLOWN FISHING VILLAGE --
A SOCCER FIELD, A COMMUNITY CENTER,
SIMPLE CINDER-BLOCK HOMES.
SAND AND SALT SPRAY HISS ALONG THE MAIN STREET,
STICKING TO THE CAMERA LENS AND MAKING THIS A VERY TOUGH SHOOT.
YOU GOT SOME SERIOUS WIND HERE, MAN.
HOLA.
A GUSTO.
ENCANTADO.
HE'S A FISHER AND ALSO A DIVER.
FISHING IS IN ARNUFO'S BLOOD,
HIS FAMILY HAVING LIVED HERE FOR GENERATIONS.
20 MILES FROM HERE, HE SWIMS -- HE DIVES FOR THE LOBSTER.
WITH NO TANKS, WITHOUT ANYTHING.
HE GOES 20 MILES OUT,
HE'S GOT ONE GUY ON THE BOAT OR A FEW GUYS ON A BOAT,
HE DIVES ALONE, YES?
YEAH. YEAH.
IT'S LIKE A COWBOY.
FREE-DIVING 20 FEET STRAIGHT DOWN INTO THE OCEAN
FOR LOBSTER,
HE DOESN'T USE A NET OR TRAPS.
EVERYONE HERE IN TIERRABOMBA MAKES A LIVING,
ONE WAY OR ANOTHER, FROM THE SEA.
IT'S BEEN A PRETTY GOOD DAY.
LOCALS DIVIDE UP THE CATCH,
AND ARNUFO BRINGS HIS MOM, AMELIA, SOME LOBSTERS
FOR THE SMALL EATERY SHE RUNS BY THE WATER'S EDGE.
REINA, ¿CóMO SE VA A HACER LA LANGOSTA?
IT'S THE VILLAGE'S ONLY RESTAURANT.
ALL RIGHT. HERE WE GO.
LOBSTER PARTY.
DOES HE STILL EAT LOBSTER?
Sí, CLARO.
VAMOS A COMER LANGOSTA TODOS AQUí.
GOOD STUFF.
MMM. DELICIOUS.
VERY DISTINCTIVE CARIBBEAN LOBSTER.
WHOLE DIFFERENT FLAVOR.
YEAH. I LOVE IT.
A LIMITED MENU, TO SAY THE LEAST, BUT A GOOD ONE.
FRESH SEAFOOD.
TODAY, THE CATCH IS RED SNAPPER.
TRADITIONAL CARIBBEAN PATACóN PISADO,
FRIED PLANTAIN SLICES
SLIGHTLY MASHED AND FRIED AGAIN.
[ SIZZLING ]
COCONUT RICE --
A PROUD REGULAR FEATURE EVERYWHERE AROUND HERE,
BUT PARTICULARLY GOOD AT THIS PLACE.
COCONUT SHREDDED, MASHED, AND REDUCED
SEASONED WITH SALT, BUTTER, AND SUGAR.
HERE THERE IS THE RED SNAPPER.
THE KING OF THE CARIBBEAN.
THE KING OF THE CARIBBEAN, EH?
YEAH. I LOVE RED SNAPPER.
THIS IS REALLY GOOD, MAN. MMM.
WE WERE VERY HUNGRY, HUH?
REALLY HUNGRY.
IT'S MIND-BLOWING THE DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN THIS ISOLATED POCKET
OF TRADITIONAL FISHING CULTURE AND CUISINE
AND THE JAGGED SKYLINE OF BOCA GRANDE,
THE CUTTING EDGE OF ANOTHER PLANET,
VISIBLE RIGHT OVER THERE.
IS THIS A GOOD LIFE OR A HARD LIFE?
Y QUE NACí HACIENDO ESO, Y ESO TE TIENE QUE GUSTAR.
O SEA, NO LA CAMBIO.
HE DOESN'T WANT TO CHANGE HIS LIFE.
HE LOVES WHAT HE DOES.
YOU KNOW, WHEN HE LOOKS ACROSS RIGHT OVER THERE,
DOES HE WANT ANY OF THAT?
WOULD HE WANT TO LIVE LIKE THAT?
¿TE GUSTARíA VIVIR COMO ELLOS?
NO, NO. AQUí VIVE MEJOR.
HE SAID THAT HE LIVES BETTER.
HE LIVES BETTER.
HE PREFER TO LIVE THE WAY HE LIVES.
BUENO, BRINDEMOS POR ESTO.
TWO COLOMBIAS OF MANY. SO FAR, BOTH OF THEM GOOD.
WINDING UP THE COAST
INTO COLOMBIA'S DEPARTMENT OF ANTIOQUIA
IS A TRIP THAT WAS,
ONLY FIVE YEARS AGO, CONSIDERED VERY DANGEROUS.
GUERILLAS, PARAMILITARIES, AND CARTELS
CONTROLLED MUCH OF THE COUNTRYSIDE.
BUT NOW IT'S RIDE FREE AND EAT,
SEE WHAT'S UP THERE IN THE ANDES.
THE TOWN OF SAN ANTONIO, KNOWN FAR AND WIDE
FOR ITS SOMEWHAT LEGENDARY ROADSIDE STANDS
SPECIALIZING IN DEEP-FRIED PIG PARTS --
A PERFECT RESPITE FOR THE HUNGRY TRAVELER IN NEED.
I ARRIVE AT SUNDOWN TO MEET A PAL -- JUAN JOSE.
HEY, TONY. HOW YOU DOING?
HEY, GOOD TO SEE YOU.
SO, WHAT ARE WE EATING?
IT SMELLS GOOD HERE.
THIS IS LIKE A TYPICAL COUNTRY PLACE.
THIS IS BASICALLY ALL MADE FROM PORK.
THESE ARE THE EARS OF THE PORK.
HEART, LIVER.
HERE WE HAVE CHUNCHURRIA.
THE MAIN ATTRACTION --
A SPANISH PEASANT DISH DATING BACK TO, LIKE, FOREVER.
OH, YEAH.
