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>> AH, JAMAICA.
"ONE LOVE."
LUSH ISLAND PARADISE, CHEERFUL
LOCALS CRACKING COCONUTS FOR
TOURISTS ON ALL-INCLUSIVE BEACH
RESORTS TO THE LILTING SOUNDS OF
REGGAE.
OR IS THAT STRUGGLING CARIBBEAN
NATION HOBBLED BY POVERTY,
CORRUPTION, AND VIOLENCE, A PAWN
IN THE GREAT GAME OF ONE-TIME
COLONIAL POWERS?
BOTH?
NEITHER.
ONE THING IS FOR SURE, THOUGH.
TRUST ME TO TRY REAL HARD TO
MAKE THE OTHER JAMAICA SHOW.
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪
I WRITE.
I TRAVEL.
I EAT.
AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH ♪
♪ YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
IT'S CONFUSING ENOUGH THAT OVER
THE PAST FEW DECADES, JAMAICA
HALLS SENT OUT SOME MIXED
MESSAGES.
MORE CONFUSING IS THE FACT THAT
SOME OF THE MOST CONTRADICTORY
OF THOSE MESSAGES CAN BE TRUE.
IT IS A BEAUTIFUL PLACE, EXCEPT
FOR WHEN THEY'RE STRIP-MINING
BAUXITE.
THE PEOPLE ARE, GENERALLY
SPEAKING, GENUINELY FRIENDLY,
PROUD OF THEIR COUNTRY AND THEIR
FOOD.
BUT ON THE OTHER HAND, THEY DO
HAVE ONE OF THE HIGHEST ***
RATES IN THE WORLD.
PRINCIPAL EXPORTS INCLUDE THE
RASTAFARIAN INFLUENCE MUSIC OF
BOB MARLEY, COFFEE, BAUXITE,
MARIJUANA, AS WELL AS SOME OF
THE MOST VIOLENT STREET POSSES
BRITISH AND AMERICAN LAW
ENFORCEMENT HAVE EVER SEEN.
I'M COME HERE TO NEITHER PRAISE
JAMAICA NOR HURT IT, BUT TO GET
A MORE REALISTIC VIEW OF THE
PLACE.
TELL ME, WHERE'S THE JAMAICA
FROM THE TRAVEL BROCHURES AND
THOSE COMMERCIALS WITH
"ONE LOVE" PLAYING IN THE
BACKGROUND?
WHERE'S THE BIG FLOATING BANANA
AND THE JET SKIS AND THE TENNIS
COURTS?
YEAH, WHERE ARE THEY ANYWAY?
OH, HERE WE GO.
OH, THAT'S SERIOUS.
I TRIED TO FIND VOICES LESS
FREQUENTLY HEARD.
>> RASTAFARI IS A RELIGIOUS
MOVEMENT, RELIGION AGAINST
OPPRESSION AND COLONIALISM AND
IMPERIALISM AND ALL THE THINGS,
THEN, THAT GO WITH IT.
>> AND I DID FIND ONE ACTIVITY
WHICH THE SENSIBLE AMONG YOU
WILL AVOID AT ALL COSTS.
THERE'S A TIKI BAR JUST A FEW
YARDS DOWN, RIGHT?
IT SEEMS THAT ALL ROADS IN
JAMAICA LEAD BACK NOT JUST TO
KINGSTON BUT TO IT'S CENTRAL,
ALMOST SPIRITUAL CROSSROADS,
CORONATION MARKETS.
WHEN VISITING A PLACE FOR THE
FIRST TIME, IT ALWAYS MAKES
SENSE TO START WITH THE MARKET.
ONE GETS A SENSE OF THE WHO,
WHAT, AND WHY THERE, CONCEPTS
ALL TOO FAMILIAR TO STAFF
REPORTER FOR THE
JAMAICA GLEANER, ROBERT LALA.
>> $50 BLOUSE.
$50.
>> HE BRINGS A MORE OBJECTIVE
VIEW TO MOST JAMAICAN ISSUES.
BUT THIS PLACE IS AN EXCEPTION.
>> $10.
>> SO MUCH SHARED HISTORY, MOST
GOOD AND DEEPLY PERSONAL.
THIS PLACE HAS A SENTIMENTAL
HOLD ON A LOT OF JAMAICANS.
>> IT'S A PERSONAL HISTORY.
A LOT OF US HAVE FAMILY MEMBERS
WHO WOULD HAVE SOLD IN THE
MARKET AT ONE POINT OR ANOTHER.
I REMEMBER MY FATHER TAKING ME
HERE FOR THE FIRST TIME WHEN I
WAS ABOUT 4 YEARS OLD.
I WENT BACK TO SCHOOL, AND I
TOLD ALL MY FRIENDS.
IT WAS VERY EXCITING FOR ME BACK
THEN.
>> THE MARKET ITSELF IS A SERIES
OF CONTRADICTIONS.
THE PRODUCE IS AS FRESH AS THE
GARBAGE IS OLD.
LIKE MARKETS EVERYWHERE, VENDORS
CAN GO FROM NICE TO BALL-BUSTING
IN THE SAME SENTENCE.
ONE GETS A REPRESENTATIVE
CROSS-SECTION OF WHAT'S GROWING
IN JAMAICA AND WHAT'S GOOD NOW.
LIKE CHICKEN-FOOT SOUP.
THAT'S ALWAYS GOOD HERE.
>> IT'S A VERY POPULAR ITEM.
THEY PUT IN THAT FOAM.
IT HAS GUMBO PEAS AND CHICKEN
FOOT.
>> IT'S VERY GOOD.
>> OH, THAT'S GOOD.
MARKETS EVERYWHERE HAVE ALWAYS
BEEN EASY TARGETS FOR GANG
ACTIVITIES, BUT CORONATION IS
EXCEPTIONAL.
IN THE 1980s, THE MARKET MARKED
THE DIVIDING LINE BETWEEN TWO
RIVAL POLITICAL TERRITORIES IN
KINGSTON.
DURING THAT TIME, EVERY ELECTION
BROUGHT A NEW WAVE OF TURMOIL
AND VIOLENCE.
THINGS HAVE CALMED DOWN SINCE
PITCHED BATTLES OF THE BAD OLD
DAYS, BUT EVEN TODAY YOU STILL
SEE BARRIERS AND BLOCKADES,
STATEMENTS OF POLITICAL
AFFILIATION AS IF IN WARNING.
THIS IS AN AREA IN CONTENTION.
I MEAN, WHO RUNS THE MARKET?
>> THAT'S A TOUCHY QUESTION.
I MEAN, AROUND HERE, YOU HAVE
DISPUTE IN TERRITORY ALL THE
TIME.
>> SO, I MEAN, OFFICIALLY, WHO
RUNS THE MARKET?
>> OFFICIALLY, THE GOVERNMENT
RUNS THE MARKET.
>> BUT AS WITH MARKETS IN
NEW YORK, IN FACT, UNTIL
RECENTLY, UNOFFICIALLY, YOU FALL
INTO ONE SPHERE OF INFLUENCE
OR THE OTHER.
WHO ACTUALLY SELLS PRODUCE HERE?
>> THE COMMON PRACTICE IS THAT
A LOT OF THE PEOPLE THAT'S HERE,
THEY LIVE IN RURAL AREAS LIKE
ST. ELIZABETH, MANCHESTER, THAT
KIND OF THING.
THEY COME IN AT THE BEGINNING OF
THE WEEK, AND THEY STAY HERE AND
SLEEP HERE, RIGHT ON THE STALLS
THAT THEY SELL FROM.
AND THEY STAY HERE FOR THE WEEK
AND TRY AND SELL WHAT THEY CAN.
AND THEN WHEN THE PRODUCE IS
GONE, THEN THEY GO BACK HOME.
>> BUT MY AREA OF IMMEDIATE
INTEREST, MY ALLEGIANCE, HAS
ALWAYS BEEN TO THE JAMAICAN BEEF
PATTY.
OH, YEAH. TWO.
I'VE HAD A NUMBER OF SPICY MEAT
TURNOVERS CALLED JAMAICAN BEEF
PATTIES BEFORE, BUT THE REAL
THING PUTS THEM ALL TO SHAME.
