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Transcriber's Note:
Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original
document have been preserved.
Map to illustrate
the Story of
Antoine of Oregon
Antoine of Oregon
A Story of the Oregon Trail
BY
JAMES OTIS
NEW YORK -:- CINCINNATI -:- CHICAGO
AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY
Copyright, 1912, by
JAMES OTIS KALER.
Copyright, 1912, in Great Britain.
ANTOINE OF OREGON.
W. P. I
FOREWORD
The author of this series of stories for children
has endeavored simply to show why and how the
descendants of the early colonists fought their way
through the wilderness in search of new homes. The
several narratives deal with the struggles of those
adventurous people who forced their way westward,
ever westward, whether in hope of gain or in answer
to "the call of the wild," and who, in so doing,
wrote their names with their blood across this
country of ours from the Ohio to the Columbia.
To excite in the hearts of the young people of
this land a desire to know more regarding the building
up of this great nation, and at the same time
to entertain in such a manner as may stimulate to
noble deeds, is the real aim of these stories. In them
there is nothing of romance, but only a careful,
truthful record of the part played by children in
the great battles with those forces, human as well
as natural, which, for so long a time, held a vast
portion of this broad land against the advance of
home seekers.
With the knowledge of what has been done by
our own people in our own land, surely there is
no reason why one should resort to fiction in order
to depict scenes of heroism, daring, and sublime
disregard of suffering in nearly every form.
JAMES OTIS.
CONTENTS
PAGE
The Fur Traders
Why I am not a Fur Trader
Striving to Plan for the Future
An Inquisitive Stranger
An Unexpected Proposition
I set Out as a Guide
John Mitchell's Outfit
Making the Bargain
We Leave St. Louis
The Hardships to be Encountered
The Camp at Independence
A Frontier Town
The Start from Independence
Careless Travelers
Overrun by Wild Horses
Searching for the Live Stock
Abandoning the Missing Animals
Meeting with Other Emigrants
A Tempest
Facing the Indians
Teaching the Pawnees a Lesson
The Pawnee Village
A Bold Demand
I Gain Credit as a Guide
A Difficult Crossing
Wash Day
Indian Pictures
A Plague of Wood Ticks
Another Tempest
The Cattle Stampeded Again
Difficult Traveling
Colonel Kearny's Dragoons
Disagreeable Visitors
Driving away the Indians
Turkey Hunting
Eager Hunters
Antelope Country
Shooting Antelopes
A Pawnee Visitor
The Pawnees try to Frighten Us
Defending Ourselves
Scarcity of Fuel, and Discomfort
Lame Oxen
An Army of Emigrants
The Buffalo Country
Hunting Buffaloes
My Mother's Advice
Ash Hollow Post Office
New Comrades
Fort Laramie
A Sioux Encampment
Indians on the March
The Fourth of July
Multitudes of Buffaloes
We Meet Colonel Kearny Again
Across the Divide
Fort Bridger
Trading at Fort Hall
Thievish Snakes
The Hot Springs
The Falls of the Snake River
Signs of the Indians
Beset with Danger
Hunger and Thirst
Nearly Exhausted
Arrival at Fort Boise
On the Trail Once More
Cayuse Indians
The Columbia River
An Indian Ferry
The Dalles of the Columbia
Our Live Stock
My Work as Guide Ended
I Become a Farmer
ANTOINE OF OREGON
THE FUR TRADERS
There is ever much pride in my heart when I hear
it said that all the trails leading from the Missouri
River into the Great West were pointed out to the
white people by fur buyers, for my father was well
known, and in a friendly way, as one of the most successful
of the free traders who had their headquarters
at St. Louis.
It is not for me to say, nor for you to believe, that
the fur traders were really the first to travel over these
trails, for, as a matter of fact, they were marked out
in the early days by the countless numbers of buffaloes,
deer, and other animals that always took the
most direct road from their feeding places to where
water could be found.
Then came the Indians, seeking a trail from one
part of the country to another, and they followed in
the footsteps of the animals, knowing full well that
thereby they would not lack for water, the one thing
needful to those who go to and fro in the wilderness.
Thus it was that the animals and the Indians combined
to mark out the most direct roads that could
be made, with due regard to the bodily needs of those
who traveled from one part of the Great West to
another.
As the traders in furs journeyed from tribe to tribe
of the Indians, or sought the most favored places for
trapping, they learned how white men could go westward
from the Missouri River to the Pacific Ocean
without fear of dying from hunger or thirst.
My father, Pierre Laclede, was, as I have said, a
free trader, which means that he went out into the
wilderness with his crew of boatmen and trappers, free
from any bargains or duties to the great fur trading
companies, such as the Hudson's Bay, the Northwest,
and the X. Y.
There were regular battles fought between the hunters
and trappers of these great companies in the olden
days, when St. Louis was under Spanish rule and had
become a famous gathering place for the fur traders.
There were many like my father, who, hiring men to
help them, carried into the wilderness goods to be exchanged
with the Indians for furs, and, failing in this,
set about trapping fur-bearing animals throughout the
winter season.
Wonderful sport these same traders had, as I know
full well, having been more than once with my father
over that trail leading from the Missouri River to the
Oregon country.
Then there was the home-coming to St. Louis, when
every man forgot the days on which he had been cold or
hungry, and no longer heeded the half-healed wounds
received in Indian attacks, when he had been forced
to defend with his life the furs he had gathered.
Once in St. Louis, what rare times of feasting and
making merry, while the furs were being shipped to
New Orleans, or bartered to the big companies that
were ever on the watch for the return of the free traders!
WHY I AM NOT A FUR TRADER
I, Antoine Laclede, would have followed in the footsteps
of my father, becoming myself a free trader after
the treacherous Blackfeet Indians killed him, had it
not been that my mother, with her arms around my
neck, pleaded that I remain at home with her.
Therefore, instead of carrying on my father's business
as a lad of fifteen should have done, I strove to
content myself at St. Louis,
to the pleasure of my dear
mother.
However much affection
there might be between us, it
remained that we must be
supplied with food, and that
my mother should have the
things necessary for her comfort.
But if I did not take up
my father's business after he
had lost, with his life, the
store of furs which he had
been eight months in gathering,
as well as what remained
of the goods he had carried into the wilderness for
trading, then how could I rightly fill the position as
head of the family, when all I had in this world were
my two hands and the desire to make my mother
happy?
We lived on a street near the old cathedral, and it
may be that our small home was not the most pleasing
to look upon of all the houses in St. Louis; but
in it I was born. My father had built it, paying for
every timber with furs he had gathered at risk of his
life, and I would not have yielded it in exchange for
the finest house in the land.
The evil days fell upon us, meaning my mother and
me, very shortly after the news of my father's ***
was brought to St. Louis, for we soon came to know
that we had neither goods nor furs enough to keep us
one full year.
STRIVING TO PLAN FOR THE FUTURE
Then it was that I went out one day alone to the
river bank, where I might have solitude and think
how I could care for my mother as the only son of a
widow should care for that person whom he most
loves.
I had lived fifteen years. There was no trapper in
the Northwest Company who could take more furs
than I could. To ride and shoot were my pleasures,
and my unhappiness was in being forced to set down
words with a pen, or to puzzle my poor brain over
long rows of figures which must have been invented
only for the sorrow of Antoine Laclede.
My rifle and Napoleon, a small spotted pony that
could outkick any beast this side the Rocky Mountains,
made up all I owned of value, and yet with
them I must earn enough to support my mother and
make her comfortable.
The truth is, I might have joined with some free
trader who had known my father, working for a small
wage, which would not be more than enough to supply
my mother with food and clothes
such as had been provided by
my father; but I must earn
more than that, lest the day
should come when, from wounds
or sickness, I could not hold up
my end with my
companions on the
trail or with the
traps.
All this made my
heart heavy as I sat
there on the river
bank asking myself
what there was a
lad like me could
do.
Just at that time,
when I was most
downhearted, a man, tall of stature and spare in
flesh, came up close beside me, and, as it seemed,
looked down with much mirth in his heart, perhaps
because I carried such a woebegone expression on
my face.
AN INQUISITIVE STRANGER
Then, much to my surprise, he said, speaking in
what seemed an odd tone, much as though he had a
cold in his head:—
"Are you the son of Laclede, the free trader who
was killed by the Blackfeet Indians not so long
ago?"
I was ever proud to own that I was my father's
son, and speedily gave the stranger an answer, although
at the same time asking myself whether there was any
good reason for such a question, or if he was intending
to make sport of me.
"I am told that you have been over the trail 'twixt
here and the Oregon country with your father, lad?"
"I have been twice into the land of the Walla Wallas,
but no farther than that, although it would have
pleased me well could I have seen the great ocean."
"Now I am not so certain where the country of
what you call the Walla Wallas may be," the man
said with a puzzled expression upon his face, whereupon
I answered quickly, proud because of being able
to tell:—
"It is this side the Cascade Range, the other side
of the Blue Mountains, near where the Columbia
River takes a sharp turn to the westward."
"The Columbia River, eh?" the man repeated, as
if satisfied with my reply. "Then you surely must
have traveled near to the Pacific Ocean?"
"I have been so near that one might go down the
river to it in a canoe, if he were so disposed; but
there is a station of the Hudson's Bay Company near
the coast and we free traders who deal with the Northwest
Company have no desire for traffic with those
who would shut us out from St. Louis, fearing lest
we may cut into their trade."
AN UNEXPECTED PROPOSITION
The man seated himself by my side as if satisfied
that I was the one whom he sought, and began his
business by saying:—
"My name is John Mitchell. I am at the head of a
party of thirty men, women, and children who are
bound for the
Oregon country.
We are taking
with us forty
head of oxen,
twenty horses, ten
mules, and thirty
cows, to say nothing
of the remainder
of the outfit. I counted on meeting here at
St. Louis a man who would guide us across, but find
that he has left us in the lurch, likely because of
getting a better offer from some other company of
settlers. Now I have been told that you could serve
us as guide; that you are what may be called a fairly
good hunter; and, although you look a bit too young
for the business, there are those here in St. Louis
who say you may be depended upon. What about
guiding my party across? We are willing to pay
considerably more than fair wages—"
"It may not be for me to do any such thing," I
replied quickly, although at the same time wishing I
could go once more into the Oregon country and do a
man's work as guide. "I have here my mother, who
has no other to depend upon, and I must stand by her,
as a son should."
"Well said, lad, well said. It does you credit to
think first of your mother; but we are willing to pay
considerable money to one who can guide us, because
this kind of traveling is new to all my party. Already
in coming up from Indiana we have had trouble with
the cattle and with the teams. Now say three hundred
dollars for the trip, and if you are minded to
take your mother with you we stand ready to let her
share in whatsoever we have."
There is no reason why I should set down all we
said, for we sat there on the river bank until an hour
had passed, talking all the while.
Each moment I grew more and more eager for the
adventure, until it seemed to me I had never had but
one desire in life, and that to go into the Oregon country
and make there a home for my mother.
I promised to meet the man again that evening
and went straight away home to lay the matter before
my mother. It surprised me not a little that she
seemed to be in favor of going to the Oregon country,
and I have since been led to believe that her willingness
to abandon the home in St. Louis came from the
wish to make a change and to leave that place where
everything must needs remind her of my father.
I SET OUT AS A GUIDE
Before seeking out John Mitchell, whose company
was encamped on the opposite side of the river, I
visited a neighbor who had once offered to buy our
home. With him I agreed that for a certain sum of
money he should take possession of the house, using
it as his own until my mother and I came back,
or, in case we remained in the Oregon country, then
he was to pay us as many dollars as we agreed upon.
That afternoon, an hour before sunset, I paddled
across the river to where John Mitchell's company
was encamped, and for the first time I questioned
whether it might be possible for me, a lad only fifteen
years of age, to guide all these people, who seemingly
had no more idea of what was to be encountered in a
journey to the Oregon country, than if they had never
heard of such a place.
I dare venture to say there could not have been
found in St. Louis a lad over ten years old who would
have shown so much ignorance in forming a camp,
as did John Mitchell, who held himself commander
of the company.
True, there was no reason why they need guard
themselves as if in the country of an enemy. Yet
if they were careless at the start, heeding not the common
precautions against the stampeding of their cattle,
or the possibility that prowling Indians might steal
whatever lay carelessly around, then surely when in a
place where danger lurked, they could not be depended
upon to care for themselves in a sensible manner.
Somewhat of this I said to John Mitchell while
looking around the encampment, and that he himself
was ignorant of what might be met with on a journey
to the Oregon country, was shown when he asked:—
"And are you reckoning, lad, that we may come
upon much danger?"
"Ay, sir, and plenty of it," I replied. "Just now
the Indians are quiet, so I have heard it said by the
traders; but even when there is no disturbance of any
account, you are likely to come upon roving bands
that will make trouble. Even though they may do
no worse, you can set it down as a fact that from the
time of leaving the settlement of Independence, where
the journey really begins, until you have come into
the Walla Walla country, there will be hardly a day,
or, I should say, a night, when you are not in danger
of losing your stock through these red thieves."
JOHN MITCHELL'S OUTFIT
There was one thing in favor of John Mitchell, as
I looked at the matter, which was that his outfit was
most complete. He had five well-made carts with
straight bodies, and sideboards from fourteen to sixteen
inches wide running outward four or five inches;
in other words, what are called "Mormon wagons,"
and to three of these he counted on putting four yoke
of cattle apiece. I was not so well satisfied with this,
for the beasts had been raised in Indiana, and therefore
were not accustomed to eating prairie
grass, which would be the greater
portion of their
food during the journey.
I had always heard it said
that Illinois or Missouri cattle could stand the journey
to the Oregon country better than any others, although
then I did not know it from my own experience.
The ten mules were to be used for the hauling of
the two remaining wagons. To one of these would
be harnessed six of the animals, and the other, in
which many of the women and children were to ride,
was to be drawn by four. The horses were to be
used under the saddle.
I was forced to admit that Mitchell had not been
niggardly in outfitting his company.
He had no less than five sheet-iron stoves with boilers,
one being carried on a small platform at the rear end
of each wagon. There were tents in abundance for
all the company, while for cooking utensils, there were
plates and cups and basins of tinware, half a dozen or
more churns, an ample supply of water kegs, and
farming tools almost without number.
I had little or no interest in this part of the outfit,
but took good care to make certain there were ropes
and hobble straps in plenty for tying up the horses
and fettering those that were likely to stray, because
I knew from experience how much of such supplies
might be lost or stolen during the long journey.
