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Please find this product at http://absupply.net/ This video is to bring you a closer look at
the Trimco 1069L in a 619 finish. That's what you see of the door in elevation, open the
door up all the way and slid it into the pocket that is what you would see. The backside view
which you would never see once installed. So the Trimco 1069L is to date the only ADA
compliant sliding or pocket door privacy latch. It is very perfectly suited for applications
where you have assisted living situations where you will have facilities where handicapped
people reside and the operation of its privacy allows and ADA compliant sort of operation
where you aren't twisting anything and you can just push that handle up or down to latch
or unlatch it. We will go over that in a moment. The 1069 first is available in; the 1069 is
available as a passage set. When you add the "L" it means privacy or just says that it
means latching or locking. There are no keys involved but it does give privacy in the sense
that you can't walk up to the door and pull it open because it is latched. Available in
several different architectural finishes, this is the 619 which is satin nickel, which
is a relatively uncommon finish for this item but none the less is something that is certainly
manufactured and available. Very nice attractive finish from Trimco. You see a little bit of
grease on the backside, and that is normal because this mechanism tips in and out and
we will go over that in a moment. So for pocket doors, sliding doors privacy sort of feature.
First of all I want to say this is not a privacy set in the sense that it is incorrect to use
the work privacy. It is correct to say latching, so this will keep the door in a latched position
but doesn't provide privacy because when it is latched, you can come up to the handle
and push it up to pull the door open. Which suits very well for instances where there
are healthcare professionals on staff and they need to have no restriction in terms
of getting in to the bathroom. So you've got your passage version your 1069 and then your
1069L for latching, it latches but doesn't keep someone out unintentionally, but the
design of this is more what I said. It is intended so healthcare professionals can get
in. Items like this are really not used in situations that do not require complete adherence
to ADA standards. You don't generally see these in homes unless it has been requested
by someone who is physically handicapped and cannot turn or rotate their wrist at all and
the operation is just to push up or push down. So I'm going to talk about the general operation
of this item, then I'm going to talk about, or move on to talk about the installation
of the item. The general operation of this item is this. When this portion back here
and if you are just in general interested in the product, stay with us for this part.
The operation is the business end of this or the mechanism back here, the plate all
the way down would be mortised to the door. So all of this is mortised, this portion is
flush with the edge of the door, plate portion would be flush because this is all mortised
in. You install it with four screws. You insert a set screw that you are going to get, black
screw that is right at the bottom of my finger tip with a thread material on it with this
allen wrench into one of these two holes. You turn it in so that it is flush. The instructions
and by the way there is a link below this video to the cut sheet and then another to
the flyer. Trimco's one page introductory piece of information about it. The link to
the cut sheet states that in step three of the installation instructions: Install the
handing screw in the lower hole. Pardon me, install the handing screw in the appropriate
hole as shown on the drawing below. If clockwise rotation is desired, install the set screw
in the lower hole. If counter clockwise operation is desired, install it in the top hole. So
what you can see back here are those two holes that are ovaled or elongated. The operation
of this item, the mechanism is attached firmly to the edge of the door. It is screwed down
and it doesn't move. Then what happens is you either push this down, up, down or up
and that causes the mechanism to push forward. Now I can do it in both directions now because
I don't have a handing screw, but depending on your door, what side it slides into and
what side is the bathroom, you are either going to want this to tip up or down or you
might have a preference up or down. You can define this by those screws in the back. You
are always going to go back to center in a proper installation. You can see depending
on how it goes why you would use one or the other. So you install that screw and then
you'll have an operation that doesn't go like this. It will only go up and then down or
up and then down is how the proper operation would work. That is governed by that set screw
that you install either here or here. When the mechanism tips back, when the handle is
lifted up or down it forces the latch to project out. Got it right in the center and it is
flushed and that would be the rested position and as the handle is pushed down, it pops
out. The strike or the catch, the latch. Here is your strike that is mortised into the frame.
Obviously a cased opening frame and it will come in and drop down. As you can see, the
latch comes out and then down. That is how the operation is. The other steps of the installation
is: Step 1. Mortise the door. I'm going to talk about that next. Step 2. Insert the door
pull and install the pull with four screws. Once you've mortised, you are going to predrill
your holes and physically attach those to the door. The handing screw we talked about.
Install the strike in the front of the frame and confirm that your installation is accurate.
That really represents all of the discussion regarding the operation of this item. It is
quite frankly that simple. The only thing that people have said is that it doesn't provide
true privacy, and it doesn't. I can't speak for Trimco because I don't know what the design
intentions was, but this is an latching only. They've got latching and non-latching. It
is ADA compliant. From this part of the video forward, I'm going to talk specifically the
machining of a wood door and frame for this hardware. Jump off if you are not interested.