JAMAICAN BEEF PATTIES -- THAT'S
ONE OF THOSE THINGS YOU'VE JUST
GOT TO HAVE, YEAH?
>> THAT'S DEFINITELY RIGHT.
YOU CAN'T COME TO JAMAICA AND
NOT HAVE A BEEF PATTY.
>> OH, YEAH.
>> IT'S PROBABLY OUR MOST
POPULAR SNACK RIGHT HERE.
>> MUCH BETTER THAN WHAT WE GET
IN NEW YORK.
>> THIS IS AN AUTHENTIC ONE.
>> YEAH.
TO PARAPHRASE A LOCAL
EXPRESSION, IF YOU CAN'T FIND IT
IN CORONATION MARKET, YOU CAN
STOP LOOKING.
RED HILLS ROAD IS A BUSY ARTERY
AT ANY TIME OF DAY, LINKING
DOWNTOWN KINGSTON TO THE
RELATIVELY PROSPEROUS RED HILLS
COMMUNITY.
BUT TONIGHT BRINGS OUT A
PARTICULAR KIND OF ENTREPRENEUR.
AN ARTIST AND ARTISAN, REALLY,
WHOSE PRODUCTS HAVE AN APPEAL
THAT TRANSCENDS ALL DIVISIONS IN
JAMAICAN SOCIETY.
IT'S CALLED DRUM PAN CHICKEN
FOR THE GRILLS MADE FROM
55-GALLON OIL DRUMS, AND THE
STUFF ITSELF IS THAT JAMAICAN
CLASSIC, JERK CHICKEN.
BASICALLY, YOU SEE SOMETHING
LIKE THIS ALL OVER THE
CARIBBEAN IN ONE EXTENT OR
ANOTHER.
WHAT'S SPECIAL ABOUT JAMAICAN
STYLE?
>> WELL, WE'RE KNOWN FOR OUR
SPICES.
THE WHOLE SPICE OF THE CHICKEN
GETS -- IT'S VERY WELL SEASONED,
AND WE'RE KNOWN FOR THAT.
>> A WONDERFULLY MUTATED
DESCENDANT OF THE SEASONINGS
ONCE USED FOR DRIED JERKY, THE
"JERK" IN JERK CHICKEN REFERS TO
THE BLEND OF SPICES, USUALLY
INCLUDING CINNAMON, CLOVES,
SCALLION, NUTMEG, THYME, AND
GARLIC, BUT ALWAYS SCOTCH-BONNET
PEPPERS AND THE NEARLY
OMNIPRESENT ALLSPICE, A
PEPPERCORN-TYPE SPICE KNOWN
LOCALLY AS PIMENTO.
WELL, OKAY, I'M DEFINITELY GONNA
NEED SOME OF THIS.
LET'S SEE.
>> I'VE GOT CHICKEN READY.
>> OH, BEAUTIFUL.
GOOD, GOOD, GOOD. ALL RIGHT.
THIS IS ONE OF ROBERT'S FAVORITE
DRUM-PAN-CHICKEN STANDS.
BUT WITH DOZENS OF SIMILAR
OPERATIONS OUT ON A GOOD NIGHT,
COMPETITION IS TOUGH.
THAT LOOKS AWFUL JUICY.
>> SO, YOU THINK YOUR CHICKEN IS
BETTER THAN ANYBODY ELSE?
>> I KNOW THAT WE HAVE
NUMBER-ONE TASTE.
>> YEAH?
>> YEAH.
>> WHAT MAKES IT NUMBER ONE?
WHAT'S SPECIAL ABOUT YOURS?
>> MORE POTENT.
>> FRESH HERBS.
>> RIGHT.
>> I'M TELLING YOU, YOU'RE
COOKING THAT CHICKEN JUST RIGHT,
TOO, MAN.
IT'S NICE.
[ HORNS HONKING ]
AS ELSEWHERE IN THE CARIBBEAN,
YOU PULL RIGHT UP IN YOUR CAR
AND ORDER UP.
THE GUYS BEHIND YOU -- LET THEM
WAIT.
SO EVERYBODY EATS HERE, RICH OR
POOR?
>> EVERYBODY COMES HERE.
IT'S VERY POPULAR ON A FRIDAY
NIGHT AND ON A SATURDAY NIGHT.
PEOPLE ACTUALLY LEAVE THEIR
HOMES AND DRESS UP AND COME
OUT HERE, PARK THEIR CARS ON THE
SIDE OF THE ROAD TO COME HERE
AND GET THE CHICKEN.
>> YOU EAT IT IN THE STREET, OR
YOU TAKE IT HOME WITH YOU?
>> IT DEPENDS.
IF THERE'S NO RAIN, STAND RIGHT
HERE AND EAT IT HOT.
THAT'S THE THING.
THEY LIKE TO GET IT VERY HOT AND
FRESH.
THEY EAT IT ON THE SPOT.
>> I'VE HAD A DECENT AMOUNT OF
GRILLED CHICKEN AROUND THE
CARIBBEAN OVER THE YEARS, BUT
TASTING THIS, I GET WHAT ALL THE
TALK IS ABOUT.
FRESH HERB, OVER DRY -- NICE,
MOIST, PROPERLY AND FRESHLY
COOKED CHICKEN MAKES ALL THE
DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD.
IT'S INCREDIBLE CHICKEN.
I'LL TELL YOU, IT'S COOKED
REALLY, REALLY NICELY.
THAT WAS REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
THE CHEF JUST TOLD ME EVERYTHING
THAT HE PUTS IN IT AND HOW HE
MAKES IT.
BUT I'M TELLING YOU, I COULD
PROMISE YOU THAT IF I WERE TO
TRY TO DO EXACTLY THE SAME
THING, THE SAME WAY, IT'S NOT
GOING TO TASTE THAT GOOD.
>> AAH!
>> YOU CAN'T GO TO JAMAICA AND
AVOID THE BEACH ALTOGETHER.
I'M LIKING THIS HOT SAUCE.
>> YOU HAVE TO, LIKE, DOUSE IT.
>> BUT THIS AIN'T EXACTLY
CLUB MED.
>> YOU CAN EAT THAT BY YOURSELF?
>> WELL, WHAT I CAN'T, I'LL FEED
TO MY CAMERA PEOPLE.
THEY LOVE LEFTOVERS.
>> OKAY. POP QUIZ.
BIGGEST MONEY-MAKING FINANCIAL
SECTORS IN JAMAICA ARE...
AND...
BINGO.
BUT FUNNY THING ABOUT THOSE
NETWORK LAWYERS.
REALLY, ONE OF THE WONDERS OF
TELEVISION IS THAT YOU REALLY
CAN'T MENTION THE ELEPHANT IN
THE ROOM...
NOT DIRECTLY.
LIKE NETWORK POLICY WOULD
PROHIBIT ME FROM DISCUSSING OR
DOING ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR
ACTIVITIES ON THIS ISLAND.
AND, OF COURSE, I ALWAYS ABIDE
BY NETWORK POLICY.
SO THAT [COUGHS] LEAVES US WITH,
LIKE [COUGHS] THE BEACHES, MAN.
JUST BECAUSE I'M, LIKE, NOT
*** IMMACULATE DOESN'T MEAN I
CAN'T GO TO THE BEACH.
THIS IS YOUR BRAIN.
THIS IS YOUR BRAIN ON THE BEACH.
HELLSHIRE BEACH, THE CITY BEACH,
WHERE KINGSTON KICKS BACK ON
SUNDAYS.
IN MY EXPERIENCE, EVERY ISLAND
IN THE CARIBBEAN HAS A CITY
BEACH.
I GUESS THIS IS THE KINGSTON
VERSION OF CONEY ISLAND.
LOCALS GO ON THE WEEKEND, BRING
THE KIDS.
I'M NOT RIDING THE PONY, BY THE
WAY.
NO PONY RIDE THIS WEEK, MY
FRIENDS.
YEAH, NO PONIES.
THIS WILL BE ONE EPISODE WHERE
TONY DOES NOT GET ON THE PONY.
IT'S A LOCAL THING, HELLSHIRE,
LINED WITH FISH SHACKS LIKE
AUNTIE MERL'S HERE, SERVING UP
GRILLED FISH AND COLD BEER.