The weapons carried by the men were of heavier
caliber than I would have suggested, unless they
counted on using them wholly for buffalo shooting.
John Mitchell took no little pride in showing me his
rifled gun which carried thirty-two bullets to the
pound, when to my mind fifty-six would have served
him better for general work; but that was really no
concern of mine.
MAKING THE BARGAIN
We talked over the matter fairly and at great length,
all the men of the company and some of the women
taking part in the parley. The bargain, as I understood
it, was that I was hired for no other service
than to guide this company, and also to make suggestions
as to the best places for camping, as well as
how we could keep the people supplied with fresh meat.
It was agreed that my mother should ride in the
four-mule wagon with John Mitchell's family, which
consisted of his wife, a girl about my own age by
name of Susan, and three awkward-looking boys.
The oldest of these lads was not more than ten, I
should think, and all of them were so clumsy that it
seemed almost impossible for them to avoid treading
on their own feet. About mounting a horse or rounding
up cattle, they knew no more than my Napoleon
knew about good manners.
Susan, however, was a sprightly girl, who, as it
seemed to me, had more good sense in her little finger
than might be found in all the rest of the family.
Before my visit was at an end, she came to ask concerning
this or that which we might meet with on the
way, and I believed I had found
one who would be a most desirable
comrade.
Unless I mistook her entirely,
she was a girl to be
depended upon in the time
of trouble, and when one
would travel from the
Missouri River to the
Oregon country, it is of
the greatest importance
to have with him only
those who can be relied
on to a certainty when
danger lurks at hand, as it surely does, so I have heard
my father say, from the time the voyager leaves the
Kansas River until he has come to the Columbia.
It was agreed that my mother and I should have a
day in which to make ready for this journey, which,
if we met with no serious mishaps, would require not
less than five months to make; therefore it can well
be understood that we had little time to spend in sleep,
if we would present ourselves to John Mitchell at the
hour agreed upon.
It is my desire never to make a promise which I do
not, or cannot keep; consequently there were many
things left undone in St. Louis when mother and I
crossed the river; but it was better thus than that
I should disappoint ever so slightly those with whom I
had made a positive agreement.
WE LEAVE ST. LOUIS
In order that one may the better understand how
much of a journey it is from the Missouri River to
the Oregon country, I set down here the fact that at
eleven o'clock in the forenoon, on the twenty-fifth day
of April, in the year 1845, we, meaning John Mitchell's
company, my mother, and I, set off on that long march.
The real journey would not begin until we had passed
that settlement on the Missouri known as Independence,
which is the point of departure for those who
count on traversing the Oregon or the Santa Fe trail.
Therefore concerning this portion of our march I
shall content myself simply with saying that we arrived
at Independence on the morning of May 6th, and
made camp two miles beyond, on the bank of a small
creek, where there was plenty of grass for the cattle.
It must be understood that up to this time we had
been traveling through one settlement and another
in a portion of the country where were to be found
as many people as lived, mayhap, in the neighborhood
from which John Mitchell had come. Yet so awkward
were the men and boys, that while we were traversing
beaten roads they found it exceedingly difficult to
keep the cows from straying or the oxen from stampeding
even while they were yoked and hitched to the
heavy wagons.
I do not claim to have had any experience at driving
oxen or herding cattle, and therefore I held myself
aloof, saying it were better these people from Indiana
should learn their lesson when there were but few
difficulties in the way and no dangers, so that after
we should come where the real labor began, they
might at least have some slight idea of what was expected
of them.
THE HARDSHIPS TO BE ENCOUNTERED
But for the fact that Susan Mitchell, riding upon
a small black, wiry-looking horse, held herself well
by my side, I would have been disheartened even
before we had really begun the journey, because
I was looking forward to what we must encounter,
and saying to myself that unless these people could
pull themselves together in better fashion, we were
certain to come to grief.
When a company fails to herd thirty cows, over
what might well be called a beaten highway, what
would you expect when in a country where the
Indians are doing all they can to stampede and run
off cattle as well as horses?
I soon saw that Susan was a girl of good understanding,
for without a word having been spoken,
she seemed to realize those fears which had come
into my mind, and said again
and again as if to strengthen
my courage:—
"They will
know more about this
kind of traveling when we reach Independence."
I could not refrain from saying in reply that unless
they learned more speedily it would be well we waited
a full year at Independence, rather than attempt a
journey where so much danger and hardship awaited
us.
I venture to say that there was not one among
John Mitchell's company who could have put a pack
upon a horse in such a manner that it would hold in
place half an hour over rough traveling; and as for
handling a mule team, the driver of that wagon in
which my mother rode had no more idea of how the
beasts should be treated than if he had so many sheep
in harness.
To show how ignorant these people were regarding
the country, I have only to say that from the moment
we left St. Louis one or another was continually asking
me whether we were likely to come upon buffaloes
before the night had set. The idea of buffaloes
between St. Louis and Independence, save perchance
we came upon some old bull that had been driven
away from the herd by the hunters!
It was by my advice that John Mitchell decided to
overhaul his outfit at Independence in order to learn
whether there might be anything needed, for after
having left the settlement we would find no opportunity
of replenishing our stores save at some one of
the forts, and then it was a question, serious indeed,
whether we could get what might be needed.
THE CAMP AT INDEPENDENCE
The tents were hardly more than set up, and the
women had but just got about their cooking, for the
breakfast had been a hasty meal owing to our being
so near the settlement, when we were visited by a
dozen or more Kansas Indians, who are about as disreputable
a looking lot as can be found in the country—dirty,
ill-favored red men with ragged blankets
cast about them, and seeming more like beggars than
anything else.
To tell the truth, I would rather have seen around
the camp a Blackfoot, a Cheyenne, or a Sioux, knowing
that any of them would *** me if he had a
fair opportunity, than those
beggarly Kansas savages.
It was the first time any of the women of our company,
save my mother, had seen an Indian near his
own village, and straightway all of them, with the
exception of Susan, were in a panic of fear, believing
harm would be done.
Even John Mitchell was undecided as to how he
should treat them, until I told him that any attempt
to drive the creatures away would be useless, and
that if his people were so disposed they might give
them some food; but it was in the highest degree
necessary that sharp watch be kept, else we would
find much of our outfit missing after the visitors had
taken their departure.
The men and the boys of our company were so disquieted
because of having come thus suddenly upon the
Indians, that they kept good watch over the camp during
this first day, and it would have been well for all of
us if they had continued to stand as honest guard over
their belongings.
It was found that we were needing extra bows for the
wagons, meaning those bent hoops over which the canvas
covering is stretched, that the supply of shoes for
the horses and mules was not sufficient, and, in fact,
there were half a hundred little things required which the
women believed necessary to their comfort.
Therefore John Mitchell and I went into the settlement
to get what was wanted, and, like the good comrade
she gave promise of being, Susan insisted on going
with us.
A FRONTIER TOWN
Independence was much like a trading post, save
that there were no blockhouses; but the log tavern
had the appearance of a building put up to resist an
attack, and the brick houses surrounding it were made
with heavy walls in which were more than one loophole
for defense.
The idea that the settlement was a frontier post
was heightened by the number of Indians to be seen,
while their scrawny ponies were tied
here and there in every available place.
There were the wretched
Kansas, only half covered
with their greasy, torn
blankets, Shawnees,
decked out in
calicoes and fanciful
stuff, Foxes, with
their shaved heads
and painted faces,
and here and there a
Cheyenne sporting
his war bonnet of feathers.
The scene was not new to
me, and so did not invite my attention;
but Susan, who seemingly believed that she had
suddenly come into the very heart of the Indian
country, was so interested that I went with her here
and there, while her father was bartering in the shops,
and before an hour had passed her idea of an Indian
was far different from what it had been before she
left her home in Indiana.
I had nothing to say against the savages more than
can be set down when I speak of the *** of my
father, and save for the fact that Susan was so eager
to see all she might, and that everything was so strange
to her, I would not have lingered in the settlement a
single minute longer than was necessary to complete
our outfit.
There were here Santa Fe traders in Mexican costume;
French trappers from the mountains, with
their long hair and buckskin clothing; groups of
Spaniards, who were evidently bound down the
Santa Fe trail; and here and there and everywhere
as it seemed, were people from the States, emigrants
like those who followed John Mitchell, to the number,
I should say, of not less than two hundred, all expecting
to make homes in the Oregon country.
It saddened me to think of what was before these
people. To gain the banks of the Columbia River
they must travel more than two thousand miles, in
part over sandy plains, where would be found little
or no water for themselves and scanty feed for their
animals. There were rivers to be crossed where the
current ran so swiftly that a single misstep might
mean death. Mountain ranges were to be climbed
when even the strongest would find it difficult to
make progress, and all the while danger from wild
beasts or wilder men.
And it was I who must show these men when and
where to camp, how to bring down the game which
would be necessary for their very existence, and lead
them, in fact, as one might lead children.
THE START FROM INDEPENDENCE
We remained in camp by the creek until next morning,
and then our way lay over the rolling prairies,
where was grass on every hand and water in abundance,
yet we made only fifteen miles between eight
o'clock in the morning and within an hour of sunset,
owing to the awkwardness of those who were striving
to drive our few head of cattle.
Then came the first real camp, meaning the first
time we had halted where it was necessary to guard
everything we owned against the Indians, for we knew
full well there were plenty in the
vicinity of Independence, and I
strove my best to show
these people how an
encampment should be formed
on the prairie.
It was difficult to persuade John Mitchell that it
would be better to give the horses and mules a side
hobble, than to take chances of securing them by picket
ropes. I had always heard that by buckling a strap
around the fore and hind legs, on the same side, taking
due care not to chafe the animal's legs, he could not
move away faster than a walk, while if he was hobbled
by the forefeet only, it would be possible for him to
gallop after some practice.
There were many in our party who claimed it was a
useless precaution to hobble the horses, and insisted
on fastening them to picket pins, doing so in such
a slovenly manner that I knew if the animals were
stampeded they could easily make their escape.
Before morning came we had good proof that carelessness
in looking after the live stock at such a time
is much the same as a crime.
CARELESS TRAVELERS
When I proposed that watch be set around the
encampment during the night, every man, even including
John Mitchell, protested, saying it was a
needless precaution, that they were all needing sleep,
and there was no reason why any should stand guard
when they could look around on every hand and
make certain there was no one near to do them harm.
One of the women asked me if there might be any
danger from wild beasts, and when I told her we had
not yet come into that part of the country where
such game were found, every member of the company
believed I was only trying to show myself as the
commander.
I heard one of the men say grumblingly to another,
that he was not minded to put himself under the
orders of a boy who took pleasure in displaying his
authority even to the extent of making them stand
needless watch.
Never had I seen my father make camp, even though
no more than two miles from a fort or a settlement,
without carefully hobbling his horses, rounding up the
cattle, if he had any, and stationing
a picket guard,
insisting that those on
duty remain awake
during every hour of
the night.
Now, however, these
people from Indiana,
who knew nothing
whatsoever of traveling
in the wilderness,
claimed to have a
better idea of how camp should be guarded than did I,
who had already traversed the Oregon trail twice, and
I so far lost my temper as to make no reply, saying
to myself that if they were inclined to take desperate
chances, the loss would be theirs, not mine.
Mayhap if we had been farther along the trail
among the mountains, where the danger would be
greater if we lost all our animals, then for my mother's
sake I might have insisted strongly that the orders
which I gave should be obeyed.
As I have said, however, I held my peace, while
those foolish people lay down to sleep in their tents,
or in the wagon bodies, believing they were safe beyond
any possible chance of danger simply because of
being no more than seventeen miles from Independence.
I must say to John Mitchell's credit that he outfitted
me as he would have done an older guide, and set
apart for my especial use one of the small canvas tents.
Believing that my mother would have more comfort
by herself than if she shared a bed in one of the larger
tents, or in one of the wagons where so many must
sleep, I proposed that she use my camp, and we two
laid ourselves down that night feeling uncomfortable
in mind, for she understood quite as well as did I that
we were taking great chances at the outset of the
journey.
I had hobbled Napoleon securely, as you can well
fancy. In addition to that I had made him fast to a
picket pin firmly driven into the ground so there
might be no danger of his straying too far away.
It was not a simple matter to enjoy the resting
time, because of the weight of responsibility which
was upon me.
Even though John Mitchell's people were not inclined
to obey such orders as I saw fit to give, yet I
knew that in event of trouble they would cast all the
blame on my shoulders, and not until a full hour had
passed were my eyes closed in slumber.
OVERRUN BY WILD HORSES
It seemed as if I had hardly more than lost myself
in sleep when I was aroused by a noise like distant
thunder, and springing to my feet, as I had been
taught to do by my father at the first suspicious
sound, I stood at the door of the tent while one might
have counted ten, before realizing that a herd of those
wild ponies which are to be found now and then on
the prairies was coming upon us.
Once before in my life had I seen horses and cattle
stampeded by a herd of those little animals, and without
loss of time I rushed into the open air, shouting
loudly for the men to bear a hand, at the same time
discharging all the chambers of my weapon.
Unfortunately, however, I was too late to avert the
evil. If we had had a single man on guard he could
have given warning in time for us to have checked
the rush; but as it was the ponies were within the
encampment before I had emptied my weapon.
John Mitchell had not brushed the slumber from his
eyelids before the ponies overran the camp and passed
on at full speed, taking with them every horse, mule,
ox, and cow we had among us, save only Napoleon,
who would have joined in the flight had it been possible
for him to do so.
"What has happened? What was it?" John
Mitchell cried as he came running toward my tent
with half a dozen of the other men at his heels, and I
replied with no little bitterness in my tone:—
"A herd of wild ponies has stampeded every head
of stock, except Napoleon."
"But my horse was made fast," one man cried, as
if, because he had left the animal with his leading rope
around a picket pin loosely driven, it would have been
impossible for him to get away.
The driver of the four-mule team declared that his
stock could not have been run off because he had seen
to it that each animal was hitched securely, while a
third insisted that we must have been visited by the
Indians, who had frightened the beasts in order the
better to carry them away.
I could not refrain from saying what was true:—
"If we had had but one man on guard this could
not have happened. I tell you that the disturbance
this night was caused by a herd of wild ponies."
"Then why do we not go in search of the stock?"
John Mitchell cried, and I replied:—
"That you may do, if it please you; but I have
never yet seen the man who, on foot, could come up
with a horse that had joined the wild of his kind.