The machining of the wood door for this is, I know it can be intimidating. They've got
two templates here, and the paperwork at least with this unit you are going to get the instructions
that we just talked about that we just covered and you can see dimensionally everything important
about the item. I will go over it at the very end. On page two, you are going to have the
mortise or the template requirements for a 1-3/8" door right above my thumb, then on
the backside of all of this they've got the same drawing except that it is modified slightly
if you've got an 1-3/4" door. Your dimensions will change a bit. The dimensions change if
it's an 1-3/8" door the requirements change. The reasons that they change is, we will talk
about 1-3/4" first and then we will talk about how 1-3/8" is different. The link below this
video again to the cut sheet if you scroll all the way to the third page or page 3, what
you see there is a bunch of dimensions and when I look at this I see three different
setups that I have to do. I see two body preparations and then what is called the plate preparation
or what I would call the plate preparation. What that means is you've got this 1" tall
preparation here that goes all the way over to here, it's 1" tall and it is 1-1/8" wide
as you can see drawn here. Then you've got this rectangular preparation that is two inches
tall and only 11/16" wide. Both of those in terms of depth are indicated here. That first
one is 5/8" deep and the next one is 1-7/8" deep. Then you have a plate preparation which
is 5" tall and 1-3/8" wide. 1-3/8" wide x 5" tall. Right now, I will say where it differs
on the 1-5/8" is when you make the preparation for that plate and I will show it to you on
the hardware in a moment you would go all the way through the face of the door. You
would clear out the entire 1-3/8" width of the door or thickness of the door. Definitely
have that template open on a window or tab or screen while you are watching this because
I can't hold up both. The 5", lets talk about the plate first. You've got, forgive me, lets
talk about, I don't like to talk about the plate first, I like to do the plates last.
The deepest stuff first working out is how I would go about machining the door. That
1" tall x 1-1/8" preparation fits right in here and that is because as the mechanism
tips back and forth, you are going to have this aspect of the trim of the device/mechanism
that is going to protrude on either side. And it is this shoulder that forces the latch to come out
or come back in depending on if you are doing this or this. It is tapered though as the
latch mechanism is brought back vertical by tipping this up inside of here the backside
of the latch. The vertical backside of the latch counters the shoulder of this regulator,
I'm not sure of the proper term for it and it forces it in. So you've got to prep for
the fact that those regulators are on both sides because it is a non-handed unit. That
preparation is 1" tall, 1-1/8" wide, 5/8" deep with an 1/8" radius. So that is a bit
unusual but, the truth of the matter is, the first time I mortise for something, I go by
the template and then if I've got multiple units to do I might go a different way in
terms of making it faster when it really doesn't matter, but the template calls out for an
1/8" radius. So if it was me, I would have a template attached to the edge of the door,
there are manufacturers of tools that make that, feel free to reach out to me if you
want to discuss what I would use to do it, clamp it down to the door to have a proper
opening inside of it. You would have your plunge router, I would definitely use a plunge
router, I would like to use the lightest plunge router that I could as well. Plunge routers
are typically pretty heavy so when you are doing small mortising like this, it is more
of a challenge to wheel the heavier plunge router with higher horsepower spinning faster.
1/8" radius that means you are going to have a 1/4" two flute carbide router bit. I would
make my 1" high preparation, 1-1/8" wide, go down make it 5/8" deep. That would be the
first body, then I would probably do it in reverse. I would have the larger body, the
one I'm going to discuss now, I would probably do that first. You've got the larger 2" tall
by 11/16" preparation for this mechanism back here to recess back into the door and it is
1-7/8" deep. So template again an 1/8" radius they are calling out in 8 places. The four
for the regulator preparation or should preparation and then four more because you've got four
corners in each rectangle for the body mechanism. So I would take my router and route that out
and put it deeper and keep going until I got to 1-7/8". I would have an 1/8" radius so
I'm done with that, I would reset my template to do the 1" x 1-1/8" wide x 5/8" deep preparation
and that is looking good. Now looking at this template, the information that does not give
me, unless I am missing it, is where to start this body and this body preparation in relationship
to the top of the cut out or the centerline of the screw or any reference point. Nor does
it tell me where it is in relationship, where this is in relationship the smaller prep to
the larger prep. And at that point because the template is not noted in any scale we would default to having a caliper and physically
measuring the part. You know you have 4-1/2" center on the screws and you know your 5/8"
overall height but it doesn't tell you where to start these preparations so scaling the
drawing was probably not a good idea or the best idea. If it was me, I would get a caliper
and measure from the top of the plate down to the top of this and I might pad that up
a 1/16". Because all of this is sealed you can be a bit flexible in terms of specific
dimensions that I would pad it up or down. You want to be able to fit that in ever so
slightly. So that is a failure of the template, that's for sure. So I would caliper that to
get me a caliper something a bit more scientific then this one would be or even a rule, very
handy tools to have. So you will need to determine where those go, then you've got the 5" tall
preparation that is 1-3/8" wide and that is called out on the top and that is going to
be an easy preparation because your template goes on that is going to be on the right hand
side shown as 5/16" deep. Now the drawing shows the 1/8" dimension because in an 1-3/4'