LOCAL FILM PRODUCER SARAH MANLEY
HAS BEEN COMING HERE HER WHOLE
LIFE.
AND AS IS TRADITION HERE, OUR
MEAL STARTS BY DECIDING WHAT TO
EAT.
WHAT DO WE HAVE HERE, SNAPPER?
>> AND PARROT.
>> I'M A BIG SNAPPER FAN.
AS FRESHNESS IS CLEARLY NOT AN
ISSUE, IT'S REALLY ONLY ABOUT
PORTION CONTROL.
>> THAT'S PRETTY BIG.
YOU CAN EAT THAT BY YOURSELF?
>> WELL, WHAT I CAN'T, I'LL FEED
TO MY CAMERA PEOPLE.
THEY LOVE LEFTOVERS.
LET'S GET SOME GRILLED LOBSTER,
ALSO, WHILE WE'RE AT IT.
SO, HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN
COMING TO THIS BEACH?
>> MY WHOLE LIFE.
I DON'T REMEMBER THE FIRST TIME.
I WAS A CHILD.
>> NOW, ONE OF THE THINGS I'VE
NOTICED IN MY TIME IN THE
CARIBBEAN, LOCALS GENERALLY
DON'T GO TO THE BEACH -- EVEN
WHO LIVE NEAR THE BEACH THEIR
WHOLE LIVES, DON'T GO TO THE
BEACH, EXCEPT ON SUNDAY.
>> YEAH.
SUNDAY'S A BEACH DAY.
BUT WHEN YOU LIVE NEAR THE
BEACH, IT ALSO MEANS YOU WORK
NEAR THE BEACH.
>> YEAH.
THE CREW AT AUNTIE MERL'S IS
CERTAINLY WORKING HARD.
THE GEAR IS BASIC, BUT THE
FISH -- FIRST RATE.
YOU GET YOUR FISH HERE ONE OF
FOUR WAYS.
YOU GOT YOUR FRIED -- VERY
POPULAR AT HELLSHIRE BEACH.
YOU CAN HAVE IT STEAMED...
BROWNED IN STEW...
OR FESTIVAL STYLE.
WHAT'S BROWN STEW?
>> IT'S VERY POPULAR.
IT'S LIKE STEWED FISH.
YOU KNOW, BUT IT'S THE WHOLE
FISH SIMMERED IN SAUCES, SO IT
HAS LIKE A GRAVY.
>> I SEE YOU'VE GOT A LOT OF
LITTLE SUB-ENTREPRENEURS, AS
WELL.
COLD BEVERAGES.
>> MM-HMM.
THERE USED TO BE A PERSON THAT
WANDERED AROUND SELLING OYSTERS.
>> HE'S STILL HERE.
WHAT EVERY GOOD BEACH NEEDS --
AN OYSTER GUY WITH HIS TUB OF
HOME-BREWED HOT SAUCE.
>> MMM. YUMMERS.
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
>> OH, IT'S GOOD.
THEY'RE TINY, SWEET.
APPETIZERS FINISHED, IT'S TIME
FOR THE ENTREES.
>> AH, ME.
>> FRESH FISH EATEN ON THE
BEACH -- ALWAYS A GOOD THING.
OH, THAT'S SERIOUS.
>> YES.
USE A SPOON AND, LIKE, SCOOP IT
ALL UP AND POUR IT ALL OVER THE
FISH, YOU KNOW?
THOSE ARE REALLY HOT.
THOSE ARE THE PEPPERS.
AND THE SEEDS ARE LIKE --
>> NUCLEAR?
>> YEAH.
>> MMM.
>> YEAH. THAT'S GOOD.
I'M LIKING THIS HOT SAUCE.
>> IT'S GOOD, YES?
YOU HAVE TO, LIKE, DOUSE IT.
>> YEAH.
LET'S TRY SOME LOBSTER THERE.
>> MMM. NICE.
>> I FORGET HOW DIFFERENT AND
HOW GOOD THESE LOBSTERS ARE.
>> DIFFERENT FROM WHAT LOBSTER?
>> THE MAINE LOBSTER, THE CLAWED
LOBSTERS THAT WE HAVE.
THE LAST BIT OF BUSINESS IS
ABOUT THE BAMMY, A VERY
CARIBBEAN CAKE OF CASSAVA ROOT.
AND ANOTHER JAMAICAN
SPECIALTY -- THIS ONE I'D NEVER
HEARD OF -- CALLED FESTIVAL.
SO, FESTIVAL IS LIKE A FRITTER
OR A BEIGNET.
>> YEAH, I KNOW.
IT'S DEEP FRIED.
IT'S LIKE A FLOUR DOUGH DEEP
FRIED.
>> A SWEET JOHNNY CAKE.
>> A SWEET JOHNNY CAKE.
>> YEAH, THEY'RE REALLY LIGHT.
WE HAVE A REGULAR THEORY ON THIS
SHOW THAT FOOD TASTES BETTER
WHEN YOU'RE NOT WEARING SHOES.
IT ALWAYS TASTES BETTER ON THE
BEACH.
YOU GOT YOUR FEET IN THE SAND.
STUFF THAT WOULD TASTE JUST OKAY
BACK IN THE CITY -- REALLY,
REALLY GOOD.
EVERY GREAT COOKING CULTURE IN
THE WORLD ACTUALLY DEEP FRIES A
FISH, THROWS HOT SAUCE ON IT.
IT'S A CONSTANT.
>> THE WAY TO EAT THIS FOOD
HERE, REALLY, IS YOU COME AND
YOU ORDER, THEN YOU SWIM.
'CAUSE YOU EAT IT WITH YOUR
HANDS.
THERE'S SALT ALL OVER YOU, YOU
KNOW?
AND YOU'RE HUNGRY.
YOU'RE REALLY HUNGRY.
>> GOOD STUFF.
BUT A LOT.
>> A LOT.
>> AS SOON AS THE CAMERAS ARE
OFF, I'M GOING TO JUMP IN THE
WATER.
>> THAT IS A GREAT IDEA.
>> DOWN, DOWN, DOWN, INTO A
CRAP-SLICK CHUTE INTO HELL.
>> IT'S LIKE SHOOTING IN THE
SHOWER.
>> WHY, HOW, AND WHY NEVER
AGAIN.
>> I KNEW THERE WAS MORE TO
JAMAICA THAN JUST GOOD FOOD,
GOOD MUSIC, AND BEAUTIFUL
BEACHES.
IN MY ZEAL TO GO BEYOND THAT, I
URGED MY PRODUCERS TO LOOK DEEP
INTO THE COUNTRY, CULTURE, AND
TRADITIONS IN SEARCH OF
SOMETHING OFF THE BEATEN PATH.
PERHAPS THEY TOOK "BEAT" AND
"OFF THE PATH" TOO LITERALLY.
I CERTAINLY ERRED BY NOT PAYING
CLOSE ATTENTION TO WHAT THEY'D
COME UP WITH...
>> WHERE ARE WE GOING, TONY?
>> HELL IF I KNOW.
SOMETHING ABOUT A CAVE.
>> NICE, COOL MORNING, GOOD
CAVING WEATHER.
>> ...WHICH IS HOW I FOUND
MYSELF IN THE WORST, HARDEST,
MOST DANGEROUS, MISERY-INDUCING,
PHYSICALLY DEMANDING, AND,
FRANKLY, STUPID ESCAPADE OF MY
TELEVISION CAREER.
BEATEN PATH?
HOW ABOUT HEATSTROKE-INDUCING
HUMP UP AND DOWN MUDDY JUNGLE
HILLS?
I YEARNED FOR A BEATEN PATH, ANY
FREAKIN' PATH.
MY LEGS ARE KILLING ME, AND MY
HEART IS POUNDING OUT OF MY
CHEST.
I IMAGINED OUR GUIDES JAN AND
STEFAN FROM THE JAMAICAN CAVES
ORGANIZATION TO BE MORE OF THE
BRAWNY, HEAVY ON THE SAFETY
EQUIPMENT ADVENTURE TOURISM
TYPE.
>> SO, TONY, HOW YOU FEEL ABOUT
GOING INTO THIS CAVE, A LITTLE
TREPIDATION?
>> I THINK I'M OKAY WITH IT.
>> IT'S AN EXTREMELY WILD AND
NATURAL CAVE.