When the morning dawns, I will do all I can to aid in
gathering up the stock, but until then there is nothing
to be done."
Then, with much anger in my heart because this
thing had happened through sheer carelessness, I
went back into my tent, nor would I have more
to say to any member of the company, although no
less than half a dozen men stood outside asking this
question or that, all of which simply served to show
their folly.
SEARCHING FOR THE LIVE STOCK
When day broke John Mitchell was man enough
to meet me as I came out of my tent, and say in what
he intended should be a soothing tone:—
"I am willing to admit, lad, that we showed ourselves
foolish in not obeying your orders. From now
on you can make certain every man jack of us will
do whatsoever you say. Now tell us how we had
best set off in search of the stock."
"There is no haste. The horses and mules will
run with the ponies until they are tired and need food,
therefore we may eat our breakfast leisurely. My
advice is that the company get under way, moving a
few miles across the prairie to the next creek, while
all, save those needed to drive the teams, go with me."
"But we can't start a single wheel. There is no
ox, horse, or mule in the encampment," John Mitchell
cried, and then my face flushed with shame because
I had forgotten for the instant that we had no means
of breaking camp.
There is little need why I should spend many words
in telling of what we did during that day. Within
an hour we found one of the mules and succeeded in
getting hold of his leading rope. Before noon we had
overtaken all the cows and eight of the oxen, bringing
them back to camp while the wild ponies circled
around the prairie within seven or eight miles of us,
as if laughing to scorn our poor attempts to catch the
horses which they had stolen.
The afternoon was not yet half spent when we
succeeded in gathering up all our stock save two
horses and two mules, and then I insisted we should
go on without them.
"Between here and the Columbia River we shall
lose more stock than that," I said, "and if we are to
reach the Oregon country before winter sets in, such
misadventures as this must not be allowed to delay
us."
ABANDONING THE MISSING ANIMALS
I noted that more than one of the men wore a dissatisfied
look, as if believing we should remain at
this camp until all the stock had been found; but
mayhap they remembered that the loss was caused
by their not listening to me, and not a word was said
in protest.
Next day, without giving further heed to the horses
and mules that were with the pony herd, we pushed
forward toward the Oregon country once more, traveling
twenty-two miles and in the meanwhile crossing
the Wakarusa River.
Then came a stretch of prairie land, and after that,
near nightfall, we arrived at the Kansas River, where
camp was made.
This time you may set it down as certain that when
I claimed we ought to set a picket guard, there were
none to say me nay. Even more, I noticed that
every man carefully hobbled his horses or his mules,
as I hobbled Napoleon, and when I went into my tent
I said to myself that we need have no fear of trouble
that night.
When we started out next day, Susan Mitchell
insisted on riding by my side. She held her place
there until we made camp, although it was no slight
task, for while the company was passing over twenty
miles of distance, I had ridden from the front to the
rear of the train mayhap twelve times, thereby almost
doubling the length of the journey.
Not once did the plucky girl show signs of faltering,
even though a good half of the day's march was up
the side of a ridge and along the top of it, where the
way was hard even for those of us who were riding
light.
MEETING WITH OTHER EMIGRANTS
We were traveling within two or three miles of the
Kansas River, not yet having come to the ford, when
at about four o'clock in the afternoon we overtook a
company of people who were bound for the Oregon
country, having in their train twenty-eight wagons.
At first John Mitchell was eager to join the strangers
as they suggested; but he lost much of the desire on
being told that two miles in advance was another
party having nearly a hundred wagons. I really
believe the man grew confused when he learned there
were so many people on the Oregon trail.
When he asked my advice as to joining the larger
company, I told him that my father had ever said if
he could travel independently of any one else, it was
profitable for him to do so, for then he was forced
neither to go faster than he desired, nor remain idle
when it pleased him to push on.
I asked John Mitchell how much he could gain by
forming a small part of such a large company, unless,
perhaps, he intended to dismiss me as guide, whereupon
he assured me heartily that he had no such idea,
but it seemed to him we might join the strangers for
mutual assistance.
It was not for me to do more than offer advice,
and I told him that unless we came upon hostile Indians,
we had best continue on by ourselves, for the time
was coming, and not very far in the future, when we
should be put to it to find grass for the cattle and
fuel with which to cook our food. At such times the
smaller the company, the less chance for suffering.
It was Susan who settled the matter, for she said
very decidedly that I, who had already traveled over
the Oregon trail twice, ought to know more about
such affairs than any other in the company.
When she had spoken, her father held his peace as
if convinced that her words were wise.
We did not overtake the company of a hundred
wagons that night, but camped near a small brook
about four miles from the Kansas River, I having led
the people off the trail a mile or more so that we might
not be joined by those emigrants in the rear.
Next morning we traveled four miles to the river
ford, and there found the water already so high that
there was nothing to do but to ferry our wagons over
in a flatboat owned by a man named Choteau whom
I had already known in St. Louis.
He was no relative of that famous Choteau of the
fur company, but a very obliging Frenchman indeed,
who, because of his acquaintance with me, did all he
could to hasten our movements.
It was necessary we
have a friend in such work, for it was a hard task to
make the journey back and forth across that muddy
stream, which was at least two hundred and fifty
yards wide, when we could carry only one unloaded
wagon at a time.
A TEMPEST
It was nearly nightfall before we were all across with
our outfit and cattle, and then I gave the word that
we should encamp within a mile of the stream, for I
was not pleased with the appearance of dark clouds
which were rolling up from the west.
It would have been better had I halted the company
when we first crossed, for before we could get the
tents up and the wagons in place, a terrific storm of
thunder and lightning was upon us.
Instantly, as it seemed, our oxen and cows were
stampeded, rushing off across the prairie like
wild things, and although I did my best to
round them up, all efforts were vain.
There was nothing for it but
to let them go, and seek shelter
from the downpour
of water,
which was so heavy that at times one could hardly
stand against it.
Susan Mitchell had followed my mother into the
tent which I had taken care to set up immediately we
halted, and because there was no other shelter save
the overcrowded wagons, the girl was there when I
entered. It made my heart ache to see the evidences
of her fright. Well was it for her that she was with
my mother, for I truly believe none could have soothed
her fears so readily.
I left the two together while the storm was at its
height, and sought shelter in one of the wagons, believing
the tempest would continue to rage throughout
the night.
Next morning, before day had fully come, I aroused
all the men. We saddled our horses and set out in
search of the cattle, John Mitchell saying in a grumbling
tone as he rode forward, that it seemed to him as if
he was "doing more in the way of running down oxen
and cows, than in making any progress toward the
Oregon country."
Hardly realizing how true my words might prove to
be, I told him laughingly that we were likely to get
more of such work as the days wore on, rather than
less, and another four and twenty hours had not
passed before he came to believe that I was a true
prophet.
Not until noon did we succeed in getting all the
live stock rounded up, and I believed we were exceedingly
fortunate in not losing a single animal, for it
seldom happens, as I have heard, that cattle can be
stampeded during the night and every one brought
into camp next morning.
It was my belief that we ought to travel rapidly
during the afternoon and until a reasonably late hour
in the night, in order to make up the time we had
lost; but it is one thing to say and quite another
matter to accomplish.
FACING THE INDIANS
After traveling no more than three miles we arrived
at Big Soldier Creek. As Susan and I were riding
on in advance to make certain the ford was safe for
heavy wagons, I saw coming down over a slight incline
a band of mounted Indians, who immediately, on seeing
our company, came forward at full speed, brandishing
bows and arrows, or guns, accordingly as they were
armed, and yelling furiously.
Susan Mitchell screamed with fear, as well she
might; but I had already seen just such an Indian
maneuver and knew what it meant. I hurriedly told
her to ride back and join the company, while I held
Napoleon steady.
Their intention was to stampede the cattle, as I
well knew, and although it would have been unwise for
me to have sent a bullet among them, it was my purpose
to do so if I failed in checking their advance
otherwise.
Then Napoleon took the matter into his own hands,
or, I should say, his own feet, for when the Indians
were perhaps thirty yards away he wheeled about,
flinging up his heels as if he counted on kicking the
entire band over the ridge.
Do what I might I could not get the stubborn animal
wheeled around before the savages had rushed by
me, whooping and yelling in such a manner as caused
a panic among our company and a stampede of the
beasts.
The oxen wheeled around in the yokes until they
were so mixed up that the most expert would have
found it difficult to untangle them, while the cows,
their tails straight up in the air, fled back over the
trail, bellowing with fright.
TEACHING THE PAWNEES A LESSON
By the time all this mischief had been done, Napoleon
was ready to attend to his own business once more,
and I rode among the company to find the people in
such a state of panic and fear as one would hardly credit.
"Get your rifles and follow me!" I shouted as I
rushed forward, and it is quite certain that more than
one of the men cried after me
to come back, for all were so
terrified that they would have
suffered the loss of the stock rather than make any
attempt at reclaiming it.
It must not be supposed that I am trying to make
it appear as if I was wondrously brave in thus giving
chase. I knew from the experience gained while with
my father, that there is but one way to treat these
savages, and that is to put on a bold front.
After doing any mischief the Indians would go
farther and farther, until having accomplished all their
desires, if their victims made no attempt to defend
themselves; therefore it was necessary that we make
a decided stand.
I knew full well that if we pursued, these Pawnees,
as I judged them to be, would speedily be brought to
their senses. Whereas if we remained idle in camp
they would run off all the stock, and for us to lose that
herd of cows at the very outset of the journey would
indeed have been disastrous.
It was fortunate for those under my charge that
they followed as I commanded, even though they did
not do so willingly. When we had ridden at our
best pace six miles or more, we came upon all except
three of the cows who, wearied with their mad race,
were now feeding; but not a feather of an Indian
could be seen.
That the Pawnees knew we were coming in pursuit,
there could be no doubt, and because they were not
in war paint I understood that they must have an encampment
near by.
Therefore, as soon as we had rounded up the cattle,
I told John Mitchell it was our duty to search for the
Indian camp, and there demand that they return to
us, or aid us in searching for, the cows we failed to
find.
THE PAWNEE VILLAGE
The man looked at me uncertainly an instant, as if
questioning whether we had the pluck, as the Easterners
say, to ride into an Indian encampment. Then
he said grimly, almost as if doubting his own judgment:—
"I shall do as you say, boy; but if mischief comes
of it, remember that I hold you responsible."
"Mischief will surely come of it if we fail to put on
a bold front," I replied hotly, and then wheeling Napoleon
around, I sent him ahead under the whip,
which he richly deserved because, but for his foolish
trick of kicking, all this mischief might have been
spared us.
We rode through our encampment, for by this time
the lads and the women had set up some of the tents,
while one of the men who had remained behind was
straightening out the oxen, and from there on a distance
of about three miles, when we found that for
which we were searching.
It was a Pawnee village, and in it there might have
been forty men, women, and children, occupying say,
ten tepees, or lodges, while there were so many ponies
and dogs that one would hardly have had the patience
to count them.
We could see no signs of our cattle, nor did I expect
to find them there;
but, riding directly
into the center of the
village, I brought
Napoleon to a standstill, at the same time demanding
in the Pawnee language, or such smattering of it as
I could command, to be brought to the chief.
A BOLD DEMAND
Within a minute he came out from one of the lodges,
and it gave me more courage when I noted the fact
that he was looking disturbed in mind.
I demanded that he, or some of his tribe, return to
us the cows which had been driven away.
If there had ever been such a being as an honest
Indian, then I might have believed we had come upon
him, for this chief, knowing there were men enough
in our company to wipe out his entire band, declared
again and again, with no little show of innocence, that
neither he nor his young men had had anything to do
with our cattle.
Straightway I pointed here to one fellow and there
to another, as two whom I recognized among those
who had ridden over the ridge, and called the attention
of the chief to the ponies at the farther end of the
village, which were yet covered with perspiration.
Instead of staying there to parley with the fellows,
I insisted that the cows be brought to us before another
day had passed, and made many threats as to what
would happen in case my demands were not complied
with.
Then we rode out of the village. When we were
some distance away, John Mitchell asked in a bantering
tone if I really expected to see the cows again,
whereupon I told him we would not move from the
present encampment, save to punish the rascally
Pawnees, until every head of the three had been
brought to us.
Because he laughed I saw that he believed that he
never would see his cattle again; but I was better
acquainted with the Pawnees than he.
I GAIN CREDIT AS A GUIDE
Because of all that had happened I found no reason
to complain of the manner in which watch was kept
over the encampment that night, and at a fairly early
hour next morning, even before I had begun to expect
them, the Indians came into camp with two of the
cows. They talked much about their innocence so
far as causing a stampede and claimed that it was
not possible to find the third beast.
The Pawnee who acted as spokesman would have
tried to make me believe they were simply in sport
when they overrode our camp; but I let him know
that I was acquainted with such thievish tricks, and
threatened them as to the future, much as though I
had a company of soldiers at my back.
It may be that the Indians were not greatly
frightened by what I said; but certain it is that the
members of John Mitchell's company began to believe
that I was to be treated less like a boy, and more after
the manner of one who knew
somewhat regarding the work in
which we were engaged.
They gave more heed to
my words from that
time on, and Susan
Mitchell seemed to
think I had done
some wondrously
brave deed when I
frightened the cowardly
red men, or
attempted to; but
we never again saw that third cow.
I believe that the Pawnees had
hidden her, intending to have a great feast after we
had gone away; but I dared not go any farther in
the way of threats lest they openly defy me, when
I would have been powerless because the men of our
company were not equal to fighting the savages.
I could have told Susan that if we had come across
a party on the warpath, then my words would have
been laughed at, and I might have found myself in
serious trouble through making threats which could
not be carried into execution.
A DIFFICULT CROSSING
Because of having
been thus delayed
by waiting
for the cattle, we
traveled only five
miles on this day,
which, if I remember
rightly, was the 14th of
May. Then we arrived
where Big Soldier Creek
must be crossed, an undertaking
I had been
looking forward to with
no little anxiety because
the banks of the creek
are very steep and it is
impossible to drive either
mules or oxen down to the bed of the stream while
attached to the wagons.
We were forced to unyoke the oxen and unharness the
mules, after which we let the wagons down by means
of ropes, with four men to steer the tongue of each cart.
The ford was shallow, but on the other side the
banks loomed in front of us like the sides of a cliff.
In order to get even the lightest wagon to the top we
had to yoke all the oxen in one team, and even then
every man of us put his shoulder to the tailboard,
pushing and straining as we forced the heavy vehicle
straight into the air, as one might say.
