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Hi
In this video I'll show you my electric bike assembling.
Present the parts I had to buy to build it.
the tools. The details that you need to be careful with and this will be followed by a demonstration.
My electric bike that I built here has a hand throttle that allows me to move forward without pedalling.
It has a cruising speed of about 40 km/h (25mph)
The autonomy is still undetermined. But considering the first tests, I expect to travel more than 30 km (18 miles) with one charge
You might find in the video details a more accurate autonomy.
Now we can make the presentation of the parts that I bought.
I'll need a bike The wheel is already removed.
I will use tires resistant to punctures.
to avoid having to disassemble the engine too often when punctures.
I bought a wheel that already is radiated with a part of the engine.
The engine, which is still packed.
I'll also need the controller
that will allow to the engine to work, it'll send the impulsions to the motor.
A kit to strengthen the part at the axis of the wheel to avoid that the hub rotates by itself.
It was recommended by the seller
So I asked him to add it to my order.
So I also bought brakes that detect the braking
to allow the engine to recover energy and especially to stop pushing when I brake.
So since I have much better brake here
I'll try to make something just to get the switch that is in the brake.
Then a hand accelerator which will enable me
to control the motor directly from the handle.
Otherwise I would have to pedal.
Of course a small battery and the battery charger.
I also bought replacement gears because apparently the gears are quite fragile.
I also bought a brake disc because Shimano uses proprietary mounting
this one uses the classic mounting although it is a shimano.
But in reality on the original wheel my bike had this disc
which as you can see has a riveted mechanism.
So I can not reuse it with my electric motor
which uses a conventional fastening system.
You will also need, if like me you have an MTB, a carrier to place the battery.
And finally you'll need a "free-wheel".
(I'm not sure of the term in French, maybe "roue libre" but I do not think this is the right term.)
Actually how it looks: This is the rear cassette
but it includes the free-wheel, the free wheel mechanism is directly integrated.
Why you need to buy it?
Because usually in the original wheel they are only cassettes
which are like this.
So they are stacked but they do not have a free-wheel mechanism.
In fact, the free-wheel lies directly in the wheel hubs
and the engine itself does not have this mechanism that's why you have to buy this piece instead.
Then you also need to purchase this item, it is a spacer which allows to increase the length
of the hub or something like that.
Because as it is a 9 speed apparently it is too large without this piece.
I present the unpacked engine.
As you can see there is no free-wheel mechanism
and on this side it is a system for conventional disc
At the tools you'll need a key which fixes the "free wheel".
Here I have one in my tool case but I bought a second
with the engine because apparently the other one might be too small, so we'll see if it's useful.
A chain whip can still be useful if you also want to remove the cassette.
Where (not integrated into) the "free wheel" is not included.
To remove this you do not need a chain whip but to remove the original cassette you do.
As you can see we need this tool
to tighten the cassette since it must be placed so
and you must use a wrench to tighten.
If you already have this kind of tool like me, but for the cassette without the free wheel.
You see that you cannot use it So think about buying this tool.
Here the wheel mounted on the bike.
The cassette there is no real problem.
Here you can see the spacer to keep away
the last part of the cassette.
But at the side of the disk I had to struggle a bit. This was
already one of my fears when I purchased.
As you can see the bracket is very close to the motor.
And I had to install washers actually to away the disc from the motor
so that the caliper can fit.
So it's really very very very narrow as you can see the support here
the caliper is very close to the disc.
So I do not know if it's really usable like that but in any case it works.
I twist the disc a bit because it is very narrow.
Here is the bike in its almost final version.
Here you can see the reinforcement to the axis of the rear wheel.
Well unfortunately I have forgotten you a little I've already packed all cables in "duct tape".
But the connections are relatively simple, most of the time there is only one connector that fits
so that's good. It is easy to connect.
On the handlebar, on the right you have the accelerator,
a switch to limit the speed and the cruise control.
To the left is the start button system.
At first I had not installed it because there is a small lamp on the drawing so I thought it was for the headlights
and therefore the engine didn't work.
And a button to probably make a contact so I'll probably use it for a horn.
Moreover there is a drawing of a horn.
Voila!
Now we'll test it!
[Music]