>> OH EXCELLENT.
I'M NOT TOO CONCERNED.
OH, GOOD.
LOOKING BACK, THIS IS LIKE THAT
MOMENT IN THE HORROR MOVIE WHERE
THE CHARACTER GOES, "WHAT COULD
POSSIBLY GO WRONG?"
>> OUR TRAIL GETS SLIPPERY HERE
AGAIN, GUYS.
>> HANG ON TO TREES WHENEVER
POSSIBLE, BUT WATCH FOR THE ONES
WITH SPIKES COMING OUT.
>> THE FOOTING IS UNBELIEVABLE.
WE'RE NOWHERE NEAR THE CAVE, AND
WE'RE ALREADY SWIMMING IN MUD
AND SWEAT.
>> OH! OH!
>> YOU OKAY?
>> YEAH, MAN, I'M COOL.
>> THE TERRAIN JUST GETS MORE
AND MORE HAIRY.
>> YEAH.
>> CAREFUL, TONY.
IT'S REALLY SLIPPERY.
>> I SHOULD TELL YOU, BY THE
WAY, I'M STILL, AT THIS POINT,
EXPECTING A CAVE WITH GUARDRAILS
AND MAYBE A GIFT SHOP.
BUT, NO, I'M READY TO STROKE
OUT.
THE EFFORT OF THE HIKE, THE
HEAT AND HUMIDITY -- IT'S HARD
ON ME.
I'M FREAKIN' MIDDLE-AGED, FOR
GOD'S SAKE.
>> HEAD'S UP WHEN YOU COME
THROUGH BAMBOO.
IT HAS A TENDENCY TO POKE YOU
IN THE EYE, AND IT'S VERY
PAINFUL.
>> JUNGLE AND MOUNTAINS NOT
ENOUGH?
HOW ABOUT THE CROSS-THE-RIVER
PART?
THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO CROSS THE
RIVER ON A LOG.
THERE'S A SAFE WAY, STRADDLING
THE LOG AND SLOWLY MAKING YOUR
WAY OVER.
AND THEN THE NOT SO SAFE WAY.
HAVE I MENTIONED, BY THE WAY,
I'M NOT LYING THAT OUR GUIDES
ADVISED AGAINST EVEN DIPPING A
HAND IN THIS WATER, AS IT'S THE
TOXIC RUNOFF OF A NEARBY RUM
FACTORY?
THE LAST HILL WAS, OF COURSE,
THE STEEPEST.
AND ARRIVING AT OUR DESTINATION
BROUGHT NO RELIEF.
>> NOBODY'S SITTING ON THE DIRT.
YOU SIT ON A DRY ROCK OR SIT ON
A LOG.
>> THERE ARE SOME DOMESTIC CATS
THAT HAVE ADAPTED OUT HERE
BECAUSE THEY HAVE A FOOD SOURCE
HERE.
>> THERE'S A PARASITE IN THE
FECES.
>> YOU'RE FINE AS LONG AS YOU
DON'T SIT ON THE GROUND.
>> ***-SEEKING PARASITES,
SURE, WHY NOT?
AND YOU WANT ME TO GO WHERE?
>> WE ARE AT THE ENTRANCE PIT TO
ONE OF THE MOST MAGNIFICENT AND
WILDEST CAVES IN JAMAICA.
HUNDREDS AND HUNDREDS OF
THOUSANDS OF BATS DOWN THERE.
AS EVERY STEP PROGRESSES, YOU
WILL FEEL INCREASING HEAT,
HUMIDITY, AND IT SMELLS LIKE A
BARN DOWN THERE.
TREMENDOUS LIFE EXPERIENCE.
>> BAT FECES, EH?
I THINK THIS RANKS WITH THE ATV
AND THE SICILIAN CLIFF JUMP.
AMONG THE ALL-TIME GOOD IDEAS.
THE TRUTH IS, NOTHING IN MY PAST
EXPERIENCE HAS EVEN REMOTELY
PREPARED ME FOR WHAT WAS AHEAD.
I MADE A POINT OF BEING AMONG
THE FIRST ONES DOWN, JUST SO I
COULD GET THIS BIRD'S-EYE VIEW
OF DIANE WHO GOT ME INTO THIS
NEST HUNG UP LIKE A FROG IN
BIOLOGY CLASS.
STUCK IN THE ROOTS.
OOH, LOOK AT HER STRUGGLE.
>> SAWED OFF AT THE ANKLE.
>> COULD LEAVE HER A FLARE, A
PISTOL, TWO ROUNDS.
>> [ EXHALES SHARPLY ]
>> I'M ACTUALLY ENJOYING THIS
PART.
>> [ SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY ]
THERE'S A TIKI BAR JUST A FEW
YARDS DOWN, RIGHT?
RIGHT?
>> I'M NOT SURE IF IT'S OPEN ON
TUESDAY.
>> I EXPECT AN UMBRELLA IN MY
DRINK.
WE FINALLY BEGIN OUR DESCENT
IN WHAT ONE MIGHT CALL A FECAL
WONDERLAND, BUT WHICH ME AND MY
CREW ARE QUICKLY FINDING TO BE
HELL.
WHAT LOOKS LIKE MUD IS ACTUALLY
A SOUP OF BAT AND ROACH FECES.
EVERY STEP IS TREACHEROUS, AND A
FALL COULD EASILY DROP YOU TWO
STORIES OR MORE.
AND JAN CHEERFULLY SUPPLIES A
STEADY STREAM OF ENCOURAGING
ANECDOTES.
>> YOU'LL SEE MORE ROACHES IN
HERE THAN YOU HAVE EVER SEEN IN
YOUR LIFE.
>> OH, YEAH?
I'M FROM NEW YORK CITY.
>> MILLIONS OF ROACHES IN HERE.
>> REALLY?
I LOOK FORWARD TO THAT.
AS PROMISED, THE ROACHES WERE
PLENTIFUL.
THEY WERE ALSO GIGANTIC.
THEY CRUNCHED UNDER HANDS AND
FEET AS WE WENT DEEPER AND
DEEPER, THE TEMPERATURE GETTING
HIGHER AND HIGHER AS WE GOT
CLOSER TO THE BATS.
>> WHOA! GOT YOU, GOT YOU.
>> THANKS.
OUR WHOLE PURPOSE IN COMING IS
FALLING APART AS THE EQUIPMENT
IS FAILING.
>> HOLD ON.
I'M TOTALLY FOGGED UP.
>> YEAH, I KNOW.
IT'S JUST LIKE SHOOTING IN A
SHOWER.
>> AND THE SIMPLE ACT OF TRYING
TO FRAME A SHOT MEANS LEAVING
YOURSELF PERILOUSLY OFF-BALANCE
AND IN DANGER OF TOPPLING OFF A
CLIFF OR INTO A SOUP OF BAT AND
ROACH FECES.
WATCH OUT HERE.
WATCH OUT A LOT.
EVERY STEP IS TREACHEROUS WITH
OCCASIONALLY UNPREDICTABLE
DROP-OFFS.
LOSE YOUR LIGHT FOR A SECOND,
AND IT'S TIME FOR A PANIC
ATTACK.
THERE'S ALWAYS THE AWFUL
KNOWLEDGE OF HOW MUCH ROCK AND
EARTH HANGS OVER US.
AND NOTHING CAN GIVE YOU A SENSE
OF THE STENCH AND OPPRESSIVE
HEAT.
I'M NOT SURE WHY I KEPT GOING.
I SUPPOSE 'CAUSE I DIDN'T WANT
TO LOOK LIKE A [BLEEP] ON TV.
BUT I WASN'T UP TO IT.
I KNOW THAT NOW.
>> LET'S GO.
>> LIKE THE BOXER ONCE SAID, "I
SHOULD HAVE STOOD IN BED."
OH [BLEEP]
>> THAT DIDN'T SOUND GOOD.
>> AND YET BAT BOY AND HIS
FRIENDS LOVED THIS.
THIS IS JUST ANOTHER DAY AT THE
OFFICE FOR JAN AND STEFAN.
>> WHY DOES THIS PLACE MATTER?