One entire day was spent in crossing, and within an
hour of sunset we pitched our tents on the high banks,
where we let down buckets by ropes in order to get
water for cooking,—this method being easier than
scrambling up and down the steep incline.
Before night had come a party of about sixty from
the Ohio country joined us, having fifteen wagons.
They were unaccustomed to such traveling, as I
understood after seeing them make camp. When
the leader came up to John Mitchell, proposing that
we journey together from then onward, claiming that
by thus increasing the numbers each company would
be in greater security from the Indians, I gave my
employer a look which I intended should say that we
would travel as we had started, independently.
WASH DAY
From this point on to the Little Vermilion Creek
was eighteen miles over high, rolling prairie, and I
believed we ought to make it in one day's travel,
which we did.
We arrived at the creek about four o'lock in the
afternoon, and within thirty minutes it seemed as if
the banks of that small stream were literally lined
with fires, over each of which was suspended a kettle
filled with water. Tubs were brought out from all
the wagons, for the women of our company had decided
on making a "wash day" of the three or four hours
remaining before sunset.
On seeing that Susan Mitchell was not taking part
in this labor, I proposed that we ride five or six miles
onward, where I knew would be found quite a large
village of Kansas Indians. She was only too well
pleased with the proposition, even though having
been in the saddle since early morning.
To me one Indian village is much like another; but
before we had come to the end of our journey Susan
could point out the difference between a Kansas, a
Pawnee, a Cheyenne, or a Sioux tepee.
The Kansas Indians make their houses about thirty
feet in length by fifteen feet wide, and build them by
sticking hickory saplings firmly into the ground in
the shape of the lodge desired. These are bent to
form an arch eight to ten feet in height, when the tops
of the saplings are bound together by willow twigs.
This forms the inner framework, which is covered with
bark taken from linden trees; over this is another
frame of saplings, also tied with willows, to bind the
whole together securely and prevent the coverings
from being blown away during a high wind.
Each of these lodges has one small door about four
feet in height and three feet wide, while at the top of
the hut is an opening for the smoke to pass out, when
a fire is built in the center of the floor during cold or
stormy weather.
INDIAN PICTURES
There were in the village when we arrived but few
women and children, with here and there an old man,
all the hunters having gone out, as I learned, hoping
to find antelopes near at hand.
Understanding by this information that there would
be no attempt made to hinder us from gratifying our
curiosity, I led Susan into one of the largest of the
empty lodges. She was filled with wonder because
of the pictures, drawn with charcoal and colored with
various paints, which were to be seen on the inside of
the bark walls.
There were mounted men fighting with bows and
arrows, horses hauling wagons, figures of beasts and
reptiles, all done as one can well fancy in a rude way;
but to Susan they afforded no little amusement, and
she would have remained studying them until after
nightfall, had I
not insisted that we
must return to camp
before darkness.
It was an odd picture which
our encampment presented
when we rode in just at twilight.
The women had
finished their washing, and,
having no ropes on which to
stretch their clothes, had
hung them on wagon wheels and the
tongues of the carts, in fact, on everything available,
until the entire place had much the appearance of a
gigantic, ragged ghost.
Because so much time was spent next morning in
gathering up these garments and packing them away,
we traveled only twelve miles, arriving at the bank
of a small stream with all the animals, save the saddle
horses, showing signs of weariness.
I insisted we should take a day for resting the cattle,
although John Mitchell would have pushed on, regardless
of their condition; but I knew we must keep
them in good shape, else when we arrived at the more
difficult portion of the journey they would fail us
entirely. Perhaps because of our experience with the
Indians, the men failed to grumble at the delay.
A PLAGUE OF WOOD TICKS
Every member of the party was not only willing,
but eager, to set out after our long halt, for we had a
most disagreeable experience with wood ticks, little
insects much like those that worry sheep. They
covered every bush as with a veil and lay like a carpet
over the ground as far as one could see.
I have never come upon them in such numbers, and
before we lay down to rest I wished a dozen times
that I had delayed the halt another day.
These ticks fasten themselves to a person's skin so
tightly that, in picking them off, the heads are often
left embedded in the flesh, and unless carefully removed,
cause most painful sores. It was like one of the
Plagues of Egypt such as I have heard my mother
read about, and so much did our people suffer that
John Mitchell came to me in the middle of the night,
urging that we break camp at once rather than remain
there to be tortured.
I soon convinced him that we could not hope to
drive the cattle in the darkness, without danger of
losing one or more, therefore he ceased to urge; but
before the sun had risen, all our company were astir
making preparations for the day's journey.
Early though it was when we set off, only fourteen
miles were traveled, owing to the difficulty in crossing
the Big Vermilion River.
The banks of the stream were steep and the channel
muddy, affording such difficult footing for the animals
that we were forced to hew down many small trees
and lop off large quantities of branches to fill up the
bed of the river before the wagons could be hauled
across. All this occupied so much time that after
arriving at the opposite bank we traveled only one
mile before it was necessary to make camp.
On this night we were not troubled by wood ticks,
yet I had the camp astir early next morning, knowing
that before nightfall we must cross the Bee and the Big
Blue Creeks, therefore much time would be spent in
making the passages.
The difficulties which I had anticipated in crossing
the creeks were not realized. We got over in fairly
good shape, being forced on Bee Creek to double
up the teams in order to pull the wagons across, and
when night came we were two and a half miles west
of Big Blue.
There I believed we should make a long halt, for the
country was covered with oak, walnut, and hickory
trees, and, if I remembered rightly, this would be
the last time we could procure timber for wagon
tongues, axletrees, and such other things as might be
needed in case of accidents.
ANOTHER TEMPEST
It was well we came to a halt early, for the tents
were no more than up and the wagons not yet drawn
in a circle to form a corral for the horses, before the
most terrific storm of rain I ever experienced burst
upon us.
The women had but just begun to cook supper. The
first downpour from the clouds quenched the fires,
making literal soup of the bread dough, and it was
only by building a small blaze under one of the
wagons, where it would be partly sheltered from
the storm, that we could get sufficient heat to make
coffee.
Before this was done—and nearly all us men took
part in it, for the storm was so furious that the women
could not be expected to remain exposed to its full
fury—no less than two hours were spent, and I had
almost forgotten that the encampment and all within
it were under my charge.
THE CATTLE STAMPEDED AGAIN
Each moment the storm increased, and had I been
attending to my duties instead of trying to play the
part of cook in order to enjoy a cup of coffee, I would
have noticed that the cattle were growing uneasy.
After standing with their tails to the storm for a while,
they began milling, that is running around in a circle,
and by the time I gathered my wits every animal was
galloping off across the plain.
Fortunately the horses and mules were properly
hobbled, and, in fact, some of the saddle beasts had
been brought into the corral formed by the wagons;
therefore when John Mitchell would have set off in
pursuit of the oxen and cows despite the terrific storm,
I insisted that he take such ease in camp as was possible
because on the following morning we, mounted,
would quickly round up the stampeded cattle.
It was a most dismal night, and for the first time
since leaving their homes these people, who were setting
their faces toward the Oregon country, had a
fair taste of what hardships awaited them.
So furious was the wind that the rain found entrance
to every camp and beneath each wagon cover,
until beds and bedding were saturated.
Welcome indeed was the morning to my mother
and me, for our tent stood in a tiny pond when the
day broke, and we waded out to a higher bit of ground,
where the gentle summer breeze, now that the storm
had cleared away, might dry our water-soaked clothing.
Without waiting for breakfast I saddled Napoleon,
calling upon the men to follow me, and within four
hours we had rounded up and brought into camp the
missing animals.
Then came a hasty meal, and I gave the word to
break camp, whereupon John Mitchell reminded me
that we were to take in a store of oak and hickory
timber for future needs; but I insisted that we push
on a short distance, knowing that this wooded country
extended ten or twelve miles farther westward,
where I hoped to find higher ground, so we might be
able to camp with some comfort.
DIFFICULT TRAVELING
The trail was heavy. The rain had so softened the
ground that the wagon wheels sank several inches
into it, and many times before nightfall we were
forced to hew trees and cut large quantities of brush,
in order to fill up the depressions in the way where
the water stood deep and the bottom was much like a
bog.
Again and again we found it necessary to double
up the teams in order to haul the heavy wagons over
the spongy soil, and after we had traveled eight miles
with more labor than on the previous day we had
expended in going twice that distance, we decided to
encamp.
We were on reasonably high ground, or, in other
words, we were not in a quagmire, and after camp
had been made I counted that we would spend the
following day in getting as much hickory and oak
timber as we might need when we came to the mountain
ranges, where axletrees, wagon tops, and even
the wheels themselves, were likely to be splintered
because of the roughness of the way.
Next morning while the men were hewing trees
and shaping them roughly into such forms as might
come convenient, the women took advantage of the
opportunity to churn, and at noon we had fresh
butter on our bread, which was indeed a luxury.
We were yet eating slowly in order the better to
enjoy the butter, when we saw in the distance, coming
toward us, what appeared to be a large body of soldiers
and emigrants.
COLONEL KEARNY'S DRAGOONS
Among the foremost of the horsemen who came
up and halted near us, was Colonel Stephen W. Kearny
who, with three hundred dragoons, nineteen wagons
drawn by mules, fifty head of cattle, and twenty-five
sheep, was making the first military campaign into
the Far West, in order properly to impress the Indians
with the strength and power of the Great Father at
Washington.
Colonel Kearny would not permit his train to halt
where we were encamped, but he remained with us a
full half hour, taking his due share of the newly made
butter, and eating heartily of our poor store.
It was a most pleasing break in the journey, and
to me it was indeed something to be remembered,
for never before had I seen or heard of such a number
of soldiers so far away from the frontier.
When we set off again all our teamsters pressed
forward eagerly, hoping to overtake the dragoons,
who had already no less than two hours' start
of us.
Perhaps I ought to have checked them, knowing
they were forcing our stock at too rapid a pace; but
yet I did not, and when next we halted thirty-two
miles had been traversed since morning. This, though
the way was smooth and the crossings easy, I allowed
was a good day's work.
It was on the twenty-sixth day of May, after we
had traveled ten miles, that we came to the bank of
Little Sandy River, where was already encamped a
company of emigrants bound for the Oregon country.
They had thirty-two wagons, and, in addition to the
other stock, ninety cows, having started from Independence
with a hundred.
Susan Mitchell laughed with glee when we arrived
at this camp and, when I asked the reason for her high
spirits, told me our people could spend the evening
visiting these strangers even as they visited their
neighbors at home. Indeed, I saw that all the members
of the company were prinking and pluming
like a party of savages making ready for a war
dance.
Men whose clothing had been well-nigh in rags
suddenly appeared decked out in finery, and as for
the women and the girls, a garden of flowers could
hardly have compared with them for variety of colors.
DISAGREEABLE VISITORS
However, our company did not spend the evening
visiting the strangers; on the contrary, they were
forced to entertain others, for before supper had been
cooked and eaten about three hundred Kansas Indians,
men, women, and children, some walking, some riding,
came into camp.
The emigrants whom our people had intended to
visit were overrun even as we were, and during two
hours or more the beggars remained watching for an
opportunity to steal something, or striving to trade
their skeleton-like ponies for our horses and mules.
Some of the visitors were clad in buckskin, others
had leggings of elk hide, with buffalo skins over their
shoulders, while many wore only greasy, ragged
blankets and leggings so besmeared with blood and
dirt that one could not tell what the material might
be.
Many of the men had long hair, while the heads
of others were shaved close to the skin, save for a tuft
extending from the forehead over the crown and
down to the neck, much like the comb of a rooster.
Some had their faces painted in a fanciful manner
with red, while others had only their eyelids and lips
colored. Again, there were those with various colored
noses or ears, and I failed to see any two who were
decked out, either with garments or by paint, in the
same manner.
The costumes and decorations of the women were
as varied as those of the men, and equally filthy.
All, from the smallest papoose to the oldest brave,
were repulsive, at least to me, because of their uncleanliness.
DRIVING AWAY THE INDIANS
How long those representatives of the Kansas tribe
would have remained with us awaiting an opportunity
to steal whatever they might, I cannot say; but at
about eight o'clock John Mitchell urged that I drive
them away, if indeed I dared. This last suggestion
caused me to smile, for what fellow would not dare
anything among the Kansas Indians, who know no
more of courage than they do of cleanliness?
I speedily sent them out of the camp, and when,
next morning, the whole tribe returned begging this
or that, I threatened punishment to any who should
dare linger around.
Again we had an opportunity to join forces with
another company, for those emigrants whom we met
at Little Sandy River were eager to journey with us,
but intended to remain one full day on the bank of
the stream in order to rest their stock.
I urged that we push on, lest they should travel
with us whether we wished or not, and so we set off
at an early hour across the prairie, arriving next day
at the Republican Fork of the Blue River.
It was on the last day of May that we came to
where the trail turns abruptly away from the stream,
stretching out twenty-five miles or more to the Platte
River.
Then we advanced in wild, fertile bottoms, where
wild peas abounded, and we were among the last of
the oak and hickory trees that we would see for many
a long day.
TURKEY HUNTING
Here I knew we might find game, and said to those
men who had been eagerly inquiring day after day as
to when we would come upon buffaloes,
that now was the time when they
could display their skill in bringing
down wild turkeys.
I had supposed
that these people
knew somewhat
about hunting; but
when one of the men
turned upon me
sharply, asking how
I knew turkeys could
be found near about,
I nearly laughed in his face. For it seemed to me
that a child should have known we were come at
last to where game of some sort might be taken easily.
I had no idea of hunting turkeys, for I knew that
within the next few hours there should be a possibility
of bringing down as many antelopes as Napoleon
would be willing to carry.
Therefore I remained in camp, and saw those eager
hunters striding off amid the timber, making noise
enough to warn every fowl or beast of their coming.
The wonder of it was that the fellows brought in a
feather; yet at night they returned triumphant and
excited, with two turkeys, and one would have believed,
from the way the game was displayed, that
they had shown great skill.
When Susan Mitchell asked why I did not go out
in search of game, I told her it was not for me to spend
my time in such sport, but that before many days
had passed I would show her what a hunter could
and should do in this country.
It may be she thought I was boasting, and I fancied
I read as much on her face; but I contented myself
in silence, knowing that she soon would see what
kind of hunting those, who have crossed from the
Missouri River into the Oregon country twice, could
do.