CHUNCHURRIA,
THE BUSINESS END OF LOWER INTESTINE,
DEEP-FRIED TILL CRISPY AND MUCH LOVED BY LOCALS.
SO THIS IS LIKE A SNACK OR A MEAL?
IT WOULD BE A SNACK.
OKAY, THIS CHUNCHURRI.
GRACIAS.
YEAH, I'M LIKING THESE. IT'S VERY SNACKY.
ALL I COULD DO WAS QUOTE THE GREAT POET WHO SAID,
"LOVE HATH PITCHED HIS TENT IN THE PLACE OF EXCREMENT."
THIS PLACE IS REALLY FAMOUS BECAUSE THIS THING HERE --
CHUNCHURRIA.
REALLY? THIS PLACE RIGHT HERE?
THIS TOWN, SAN ANTONIO PEREDA -- THIS PLACE.
[ LAUGHS ]
WHAT'S THAT -- LIKE INSIDE?
[ LAUGHS ] IT'S SOMETHING INSIDE.
OH, YEAH. NICE.
[ LAUGHTER ]
[ LAUGHS ]
SALTY, CRISPY. WHAT'S NOT TO LIKE?
[ SIZZLING ]
AND, OF COURSE, NO MEAL WOULD BE COMPLETE
WITHOUT A POWERFUL STARCH COMPONENT --
NAMELY AN AREPA, A TASTY CORNMEAL CAKE --
IN THIS CASE, TOPPED WITH QUESA FRESCA
AND DRIZZLED WITH CONDENSED MILK.
OH, THERE'S CHEESE INSIDE, TOO, HUH?
IT'S GOOD. I LIKE THE CHEESE HERE.
AND FOR DESSERT?
YEAH.
UNABLE TO RESIST THE OPPORTUNITY TO TORMENT
MY SEMI-VEGETARIAN AND FULLY SQUEAMISH PRODUCER TOM...
HE -- HE LIKES... GUSTO.
YO QUIERO PIG EAR.
THAT ONE LOOKS GOOD.
OH, GOOD. SO THEY CUT IT UP?
AND THEN THEY FRY IT. AH, GRACIAS.
THE TEXTURE'S PRETTY MUCH WHAT YOU'D EXPECT --
SOMEWHERE BETWEEN FRIED SNEAKER AND OVEN-DRIED TROJAN.
NOT THAT I'D KNOW, MIND YOU.
OH, TOM'S GONNA LOVE THIS.
TOM?
FOR SOME, I GUESS, AN ACQUIRED TASTE.
MMM.
THE FURTHER OUT IT GOES, THE BETTER IT IS.
IT'S GOOD.
I CAN'T HEAR YOU, TOM.
ANYWHERE YOU GO IN THE WORLD
WHERE THERE'S AN ENLIGHTENED FOOD CULTURE,
YOU FIND SOMEONE ON A STREET SELLING PIG PARTS AND BEER.
[ LAUGHS ] CHEERS.
CHEERS TO THAT. LOVE IT HERE.
TOM, SOME MORE EARS?
[ LAUGHTER ]
LADIES, THANK YOU. GRACIAS. GOOD STUFF.
LIKE CLICHéS? I KNOW I DO.
NEXT WE'LL TRY REAL HARD TO AVOID ALL OF THEM.
WHO IS LESS LIKELY TO SHOOT MY COW TODAY, YOU KNOW?
EXACTLY, EXACTLY.
DRIVING THROUGH THE ANDES TO THE CITY OF MEDELLíN, COLOMBIA,
SITUATED IN A LARGE VALLEY SURROUNDED BY MOUNTAINS.
YOU KNOW THE NAME FOR ALL THE WRONG REASONS.
ONCE NOT TOO LONG AGO, IT WAS THE HEADQUARTERS
OF THE WORLD'S MOST VIOLENT DRUG CARTELS.
IN 1991, MEDELLíN HAD OVER 500 HOMICIDES A MONTH.
LAST YEAR, THAT NUMBER FELL TO UNDER 30,
MAKING WASHINGTON, D.C., LOOK LIKE *** CITY BY COMPARISON.
NOW WITH BUSINESSWOMAN CAMILA,
WHO'S LIVED THROUGH MEDELLíN'S GOOD AND BAD DAYS,
THE PAST FEELS A MILLION MILES AWAY.
SO, WHERE ARE WE?
THIS IS PLAZA BOTERO.
BOTERO IS FROM MEDELLíN, ACTUALLY.
I'VE SEEN HIS WORK FOR YEARS ALL OVER THE WORLD.
IT WAS A HUGE PROJECT TO RESTORE THE CITY'S CENTER.
SEVEN YEARS AGO, IT WASN'T AS IT IS TODAY.
YOU KNOW, MEDELLíN USED TO HAVE THIS STIGMA
WITH THE MAFIA AND THE DRUG LORDS AND THE VIOLENCE,
BUT IT'S NOT LIKE THAT ANYMORE.
MEDELLíN'S RADICAL CHANGES
BEGAN TO REALLY PICK UP MOMENTUM IN 2003,
WHEN MAYOR SERGIO FAJARDO WAS ELECTED.
HE'S NOT A POLITICIAN. HE IS A COLLEGE PROFESSOR.
HIS POINT OF VIEW IS VERY DIFFERENT.
HE CONCENTRATED ON EDUCATION, CULTURE,
AND PUBLIC SERVICES FOR THE PEOPLE.
I HEARD 40% OF THE CITY BUDGET GOES TO EDUCATION NOW?
EVERY KID GOES TO SCHOOL IN MEDELLíN.
THAT KIND OF FORWARD THINKING DIDN'T STOP WITH EDUCATION.
MEDELLíN IS SURROUNDED BY MOUNTAINS.
WE HAVE THE POOR NEIGHBORHOODS THERE.
THOSE ARE THE COMUNES,
AND SINCE WE ARE NOW SAFE AND WE DON'T HAVE TO COMBAT VIOLENCE,
THEY PAY MORE ATTENTION TO PEOPLE NOW AND TO THEIR NEEDS.