>> CAVES ARE ESSENTIALLY
BIOLOGICAL ISLANDS, THE SAME WAY
THAT THE GALAPAGOS WOULD BE
BECAUSE THE INVERTEBRATES THAT
LIVE IN THE CAVES CANNOT TRAVEL
OVER LAND FROM ONE CAVE TO
ANOTHER.
>> SO, YOU BASICALLY HAVE NOT
UNIQUE SPECIES BUT UNIQUE...
>> BUT THERE IS THAT POTENTIAL.
AND PROBABLY THAT IS THE CASE,
THAT SOME OF THE CAVES HAVE
SPECIES WHICH HAVE EVOLVED FROM
EARLIER SPECIES THAT HAD GOTTEN
IN THERE, WHICH ARE NOW ONLY
FOUND IN THAT CAVE.
>> MY TOUR HERE IS OVER.
IT'S BACK TO THE LIGHT FOR ME.
BUT THERE WAS ONE FINAL
CHARACTER IN THIS EPISODE.
HEY, HEY, YOU HEAR THAT?
[ SHRIEKING ]
THERE HE WAS -- ALL BLACK, A
DESCENDENT OF A PAMPERED HOUSE
CAT, NO DOUBT, NOW SURVIVING
HAPPILY ON A DIET OF ROACHES
AND BATS AND HIMSELF A HOST FOR
VIRULENT, BUTT-SEEKING
PARASITES.
HERE, KITTY, KITTY.
GO SEE DIANE.
THAT'S RIGHT. DIANE.
I'M TOLD THAT THIS CAVE WAS, IN
FACT, THE SAFEST OF THE 27 MAJOR
CAVES SYSTEMS IN JAMAICA.
AND I GUESS I SHOULD HAVE KNOWN
THAT THERE ARE NO TOURIST CAVES
HERE.
BUT AS I STAGGERED BACK THROUGH
THE HEAT IN A COLD SWEAT, BARELY
AVOIDING HEATSTROKE, TO BURN
EVERY SCRAP OF CRAP-ENCRUSTED
CLOTHING ON MY BODY, I TRUST
I'VE SHOWN ANYONE LOOKING FOR A
CHEAP CAVE THRILL WHILE ON
JAMAICAN VACATION THAT YOU
SHOULD PROBABLY STICK WITH A
CHAISE LOUNGE AND A SPLIFF.
COMING UP NEXT...
>> SO THIS IS WHAT WE EAT EVERY
DAY.
IF ANTHONY DON'T LIKE IT, TOUGH
[BLEEP] ANTHONY.
>> IT'S POSSIBLE THAT THIS
SECTION OF KINGSTON KNOWN AS
RAE TOWN HAS SEEN BETTER TIMES.
BUT NO ONE LIVING HERE CAN
REMEMBER THEM.
MORE THAN AN IRONY OF FATE THAT
THE BOUNDARIES OF RAE TOWN ARE
DEFINED BY A CEMETERY, A MENTAL
HOSPITAL, AND JAMAICA'S LARGEST
PRISON.
WHEN ALLAN HOPE WAS BORN HERE IN
1952, IT WAS A PLACE OF POVERTY
AND DESPAIR, MUCH LIKE THE
TRENCHTOWN WHERE BOB MARLEY GREW
UP.
BUT THE MAN I'M MEETING TODAY IS
NOW KNOWN AS MUTABARUKA,
RASTAFARIAN ICON AND JAMAICA'S
ORIGINAL DUBBED POET.
>> GOOD TO MEET YOU.
>> YEAH, MAN.
GOOD TIME. GOOD TIME.
>> IS THIS THE OLD NEIGHBORHOOD?
>> YES. YES.
>> AFTER FINDING HIS PATH AS A
RASTAFARIAN IN THE EARLY '70s,
MUTABARUKA BEGAN COMBINING THE
POWER OF WORDS WITH HIS LOVE OF
JAMAICA'S MUSIC.
HIS WRITINGS, PERFORMANCES, AND
RADIO SHOWS ARE DEDICATED TO
STANDING UP FOR OPPRESSED
PEOPLES EVERYWHERE AND FOR THE
JAMAICAN POOR IN PARTICULAR.
LIKE VIRTUALLY EVERYONE I SPOKE
TO IN JAMAICA, MUTABARUKA'S
PERSONAL ROOTS RUN RIGHT THROUGH
CORONATION MARKET.
EVERYBODY I'VE SPOKEN TO IN
JAMAICA HAS SOME PERSONAL MEMORY
IN CORONATION MARKET.
>> CORONATION MARKET IS THE
MARKET.
MY GRANDMOTHER USED TO SELL
IN HERE.
WE'RE WALKING TOWARDS THE
PRISON.
THIS IS THE MEN'S PRISON.
AH, BLESSED MAN.
>> IN THE FACE OF SUCH HARDSHIP,
I'M CURIOUS ABOUT THE CREATIVE
PATH THAT HE PURSUED.
WHERE DO YOU THINK YOU STARTED
TO FALL IN LOVE WITH LANGUAGE
AND WORDS AND POETRY?
>> KINGSTON TECHNICAL, IN HIGH
SCHOOL.
>> WAS IT ONE TEACHER?
>> WELL, ONE TEACHER THAT TURNED
ME ON TO POETRY.
AND I WROTE A POEM, AND SHE
LIKED THE POEM.
AND SHE TAKE IT, AND SHE GIVE ME
A BIG MARK.
IT WAS A NATURE POEM.
BIRDS I LOVE THE THING TO SEE,
JUST TO SEE THEM FLYING FREE.
BIRDS WITH MANY COLORS, IT'S
WONDERFUL TO SEE THEM FLY.
AND THEY'D RATHER TEACH
MARCUS GARVEY.
DID YOU EVER HEAR ABOUT
MARCUS GARVEY?
>> OF COURSE.
>> MARCUS GARVEY'S SON USED TO
TEACH AT THE SCHOOL.
AND IN THE YEARS THEN, MALCOLM X
BOOK USED TO BAN.
>> IT WAS BANNED?
>> EVERY BOOK THAT SAID "BLACK
MAN," IT WAS BANNED IN JAMAICA.
THE MARVELOUS FEELING THAT IF
YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT BLACK
CONSCIOUSNESS, YOU'RE GOING TO
ANTI-WHITE.
BUT WHAT WE USED TO DO, WE TAKE
THE COVER OFF OF THE BOOK AND
PUT MAYBE AN AGATHA CHRISTIE
COVER ON IT.
AT SCHOOL, I'LL READ IT, BUT
IT'S THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF
MALCOLM X.
>> THE WORLD'S PERCEPTION OF
JAMAICA CERTAINLY CHANGED IN
MUTABARUKA'S LIFETIME.
I KNOW YOU'VE TRAVELED ALL OVER
THE WORLD.
AND I'M SURE YOU'VE SEEN THIS,
THAT EVERYWHERE YOU TRAVEL IN
THIS WORLD WHERE PEOPLE ARE NOT
HAPPY WITH THE WAY THINGS ARE,
YOU SEE TWO T-SHIRTS THAT
EVERYONE'S GOT -- CHE GUEVARA
AND BOB MARLEY.
ARE YOU COMFORTABLE WITH THAT?
THAT, FOR THEM, IT'S REALLY
BOB MARLEY AND BOB MARLEY'S
MUSIC.
>> WHAT WE SAY -- IF THERE WAS
NO RASTAFARI, THERE WOULDN'T BE
ANY BOB MARLEY, YOU SEE?
SO IT IS THE RASTAFARI MOVEMENT
THAT IS PUSHING THE PHILOSOPHY
AND OPINIONS OF BOB MARLEY.
>> ASIDE FROM THE POLITICAL AND
SPIRITUAL ASPIRATIONS WHICH
RASTAFARIANISM EXPRESS, RASTAS
ARE SOME OF THE ORIGINAL
PROPONENTS OF THE SMALL, SLOW,
LOCAL, AND ORGANIC-FOOD
MOVEMENTS WE'VE COME TO TAKE FOR
GRANTED IN THE PRIVILEGED WORLD.
MIND YOU, THEIR ALMOST
EXCLUSIVELY VEGAN DIET ISN'T MY
USUAL FARE.
BUT I ENJOYED MY FIRST EXPOSURES
TO THE RASTAFARIAN PRODUCT LINE,
SO I'LL KEEP AN OPEN MIND HERE.