EAGER HUNTERS
Next day every man and boy in our company was
looking eagerly forward for signs of game, and when,
the afternoon being nearly spent, they saw large
herds of antelopes in the distance, it was only with
difficulty I could force the teamsters to remain on
their wagons.
Every horseman would have set off at that time in
the afternoon with weary steeds, when there was no
possibility of
running down
the game,
had it not
been for John Mitchell,
who, after talking with
me, insisted that no man
should leave the company until we had made camp.
The Platte River was to be crossed before we halted,
and we needed every man with us, for I knew that
the bottom of the stream was soft, and the chances
many that we would be forced to double up our teams.
However, we gained the opposite bank without
much difficulty and were hardly more than ready to
encamp, after having traveled eighteen or nineteen
miles, when it began to rain once more, and then the
men were glad that they had not set off to hunt at
nightfall.
We camped where it would be possible for us to
get water without too much labor, and set about
gathering fuel before everything was soaked by the
rain, and darkness was upon us.
Then the men began to treat me as if I was of their
own age. They came into my tent by twos and
threes, asking when it would be possible for them to
hunt antelopes, and when I would go with them to
bring in fresh meat.
I told them that on the next day they should have
all the hunting that would satisfy them and their
horses, and this caused them to wonder how I knew
antelopes might be near at hand.
ANTELOPE COUNTRY
Next morning, when we had traveled no more than
six miles, any hunter could see that we were in a
game country, and because our people were really
in need of fresh meat, to say nothing of the desire of
the men for sport, I gave the word to halt and make
camp.
John Mitchell angrily demanded why I had halted
the company before the forenoon was half spent.
When I told him that here was our opportunity to
get antelope steaks for supper, he looked at me as if
he believed I was talking of something wholly beyond
my knowledge. I have an idea he would have countermanded
my order to form camp, insisting that we
move on, had not his wife suggested that now we were
so near the river, where the bank was shelving instead
of steep, it would be a good time for the women to
finish washing their clothing.
After she had spoken he said to me:—
"Very well, lad, you may show the other men your
antelopes. I have no desire for a wild-goose chase
across the prairie."
I gave little heed to his banter, and those who had
been so eager for the hunt were right willing to follow
me on the chance that they might come upon something
that could be killed; John Mitchell finally consented
to go with us, in order, as he said, to hear what
sort of excuse I would make for not finding game.
We rode straight away from the river, and within
half an hour came upon a herd of from twenty to
thirty antelopes feeding less than three miles away,
whereupon every member of the company would have
started off singly, taking the poor chances of getting
a shot, had I not insisted they should hold themselves
under my orders, lest there be no possibility of bringing
in fresh meat that day.
"You made a good guess, lad," John Mitchell said
to me, as if he was disappointed because we had brought
the game to view, and I replied:—
"Any one familiar with this country may say with
reasonable certainty that he will find deer in such
and such a place without first having seen any signs.
With buffaloes it is different. But on feeding grounds
like this, one can declare positively that he will come
upon some kind of deer without riding very far."
SHOOTING ANTELOPES
Then I gave the word for the men to divide into
two parties, one going to the right and the other to
the left toward the herd, in order to come up with
them on both sides at the same moment, and the
silly animals did not note our approach until we were
within half a mile.
Then they showed how rapidly they could run.
I have never seen antelopes in full flight without
thinking how nearly alike they are to swallows, both
for swiftness and the manner in which they bound
over the ground without
seeming to touch it. There
are not many horses that
can come up
with this game
once the fleet
animals have been
aroused; but I
knew my pony could gain upon
them in a chase of five miles or
less, and straightway urged him on, shouting for the
others to follow.
It was like horses accustomed to the plow striving to
keep the pace with a blooded racer, when we struck off
across the plains, and before two miles had been traversed,
my companions were left so far in the rear that there
was little chance they could take any part in this sport.
I urged Napoleon on until we were in fairly good
range, when, firing rapidly, I brought two of the
beautiful creatures to the ground.
There was no possibility of overtaking the herd,
once having halted, so swinging the game across the
saddle in front of me, I let my pony walk leisurely
back to where the men waited, each of them looking
with envious eyes at the result of the chase.
Within half an hour after our return to camp, five
or six fires had been built, and our people were busily
engaged in cooking the fresh meat, which was so welcome
to them, giving little or no heed to anything
save the preparations for a feast. Suddenly a single
Indian of the Pawnee tribe stood before us, having
ridden up without attracting the attention of any
member of the company.
A PAWNEE VISITOR
It was the first time such a thing had ever occurred
while I was supposed to be on duty, and I said to
myself that until we had come into the Oregon country
and I had said good-by to these people, I should never
again be caught off guard.
The Indian who had thus surprised me was as fine
a specimen of a Pawnee as I have ever seen. He was
tall, had a good figure, and rode a handsome pony
which was really fat,—something seldom come upon,
for the Indians do not generally allow their horses
to take on very much flesh.
He wore a calico shirt, buckskin leggings, and
fancifully decorated moccasins. It would seem as if
he had set himself up as a trader in footgear, for he
carried with him half a dozen or more pairs
of moccasins, some of them well worn, which
he wanted to trade for meat.
Our people were so foolish as
to bargain with him, when, had
they been content to wait a few
days longer, until we were in a
country abounding with game,
they might have made any number
of pairs out of fresh hides.
This fellow remained in camp
after having disposed of his
wares, until he had eaten
three times as much as could
any member of our company,
going from camp fire to camp fire and gorging himself
as an Indian will, until it was only with difficulty
that he could mount his pony.
I felt more at ease when the fellow had left us, for
I never see one of his race hanging around an encampment
without good reason for believing he is trying
to steal something; but the women of our company
were saddened because he went so soon, and I verily
believe they would have served him with another
feast had it been possible for him to eat more.
There was, perhaps, some petulance in my tones
when I told Susan Mitchell that she need not feel
badly because he had taken his departure so soon, for
before arriving at the Oregon country she would
come across Indians to her heart's content, and perhaps
to her heart's sorrow.
I little dreamed how soon my words were to come
true, although knowing that we would meet more red
people than white during the remainder of the journey;
but next day, when we had traveled perhaps eight
miles and were halted at noon that the women might
prepare dinner, our company saw Indians in a way
which was, during a few moments, anything rather
than pleasant.
THE PAWNEES TRY TO FRIGHTEN US
We had camped in a slight depression of the prairie,
and were just about eating the noonday meal, when
the distant trampling of hoofs told me that a party
of some considerable size was approaching.
I had barely time to spring to my feet before twenty-three
mounted Pawnees, all armed with bows and
arrows, rode up over the crest of land, halting there
an instant as if to measure our strength.
Because they were not in full paint, I understood
that it was a hunting party, and therefore I gave the
word for our men to arm themselves without delay,
for it is true that in the wilderness one expects the
savages will take advantage of any opportunity to
work mischief.
John Mitchell was not disposed to obey the command,
fearing lest if we made any show of warlike
preparations it would only incite the Indians to anger,
but, fortunately, the other men did as I told them.
Marshaling this little force, I moved out from
among the wagons, bidding every
fellow to stand firm,
while I motioned for
the savages to keep
back. However,
they urged their ponies
on at full speed, riding
toward us like fiends, and,
as I knew very well, striving
to throw us into a
panic, in which case
there is no question
but that they would have plundered
the camp.
Because I was the guide, it was necessary for me to
take on the greater share of the danger, and, stepping
four or five paces in advance of my comrades, I made
signs for the savages to keep away, at the same time
leveling my rifle.
The band was coming down upon us at the full
speed of their ponies, when I thus gave evidence that
it was my intention to fire if they continued, and immediately
the horses were checked, the band riding
off toward the south, leaving the leader behind.
DEFENDING OURSELVES
Dismounting, while the others wheeled about to
join him again, he came toward me, his eyes roving
from one member of our company to the other, as if
to learn whether we had backbone enough to stand
up for our rights.
He must have understood that we would put up
with no foolishness, for straightway all his show of
fierceness vanished. He told me that his party had
been out hunting buffaloes, but failed to come across
any, and then begged like a dog for us to give him food.
To have admitted such a crowd into our encampment
would have been giving them a license
to plunder, therefore I warned the fellow off.
I insisted that they go back to their village,
where, beyond doubt, they would
find food if they were very hungry.
John Mitchell would have argued with me because
I was turning hungry people away; but I refused to
listen to him, and put on such a bold front that without
further parley the leader mounted his pony, and
away they went over the ridge, much to my relief.
When we were making camp that night a party of
emigrants, numbering no less than fifty, all bound
for the Oregon country, came up with us.
Instead of halting as one might have supposed, for a
quiet chat, they rode on as though fearing we might
want to join them, and I said to myself that their
guide must be one who, like myself, had already
traversed the Oregon trail; yet I was pleased because
of their desire to continue on alone.
SCARCITY OF FUEL, AND DISCOMFORT
We made only twelve miles on this day, and then
camped on the open prairie where we were sadly in
need of fuel, being obliged to scrape up dried grass
and gather even the tiniest twigs. The scarcity of
fuel was no more than might have been expected, for
now we were coming to that part of the country where
wood was a rarity.
Next day the wind blew strong and cold from the
northwest, and the cattle hurried onward in order,
as it seemed, to keep up a circulation of the blood,
therefore before we encamped, our party had advanced
twenty miles nearer our destination; but all
the men and boys were decidedly uncomfortable in
body.
We had crossed five or six creeks which were no
more than half their usual height; but the beds of
the streams were so soft that we were forced again
and again to wade in that we might lay our shoulders
to the wheels when the wagons
were stuck fast in the mire.
To work in water
nearly above your
waist for half an hour
or more until
having become
thoroughly
heated and
then come out into that chilling wind, was indeed a
hardship.
During the next day, which was the 7th of June,
we saw the first signs of buffaloes, and then indeed
our hunters were wild to go out and kill some of the
huge animals, insisting that I lead the party.
Through these bottom lands, which were from two
to four miles wide, there ran in every direction buffalo
paths, which had been traversed so often by the animals
that they were no less than fifteen inches wide
and four inches deep in the solid earth, and as smooth
as if cut out with a spade.
Although we knew that buffaloes ranged in this
region, it would indeed have been folly to set off,
especially at nightfall, with the idea that we might
find a herd, and so I told the eager ones, who grumbled
not a little, believing I refused to lead them in the
chase because of my own indolence.
LAME OXEN
When we made camp, after having traveled sixteen
miles, John Mitchell called my attention to the fact
that our oxen were growing lame, and he seemed quite
vexed because I treated it as a matter of course.
Any one who has traveled from the Missouri River
to the Oregon country, knows that while crossing the
prairies, which are covered with a dry stubble of
matted grass, the hoofs of the animals will become
hard and crack, thus allowing dirt to collect in the
crevices until the leg above the hoof swells, and sometimes
festers.
There is only one way to treat this trouble, which
is to wash thoroughly in water made very strong with
soap, and then scrape away all the diseased part of
the hoof, after which tar, or hot pitch, should be
applied freely.
Our men should have looked after the feet of the
animals, but perhaps because that required too much
labor, they had allowed the poor beasts to go neglected,
and now had come the time when, unless
they set about it manfully, our journey to the Oregon
country might be ended suddenly.
AN ARMY OF EMIGRANTS
That evening, while every man was working for the
relief of the oxen, three companies of emigrants, one
after another, came up and encamped within half a
mile of us, until we had close under our eyes, belonging
to these strangers, more than a hundred wagons.
There were in the first company fifty-two wagons,
each drawn by four yoke of cattle; the smallest company
had thirteen wagons in its train, therefore you
can understand that we were almost an army.
Now John Mitchell and Susan understood why I
had protested against joining forces with any of the
companies we came across, for at this place the grass
was scanty indeed, with many animals to feed upon
it, and we had the greatest difficulty to find for our
beasts as much food as they were needing.
I insisted on pulling out at an early hour next morning,
in order to get ahead of this army of emigrants,
and we traveled all day without finding better food
for the cattle, encamping at night, after having
journeyed twelve miles, with the knowledge that
every beast we owned was sadly in need of something
to eat.
One train of the emigrants which we had left behind,
numbering forty-three wagons, came within
sight of our camp that night just at sunset and, finding
the grass poor where we had halted, continued on;
but I knew full well there were not hours enough of
daylight remaining for them to find better pasturage.
When another day dawned the rain was falling
heavily, and even John Mitchell proposed that we
remain in camp, rather than attempt to push on; but
when I reminded him that the oxen and cows were
straying here and there, striving eagerly to pick up a
few scanty blades of grass, he held his peace.
We continued the journey while floods of water came
down from the clouds,
until before we were half
an hour on the way every one, save
the women and children, who were protected by the
wagon covers, was drenched.
After traveling fifteen miles, we encamped where
the ground was so sodden that our feet sank into the
soil two inches or more; however, we gained such
shelter as we could under the wagon bodies or beneath
the wagon coverings, striving to sleep while the wind
drove the rain in upon us like a shower bath.
We could not well put up the tents in such mire,
and it was more comfortable pacing to and fro as if
doing sentry duty, than lying at full length in a veritable
swamp.
Again we set out with the rain coming down as if
it would never cease, passing village after village of
prairie dogs; but the children and the women showed
no desire to spend any time looking at them, for all
our company were in such discomfort that it would
have needed something more than an ordinary animal
to entice them out of their way a dozen paces.
Not until we arrived at the lower crossing of the
Platte River did the storm of rain subside, and while
we were striving to get the wagons across, the sun
came out with full strength, making matters quite as
uncomfortable for us who labored, as when the torrents
of water were pouring down upon our bodies.
THE BUFFALO COUNTRY
At this crossing the water was from one to three
feet deep and the bed of the river sandy, therefore
in order to get our wagons over it was necessary to
double up the teams, and in some cases put on twelve
or fourteen yoke of oxen, all of which required considerable
time.
When we were on the other side of the river, and
our men so weary that they spent but little time making
camp, in order the sooner to throw themselves
down to rest, I aroused them to the highest pitch of
excitement by announcing that now we were in a
buffalo country, and that before many hours had
passed they should have as many short ribs, humps,
and tongues for roasting as could be eaten at one meal,
however hungry they were.
As if some magic change had been wrought, every
man sprang to his feet, insisting that we go at once
in search of the game; but I held firm, claiming that
the horses were far too weary to take part in a
hunt.
Before the next day had fully dawned, the men
who were standing guard aroused the camp by shouting
excitedly that we were
surrounded by buffaloes.