AN UNBELIEVABLE, UNPRECEDENTED TRANSFORMATION
IN NEIGHBORHOODS WHERE, ONLY A FEW SHORT YEARS AGO,
EVEN THE COPS DARE NOT GO.
THE ADMINISTRATION,
THEY DIDN'T REALLY COMMIT TO INVEST THERE.
THEY WERE SCARED OF GETTING ROBBED OR KILLED.
RIGHT.
CAMILA'S HUSBAND, ANDREAS,
LIKE NEARLY EVERYONE IN MEDELLíN,
IS FIERCELY PROUD OF HIS CITY'S BRAVE NEW FACE.
THE ADMINISTRATION IS TAKING CARE OF, LIKE,
THE BASIC STUFF THEY NEED,
AND AT LEAST YOU HAVE THE CHANCE TO CHOOSE.
HERE EVERYBODY SEEMS TO BE IN AGREEMENT
THAT THINGS ARE GOING WELL.
YEAH, ONCE YOU SEE THE RESULTS,
EVERYBODY KNOWS THAT IT'S WORKING.
AND WE FEEL SATISFIED.
IT'S REALLY EXTRAORDINARY.
BUT LET US PUT ASIDE TALK OF SUCH WEIGHTY MATTERS
AND TURN OUR ATTENTIONS TO MORE PRESSING EVENTS,
LIKE LUNCH.
SO, WHERE ARE WE GOING?
WE'RE HERE. THIS IS QUEAREPARAENAMORARTE.
[ UP-TEMPO MUSIC PLAYS ]
THE STRUM OF A GUITAR, THE LOW-LEVEL DIN
OF WELL-HEELED DINERS ENJOYING THEMSELVES...
THE AROMAS OF EXOTIC FRUITS,
SLOWLY STEWING MEATS AND VEGETABLES,
SIZZLING CUTS OF BEEF WAFT FROM THE OPEN KITCHEN.
[ LAUGHTER ]
PRESIDED OVER BY THE PROPRIETOR, JULIAN ESTRADA.
ESTO LLAMAMOS CHORIZO.
I KNOW I'M GONNA LIKE THIS PLACE ALREADY.
LOOK, IT'S SO BEAUTIFUL.
COLLEGE PROFESSOR, FOOD HISTORIAN, AND CHEF,
HE TRAVELED THE COUNTRY
RESEARCHING TRADITIONAL RECIPES AND FOODWAYS,
SAVING THEM FROM EXTINCTION BY RE-CREATING THEM HERE.
SPLENDID.
♪ Y HA PODIDO... ♪
SO, WHAT'S THE NAME OF THIS RESTAURANT AGAIN?
QUEAREPARAENAMORARTE MEANS
"WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO TO MAKE YOU CALL IN LOVE WITH ME?"
THAT'S WHAT JULIAN DOES.
HE'S MAKING PEOPLE FALL IN LOVE WITH HIS FOOD.
CONSIDERO QUE EL COMENSAL COLOMBIANO, Sí,
NO CONOCE SU COCINA...
Camila: HE WANTED COLOMBIANS TO REALLY TASTE
HOW THE COLOMBIAN FOOD WAS.
HIS INTENTION IS TO RESCUE ALL THESE PRODUCTS FROM COLOMBIA
AND ALL THESE RECIPES.
ONE OF JULIAN'S PARTICULAR TRIUMPHS
IS THE VARIETY OF CHORIZO THEY DO HERE...
IT'S GOOD.
IN EVERY TOWN YOU GO, IT'S A DIFFERENT RECIPE.
...EACH ONE SOURCED
FROM SPECIFIC REGIONAL CHORIZO MAKERS.
WHICH ONE'S YOUR FAVORITE SO FAR?
IT'S A LITTLE SMOKY.
SMOKY DELICIOUS.
NO MEAL HERE CAN REALLY BE SAID TO HAVE BEGUN
WITHOUT A SHOT -- OR THREE --
OF THE INDIGENOUS BEVERAGE OF COLOMBIA, AGUARDIENTE...
AGUARDIENTE IS WHITE RUM, BASICALLY,
WITH A LITTLE ANíS IN IT.
OH, I'VE HAD IT. I THINK YOU'RE OUT OF YOUR MINDS.
...AS UBIQUITOUS AND EVER-PRESENT AS BOTTLED WATER.
YEAH, OKAY.
IT'S NOT A SHOT. YOU CAN TAKE YOUR --
OH, TONY, YOU'RE ROUGH.
THERE'S WATER IF YOU WANT.
THAT WAS GOOD.
MMM, TASTES LIKE ANíS AND SHAME.
HE'S GONNA BRING SOMETHING CALLED SOPA DE CURA EN VEREDA.
JUST IN TIME -- RICE SOUP
SERVED WITH A FESTIVE ARRAY OF ODD BITS.
OKAY, SHOW ME HOW IT'S DONE.
WE PUT ALL THIS INTO THE SOUP.
WHAT IS THAT?
THIS IS MEAT, COOKED, AND THEY GRIND IT.
SHREDDED BEEF, AVOCADO, BITS OF SWEET PLANTAIN --
THE END RESULT EVEN BETTER THAN THE SUM OF ITS PARTS.
OH, THAT'S GOOD.
FOLLOWED BY SOBRE BARRIGA,
GRILLED FLANK STEAK TOPPED WITH SALSA TAIL --
A BOGOTá RECIPE MADE OF SMOKED, SWEET CHILIES AND BEER.
THE MEAT IS SO TENDER.
IT'S REALLY EXTRAORDINARY.
EXTRAORDINARY.
YEAH.
AND THEN, ON THE GRILL?
THAT IS THE WAY.
YEAH.
AND REPRESENTING THE COAST -- TAMAL DE GUAPIL...
VERY IMPORTANT.
...FISH WRAPPED IN PLANTAIN OR BAJAL LEAF,
SEALING IN THE MOISTURE AND FLAVOR
WHILE IMPARTING ITS OWN --
LITERALLY TYING THE DISH TOGETHER.