RASTAS REFER TO THEIR FOOD AS
BEING "ITAL," WHICH MEANS, I
GATHER, VITAL OR SOMETHING.
I DON'T KNOW.
FIRST OF ALL, WHAT DOES ITAL
MEAN?
>> WELL, ITAL IS REALLY ON THE
NEXT LEVEL TO NATURAL.
ITAL IS RASTA.
WE HAVE TO STAY NATURAL.
BUT IT'S LIKE FOOD UNPROCESSED,
YOU KNOW, WITH NO CHEMICALS.
YEAH, I JUST MADE A DRINK AWHILE
AGO.
IT'S FOR EVERYBODY HERE.
WHET YOUR APPETITE.
THIS IS SOMETHING WE HAVE TO DO
EVERY MORNING.
IT'S LIKE OUR FOOD PORRIDGE.
THIS IS PUMPKIN SEED, SESAME,
COCONUT WATER, RIPE BANANA,
PAPAYA, AND MANGO.
>> SOUNDS LIKE IT'S GOOD FOR
YOU.
>> WELL, IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE.
[ LAUGHS ]
IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE.
BUT APART FROM GOOD FOR YOU,
IT'S NICE.
I THINK IT'S NICE, REALLY.
>> IT IS GOOD.
>> IT IS GOOD.
>> NICE.
>> NOT FOR THE CAMERAS HERE, BUT
IT IS GOOD?
>> NO, NO, THAT IS GOOD.
>> RIGHT.
>> ON THE PLUS SIDE, THE
RASTAFARIAN DIET IS RICH IN
FRESH GREENS, WHOLE GRAINS,
LOCAL FRUIT, WHICH, AS MOM
ALWAYS SAID, ARE GOOD FOR YOU.
THE DOWN SIDE FROM MY
PERSPECTIVE WOULD BE...
>> SO, THIS IS WHAT WE EAT EVERY
DAY.
AS I SAY, IF ANTHONY DON'T LIKE
IT, TOUGH [BLEEP] ANTHONY.
[ LAUGHS ]
>> I HATE TO SAY IT -- THIS IS
NOT BAD.
>> NOT FOR THE CAMERA?
>> WHAT'S NOT TO LIKE?
FRESH GREEN STUFF, A LOT OF
GARLIC.
YOU HAVE THAT SWEET COMPONENT.
>> YES.
>> I UNDERSTAND THE CHEMISTRY
AND THE PHILOSOPHY BEHIND IT IS
TO KEEP ALL THE NUTRIENTS AND
THE VITAMINS IN IT.
AND, OF COURSE, IT'S THE LATEST
TREND IN FOOD, IS RAW VEGETARIAN
FOOD.
GENERALLY, I DON'T CARE IF IT
KILLS ME SLOWLY AS LONG AS IT
TASTES REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
SO, NOW THE HARD QUESTIONS.
EVERYBODY IN THE WORLD WHO SEES
THIS HEARS THE WORD RASTA,
RASTAFARA, RASTAFARIANISM.
IF YOU'D ASK, WHAT DOES THAT
MEAN TO YOU?
A GUY WITH DREADLOCKS WHO'S
PROBABLY SELLING ***.
>> A GUY WITH DREADLOCKS,
SMOKING ***.
ONE, IT'S NOT EVERYBODY WHO IS
RASTA, AND, TWO, NOT EVERY RASTA
SMOKES ***.
I'M A LIVING TESTAMENT OF NOT
SMOKING.
RASTAFARA IS REALLY A
BLACK-POWER MOVEMENT WITH A
SPIRITUAL MOVEMENTS.
IT IS FOUNDED OUT OF THE
OPPRESSION THAT WAS METED ON THE
BLACK PEOPLE WHO CAME HERE AS
AFRICANS AND THEN WAS TURNED
INTO SLAVES, YOU KNOW.
SO THE IDEA IS FORMED AND
FASHIONED AROUND LIBERATION
LIBERATION FOR BLACK PEOPLE.
BUT THE SPIRITUALITY OF
RASTAFARI IS NOT UNIQUE TO
RASTAFARI.
SO, THAT IS WHY A LOT OF PEOPLE
ALL OVER THE WORLD CAN CONNECT
TO IT.
>> BEFORE WE'RE DONE, I'VE GOT
ONE BURNING QUESTION I'VE BEEN
DYING TO ASK A REAL RASTA FOR
YEARS.
>> WHITE KID ON A SKATEBOARD,
BLONDE HAIR, DREADS DOWN TO
HERE -- YOU'VE SEEN THEM.
YOU'VE SEEN THEM ON TV, A BUNCH
OF IDIOTS SKATING AROUND IN
CALIFORNIA.
MOMMY AND DADDY ARE RICH, NEVER
BEEN TO AFRICA.
THEY'RE NOT GOING TO AFRICA.
>> DEFINITELY NOT.
>> CAN THEY GET IN?
>> GET IN WHERE?
GET IN WHERE?
GET IN WHERE?
>> WHAT DO YOU DO WITH THAT?
>> BLACK PEOPLE RUNNING UP ON
THE PLACE.
WHAT DO WE DO WITH THAT?
IT'S A CRAZY MIXED UP [BLEEP]
WORLD HERE, MAN.
YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN?
>> [ SINGING REGGAE ]
>> JAMAICANS MAY BE LAID BACK,
BUT THE JAMAICAN MUSIC SCENE IS
ANYTHING BUT.
>> IT'S EXTREMELY COMPETITIVE.
RIGHT NOW IN JAMAICA, WE
PROBABLY HAVE MORE ARTISTS THAN
THE CONSUMER.
THAT'S WHY, AS A YOUNG ARTIST,
IT'S ALSO HARD TO STAND OUT.
>> [ SINGING REGGAE ]
>> SEE SANJAY.
>> [ SINGING REGGAE ]
>> SEE SANJAY WORK.
>> [ SINGING REGGAE ]
>> SANJAY IS LAYING DOWN TRACKS
FOR HIS NEXT SINGLE.
THE LONG-RANGE MARKETING PLAN
FOR THIS RELEASE IS PRETTY
TYPICAL FOR THE JAMAICAN SCENE.
>> [ SINGING REGGAE ]
>> WITHIN THE NEXT 48 HOURS,
HE'LL MIX TWO SONGS, PRESS A FEW
HUNDRED RECORDS AND GET THEM TO
EVERY DANCE-HALL DEEJAY HE
KNOWS.
IF HE'S LUCKY, THEY'LL PLAY HIS
MUSIC FOR THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE AT
ONE OF JAMAICA'S NIGHTLY
DANCE-HALL EVENTS.
I DO NOT UNDERSTATE.
EVERY NIGHT UNTIL NEARLY DAWN, I
FELL ASLEEP TO THUMP, THUMP,
THUMP.
PROFESSIONALLY, HE GOES BY JUST
SANJAY.
HOW DID YOU GET STARTED?
>> I WAS WATCHING TV ONE DAY,
WATCHING SOME VIDEOS ON TV, AND
I REMEMBER JUST WATCHING IT AND
THINKING, I COULD DO BETTER THAN
HIM.
AND THEN I JUST WENT, AND I
WROTE LIKE THREE SONGS THAT DAY.
AND THEN IT JUST STUCK WITH ME
EVER SINCE.
>> ♪ IN MY LIFE I'VE HAD A FEW
FRIENDS ♪
♪ EVEN SOME TRUE FRIENDS ♪
♪ THAT I CAN CALL IN TIMES OF
NEED ♪
>> THE PAIRING OF A POP SOUND
WITH A MUCH MORE AGGRESSIVE
TRACK ON THE SAME RELEASE TELLS
ME THERE'S A LOT I DON'T KNOW
ABOUT THE LOCAL MUSIC SCENE.
[ UPBEAT REGGAE MUSIC PLAYS ]
THE KEY TO THE PHENOMENON IS
DANCE HALL.
LIKE THE TERM "HIP-HOP," IT'S
COME TO REFER TO BOTH MUSIC AND
LIFESTYLE.
WHAT IS DANCE HALL?
>> DANCE HALL IS THE YOUTHFUL
EXPRESSION OF OUR CULTURE.
