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Hi everyone it's April with Hair 101
and today we're going to do another chop chop on this beautiful long hair
she's done this a few times she's a little bit nervous but
tomorrow is valentines day so I wrote love on my lips with Violent lips - lip tattoos
that's for you guys because I love you guys alright
for the color we were going to do a Balayage technique and you're wanting some lighter
pieces around our face and then throughout the ends
all the way through the back have a seat
for the color what tone are you hoping to get
for the lighter color I don't think we are going to go all the way blond
and not orange so you are wanting to stay in the cooler tones
we are probably going to do a toner
and her hair will pull orange because when we lighten it that will be the underlying tone
so you have to use either a color that has
a blue in it to take care of that orange
or use a toner after you bleach it out
both of those techniques will work great you just have to pick one and go for it
whatever you have in your closet or
whatever you have used in the past that works really good
i'm thinking since we are doing balayage we are going to be using the Framesi
hair cream lightener let me get that out and show it to you
It's the B decolor cream from Framesi
and the reason why I'm using this is because it is non-swelling
so it is a Lightener it is a cream bleach
it is a good oil lightener so it doesn't do as much damage to the hair
there's no powder in it
and also it doesn't swell so that's really important when you're painting
on to hair because if it starts to swell and leak everywhere else
where you don't want it then you are going to have a big mess when you're done
make sure that you're using a
non-swelling bleach or lightener or color if you're doing a balayage color or technique
so the lightening
let's see so do you want to point out on this swatch chart how light you want the
the highlight to be
I want it to be noticeable but not blonde
so maybe like a 6 yeah because my hair is pretty dark
I would say it's a two so you need to count
so if you have 2 and you want a level 6 how many levels of lift
is that you need to go 2-3-4-5-6 so you need 4 levels of lift
afterwards I'm going to be using the
Redken shades EQ in a 9B
and that's blue and that's going to take care of the orange
to a real pretty
cool tone instead of a warm tone
alright so lets get this cut going
so i'm going to cut her and then
dry her then paint on the color it's a little bit more work but
I think that will be the best way to make sure we get her color right so she wants to
donate this
hair so i'm going to put it in a ponytail and braid it
at least 14 inches here she wants the haircut
not making he do this "I changed my mind" it's too late now sweetheart
i'm just teasing you
I know you are
here we go! lovely
don't cry no crying
all right we're going to do the haircut i'm going to do the entire haircut with
most of it with my razor she has really thick hair
and she wants it to go really short in the back in a dramatic A-line
this is going to be fun
I sectioned the hair off in a T-part
so that's just the four sections right down the middle and then
from the top of the head to the ears and then I'm gonna take
a section in the back
we're going to make this a pretty dramatic line because we're going from really short
too long so here's the line in the back
and so earlier we
chopped off her hair into this lovely Braid so that we could donate to Locks of love
and this is pretty much the haircut we got from its
like in a line and we're going to go really short now
and do some detail into it so the first thing i'm going to do
is take this little section here and i'm going to cut it to where her hair naturally grows
so i'm going to hold my fingers right up to
the hair growth pattern and I'm going to chop off this hair using the razor
leaving a little bit of length on the edges so that we can
graduate down and have that nice shape
now i'm going to go through this section because she has so much hair
and i'll razor out some pieces so we don't have to do it later on
now i'm going to take the next section down
just like an inch above that one and we're gonna have some fun here we're
going to take this middle section
a little bit from both sides and pull it up
and knock it off
like that
and then we are going to take half of the section that we just cut so split it right down
the middle
and we are going to take all of this up
i'm going to take that guide and i'm going to put the razor in
and go from short to long
on the other side too
as soon as the guide falls out
go from short to long
it's leaving you quite a bit of length on these edges and that's what we want
we want some length on the edges
so we can have the a line be really dramatic and go towards her face
if the hair starts to get a little bit dry you can mist it with water
when you are razor cutting it's good to have the hair
wet or damp if it's really dry it will start to hurt so you need to make sure that it's not
drying out while you are working
this is fun just playing with the hair making it really soft
and then we should be getting a lot more length here now
when that guide falls out
go short to long
okay so take down the other two sections on the front
and now we are going to have a little bit more of a disconnect
so that we can get this really dramatic line in here
all right so i'm going to take another section and i'm going to leave out
i'm going to take a little section on the top of both of these
and pull it straight back
on this one i'm not going to be grabbing all the way down by the ears
just this top section
and i'm going to pull it back to where I can see the guide underneath and razor it off
the razor is really fun because it cuts uneven and soft you can shape the hair
whatever you wanna do with it and we are going to pull this down
and cut a little bit off
of the sides
to give it that a line look
so you're cutting that corner off so it's longer look straight now
now we are going to go into these sides
and try to get that fun drastic a line shape
i'm going to take this section
and part it this way so we are going diagonal forward
we are going to go from this short section in the back
and we are going to go to the long section in the front
and shape that in there
and if you see some big chunks that are thick and hanging
you can cut them out with the razor
then pull this all the way back this time
then go from the short section
and take a little bit out of it and go to the long section
we are keeping all that length in the front coming all the way back
you need to knock off that little bit of a tail
that's in the back that reaches back here then leave that length in the front
you can see how this is taking shape now
you have that really dramatic line going forward
so this is the last section on this side we are going to take it back here
there we go
K
same thing on the side so this is a really fun fast haircut
and I love using the razor too because it takes care of a lot of the finishing work too
you've already put so much texture into it
you don't have to do a ton of finishing just a little detail
where it's not looking so right okay let's dry that up and see how it looks
does that feel better? so now i have all this dry
and it is really thick still so i'm going to take my shears and my thinning shears
and maybe even the razor because she likes pain
we are going to start in the back
i'm going to have you look down again
anything that is really long like this
you can go in and point cut out that looks better
I always like to fix the necklines when it's dry and flat ironed just to see what's going on
because the hair changes direction
down here sometimes when it's wet and dry necklines seem to work better when
they are how they wear them okay look straight again
then i'm going to go into the bump part the stack
and try to soften that out with the thinning shears
there isn't really an exact number on
how many times you go through it with the thinning shears I go by look and feel
i'm going to take a section like this
and slice out
some of the pieces to relieve some of that thickness
be careful when you get around the face not to take off all the length
so if you had someone that doesn't have this thick of hair you'd obviously do a lot less
of this
but it just goes off look and feel do it until you think it looks good
you can ask them Do you want a little bit more??
is that good? they can tell you if they want a little bit more
taken out does that feel better?
starting to not be big anymore
okay i'm going to check
use the thinning shears I didn't do that yet on this side
we need to do a little bit more right in here
alright
Do you want to do anything else with the haircut?
it feels good??? do you want to see the back? sure
see the side?
is that what you wanted? yes so we are done with the cut now we are going
to do the color we are going to do a balayage color
Click on Part Two