MARAVILLOSO.
PLANTAIN BLENDED WITH MILK
THEN MIXED WITH SHAVED COCONUT AND REDUCED OVER FLAME,
FORMED INTO A CAKE,
THEN PLACED WITH THE ROHALO FISH INTO A BAJAL LEAF,
TOPPED WITH SAUTéED SHRIMP AND PASSION-FRUIT SAUCE,
THEN NEATLY WRAPPED AND POACHED.
THAT'S REALLY OLD-SCHOOL, INDIGENOUS PREPARATION.
THIS HAS SOME INFLUENCE FROM THE AFRICANS.
THE AFRICANS WOULD COOK LIKE THIS TO PRESERVE.
YOU COULD PRESERVE THE FISH A LONG TIME
OR CARRY IT WITH YOU.
IT'S VERY TYPICAL.
ARE ALL OF THE RECIPES --
THE PREPARATIONS HERE ARE VERY TRADITIONAL.
SON RECETAS DE ORIGEN CAMPESINO O DE SECTORES POPULARES.
THERE'S NO FUSION.
AUTHENTIC RECIPES FROM POPULAR NEIGHBORHOODS
AND FROM THE COUNTRYSIDE.
I'M VERY EXCITED BY WHAT YOU'RE DOING HERE.
I THINK THE BEST THING
THAT'S HAPPENING IN GASTRONOMY RIGHT NOW
IS THIS KIND OF LOOKING INWARD.
THIS IS THE BEST FOOD.
IF YOU DON'T RESPECT AND LOVE THIS,
THESE TRADITIONAL RECIPES OF YOUR COUNTRY,
THEN THERE'S NO FUTURE.
WE SHOULD CELEBRATE THIS.
CHEERS.
TOMORROW, AS I'LL SEE FIRSTHAND...
BIENVENIDOS.
...ANYTHING, IT APPEARS, IS POSSIBLE.
DURING ESCOBAR TIMES,
THIS AREA USED TO BE CALLED "THE ASSASSIN'S CRADLE."
6:00 A.M., MEDELLíN, COLOMBIA.
EVERY MORNING, A WORKFORCE HUNDREDS OF THOUSAND STRONG
GETS UP AND GOES TO WORK,
CHANCES ARE BY BUS.
BUT MORE THAN TRANSPORTATION,
COLOMBIA'S BUSES ARE A HIGHLY REGARDED EXPRESSION
OF INDIVIDUALITY AND PRIDE.
EVERYBODY WE MET IS VERY PROUD TO BE COLOMBIAN
AND VERY PROUD TO BE
FROM WHATEVER NEIGHBORHOOD THEY'RE FROM.
THEY THINK IT'S THE BEST NEIGHBORHOOD THERE IS.
EVERYWHERE, EVERYWHERE.
THIS ONE.
LET'S DO IT.
SEVERAL YEARS AGO,
THE CITY ACTUALLY CONSIDERED STANDARDIZING
THE PAINT AND MODEL OF CITY BUSES.
POPULAR OUTCRY AND HOWLS OF PROTEST
SHUT DOWN ANY FURTHER THOUGHT OF THAT IDEA PRONTO.
I LIKE THE ONES WITH THE SPOILERS ON TOP.
HERE, IT'S "*** MY BUS" BIG-TIME.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
THOUGH DESTINATIONS ARE CLEARLY POSTED ON THE WINDSHIELD,
ROUTES CAN BE CONFUSING TO THE OUTSIDERS.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
BEST TO MAKE ONE'S FIRST FEW TRIPS WITH A LOCAL --
LIKE MY NEW FRIEND, ANDREAS, A CHEF HERE.
YEAH.
TODAY, WE'RE GOING TO THE MINORISTA.
WHAT ARE WE LOOKING FOR?
CALENTA'O.
CALENTA'O.
COLOMBIA'S PROUD NATIONAL BREAKFAST.
WE'RE GONNA GET OFF.
ANDREAS' SUGGESTION FOR MY FIRST ATTEMPT
AT SCALING THIS MATTERHORN OF A BREAKFAST
IS THE MINORISTA MARKET --
WELL-ORGANIZED, CLEAN,
AND WITH JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING YOU CAN THINK OF
SOMEWHERE IN ITS DARK RECESSES.
[ SQUAWKING ]
THESE ARE PETS. THIS IS NOT FOOD.
SOME OF THEM ARE FOOD.
IT'S GOT ALL THE USUAL ANDEAN SUSPECTS.
A LOT.
3,000 TYPES IN THE ANDES ALONE.
SO, THIS IS A LOT OF DIFFERENT POTATOES.
YOU HAVE A WHOLE VARIETY,
STARTING WITH DIFFERENT TYPES AND SIZES.
SOME, THEY ARE TO MAKE CHIPS
OR TO MAKE IN A STALL OR IN SOME CULTURAL.
RIGHT, SOME ARE GOOD WITH CERTAIN THINGS.
YEAH.
MY FOCUS OF ATTENTION -- BIG SHOCK HERE --
IS THE WONDERLAND OF MEAT IN THE CELLAR LEVEL.
A LOT OF CHORIZOS AND ALL KINDS OF PORK.
THEY USE ALL OF IT.
GLISTENING VARIETAL CUTS,
LUNGS, LIVERS, WINDPIPES, LEAN, FAT, AND IN BETWEEN.
TRIPA, RIGHT?
YEAH, IT IS.
RIGHT, AND PORK BELLY.
THAT'S WHERE THEY MAKE THE CHICHARRóN.
CHICHARRóN -- THICK SLICES OF FAT-LAYERED PORK BELLY.
LOOKING GOOD.
[ SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY ]
YOU FIND IT EVERYWHERE,
INCLUDING THE APTLY NAMED HOW YUMMY RESTAURANT --
A FAVORITE OF SHOPPERS, MARKET WORKERS,
AND THE FINE FOLKS WHO MAKE LIPITOR.