It was not a very great
surprise to me that the huge beasts should come
so near the camp, for I had heard from men who
traveled over the Santa Fe trail that the buffaloes
would often mingle with straggling cows, and more
than once had emigrants lost their live stock by
having the animals literally forced away by these big
brutes.
HUNTING BUFFALOES
It was a difficult matter to restrain the hunters
who were bent on starting off on the instant, believing
they could kill a buffalo with but little effort, if one
came within range.
To bring a buffalo down, one must shoot him in
the lungs. To hit the skull is much like sending a
bullet against a rock, for it has no other effect than to
excite the animal, and oftentimes even then not very
much. Of course if a hunter can send a ball through
the brute's heart, that settles the matter, but it is a
difficult shot.
I did my best to explain how they ought to shoot
in order to kill, and then, finding they were not inclined
to heed my words, I proposed that we set off,
each going his own way and doing the work after
his own fashion.
It caused me to smile when I saw those men creeping
up on some old bull, whose flesh was so dry and
tough that none save a starving man would eat it;
but they seemed to think it was size that counted.
Knowing that now was the time when I could again
profit by my experience as a hunter and trapper, I
went off in chase of a couple of young cows, and within
thirty minutes had them stretched out on the prairie.
Meanwhile I believe that no less than a hundred shots
had been fired by the other members of the company;
but I failed to see that any of them had been successful.
John Mitchell and one of the men who went out
with him succeeded in killing an old bull, and although
during three hours of that forenoon there
were hundreds of buffaloes in sight, all our company
took from that vast
herd were the two cows I had
killed and the tough old fellow
that had fallen under John
Mitchell's rifle.
Because Susan's father did not call upon me for
advice as to how his share of the game should be cut
up ready for cooking, I held my peace, but set about
taking the flesh from each side of the spine, from the
shoulders to the rump, of the two animals I had killed.
Afterward I cut out the tongue and the hump ribs,
while those two men were hacking at their game, apparently
believing his flesh should be treated after
the same manner as that of a stall-fed ox.
While I was making ready some of the hump ribs
for roasting, my mother came to my side, saying, as
she pointed to our companions:—
MY MOTHER'S ADVICE
"It pains me to see these people heedless of that
which they must meet with before we can arrive at
the Oregon country. They
who complain bitterly because
the sun falls upon them too
warmly, or that the ford is
very deep, hope to make
their way to that far-off
land with no more
labor and no
more suffering
than they have
already experienced
since we
left Independence."
"They will soon learn, mother," I said laughingly,
and yet in my heart was sorrow for the people whom
I had so lately come to know, because of the lesson
that was before them. "The one fear is that when
we come to the mountains, when we must fight with
all our strength to gain a half mile in this direction
or a mile in that, camping without food and without
fuel, whether they will keep on or grow disheartened
and turn back."
"I cannot understand, my son, that you need feel
anxious. Do your duty by them as you have agreed,
and even though we are forced to come straight away
back over the trail, it will be through no fault of
yours."
I have allowed myself to set down details concerning
this journey of ours into the Oregon country as
if there was ample time at my disposal; yet if I am
to tell all the story of that long ***, and then
attend to the work which I have taken upon myself,
it is necessary I hasten in the recital, instead of striving
to give the particulars of each day's march.
After leaving the camp where we had killed the
buffaloes, we found the traveling good, grass plenty,
and game so abundant that one might go out and
shoot whatever he needed of buffaloes, antelopes, or
elks, without spending very much time at the work,
providing he was reasonably expert with his rifle.
ASH HOLLOW POST OFFICE
Susan rode with me, as she had from the beginning
of the journey. Nothing of note happened to us, unless
I should set down that this day was stormy,
and on that day the sun shone, until we came into
the valley of the North Fork of the Platte, through a
pass which is known as Ash Hollow.
There we drove down a dry ravine on our winding
way to the river bottoms, stopping now and then to
gather a store of wild currants
and gooseberries which
grew in abundance.
Near the mouth of
the ravine we came
upon a small log cabin,
which had evidently
been built by trappers,
but the emigrants
on their way
into the Oregon
country had converted
it into a
post office, by sticking
here and there,
in the crevices of
the logs, letters to
be forwarded to their friends in the
States. Hung on the wall where all
might see it, was a general notice requesting
any who passed on their way to the Missouri
River to take these missives, and deposit them in the
nearest regular post office.
The little cabin had an odd appearance, and Susan
confessed that, almost for the first time since leaving
Independence, she was growing homesick, solely because
of seeing this *** post office.
After crossing the stream we came upon a party of
emigrants from Ohio, having only four wagons drawn by
ten yoke of oxen, and driving six cows.
Truly it was a small company to set out on so long
a march, and when the leader begged that they be
allowed to join us, I could not object, understanding
that unless the strangers had some one of experience
to guide them, the chances were strongly against
their arriving at the Columbia River.
NEW COMRADES
There was in the company a girl of about Susan's
age, whose name was Mary Parker, and from that
time I had two companions as I rode in advance of
the train.
I could have found no fault with these new members
of our company, for they obeyed my orders without
question from the oldest man to the youngest child.
Mary Parker was a companionable girl, and she
and Susan often cheered me on the long way, for even
when the rain was coming down in torrents, drenching
them to the skin, they rode by my side, laughing and
singing.
On the twenty-fourth day of June we arrived at
Fort Laramie, in the midst of a heavy storm of rain,
thunder, and lightning. We had traveled six hundred
sixty-seven miles since leaving Independence, if our
course had been the most direct; but allowing for
the distances some of us had ridden in search of cattle
or here and there off the trail looking for a camping
place it must have been that we made at least a hundred
miles more.
FORT LARAMIE
Fort Laramie is on the west side of a stream known
as Laramie's Fork and about two miles from the
Platte River. It is a trading post belonging to the
North American Fur Company, and built of adobe,
by which I mean sun dried bricks, with walls not less
than two feet thick and twelve or fourteen feet high,
the tops being well guarded by long, sharp spikes to
prevent an enemy from climbing over.
This fort, if it can be called such, is simply a wall
inclosing an open square of twenty-five yards each
way, along the sides of which are the dwellings, storerooms,
blacksmith shops, carpenter shops, and offices
all fronting inside, while from the outside can be seen
only two gates, one of which faces the north and the
other the south.
Just south of the fort is a wall inclosing about an
acre of land, which is used as a stable or corral, while
a short distance farther on is a cultivated field, the
scanty crops of which give good evidence that the soil
is not suitable for farming.
About a mile below Fort Laramie, and having
much the same appearance as that fortification, although
not so large, is Fort John, which is in possession
of the St. Louis Fur Company.
We were given quarters inside Fort Laramie, which
was much to our liking, for it would have been more
than disagreeable had we been forced to camp outside
the walls, where were, when we arrived, at least
three thousand Sioux Indians. Their buffalo-skin
lodges dotted the plain all around the fort until one
could have well fancied there were three times the
real number in the neighborhood, and it was as if
their tepees were countless, although John Mitchell
was told that they had no more than six hundred.
I learned shortly after our arrival that the Sioux
had gathered here for the purpose of making ready
to attack the tribes of the Snakes and Crows, and
they had but just finished their war dance when we
came up, seemingly having no regard for the violent
storm which was raging.
Even as we drove into the fort the water was descending
from the clouds in torrents, but there were
hundreds of these savages dancing and singing, and
in various ways striving to show their joy because a
war was about to be begun against their enemies.
A SIOUX ENCAMPMENT
A Sioux lodge is made of poles lightly stuck into
the ground, in a circle of about ten feet in diameter;
the tops come together within less than twelve
inches, this opening being left for the smoke to pass
out, because in stormy weather the Sioux women do
all their cooking under cover, when a fire is built in
the center of the tepee. Herein they differ considerably
from the Pawnees, who seem to think it disgraceful
to seek shelter, save in the most bitter weather
of winter.
Over the framework of poles are buffalo robes, tied
together with sinews until the covering will shed
water and resist wind. Inside, the floor is covered
thickly with skins of many kinds, on which by day
the occupants lounge or cook, play or gamble, as
best suits their fancy, and at night
the same furs serve as a bed for all
the family.
It was at Fort Laramie that I was
met by certain members of the
American Fur Company, who
had in the older days been well
acquainted with my father,
and had seen me more than
once when I was with
him.
They paid their respects
to my mother,
and she and I, in
company with John
Mitchell and Susan,
were invited to dinner with the gentlemen. We had
cold corned beef and biscuit, with plenty of milk to
drink, which fare was to us a luxury.
INDIANS ON THE MARCH
We remained at Fort Laramie one day and had
the good fortune to see the Indians setting out on
the march, the men to go against their enemies, and
the women to return to the villages.
We saw the squaws taking down the lodges and
fastening the poles on either side of the pack animals,
with one end dragging on the ground. Across these
poles, just behind the horse, were lashed short pieces
of wood, forming a framework on which were tied the
food, furs, and household belongings, while in many
cases the children rode on top of
the load during the journey.
Then the babies
were shut up in
small willow cages,
and either fastened
on the backs of the pack horses, or securely tied to
the trailing poles.
The women performed all the work from taking
down the lodges to leading the pack animals. The
men did nothing save sit on their ponies, decked
out in a fanciful array of feathers, with their war
shields and spears from which fluttered gay-colored
bits of cloth, as if their only purpose in life was to
present a warlike appearance.
As I told the girls, those Sioux Indians making
ready for battle were the first real savages we had
met. They would not hesitate to carry away anything
belonging to a white man, if they could get
their hands upon it, but they acted more like men,
than did any we had seen before.
THE FOURTH OF JULY
Within two days after leaving Fort Laramie, we
killed three elks and four deer. It was necessary to
halt another day in order to cure the meat, after
which we pushed on at our best speed until the Fourth
of July, when all the company, John Mitchell's following
as well as that party of emigrants who joined us
at Ash Hollow, remained in camp during a full day to
celebrate properly the winning of our independence.
There was nothing we could do, save follow the
example of the savages, when they want to show
signs of rejoicing, and that was to make a great feast.
I had the good fortune to shoot an elk and an antelope
shortly after daybreak that morning, and much
to my surprise John Mitchell and one of the men
brought in a small bear.
During the feast those men who believed they
excelled in speech making showed their skill at great
length. The chief part of what was said concerned
the Oregon country and the possibility that the Government
at Washington would stretch out its arms
over the land to which we were traveling, showing
the English people that we claimed it as our own,
and intended to hold it against all comers.
This halting for the celebration was of advantage
to the cattle, whose feet were yet sore, for they needed
rest quite as much as did the women of the company.
Then, when we set off once more, it was with greater
cheerfulness and increased hope, for the way could
not have been improved nor made more pleasant.
There was timber in abundance, so we were not put
to it for fuel, and as for game, a good hunter might
go out at almost any hour in the day two or three
miles from our wagon train, and bring back deer,
buffaloes, antelopes, or even bears.
MULTITUDES OF BUFFALOES
Ten days after we celebrated the independence of
this country we encamped near the Narrows, within
sight of the snow-capped Wind River Mountains, and
then it was that our company got some idea of what a
herd of buffaloes looked like.
When we broke camp in the morning it seemed as
if the entire land was covered with the animals. They
were in such throngs that the sound of their hoofs
was like the rumbling of distant thunder, and one
could hear the click, click, clicking of the thousands
upon thousands of horns when they came together in
battle, for the bulls appeared to be fighting incessantly
as they moved here and there.
Some of the brutes were rolling in the dust, turning
from side to side as if in greatest delight, others had
gathered in groups as if watching those who fought.
One could compare the scene to nothing more than
to an ocean of dark water surrounding us on every
side, pitching and tossing as if under the influence
of a strong wind.
It was such a sight as I had seen more than once,
but to my companions it was terrifying at the same
time that it commanded their closest attention.
The big brutes were in such
numbers that they
gave no heed
to us. Had we been needing
meat, hundreds upon hundreds
might have been brought down within
a mile of the encampment. As it was, four of our
men could not resist the temptation to go out and kill
some, although it was wanton butchery, for we had
then so much flesh in camp that more could not be
carried.
I was a little anxious on beginning the day's march,
fearing lest we might find ourselves in the midst of
that herd, for they gave no attention to man even
when our people were shooting.
But it was not for us to halt because of a lot of
stupid buffaloes, and I gave the word to move on,
insisting that all the men, being fully armed, should
guard the cows lest they be stampeded.
For two hours we rode in the very midst of that
countless herd, with the shaggy, heavy brutes pressing
so close to our wagons that some of the men were
forced to go on ahead and drive them away by firing
pistols or using clubs, for one could get near enough
to pommel them as you might pommel a lazy horse.
I did not breathe freely until past noon, and
then we had left behind us that surging sea of
beasts.
But for the fact that the time would come, as I
knew full well, when we should need meat, I would
have said I hoped we should never see another buffalo
that side of the mountains.
WE MEET COLONEL KEARNY AGAIN
On this night, within about a dozen miles of the
Narrows, we came upon Colonel Kearny's soldiers,
returning from their long march, having come through
South Pass. Somewhat of the hardships they had
encountered, and which we must face, could be guessed
at by looking at those seasoned troopers, who appeared
to be completely exhausted by long riding
and scanty rations.
No less than twenty of the men were on the sick
list, and at least a hundred others looked as if they
soon would be.
I believe nothing could have been shown John
Mitchell's company which would have told more
eloquently of the hardships to be encountered when
we came among the foothills.
Then we pushed onward more sturdily, and I could
see that every man in our company was looking forward
into the future, understanding that there must
be no faltering now, else they would fall by the wayside,
as had so many of whom we heard from day to
day.
On the seventeenth day of July we felt the first
frost of the season, when ice formed a quarter of an
inch thick, and this warned our people that there was
no time to be lost, if we would win our way through.
If winter caught us while we were among the mountains,
it would be necessary to make camp until spring,
and who could say whether during those long months
we would be able to get sufficient game to keep us
alive?
ACROSS THE DIVIDE
Two days after we had this first token that winter
was coming, we passed over the
dividing ridge which separates the
waters flowing into the Atlantic
from those which find their way
into the Pacific Ocean, and, bringing the train to a
stop before any of our people realized that we had
arrived at what one might call the parting of the
ways, I called out that three cheers be given for
the Oregon country, at the same time pointing to
the streams which were running westward.
