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How to make a Vest. How to make a paper pattern (no lining) of handmade clothes. USAKO's Sewing Studio.
Even though the shape of a collar is different as in a picture, the way of sewing is still the same.
Front side
Place the right side fabric of front piece(waistcoat) on the right side fabric of back piece(waistcoat).
Stitch the shoulder part.
Backstitch at the beginning and at the end of sewing.
Sew the same way on the other side.
Overlap both the front piece interfacing and the back piece interfacing (both will then become the inner layer of waistcoat).
Stitch the shoulder part (of the interfacing).
Sew on the other side too.
Spread out or open the body garment that has been sewn earlier (the front piece and back piece of waistcoat).
Spread the front & back interfacing that we've sewn just now.
Overlapping the interfacing on top of the body garment together. (The right side fabric facing each other).
Open & split apart the left & right side of the seam allowance at shoulder area.
Do the same on the other side.
Join together the seam line of interfacing and body garment at shoulder area.
Align the edge
Fix the gap evenly with pin
Open & split apart the shoulder seam allowance near neck area too.
Fix the shoulder area using pin.
Align evenly the center back area.
Stitch the neck area and the center front area.
Backstitch at the beginning of sewing.
When you want to change a direction while sewing, turn around at the end stitch point (needle tucked in).
Leave the shoulder seam allowance open as it is and continue stitching.
Cut off the seam allowance about 0.5mm.
Make a notch/cut at the curve area.
Careful not to cut the seam.
Cut the seam allowance at the corner.
Cut off the seam allowance at the corner of neck area too.
Turn over the front part.
Insert your hand from back piece of body garment side, and then pull out the front piece of body garment.
At the folded corner seam allowance, hold in between your thumb and index finger and then turn it inside out.
Adjust the corner tip by using a needle.
Sew the underarm area.
Unfold the interfacing from the body garment part.
Fix it using pin.
Join together both the interfacing pieces evenly.
Open & split the left & right seam allowance.
Align the front and back seam allowance at the underarm evenly.
Stitch on the other side underarm area too.
Fold neatly the hem using iron.
Stitch the hem. When sewing, instead of referring to the needle, we can sew evenly by aligning the edge of garment folowing the machine's line on the right.
Set apart the underarm seam allowance.
Backstitch.
Top stitch the front, neck and armhole area.
To change of direction, turn around at the needle tucked point.
Stitch the armhole.
Open & split apart the left & right seam allowance.
Tack with pins to prevent them from sliding when sewing.
Stitch about 0.5cm from the edge.
Backstitch at the end of sewing.
Finished.
How to make a Vest. How to make a paper pattern (no lining) of handmade clothes. USAKO's Sewing Studio