IN COLOMBIA, WE HAVE A SAYING --
WE EAT BREAKFAST LIKE A KING,
WE EAT LUNCH LIKE A PRINCE, AND DINNER LIKE A PAUPER --
LIKE A POOR MAN.
THIS IS OUR REFRESH.
THIS IS JUST A LITTLE SNACK BEFORE BREAKFAST?
A SNACK BEFORE.
THIS ONE IS EMPANADA.
THE COLOMBIA STANDARD -- AN EMPANADA --
SPICY MEAT-AND-POTATO FILLING IN A CRISPY CORNMEAL CRUST.
AND IT'S FRIED. EVERYTHING IS FRIED.
RIGHT, A NICE LIGHT LITTLE APPETIZER
BEFORE OUR LIGHT BREAKFAST?
[ LAUGHS ]
OH, YEAH, I LOVE...
MMM!
MMM.
SO, THIS IS SORT OF LIKE SLOW-COOKED BEEF?
OH, THAT'S NICE, AND EASY TO EAT.
IF YOU GRAB A COUPLE OF THESE,
YOU CAN EAT THEM ON YOUR WAY TO WORK.
MY GIGANTOR-SIZED AMUSE-BOUCHE DOWN THE HATCH,
IT'S TIME FOR A LIGHT BREAKFAST.
OKAY, SO, WHAT'S THE DISH WE'RE ABOUT TO EAT?
WE'RE GONNA EAT CALENTA'O.
LEFTOVER.
THE LEFTOVER.
BASICALLY, WHAT WAS ONCE LEFTOVERS.
THEY CALL IT "CALENTA'O" --
FROM THE SPANISH "CALENTADO," MEANING "REHEATED."
NO.
NO?
LEFTOVER RICE AND BEANS, FRIED EGGS,
AN AREPA WITH CHEESE, SOME FRIED PLANTAINS,
AND SOME MEAT.
IT COMES WITH MEAT -- PORK, BEEF, OR CHICHARRóN.
THAT SOUNDS GOOD.
OH, WOW.
MUCHAS GRACIAS.
LET'S EAT.
DEAR JEBUS, HOW DO YOU EAT ALL THIS AND EXPECT TO MOVE?
IT'S THE BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS.
YEAH.
MAN, YOU DON'T DO THINGS IN A SMALL WAY HERE.
MNH-MNH.
THIS MAKES THE GRAND SLAM AT DENNY'S
FEEL LIKE A CARROT STICK.
YEAH, FILLS YOU UP.
IT'S A REGULAR BREAKFAST FOR SOME PEOPLE.
I CAN'T EAT THIS EVERY DAY.
INCREDIBLE.
BACK IN THE DAY, THIS HEARTY FARE
WAS SUPPOSED TO PROVIDE YOUR HARD-WORKING PEASANTRY
WITH A WHOLE DAY'S SUSTENANCE IN THE FIELDS.
THIS IS WHAT BREAKFAST SHOULD BE.
MM-HMM.
TASTY.
ALREADY, THIS IS THE BEST THING EVER.
IT'S SO GOOD
AND YET LANDS IN YOUR GUT LIKE AN ABRAMS TANK...
ONE MORE LITTLE PIECE OF PORK.
...DRIVEN BY ROSEANNE BARR.
THAT'S REALLY GOOD.
AFTER THE BREAK, THE FUN CONTINUES.
I DID HAVE A BIG BREAKFAST, BUT I DON'T WANT TO MISS THIS.
THERE WILL BE FAT -- LOTS OF IT --
SQUIRTING FROM PORES IN THE TERRORDOME OF CHUNKITUDE
THAT COLOMBIANS CALL "LUNCH."
HOLY CRAP.
YEAH, THAT'S A SERIOUS MEAL.
ENVIGADO, A DECIDEDLY TRANQUIL MUNICIPALITY
IN METROPOLITAN MEDELLíN,
A FAMILY NEIGHBORHOOD WHOSE NAME COMES
FROM THE LARGE SHADE-PROVIDING TREES ONCE FOUND HERE.
IT'S PROBABLY BEST KNOWN
FOR BEING THE ONE-TIME HOME OF PABLO ESCOBAR.
I'VE HEARD THAT WHEN LOOKING FOR BANDEJA PAISA,
THE MEDELLíN VERSION OF COLOMBIA'S NATIONAL DISH,
THAT THIS IS WHERE YOU COME...
CHEERS. iSALUD!
...OF COURSE, ACCOMPANIED
WITH THE NATIONAL DRINK, AGUARDIENTE.
TOUGH, YEAH. [ LAUGHS ]
IT'S HERE AT BRASAREPA WHERE I MEET PAQUITO,
WHO'S LIVED HERE HIS WHOLE LIFE,
THROUGH TIMES THICK AND THIN.
IF I LIVED AROUND THE CORNER AND I WAS HUNGRY,
WHAT WOULD BE THE ORDINARY -- THE TYPICAL THING TO HAVE HERE?
YOU ARE VERY, VERY HUNGRY?
I DID HAVE A BIG BREAKFAST, BUT I DON'T WANT TO MISS THIS.
LET'S PRETEND I'M REALLY HUNGRY.
[ Laughing ] OKAY, LET'S PRETEND.
OKAY, IF YOU ARE VERY, VERY HUNGRY,
YOU CAN HAVE A BANDEJA PAISA WITH EVERYTHING.
THAT'S A TRADITIONAL DISH.
THOUGH DIFFERENT IN EACH PART OF THE COUNTRY,
THE LOCAL VERSION IS SOME BEANS, NATCH;
A LITTLE SALAD -- THAT'S HEALTHY;
RICE -- WELL, OKAY, GOT TO HAVE RICE;
ANOTHER FRIED EGG -- AY;
GRILLED PORK -- NEVER A BAD THING;
AN AREPA -- IS THAT REALLY NECESSARY?;
GRILLED CHORIZO -- MAYBE TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING;
AND CHICHARRóN.
MMM, BACON.