There was great excitement in our company when
it was known that we were really on the Divide, and
regardless of the fact that we should have been pushing
on, all insisted upon halting until late in the afternoon,
in order, as Mary Parker said, that they might
celebrate properly having accomplished thus much of
the journey.
That night the air was filled with frost, and we
who had been sleeping with no blankets over us, were
glad to wrap ourselves in whatsoever we could lay
hands upon, to prevent our blood from being chilled.
When we camped, there was no water to be seen on
either hand, nothing save the sandy bed of the stream,
and I verily believe all our people would have gone
thirsty if I had not insisted that they dig in the sand
a hole from eighteen to twenty inches in depth.
We then watched until enough brackish water had
oozed up to moisten the tongues of our thirsty stock,
after which, by waiting a full hour we got enough
to satisfy us partly.
It was the twenty-fifth day of July when we halted
at Fort Bridger and set up our tents just outside the
adobe walls, for, knowing the place right well, I had
no desire to spend a night inside the inclosure.
FORT BRIDGER
This fort, like many another, is little more than a
trading post, and was built two years before we started
for the Oregon country, by two old trappers who had
turned fur traders. The largest building is made of
adobes and serves as storehouse, while the others
are flimsy shelters built from time to time to serve
the needs of visitors.
I remember having heard in St. Louis why James
Bridger forsook his calling of trapper to engage as
trader, and have even seen the letter he wrote Pierre
Chouteau when he settled in the valley of Black's
Fork of the Green River, asking that goods for trading
with the Indians be sent to him.
In it he wrote: "I have established a small fort
with a blacksmith shop and a supply of iron, on the
road of the emigrants, which promises fairly. People
coming from the East are generally well supplied with
money, but by the time they get here are in want of
all kinds of supplies. Horses, provisions, and smith
work bring ready cash from them, and should I receive
the goods hereby ordered will do a considerable
business with them. The same establishment trades
with the Indians in the neighborhood, who have mostly
a good number of beaver among them."
John Mitchell had a very good idea of how great a
profit the owners of the fort hoped to make, when he
was forced to pay five cents a pound for flour, and three
dollars a pound for
powder, with other
supplies in like
proportion.
James Bridger
was exceedingly
kind to mother and
me when he learned
who we were, for he
had often trapped
in company with
my father, and I
believe he would
have given us outright anything we might have needed
from his stores, had we told him we lacked money with
which to pay for what was wanted; but I would not
have taken a dollar's worth from any man, unless
my mother had been in sore distress.
Susan Mitchell was greatly interested in the trapper
who had turned trader, when she heard from my
mother that James Bridger had been grievously
wounded in a battle with the Blackfeet Indians,
had received two arrows through his back, and yet
after so severe an injury he, with his friend, Bascus,
and two other comrades, held the savages at bay for
two days, until a company of white hunters came to
his relief.
One of the arrows was taken from Bridger's body
during the fight, but the other held firm in the wound,
and Bascus cut off the wooden portion close to the
flesh, letting the iron head remain. This piece of
metal he carried in his body three years, until Dr.
Marcus Whitman, who was on his way to the Oregon
country, cut it out after long and painful work. The
arrowhead was three inches long, and the barbs had
become hooked around one of the man's bones, which
held it until it was cut out by Dr. Whitman.
We were at our nearest point to the Great Salt
Lake, and at this place a trail branched off, leading
to what is known as Ogden's Hole, close by that vast
inland sea. If we had desired to go to the California
country, it would only have been necessary to continue
on around the Wasatch Mountains, and then
strike off again to the westward, unless we were inclined
to climb the hills, going by the way of that salt
lake.
There were twenty-five lodges of Indians near Fort
Bridger, some of the savages having come to trade, and
not a few of them being employed as trappers by the
fur buyers. They were mostly of the Snake tribe
and had with them quite a large herd of cattle.
Already Susan Mitchell and Mary Parker had seen
enough of the Indians to satisfy their curiosity, and
whether they wore moccasins of a little different
pattern from other Indians, or
fashioned their bows and arrows
after another manner, was not
sufficient inducement to persuade
them to encounter such
conditions as were
to be found in the
lodges.
In order to give
our cattle
a rest we
remained
at Fort
Bridger two
days, after which
we went on again with the hope of soon coming upon
the Columbia River.
Our men had been told by the fur buyers that
it was of the greatest importance we push forward
at all speed, lest we be caught among the hills by
the snow, and during the four or five days following
our departure from the post, we traveled more
rapidly than at any other time since leaving Independence.
The month of August had well set in when we came
to Soda Springs, and there it was I had counted upon
surprising Susan Mitchell; nor was I disappointed.
These springs are small hills or mounds standing
at the right of the trail near a grove of cedars and
pines, while the water that has oozed out of them in
the past has formed a solid crust of soda for miles
around, so hard that one may walk upon it.
The liquid soda is warm and sparkling as it comes
to the surface, and when it has been led some distance
away where it may be cooled, is as pleasing a drink
as one can find in any of the shops in the East, for it
is the true soda water as made by God Himself.
TRADING AT FORT HALL
At the end of the first week in August we arrived
early one forenoon, at Fort Hall, which is a trading
post belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company and
having the appearance of a regular fortification, because
of being built chiefly
of adobe brick.
There we were
able to buy flour at two cents a
pound, providing we were willing to pay
for it in cattle at the rate of from five to twelve dollars
per head, and since we had two lame oxen and three
cows that could travel but little farther, we laid in a
supply, being allowed for our five animals thirty-six
dollars in goods.
At this place John Mitchell's people were urged to
abandon the idea of going into the Oregon country
because of the hardships and dangers which must be
encountered, and those trappers who were lounging
about the fort insisted that it would be better that
we went to California, instead of attempting to go
farther on the road we had chosen.
The emigrants who had joined us on the way became
frightened because of the many stories which
were told, and decided to try their fortunes in California
rather than Oregon. Therefore when we pulled
out from Fort Hall, Susan Mitchell was saddened at
parting with Mary Parker, who had been a cheery
comrade for the girl during the time they had traveled
together.
THIEVISH SNAKES
We were now in the country of the Snake Indians,
and while one might believe that the Pawnees are the
most expert thieves in the world, he has simply to
come across the Snake tribe in order to learn what
may be done in the way of robbery.
Two days after we left Fort Hall, when I had warned
John Mitchell that it was necessary to keep a sharp
watch both day and night lest even the clothing be
stolen from our backs, he laughed me to scorn; but
I noticed that he took exceedingly good care of his
saddle horse, not only hobbling the animal, but tying
him to a picket rope which was fastened to his own
wrist.
This he did twice, and yet on the third morning,
despite all such precautions, the horse was gone, the
hobble having been cut and left on the ground, while
the picket rope was severed neatly within a half dozen
inches of his hand.
This theft had been committed while Mr. Mitchell
slept, and he prided himself upon being one who was
easily aroused. After this, and I may as well say
here that John Mitchell never saw his horse again,
there was no reason why I should urge watchfulness
upon any of our people. They voluntarily redoubled
the guards while we were in the Snake country, and
although I am not able to say we got through without
losing anything, nothing of great value was taken
from us, with the exception of the horse.
THE HOT SPRINGS
I had one more marvel on this road to the Oregon
country with which to surprise Susan Mitchell, and
that was the Hot Springs, which were within a mile
of the trail; therefore I led the company directly to
them, there making camp.
There are five or six of these springs, from which
water bubbles up so hot that one may boil meat in
it without need of fire, and when I said as much to
Susan's mother, she was inclined
to think I would
make sport of her;
therefore she
boldly plunged
her hand
in, with the result that
every part of the skin
which came in contact with the water was reddened
to the point of being blistered.
That night we boiled some pemmican
in one of the
springs, and the girls of the party amused themselves
by making up balls of meal dough and lowering them
into the water by strands of plaited grass, cooking
them as dumplings are cooked in a stew of meat.
When we camped at Portneuf Crossing, mother
told us the story of the trapper Portneuf, who was
murdered at this place by the Indians, and spoke in
such a tragic manner that even John Mitchell was
impressed by the brutal details. When I made the
rounds of the camp before going to sleep, I took note
that none of the men were inclined to move around
alone outside the rays of light cast by the camp fires,
and he whose turn it was to stand watch, had with
him a companion, much as though he was afraid
to remain without a comrade near at hand in a place
where such an evil deed had been done.
A prepared meat carried by all travelers over the Oregon trail.
THE FALLS OF THE SNAKE RIVER
Next day, after a march of fourteen miles, we came
to the American Falls of the Snake River, and supper
was long delayed because all the women and girls
were lost in wonder and surprise at the beautiful
scene. I told them that the Snake River flows over
three immense cataracts, the American, the Shoshone,
and Salmon Falls, one quite as awe-inspiring as the
other.
We slept that night with the roaring of the cataract
drowning all other noises, and next morning we were
as wet as if we had been exposed to a smart shower.
The wind had changed about midnight, and the spray
from the falls was blown into the tents as well as
under the wagon covers, until we were so uncomfortable
that sleep left us at an early hour.
Because of thus being awakened before break of
day, we set off on the march sooner than usual, with
the result that before sunset
we had arrived at
Raft River, twenty-six
long miles from
the American falls. The trail was difficult even for
pack horses, and there were many places where it
seemed an absolute impossibility to drag the heavy
wagons with the teams doubled until we had at times
as many as twelve yoke of cattle to one cart.
We were encamped in a valley, the bottom lands
of which were covered with heavy, rich grass that
must have been a real surprise to the animals after
the scanty fare they had had from the time of leaving
Fort Bridger. I believed that we might spend a full
day here, in order to give the animals good rest before
undertaking the mountainous trail, and was on the
point of telling John Mitchell what I had in mind
when Susan called my attention to six or eight wreaths
of smoke coming from as many different points on the
mountains around us.
SIGNS OF THE INDIANS
To the girl it was a cause only for surprise that
smoke should be seen ascending in such a place; but
on the instant I was alarmed, knowing beyond doubt
that signal fires had been kindled by the Indians,
warning others of their tribe that a small company
of white people were where they might be attacked
with small chance of defending themselves.
No one except my mother knew of the anxiety
which filled my heart that night. Knowing that we
were at the mercy of the savages, if they should
fall upon us while we were in the valley and they
on the rising ground around us, I could not sleep,
although needing rest sadly. I spent the time
until sunrise walking from one sentinel to another
in order to make certain each man was keeping sharp
watch.
John Mitchell must have guessed that danger
threatened, for he came out from
beneath the cover of his wagon
shortly after midnight and remained
on the alert
until sunrise.
Then we could
see many columns
of smoke from the
sides of the mountains,
and I knew
we were surrounded
by savages who
would not hesitate
to make an attack
in order to gain
possession of our
goods, if it could be done without
great danger to themselves.
BESET WITH DANGER
I would not listen to John Mitchell when he proposed
that we make a hurried start, for I knew the
Indians were near enough to see clearly what we were
doing, and at the first show of fear on our part the
whole crew would be upon us. However, I insisted
that no member of the company should stray ever
so short a distance from the train, and I took good
care that the cows were herded in close order between
two of the wagons.
Despite all I could say to the contrary, Susan insisted
on accompanying me when I rode to and fro
along the line, keeping sharp watch for a possible
ambush and fearing each instant to hear that savage
yell which would tell that the enemy was upon us.
Yet we passed along the mountain sides and across
narrow valleys in peace until after sixteen miles we
arrived at the banks of Marsh Creek, where I gave
the word that a halt be made, because then we were
where it would be possible to make some show of
defending ourselves in event of an attack, owing to a
small thicket of stunted pines on a slight elevation of
land near the water.
During all the day's journey, I knew the Indians
were hovering close around us, because of the signal
fires that were lighted just in advance of us from
time to time; but we failed to see the enemy except
once, when a half-naked savage showed himself, as if
by accident, as we rounded a bend in the trail.
Other than that one glimpse of a dark form and the
signal fires on every hand, we had no proof that danger
lurked near us. It is likely that the greater number
of our company were ignorant of that which menaced;
but I knew full well that we had been in peril of our
lives from the moment we made camp at Raft River.
Again I passed a sleepless night,
and again John Mitchell joined me as
I went from sentinel
to sentinel, asking
now and then if any
suspicious noise had
been heard, until
another day had
dawned, and then I
failed to see signal
smoke, search the
country with my
eyes though I did. It
was evident the Snakes
believed we would put up
a strong fight if attacked,
and, failing to catch us at a disadvantage, they had
drawn off, most likely hoping to come across some
other company of emigrants who were not so cautious.
HUNGER AND THIRST
From Marsh Creek we journeyed to Goose Creek,
a distance of seventeen miles, earning by most severe
labor every yard of advance and failing to find water
during the entire day. That part of the country
yielded no grass for the animals, and when we made
camp at night we took good care to see that every
beast was hobbled so securely that he could not stray
very far in search of food.
The next day's march ended at Rock Creek, and
although the traveling was quite as hard for beasts
and men, we made twenty-four miles, urged to most
severe exertions because our store of food was being
consumed rapidly. I knew we could not hope to find
game and therefore we must go hungry until arriving
at the trading post on the Snake River known as
Fort Boise, while the animals would have great difficulty
in finding grass. The country was stripped as
bare of green as though a fire had passed over it, and
many were the distressing tales I could have told of
emigrants who had perished miserably by starvation
while trying to make this portion of the long
journey.
We left Rock Creek a full hour before daylight,
urging the famished beasts at their best pace while
we ourselves strove not to think of food lest the hunger
which beset us should become more keen. Not
until forty-two miles had been traversed did I give
the word to encamp, and it was full time, for I
question if we could have held on half an hour
longer.
NEARLY EXHAUSTED
Then we had arrived at Salmon Falls Creek. It
was nearly nine o'clock in the evening when we came
to a halt, and during the last half hour of the march
we had been more nearly asleep than awake. At this
camp we found a scanty crop of grass, but no food
for ourselves, and when, weary to the verge of exhaustion,
we crept under such shelters as had been
put up hurriedly in the darkness, it was with the
knowledge that sleep would come quickly, enabling us to
forget, even for a short time, our great needs.
From this point the next camping place would be
on the bank of the Snake River, at what is known
as the first crossing, twenty-five miles away, and then
we had before us a journey of seventy-three miles to
the Boise River, after which we must march forty-eight
miles farther in order to gain Fort Boise, where
food could be had.