>> DANCE HALL WOULD BE THE
YOUNGER BROTHER TO REGGAE MUSIC
FROM THE SOUND SYSTEM TOASTING
CULTURE.
>> BUT, OKAY, WHAT'S "TOASTING"?
>> TOASTING IS WHEN YOU SPEAK
OVER INSTRUMENTALS.
>> SIMILAR TO HOW RAP STARTED,
THE DEEJAY SHOUTING OUT TO THE
CROWD?
MORE THAN THAT, DANCE HALL IS
NOW AN ECONOMIC WEB OF
PROMOTERS, RECORD LABELS, AND
SOUND-SYSTEM OPERATORS WHO
DEFINE AND CONTROL THE JAMAICAN
MUSIC SCENE.
>> HOW DANCE HALL CAME ABOUT WAS
THIS -- THE GUYS WHO OWN
STUDIOS -- BECAUSE JAMAICAN
RADIO DIDN'T PLAY A LOT OF THE
MUSIC AT THE TIME.
THEY HAD A SOUND SYSTEM
ATTRIBUTED WITH THE STUDIO.
THAT WAS THE OUTLET FOR THE
MUSIC.
>> RADIOS AT THAT TIME ONLY
PLAYED AMERICAN MUSIC.
SO THE SOUND SYSTEM ALSO SERVED
AS A COMMUNAL RADIO.
AT THE TIMES, RADIOS WEREN'T
AVAILABLE TO EVERYBODY,
OBVIOUSLY, IN THE GHETTO AREA.
THEY WERE EXPENSIVE.
>> LIKE A BLOCK PARTY.
>> YEAH.
MOST OF THESE DANCES, THE
PREMIER DANCES IN KINGSTON, ARE
ACTUALLY STREET DANCES, LIKE
THE PASSA PASSAS AND THE NAUGHTY
FRIDAYS.
>> IF YOU'RE THROWING A STREET
PARTY, HOW DO YOU MAKE MONEY OFF
OF THIS?
WHO'S MAKING MONEY, AND HOW
WOULD YOU MAKE MONEY?
>> THE BAR.
>> WHY DID I HAVE TO ASK?
IT'S ALL ABOUT THE BAR.
SO, YOU GET A CUT OF THE BAR?
>> ME AS AN ARTIST?
>> YEAH.
>> NO, DEFINITELY NOT.
>> WHAT ARE YOU GETTING OUT OF
THIS?
>> PROMOTION.
>> YOU GET PROMOTION?
SO, YOU'RE HOPING THEY'RE GOING
TO EITHER HIRE YOU OR BUY YOUR
RECORDS?
>> IT GIVES YOU A LEVEL OF
EXPOSURE.
>> THE NEXT STEP IN THE PROCESS
BRINGS US OVER TO SONIC SOUNDS
AND BACK TO A FORM OF
DISTRIBUTION ALL BUT DEAD IN THE
UNITED STATES.
45 REMAINS KING IN JAMAICA.
IT'S FAST, CHEAP, DEEJAYS HERE
STILL ACTUALLY USE TURNTABLES,
AND, UNLIKE CDs, VINYL IS
REUSABLE.
SO, WHO'S BUYING THESE RECORDS?
>> FOR THE MOST PART, THE
EUROPEAN MARKETS LIKE GERMANY
AND CERTAIN OTHER PLACES.
AND JAPAN.
>> THIS IS A VERY UNSENTIMENTAL
PROCESS.
HERE'S HOW IT WORKS.
WE MAKE YOUR RECORD.
IF IT SELLS, THAT'S NICE.
IF IT DOESN'T SELL...
WE DO THIS WITH IT.
THEN WE MAKE SOMEONE ELSE'S
RECORD.
SO, THAT'S YOUR MUSIC RIGHT
THERE.
HOT VINYL.
WHEN YOU SAID THAT THIS IS A
DEMO MARKET --
>> YEAH, IN JAMAICA, WE'RE NOT
CONSUMERS OF MUSIC.
WE DON'T PURCHASE OUR OWN MUSIC.
>> YOU HEAR IT AT PARTIES.
>> EXACTLY.
WE'RE LIKE A PROMOTION CULTURE.
PEOPLE LOOK TO SEE WHAT'S HOT IN
JAMAICA, WHICH IS WHY IT'S SO
IMPORTANT TO STAY RELEVANT AT
THE STREET DANCES AND ON 45s.
>> THE DANCE-HALL SCENE IS,
WELL, WHAT YOU DO AT NIGHT HERE.
THERE'S NO WOOTSY, LAID-BACK
RASTA VIBE.
THIS AIN'T ABOUT STANDING UP FOR
YOUR RIGHTS OR PRAISING JAH OR
ANYTHING LIKE THAT.
LIKE REGGAETON, ITS MUTANT
COUSIN, DANCE HALL IS THE
HARD-CORE BEAT BEHIND LYRICS
CONCERNING, FOR THE MOST PART,
ABOUT ACQUIRING POSSESSIONS,
GETTING RESPECT ON THE STREETS,
BEATING DOWN PERCEIVED ENEMIES,
AND ENJOYING THE PHYSICAL CHARMS
OF VARIED, IF NOT MULTITUDINOUS
[BLEEP]
>> THERE'S A WHOLE CULTURE TO
THESE STREET DANCES.
THE ONLY DIRECT ECONOMIC BENEFIT
IS FROM THE BAR.
YOU HAVE DANCERS THAT MAKE A
CAREER OUT OF IT.
THEY GO TO THESE STREET DANCES
NIGHT AFTER NIGHT, AND THEY
DANCE.
THEY MAKE THE DVDs, 'CAUSE
THERE'S A DVD BEING MADE AT
ALL THESE DANCES, AND THOSE DVDs
GET SHIPPED ALL OVER THE WORLD.
>> SANJAY IS HERE TO SEE AND BE
SEEN.
BUT THIS CREW DOESN'T KNOW HIM,
SO HIS MUSIC HAS NO CHANCE OF
BEING PLAYED TONIGHT.
NO SURPRISE.
>> IT'S EXTREMELY COMPETITIVE.
RIGHT NOW IN JAMAICA, WE
PROBABLY HAVE MORE ARTISTS THAN
CONSUMER.
THAT'S WHY, AS A YOUNG ARTIST,
IT'S ALSO HARD TO STAND OUT ON A
CERTAIN LEVEL BECAUSE IT'S SO
CROWDED.
YOU REALLY HAVE TO MAKE
THAT EXTRA EFFORT TO STAND OUT
FROM THE REST OF THE CROWD AND
THE REST OF THE PACK.
>> THIS IS A VERY COMPETITIVE
SCENE.
FILLED WITH PERFORMERS AND
SONGWRITERS HOPING TO LIVE OUT
THEIR DREAM.
FEW -- VERY FEW MAKE IT.
WHEN JAMAICANS PICTURE HEAVEN, I
IMAGINE IT LOOKS SOMETHING LIKE
THE BLUE MOUNTAINS -- COOL,
GREEN, AND SURPRISINGLY
PROFITABLE.
>> WE BOAST A VERY HIGH-QUALITY
COFFEE, AND IT'S ALSO
HIGH-PRICED COFFEE.
[ WHISTLES ]
>> LOWLAND JAMAICA IS CROWDED
AND PRETTY HOT MUCH OF THE YEAR
'ROUND.
HIDDEN IN PLAIN SIGHT, THOUGH,
IS A WORLD OF COOL BREEZES AND
THICK, MORNING FOG.
>> COMPARING TO KINGSTON, HERE
IT'S A TOTALLY DIFFERENT WORLD.
IT'S USUALLY 5 TO 6 DEGREES
COOLER AT ANY GIVEN TIME.
>> THE BLUE MOUNTAINS HAVE
ALWAYS OFFERED ESCAPE TO
JAMAICANS.
RUNAWAY SLAVES CALLED MAROONS
LIVED IN THEM FOR CENTURIES.
WHITE PLANTERS BUILT SUMMER
HOMES THERE TO BEAT THE HEAT.
AND IN THE LATE 20th CENTURY,
THE LONG-STANDING CASH CROP ROSE
TO BECOME A STANDARD OF
EXCELLENCE AND A RELIABLE SOURCE
OF HARD CURRENCY THAT INVOLVED
NEITHER STRIP-MINING NOR MAKING
COLORFUL DRINKS FOR TOURISTS.