HOLY [BLEEP]
BUT HOW DOES ONE NOT KEEL OVER
AFTER TWO MEALS OF THIS MAGNITUDE,
WADDLE OFF TO THE NEAREST FLOWER SACK,
AND COLLAPSE INTO A GROANING, FARTING, SEMI-CONSCIOUS HEAP?
MAN, THAT'S A MEAL.
NOW, YOU WOULD EAT THIS FOR LUNCH, ORDINARILY, OR BREAKFAST?
FOR LUNCH, BUT WHEN YOU EAT THAT,
YOU NEED A THREE-HOUR SIESTA OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT.
USUALLY YOU EAT ON SATURDAYS OR SUNDAYS WITH THE WHOLE FAMILY
BECAUSE IT TAKES A LONG TIME TO ALSO COOK EVERYTHING.
RIGHT.
IT'S GOOD. I'M LIKING THIS FOOD.
I'M NOT GONNA MAKE IT ALL THE WAY THROUGH, BUT...
LOOKING AROUND AT ENVIGADO'S BUCOLIC SUBURBAN STREETS,
IT'S HARD TO IMAGINE
THAT ONE OF THE WORLD'S BIGGEST DRUG LORDS
CALLED THIS HOME BASE.
ESCOBAR LIVED IN THIS TOWN?
YEAH, HE USED TO LIVE AROUND.
YEAH.
BUT THIS IS A FAIRLY LOW-PROFILE NEIGHBORHOOD TO LIVE
WHEN YOU HAD AS MUCH MONEY AND POWER AS HE DID.
HE WAS CALLED "THE BOSS," "THE PATRON," "THE KING."
ALL THE PEOPLE THAT WILL HAVE... WILL CALL HIM "PAPA."
SO YOU SAID HE BECAME SORT OF A BENEFACTOR TO THIS AREA?
YEAH. HE HELP EVERYBODY.
ESCOBAR WORKED HARD
TO CULTIVATE THIS ROBIN HOOD IMAGE.
IT'S VERY SURREAL BECAUSE HE WAS, LIKE, THE ARMY OF PABLO.
BUT HE DIDN'T DO BUSINESS HERE?
THE RETAIL END OF HIS BUSINESS --
THAT WASN'T HERE?
NO, NO, NO.
OUTSIDE OF ENVIGADO'S LITTLE GREEN WORLD, HOWEVER,
THINGS WERE NOT SO PLEASANT.
WHOLE NEIGHBORHOODS, ENTIRE GENERATIONS, WERE LOST.
THE '80s WAS REALLY TOUGH FOR MEDELLíN AND ALL THE COMMUNITY,
AND THEN NO RULES, NO GOVERNMENT, ANYTHING,
AND THEN THERE WAS THE NIGHTMARE.
BEFORE, THE PEOPLE WOULD HAVE A GUN IN THEIR HANDS,
AND THEY WILL KILL AFTER -- YOU KILL TWO OR THREE.
RIGHT.
10, 20, 30 --
I MEAN, THAT'S NOT A PROBLEM TO KILL SOMEBODY.
HOW OLD WERE YOU THEN?
I WAS 20, 22.
THE SCARS RUN DEEP.
IT'S JUST TOUGH TO TALK ABOUT HERE, YOU KNOW?
YEAH.
COLOMBIA HAS CHANGED SO MUCH IN THE LAST 10, 15 YEARS.
BEFORE, YOU COULDN'T GO OUTSIDE.
YOU COULDN'T GO INTO PLACES.
NOW, YOU CAN GO EVERYWHERE.
HERE, YOU CAN GO TO THE COMUNAS,
YOU CAN GO TO EVERY SINGLE PLACE.
THAT'S SUCH AN EXTRAORDINARY CHANGE
IN SUCH A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME.
IT'S ALMOST A SUPERNATURAL CHANGE.
EVERYBODY'S HEARTS AND MINDS AND ATTITUDES
HAVE TO CHANGE AT THE SAME TIME, ALMOST, FOR THAT TO HAPPEN,
SO IT IS INEVITABLE
THAT THINGS ARE JUST GONNA GET BETTER AND BETTER HERE.
CHEERS.
iSALUD!
♪ ME CONSUELA LA CLICA ♪
LIKE MILEY CYRUS? CANDY-*** BOY BANDS?
THINK JOHN MAYER IS DREAMY AND THAT TIMES SQUARE IS SCARY?
DíA A DíA.
TURN OFF YOUR TV NOW.
HEY, HEY, TONY!
BIENVENIDOS AL BARRIO, AL GUETO.
BOO!
MEDELLíN, COLOMBIA.
A CITY SURROUNDED BY MOUNTAINS.
[ INDISTINCT SHOUTING ]
HALF A MILLION PEOPLE LIVE HERE
IN BARRIOS KNOWN AS THE COMUNAS.
HOLA, HOLA. HOLA, HOLA.
POW, POW, POW, POW!
ANOTHER WORLD.
WHOO!
THE PEOPLE WHO WERE ONCE LEFT OUT, MARGINALIZED,
LEFT TO THE STREETS FOR THE CARTELS.
LA JUVENTUD ES UN DURO DEL BARRIO.
THE NEIGHBORHOOD THAT YOU SEE RIGHT AT THE TOP --
IT'S CALLED SANTO DOMINGO,
AND IT USED TO BE THE MOST DANGEROUS NEIGHBORHOOD
IN MEDELLíN.
LAURA, A LOCAL FILMMAKER, IS TAKING ME TO WHAT WAS ONCE
THE MOST BRUTAL URBAN BATTLEGROUND
IN COLOMBIA'S DRUG-FUELED CIVIL WAR.
Bourdain: WHAT'S THE NAME OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD?
COMUNA UNO ORIENTAL.
SO EVEN A FEW YEARS AGO,
IT WOULD'VE BEEN UNTHINKABLE TO COME UP HERE?
OH, COMPLETELY, AND DURING ESCOBAR TIMES,
THIS AREA USED TO BE CALLED "THE ASSASSIN'S CRADLE."
HE USED TO TRAIN HIS SOLDIERS IN THIS NEIGHBORHOOD.