One hundred forty-six miles stretched out ahead of
us before it would be possible to satisfy our hunger,
and this distance could not be covered in less than
three days. Our animals were so nearly worn out
with severe work and lack of food that it did not
seem possible we could advance another ten miles,
and yet all that long distance must be traversed
unless we gave up the struggle, leaving our bones
to bleach on the trail, as many another had done
before us.
Now and again we came upon ghastly evidences of
death, in wrecks of wagons and tokens of human
beings who had perished by starvation. Perhaps it
was well we saw those things, since they forced our
people to struggle all the harder.
We traveled in silence during the three days before
arriving at Fort Boise, eating nothing at noon, and
for breakfast and supper receiving no more than
enough to prove how desperately hungry we were. I
strove to keep my mind fixed upon the danger which
might menace from Indians, in order to be ready to
guard against it; but the others, even including
Susan, rode or walked listlessly, as if already despairing
of ever being able to accomplish the task before
us.
The animals moved feebly; twice an ox fell in the
yoke, refusing to rise again, and we were forced to
leave him behind. The men worked half-heartedly
when it became necessary to double the teams in
order to haul the wagons over the rough road, and
so great became the suffering of all that we moved
onward as if in a dream.
ARRIVAL AT FORT BOISE
I shall not speak of that terrible time, save to
say that the good God permitted us to arrive
finally at Fort Boise at the very moment when I
believed there was no hope of our succeeding. It
was as if we had been dead and come alive again,
when the trappers came out to meet us, and carried
the women and children into the inclosure, for,
having arrived where grass could be found, the
hungry beasts came to a full stop nearly a quarter
mile distant, nor was it possible to force them forward
a single pace farther.
Fort Boise is a Hudson's Bay Company's post,
and if the trappers and traders there had been members
of the American Company they could not have
treated us with greater kindness. Because of our
exhausted condition the men took entire charge of
our cattle, and we were treated almost as children,
being waited upon during the first hours after our
arrival as if we were not capable of caring for ourselves,
which I suppose really was the case, for if we
had been allowed to have all the food we desired
some of the weaker ones might have eaten until they
died.
Two days at this post served to put the members
of the company, as well as the cattle, in fairly good
condition, and the men who had treated us so kindly
urged that we take our departure without further
loss of time lest we be overtaken by snowstorms while
among the Blue Mountains, which range it would be
necessary to cross before we arrived at the Oregon
country.
ON THE TRAIL ONCE MORE
I understood that such advice was good, and when
John Mitchell would have lingered despite the advice
of the trappers, I took it upon myself to insist that
we go forward, picturing to him in the most vivid
colors the result if winter came upon us before we had
scaled the mountain range.
In order that we might not overtax our newly
acquired strength, we brought the first day's march
from Fort Boise to an end at the bank of the Malheur
River, sixteen miles distant. Next day we
traveled thirty-one miles to Burnt River, where we
halted one day to make ready for a sixty-mile journey
to Powder River.
To make any attempt at describing this part of
our journey would be repeating the words I have set
down many times before. The trail was as rough as
can well be imagined, and the labor of getting the
heavy wagons along quite as great as had been found
elsewhere.
Because of the supplies bought at Fort Boise, we
did not suffer greatly from hunger, although we were
allowed only a small portion of food each day; but
the animals were in a half-famished condition all the
while until we had arrived at the Grande Ronde,
which is a beautiful valley among the mountains,
where grass can be found in abundance.
There in that excellent camping place we remained
two days, the cattle meanwhile feeding greedily, as
if realizing that it was necessary they add to their
strength in
order to make the
journey over the mountains,
fifteen miles away.
Refreshed by the long
halt, we began to climb the
Blue Mountains, where the
trail led over such steep
ascents that it became necessary
to yoke all our cattle to one wagon, pull it a mile or
two up what was much like a cliff, and then drive the
oxen back for another load, thus winning our advance
with the greatest difficulty, and after the most severe
labor traveling no more than seven miles in one
day.
CAYUSE INDIANS
It was about the middle of September when we
arrived at the Umatilla River, where is an Indian
village under rule of the chief Five Crows of the
Cayuse tribe, and a
more friendly tribe
I have never seen.
They had not a little land
cultivated,—of course all the
work had been done by the
squaws,—and stood ready to
trade with us for whatever we
had, but were more eager for clothing
than anything else.
On leaving the valley, the trail runs
straight up the bluff, over a high, grassy
plain, affording fairly good footing
for the animals; but when we halted
that night it was necessary to carry
water from the stream no less than a mile
and a half up on the ridge, to our camp.
Two days later we came upon a village of the Walla
Walla Indians, who, instead of begging, offered us
venison and potatoes and seemed to be much pleased
when we accepted their gifts; we lingered with them
a day, for now the time had come when I could no
longer call myself guide.
THE COLUMBIA RIVER
We had come within sight of the Columbia River,
which was not more than four miles away, and farther
than this I had never gone, for my father in his trading
trips had generally halted in the Umatilla
Valley, where he remained until having
gathered a large supply of
furs.
Now that the
river was in full
view, any of the
party might have
led the way, for the
trail was fairly well
defined; but there
were so many chances of wandering
out of the most direct course
that I urged John Mitchell to hire
one of the Walla Walla Indians to
serve us until we arrived at Oregon
City.
To my surprise he refused, but insisted that I finish
the task.
It is true that I could continue as guide while we
had the river near at hand to mark out the general
course, and it pleased me much that he should be
willing to put so much confidence in me, for I understood,
or believed I did, when we left Independence,
that he was more than doubtful whether a lad of my
age could properly do that which might be required.
As I learned from the Indians, we had but one more
difficult passage to make before the journey would
be finished, and although the cattle and the horses
were worn nearly to the verge of uselessness, I believed
that by making slow marches, if the winter did
not come upon us too suddenly, it would be possible
to make our way through.
AN INDIAN FERRY
The way was hard, more difficult, it seemed to me,
than any over which we had passed. But by working
carefully, sparing the cattle as much as we could,
and not forcing them more than an eight- or ten-mile
march, we succeeded in passing over the bluff, until
we came to the Des Chutes River.
At this stream it was necessary to have assistance
from the Indians, because it would be impossible for
so small a party as ours to make the crossing. The
current was so rapid and violent, besides being exceedingly
deep at places, that we could not hope to take
the wagons over except by using canoes as ferryboats.
This last we did, lashing upon five or six of the
largest a platform of poles and split logs, until there
had been formed a bed sufficiently large to give room
for a wagon.
It seemed to me as if John Mitchell would never
make a bargain for this rough ferrying. The Indians
demanded as the price of their labor almost everything
they saw in the wagons, and at least three hours
were spent in haggling, before we were ready to make
the first venture.
Then our picket ropes were doubled and tied together
until we had a length sufficient to stretch across
the stream. One end of this was made fast to the
platform of logs and canoes, and the other carried by
a party of the Indians to the opposite side of the
stream, when all the strength of every man that could
be mustered was required to keep our ferryboat from
striking upon the rocks.
We were two days making this passage, although
the stream at its widest part is not over a hundred
fifty yards, and when, finally, the task had been accomplished
and we started on the last stage of our
journey, it was found that, in addition to what we
had given the Indians, they had succeeded in stealing
a quantity of powder and shot, several shirts, and
two pair of trousers, one pair of which, I grieve to say,
belonged to me and were the best I ever owned.
THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA
I wish I could express the thankfulness and relief
which came upon me on the 29th of September, when
we arrived at the end of our journey, for then we
had come to the Dalles, or the Methodist Missions,
beyond which no wagon had ever passed.
At this place we found several families of would-be
settlers waiting for a passage down the river in one
of the two small boats which ran from Cascade Falls
to Fort Vancouver, from which place they might
continue the journey by water to Oregon City.
Here, at what is known as the Dalles of the Columbia,
where the water rushes through a long, narrow
channel of rock with so swift a current that when
the water is high even boats propelled by steam cannot
stem it, the missionaries sent out by the Methodist
Church have built a few dwellings, a schoolhouse,
and a barn, besides planting
the surrounding land
by aid of the Indians
whom they have converted
from a life
of savagery to the
knowledge of God.
OUR LIVE STOCK
I cannot take to myself very much credit because
of having led John Mitchell's company without serious
mishap, even though I have twice before traversed
the trail from the Missouri River. Yet we had no
trouble which could not be overcome by hard labor,
and every member of the company arrived at the
journey's end in good health, which is more than can
be said of other emigrants.
When we arrived at the Dalles of the Columbia,
we found there emigrants who had lost more than
half of all their live stock during the long journey,
and again my heart was overflowing with thankfulness,
because we had suffered no great loss.
On leaving Independence there were in John Mitchell's
train, as I have already set down, thirty cows,
forty oxen, twenty horses, and ten mules. We arrived
at the Dalles with twenty-one cows, thirty-two oxen,
seventeen horses, and six mules.
MY WORK AS GUIDE ENDED
Here at the Dalles, as I have said, the journey was
nearly ended, and here it is that I, Antoine, who
now three times have crossed from the Missouri to
the Columbia River, have come to an end of my story-telling.
In guiding John Mitchell's company over this long
journey of more than two thousand miles, I did no
more than show them what I knew of woodcraft,
how to kill the buffalo, to stalk the antelope, to creep
up on the elk, and, what in the Indian country is of
the greatest importance, how to form camp so that
they might be in least danger of a surprise.
My mother had come over this long stretch of
country with fewer hardships than any other woman
in the company. She had been, as you might say,
familiar with travel in the wilderness, for twice had
she been out with my father on his trading trips, and
knew how to take advantage of this time of rest, or
of that period of toil.
I BECOME A FARMER
Having left our home in St. Louis, we began to
realize, as the end of the journey drew near, that we
must look upon ourselves now as settlers in the Oregon
country.
Because of not having sufficient money with which
to embark in my father's business, I must content
myself with becoming a farmer, that I might the
better care for my mother. Even though it did not
accord with my wishes to abandon the life of a trapper,
yet that was of no account, so long as I was able to
do my duty by my mother, even as she has done her
duty, and more, by me.
Concerning the journey down the river, when we
traveled comfortably on a boat, there is no reason why
I should set down anything, save that we arrived at
Oregon City on the twenty-second day of October. We
remained at the Mission, with other intending settlers,
a long time waiting for the boats, and when we arrived
the journey which had been begun on the sixth day of
May, if we counted the beginning when we left Independence,
was at an end.
There were many matters regarding this long march
of ours, many small adventures and larger misadventures,
which I would dearly have loved to set down.
It would also have pleased me to tell how it was
that I came to buy land on the Columbia River, with
the money earned as a guide, together with what was
received from the sale of the old home.
All this and more, I would like to set down in detail;
but I have not the time in which to do it, therefore I
will write as the last words, that I, who once claimed
St. Louis as my home, while I labor with my hands in
the fields for my dear mother, have put behind me
the past with its lure of trapping and hunting, and
learned to think of myself only as Antoine of Oregon.
BOOKS CONSULTED IN WRITING
ANTOINE OF OREGON
Ballantyne, R. M.: The Dog Crusoe. Henry T. Coates.
Bryant, Edwin: What I Saw in California. D. Appleton & Co.
Bryce, George: The Remarkable History of the Hudson's Bay
Company. Sampson Low, Marston & Co.
Chittenden, Hiram Martin: The American Fur Trade of the
Far West. Francis P. Harper.
Dellenbaugh, F. S.: Breaking the Wilderness. G. P. Putnam's
Sons.
Drake, Samuel Adams: The Making of the Great West. Charles
Scribner's Sons.
Irving, Washington: The Adventures of Captain Bonneville.
G. P. Putnam's Sons.
Marcy, Randolph B.: The Prairie Traveler. Harper & Brothers.
Parkman, Francis: The Oregon Trail. Little, Brown & Company.
Paxson, Frederick L.: The Last American Frontier. The Macmillan
Company.
Powell, Lyman P.: Historic Towns of Western States. G. P.
Putnam's Sons.
Thornton, J. Quinn: Oregon and California. Harper &
Brothers.
Thwaites, Reuben Gold: Early Western Travels (Palmer).
Arthur H. Clarke Co.
Thwaites, Reuben Gold: Early Western Travels (Buttrick).
Arthur H. Clarke Co.
JAMES OTIS'S
COLONIAL SERIES
Calvert of Maryland
Richard of Jamestown
Mary of Plymouth
Ruth of Boston
Peter of New Amsterdam
Stephen of Philadelphia
Price, each, 35 cents. For grades 3-5
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nor do they show a marked effort in writing down to
the supposed level of young minds. They do not contain
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WEBSTER'S DICTIONARIES
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These Dictionaries are the acknowledged authority
throughout the English speaking world, and constitute
a complete and carefully graded series. The spelling
and punctuation in all leading schoolbooks are based on them.
WEBSTER'S PRIMARY SCHOOL DICTIONARY
$0.48
Containing over 20,000 words and meanings, with over
400 illustrations.
WEBSTER'S COMMON SCHOOL DICTIONARY
$0.72
Containing over 25,000 words and meanings, with over
500 illustrations.
WEBSTER'S HIGH SCHOOL DICTIONARY,
$0.98
Containing about 37,000 words and definitions, and an
appendix giving a pronouncing vocabulary of Biblical,
Classical, Mythological, Historical, and Geographical proper
names, with over 800 illustrations.
WEBSTER'S ACADEMIC DICTIONARY
Cloth, $1.50; Indexed
$1.80
Half Calf, $2.75; Indexed
3.00
Abridged directly from the International Dictionary, and
giving the orthography, pronunciations, definitions, and
synonyms of about 60,000 words in common use, with an
appendix containing various useful tables, with over 800
illustrations.
SPECIAL EDITIONS
Webster's Countinghouse Dictionary. Sheep,
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$2.40
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.15
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.57
The same. Roan, Flexible
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.78
The same. Morocco, Indexed
.90
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DAVISON'S HEALTH SERIES
By ALVIN DAVISON, M.S., A.M., Ph.D., Professor of
Biology in Lafayette College.
Human Body and Health:
Elementary, $0.40
Intermediate, $0.50
Advanced, $0.80
Health Lessons:
Book One, $0.35
Book Two, $0.60
The object of these books is to promote health and prevent
disease; and at the same time to do it in such
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¶ These books make clear:
¶ That the teaching of physiology in our schools can be made
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¶ That anatomy and physiology are of little value to young
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¶ That both personal and public health can be improved by
teaching certain basal truths, thus decreasing the death rate,
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¶ That such instruction should show how these diseases,
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malaria are contracted and how they can be prevented.
¶ That the foundation for much of the illness in later life is
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