door your 1-3/8" wide preparation for the plate doesn't go through the door completely
and the 1-3/8" template indeed shows it differently. Shows it 5/16" deep all the way down. So your
plate is going to be 1-3/8" wide, 5" tall, 5/16" deep. And at that point, the mechanism
fits in resulting in this being flush with the edge of the door that is how that will
work. And again, the only problem you will have is locating these, this preparation and
then this preparation because it is not adequately referenced. There needs to be two additional
dimensions on here as far as I'm concerned. But it happens is the bottom line. Generally
the fellow who is drafting this technical drawing maybe he has never installed it or
she has never installed it physically on the door and that could be why those dimensions
are missing, but no big deal. If you have the ability to set up a router, then you can
sure figure out where to put those, that is for sure. If you can't, feel free to call
me and I will be happy to help you. Once you've got all of that routed and again the only
difference with the 1-3/8" is how your plate is going to be mortised all the way through
the door. If you have an 1-3/8" door and your prep is an 1-3/8" wide you have to clear all
of that out. After that, you will attach it to the door frame, predrill your holes, and
you are going to get these four drywall screws. The two silver screws are going to be for
the strike and that is what we are going to talk about next. On the top of page 2 you
can see the preparations for the strike, that is going to be a similar sort of approach
with your two different preparations for the strike itself, but also the dust box that
is included. You can see that your plate is an 1/8" thick, it is 1" wide, 2-3/4" tall.
And then the preparation for the dust box is not given either. They are only giving
information for the plate. That will again be an instance where you will need to measure
how much to account for the dustbox. So you will do the preparation for the dust box first,
it's symmetrical so you can measure the overall height pad it a little bit. You don't want
to get where the screws are going to fall in and then the depth that will mount underneath
on the backside of the strike. You don't want to be able to look into the frame and see
chiseled or routed out wood. You want that dustbox back there. They do refer to the 3/4"
depth for the dustbox but not a height. You can interpret the width of it to be the same
as the width of the strike at one inch, but you are going to want to put a tape measure
on that. Putting them next to each other, it does not appear to be identical, oh no
it does and they are flush with each other when I hold them back to back. Forgive me
for not removing these from the package, this is going directly to a client and I don't
want to disturb its original condition any more then necessary. If you've got that mortised,
then test for operation. Attach the strike and test for operation. Now, another omitted
piece of information is the center line to attach both of these. The centerline of this,
you are going to want to make sure that you are within ADA compliance in terms of the
height of where you are going to install it. Typical doors are basically from the floor
to the center of a lock is about 40", that is generally within range of where you need
to be. The problem that we have here however, which is not, this is an omission, one or
two omissions on a template fine, you get into three then it is a problem. You are going
to have to physically determine where to attach this strike. You are going to have to put
that on the door, slide it over and eyeball that so that you get an idea of where this
falls, where the hook comes down or catch comes down to give you the proper engagement
with the strike. So you are going to really have to go about determining that the best
you can. Roughly looking at it here, I would say that the inside top of this strike, the
inside hole needs to obviously allow this when it is in a opened position so that it
will when you rotate it to activate it, it instantly begins to come straight out. It
instantly starts to come straight out and then drops down as you can see. So when the
door is in the open position, you are going to need to make sure that it can come and
come straight out inside of here and then it drops down. So that would probably be where
I would try to line all of that up. The center line of this needs to be the same center line
as this, so you will have to determine where that is going to fall in your frame. That
is very important. What some guys will do is they will put a little bit of something
on here so that when it touches the frame, it starts to mark it or even better, on the
frame itself because you will chisel or mortise that away, so this will make contact however
you go about doing it is fine. That information really ought to be on the template and it
is an omission that it is not on there. Hopefully in a future sort of reference, forgive me
let's start over. It is all right here. I was browbeating Trimco for the last five minutes,
so on page one of the instructions you probably noticed that and are screaming at the video.
1-3/8", 1-3/16" center line difference between the center line of the latch to the center
line of the strike, forgive me. That perfectly solves it. You still don't know the height
of the dustbox, but you can easily measure that. That really brings all of that to a
conclusion. It is a really well made item. It is a very common and popular item that
we sell all of the time because it is unique. Trimco, the quality of their fit and finish
is always excellent. The satin and nickel color on here and the only thing you are seeing
here is probably marks from my hand touching the backside with the grease on it for a smooth
operation. It is just great fit and finish every single time from Trimco. Sometimes their
products take a little longer to get, but it is always well worth the wait, that is
for sure. A couple of dimensions omitted on the template is an easy thing to look over
or look past when you get this piece of hardware and you are instantly impressed with the quality
of the fit and finish. Someone cares over there and it is probably more then one person
because the stuff always looks great. Any questions on the Trimco 1069L in a 619 Satin
Nickel Finish or another Trimco product, please feel free to reach out to us. Thank you.