THAT WAS THEN. THIS IS NOW.
TAKE, FOR INSTANCE, THIS THING -- THE METROCABLE.
HAVING THE METROCABLE,
IT'S NOW A 30-MINUTE WAY TO GO TO WORK.
THAT MAKES A REAL BIG DIFFERENCE.
IT MAKES A REAL BIG DIFFERENCE.
CAPITAL INVESTMENTS IN THE CITY SLUMS
HAS ACTUALLY PAID REAL, TANGIBLE DIVIDENDS
TO BOTH RICH AND POOR.
I'M REALLY GLAD THAT YOU'RE GETTING TO SEE
THAT PART OF COLOMBIA
THAT SOMETIMES PEOPLE DON'T REALLY WANT TO LOOK AT.
AND I THINK THE REAL BEAUTY OF COLOMBIA
LIES IN THESE NEIGHBORHOODS.
AND THE REAL FOOD, ALSO.
YEAH, YEAH.
WHAT ARE WE EATING TODAY?
WE'RE HAVING A SANCOCHO.
WE'RE MEETING EL GATO, WHO IS A FRIEND OF MINE.
HE'S A CHEF.
SOME FOOD JUST REALLY ISN'T RIGHT TO EAT IN A RESTAURANT.
YOU HAVE TO GO TO THE STREET.
ANTIOQUIA POR SIEMPRE AJA, COLOMBIA VIVE.
TODAY, THROUGH STEEP, NARROW ALLEYS AND PASSAGES
BETWEEN THE HOUSES OF WOOD AND BRICK,
I'M INVITED TO A PARTY --
ORIENTAL'S VERSION OF A BARBECUE.
VOLUMEN. SU EQUIPO QUE PARCHE.
GATO AND BUCANERO BELONG TO THE GROUP LA CLICA.
♪ CLICA, CLICA ♪
♪ BUCANERO EL *** ♪
THESE GUYS GREW UP RIGHT HERE IN THE CENTER,
THE CROSSROADS OF COLOMBIAN GANG WARFARE.
♪ CHE TERCEROS ♪
♪ CHARO, U.N.D ♪
LA CLICA IS UNIQUE.
FOR ONE THING, THE MEMBERS COME FROM DIFFERENT NEIGHBORHOODS,
WHAT INEVITABLY USED TO BE ENEMY TERRITORY.
♪ PURA GANG YA GRIPA ♪
♪ YERBA FLORECITA AL CONSUMIRLA ME ORIENTO ♪
♪ HUELE PA' ENRIQUECE RAíZ SURACONéRICA ♪
SO HERE WE ARE AT GATO'S PLACE.
NEA DEL PERRO AL MUNDO.
HI, HOW ARE YOU?
OH, I LIKE IT. SO FAR, SO GOOD, MAN.
SO WE'RE BOTH COCINEROS.
YEAH.
GATO CLAIMS FOOD SAVED HIS LIFE.
HE LEARNED THE COOKING TRADE, AND ALONG WITH HIS MUSIC,
IT TOOK HIM AWAY FROM A PROBABLE DESTINY
AS CANNON FODDER FOR THE CARTELS.
QUé RICO.
Laura: SO, WE'RE GONNA INTRODUCE YOU TO A CHICKEN.
THEY MAKE HIM DRUNK,
AND THEN THEY KILL HIM, AND IT GOES INSIDE THE...
AH, SO WE'D EAT THE MEAT. YEAH.
I KNEW SOMETHING WAS GONNA DIE ON THIS SHOW.
AS PER SANCOCHO TRADITION,
THE CHICKEN, AFFECTIONATELY NAMED FEDERICO,
IS FED A SHOT OF AGUARDIENTE,
PREPARING HIM FOR THE INEVITABLE.
BORRACHóN.
I, TOO, NEED TO PREPARE.
UGH.
OH, MAN, THAT LOOKS BEAUTIFUL.
NICE COLOR.
GATO, NOW A CHEF AT THE PUBLIC UNIVERSITY,
IS TREATING US TO HIS OWN SPECIAL SANCOCHO.
SMELLING GOOD, MAN.
WHILE THE MAIN COURSE SIMMERS GENTLY OVER A LOW FLAME,
A SNACK.
IS THAT MORCILLA? AMAZING.
MORCILLA -- BLOOD AND RICE AND SEASONINGS
STUFFED INTO CASINGS.
AND MAN, THIS IS REALLY GOOD MORCILLA.
ONE OF MY FAVORITE DISHES ANYWHERE,
AND THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST VERSIONS I'VE HAD...
MADE FRESH BY AUNTIE.
IT'S NOT THE PRETTIEST OF JOBS, BUT WITH A LITTLE HELP,
THE FINISHED PRODUCT MAKES IT WORTH THE EFFORT.
OH, MAN, THAT'S GOOD.
MMM. OH, YEAH.
MMM.
WE'RE GONNA GIVE A SHOT TO THE CHICKEN.
WHOO!
FEDERICO'S MOMENT OF TRUTH HAS ARRIVED.
DE TODO EL SACRIFICIO QUE SE COME...
GATO OFFERS A SINCERE PRAYER ASKING GOD'S FORGIVENESS
AND THANKING FEDERICO FOR HIS SACRIFICE.
STAY GOLD, FEDERICO. STAY GOLD.
Bourdain: WHAT GOES IN? ALL OF THE INGREDIENTS?
IT'S CALLED TRIFáSICO DE SANCOCHO.
BECAUSE IT HAS THREE KINDS OF MEAT --
CHICKEN, BEEF, AND PORK.
Gato: ESPINAZO DE CERDO.
SPINAL OF THE PIG.
TIENE QUE VENIR ARRANCADO DESDE EL CEREBRO PARA EL PODER.
IT HAS TO BE -- IT HAS TO BE CUT FROM THE BRAIN
TO GET, LIKE, THE SOUL, OF THE ANIMAL INSIDE.
Y TIENE A FEDERICO.
AND THEN, LAST, FEDERICO.