AND I AIN'T TALKIN' ABOUT WEED.
>> THE BLUE MOUNTAINS COULD
EASILY BE CONSIDERED AS A
MICROCLIMATE OF JAMAICA WITH ITS
OWN WEATHER PATTERN.
>> THE MOUNTAINS' PARTICULAR
MICROCLIMATE TURNS OUT TO BE ONE
OF THE HAPPIEST PLACES ON EARTH
FOR THE PATHOLOGICALLY FUSSY
ARABICA COFFEE BEAN.
>> YOU OUGHT TO KNOW THAT IF YOU
SHOULD TAKE THIS PLANT, FOR
EXAMPLE -- A BLUE MOUNTAIN
COFFEE PLANT -- AND TAKE IT TO
BRAZIL, COLOMBIA, WHEREVER IN
THE WORLD, IT WILL PRODUCE
COFFEE, BUT IT JUST WILL NOT
PRODUCE THE SAME QUALITY COFFEE
AS IT WILL HERE IN THE BLUE
MOUNTAINS.
ROLL IT OUT!
ROLL IT OUT!
>> JUNIOR'S FAMILY'S BEEN
WORKING ON THE CRAIGHTON ESTATE
FOR A LONG TIME NOW.
HE JOINED ME FOR SOME
CONVERSATION OVER A CUP OF THE
LOCAL BREW -- $17 EACH IN JAPAN,
BY THE WAY.
COFFEE'S BEEN PRODUCED ON THIS
PROPERTY FOR HOW LONG?
>> NEARLY TWO CENTURIES.
>> THIS PROPERTY IN PARTICULAR?
>> YES.
WE'RE BASICALLY PREDOMINANTLY
MOUNTAIN COFFEE.
>> ONE GOT AN EARLY LOCK ON THE
MARKET FOR JAMAICAN COFFEE.
YOU WERE INTO JAPAN EARLY.
>> 1950s.
>> I THINK THEY'RE THE
NUMBER-ONE CONSUMER OF JAMAICAN
COFFEE?
>> 85% OF JAMAICA'S COFFEE IS,
IN FACT, EXPORTED DIRECTLY TO
JAPAN.
>> WHAT PERCENTAGE TO THE
STATES?
>> ROUGHLY AROUND 7%.
AND 8% TO THE REST OF THE WORLD.
>> IS THERE ENOUGH COFFEE FOR
THE DEMAND?
>> NO, THERE ISN'T.
>> SO, BASICALLY, MORE PEOPLE
WANT JAMAICAN BLUE MOUNTAIN
COFFEE THAN YOU HAVE THE ABILITY
TO SUPPLY.
THAT'S NOT A BAD POSITION TO BE
IN.
>> IT REALLY ISN'T.
WE BOAST A VERY HIGH-QUALITY
COFFEE, AND IT'S ALSO A
HIGH-PRICED COFFEE.
IT'S NOT A BAD POSITION TO BE
IN.
>> IF YOU'RE A COFFEE-PRODUCING
CULTURE, ARE YOU A
COFFEE-DRINKING CULTURE?
>> NO.
>> I NEVER SEE ANYONE DRINKING
COFFEE.
>> NO, WE'RE NOT.
WE'RE NOT A COFFEE-DRINKING
CULTURE, BUT WE'RE ACTUALLY HIGH
PRODUCERS.
>> THIS WEATHER IS PROBABLY A
LOT MORE FAMILIAR TO JAMAICANS
THAN IT IS TO PEOPLE WHO SEE THE
TRAVEL VIDEOS.
IT'S BEEN RAINING FOR HOW LONG
NOW?
>> ROUGHLY AROUND SIX WEEKS
CONTINUOUSLY ON AND OFF.
>> IT WAS A SPECIAL TREAT THAT
JUNIOR'S FAMILY COOKED ME UP THE
CLASSIC JAMAICAN SUNDAY DINNER
RIGHT THERE ON THE ESTATE -- A
FAMILY INSTITUTION THROUGHOUT
THE COUNTRY.
ALL THE BASIC, BELOVED ELEMENTS
WERE REPRESENTED -- RICE AND
PIGEON PEAS, COUNTRY-STYLE
CHICKEN, AKEE AND SALT FISH,
FRIED PLANTAINS, AND BREAD.
THIS IS THE REAL THING.
SUNDAY DINNER IS STILL A BIG
DEAL IN JAMAICA.
>> HERE IN JAMAICA, IF YOU MISS
EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK, YOU DON'T
MISS SUNDAY.
YOU HAVE TO COOK ON A SUNDAY.
>> THIS, THE AKEE, I LOVE.
>> YOU NEVER HAD IT BEFORE?
>> I'VE NEVER HAD AKEE BEFORE.
WHAT IS AKEE?
>> IT'S JUST A FRUIT.
WHEN IT GROWS, IT HAS THIS
YELLOW OUTSIDE.
BUT THEN ONCE IT STARTS TO RIPE,
THE ORANGE PART OPENS.
THEN YOU HAVE TO SEE THE YELLOW
PART WITH THE BLACK SEEDS IN
THERE.
SO WHEN YOU'RE PREPARING THEM,
YOU CUT OFF THE BLACK SEEDS.
YOU JUST COOK THEM.
YOU ADD SALT FISH AND WHATEVER.
>> IT'S OUR NATIONAL DISH.
>> WHO DO WE HAVE TO THANK FOR
THIS?
WHO PREPARED THIS MEAN, BY THE
WAY, OR IS THIS A GROUP EFFORT?
>> IT'S A GROUP EFFORT LED BY
AUNTIE.
SHE IS THE CHEF EXTRAORDINAIRE.
>> I THINK HE SEEMS TO BE
COMFORTABLE WITH OUR JAMAICAN
FOOD.
I WAS A LITTLE BIT, YOU KNOW,
HESITANT ABOUT IT, IF YOU'D
ENJOY THE FOOD.
>> OH, NO, THIS IS REALLY,
REALLY GOOD.
THIS IS RIGHT IN MY COMFORT
ZONE.
>> OKAY.
>> SO GOOD.
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
BEAUTIFUL, BEAUTIFUL, BEAUTIFUL
FOOD.
VERY HAPPY.
>> I'M HAPPY THAT YOU'RE
ENJOYING IT.
[ LAUGHTER ]
>> THE SAD FACT ABOUT THE
CARIBBEAN IS THAT, IN MOST
COUNTRIES, ALL THE TRADITIONAL
INDUSTRIES HAVE DISAPPEARED.
THE POPULATION SERVE A SINGLE
GOD, TOURISM, NEGLECTING THE
LESS PROFITABLE MEANS OF MAKING
A LIVING, LIKE FISHING, FARMING,
MANUFACTURING.
JAMAICA IS A RARE EXCEPTION AND
NOT ONLY STILL FARMS AND FISHES
FOR ITS OWN FOOD AND EXPORTS
PRODUCTS FOR HARD CURRENCY, BUT
HAS INFLUENCED THE WHOLE WORLD.
BUT PERHAPS ITS MOST POWERFUL
EXPORT -- A MUSICAL CULTURE AND
LIBERATION THEOLOGY WHICH PEOPLE
RESPOND TO EVERYWHERE.
A LONG HISTORY OF COLONIALISM,
OPPRESSION, CORRUPTION,
POLITICAL INFIGHTING,
BLACK-ON-BLACK RACISM HAVE
RESULTED IN A KIND OF OPTIMISTIC
FATALISM, BENEATH WHICH LIES A
DETERMINATION TO BOW TO NO ONE.
THE FOOD, THE FUN, THE BEACHES
ARE, OF COURSE, AS ADVERTISED.
AND IF THE SERVICE AND
ACCOMMODATIONS OF THE OLD
BRITISH EMPIRE ARE WHAT YOU'RE
LOOKING FOR, THAT'S HERE, TOO.
THERE'S PLENTY OF BAD STUFF
LAYING BENEATH THE SURFACE OF
THOSE COMMERCIALS BUT EVEN MORE
GOOD.
A LITTLE RESPECT PAYS REAL
DIVIDENDS HERE.
JUST KEEP YOUR *** ABOVE THE
GROUND.