EVERYBODY HAS THEIR OWN RECIPE.
CARROT.
YUCA. TIENE TRES PAPAS.
PLáTANO.
VARIOUS CORN AND ROOT VEGETABLES,
LOCAL HERBS, OTHER STUFF.
GUASCA TíPICO DE ACá. ES UNA AROMáTICA TíPICA DE ACá
IT'S CALLED "GUASCA."
IT GROWS AS, LIKE, A BAD WEED,
AND THREE SHOTS OF RUM FOR THE SOUL.
THERE'S ALWAYS A SINGLE DISH
WHICH CAPTURES THE TRUE SOUL OF A CULTURE.
YA VAMOS A SERVIRLE EL SANCOCHO, PUES.
Bourdain: HE WAS TELLING ME, YOU KNOW, JUST A FEW YEARS AGO,
YOU COULDN'T WALK OVER TO THAT NEIGHBORHOOD.
YOU COULDN'T WALK OVER TO THAT. THERE WERE DIVISIONS HERE.
YEAH, WHAT HAPPENS
IS THAT THERE'S A VERY DANGEROUS COMBINATION
THAT IS IGNORANCE WITH GUNS.
RIGHT.
AND WHEN THAT HAPPENS, ALL OF THEM --
LIKE, MORE IGNORANT KIDS GO IN,
WORK FOR THE MORE POWERFUL MINDS WHO WORK WITH THEM
AND MAKE THEM ASSASSINS AND MAKE THEM THEIR SOLDIERS.
THAT WASN'T THEIR WAR. IT WAS SOMEONE ELSE'S WAR.
VISIONES, AMPLIó SUS PLANES, SUS IDEALES.
SO WHAT'S HAPPENING NOW -- IT'S COMPLETELY DIFFERENT
BECAUSE INSTEAD OF JOINING THE MILITIA,
YOUNG PEOPLE ARE JOINING CULTURAL GROUPS,
SOCIAL MOVEMENTS,
AND THEY ARE GETTING INTO, LIKE, MUSIC, ART,
AND THE WHOLE ATMOSPHERE OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD CHANGED.
WHEN THERE'S A CHANGE THAT BIG,
THERE'S A CHANGE IN THE HUMAN HEART.
EL CORAZóN HUMANO HACE EL PODER DE LA VIDA.
SANCOCHO --
A METAPHOR FOR THE NEIGHBORHOOD, MAYBE?
TOUGH, KIND OF UGLY, BUT TRANSFORMED.
NAH, I'M NOT GOING THERE.
LET'S JUST SAY IT'S REALLY GOOD.
MY FAVORITE PART OF THE EVENING.
OH, YEAH, JEFE.
BEEN WAITING FOR THIS. BEAUTIFUL.
OH, YEAH. THAT IS GOOD.
THAT IS WORTH WAITING FOR.
MAN, LOOK AT THAT TEXTURE. WATCH THIS.
WHEN THE SPOON GOES IN,
THAT ALL THICKENED UP WITH ALL THAT NICE STARCHY THINGS.
MMM!
¿SE PARECE A ALGúN PLATO DE ALGúN PAíS?
DOES IT TASTE SIMILAR TO ANY OTHER FOOD THAT YOU HAD BEFORE?
IT'S VERY DIFFERENT, BUT AT THE SAME TIME,
EVERY REALLY GREAT COOKING CULTURE
HAS SOMETHING LIKE THIS --
SOMETHING THAT'S COOKED REALLY SLOW,
SOMETHING WHERE FAMILIES AND FRIENDS GET TOGETHER.
EVEN IF YOU'VE NEVER TASTED THIS BEFORE,
THIS FEELS VERY FAMILIAR, IN A GOOD WAY.
YOU KNOW, IT HAS THE SAME EMOTION.
TIENE LA MISMA EMULSIóN.
BUT THE FLAVORS?
OH, NO.
IT'S NO MYSTERY THAT IN EVERY POOR CULTURE,
PEOPLE MAKE THE MOST OF WHAT THEY HAVE.
IT SEEMS THAT IN THE PLACES
WHERE PEOPLE HAVE HAD VERY, VERY, VERY HARD TIMES,
WHEN THERE ARE GOOD TIMES, YOU ENJOY THEM SO MUCH MORE.
THAT'S WHY THEY SAY MEDELLíN
IS THE HAPPIEST CITY IN THE WORLD.
WHEN YOU KNOW HOW BAD THINGS CAN BE,
YOU KNOW HOW GOOD -- YOU KNOW WHAT GOOD IS.
THESE PEOPLE HAVE ALL LOST BROTHERS, SONS, AND FRIENDS.
[ LAUGHTER ]
LAURA HERSELF LOST HER FATHER TO THE VIOLENCE.
[ FIREWORK HISSES ]
AND YET, THEY FIND REASON FOR ENORMOUS PRIDE
FOR WHO THEY ARE, WHERE THEY LIVE,
AND WHAT THEY'VE ENDURED.
WHEN I LOOK AROUND, YOU KNOW,
I SEE IT'S NOT A RICH NEIGHBORHOOD,
BUT I SEE A PROUD NEIGHBORHOOD.
BIENVENIDO A LA REAL CARA DE COLOMBIA.
WELCOME TO THE REAL FACE OF COLOMBIA.
I'M REALLY GLAD TO BE HERE.
[ CHEERS AND APPLAUSE ]
[ FIRECRACKER POPS ]
IF I'VE SHOWN YOU NOTHING ELSE ABOUT COLOMBIA,
I HOPE I'VE AT LEAST GIVEN YOU REASON FOR OPTIMISM.
THINGS CAN CHANGE,
THAT EVEN THE WORST OF TIMES, THE MOST HOPELESS OF PLACES,
CAN ACTUALLY BECOME BETTER.
COLOMBIA -- YES, COLOMBIA.
IT'S BEAUTIFUL, AND THE FOOD IS SHOCKINGLY GOOD.
BUT AS ALWAYS,
IT'S THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE THE PLACE.