Highlight text to annotate itX
How to make a 21' DCP Wilson Pup Trailer I will show how I make a 21 foot pup out of
a DCP Wilson grain trailer. Farmers across America have used the short sender versus
versatility. They’re great for tight places narrow driveway, plus they are nice transition
for smaller farmers who’d like to use the truck for different purposes. In parts of
North-America the short trailer can also be pulled behind a standard size grain trailer
and semi to increase capacity from field to market, a bonus for producers.
Now, your model farm can be just like the real one with a 21 foot grain trailer. To
get started making your 21 foot pup, begin by removing the rollover tarp. For full detail
on this process, see the video on how I make 28 1/2' pup. Measure from the front of the
trailer to the back of the trailer four inches. Literally, the mathematics works like this:
21 foot times twelve inches per foot divided by 64 or 1/64 scale, equals 3 15/16 inches.
So I use an even 4 inches, make your mark on the trailer, then cut.
I leave all the internal parts and cut. Once cut remove the kingpin and landing gear, I
use a screwdriver to remove this piece. I found prying from the rear first, then to
the front works well. Be careful prying the front as the whole thing can bend requiring
straightening before assembly. The hopper breaks out easy, if needed, square up the
cut ends of the trailer with a sander or file, check for square. Remove the decorative front
plastic part using a knife or a small screwdriver. Cut the sides off and away from the diecast
end. I’m using a band saw but a dremel works just as well. A coping saw or even a hack
saw will work. Remove the cut ends and tarp bows, wiggle the tarp bows and they should
come out pretty easy, if not remove the inside plastic parts on the sidewalks glued on the
inside of the trailer. Clean any of the burrs on the diecast end and apply adhesive. Take
the end cap, glue it back on and be sure to aligned well. Set it aside to dry.
Take a Dremel or file and begin to remove parts of the inside tarp rails, so the trailer
end cap will fit in. Take the same amount off both sides and be sure it fits well. If
the plastic side walls remain on the inside of the trailer remove a quarter inch of them
so the end cap fits inside. I cheat and use my Dremel, an exacto knife will work also.
Reattach the end cap using your favorite adhesive, I’m using super glue. To make a single axle
trailer, remove the tires from the front duals, depending on your cutting method the axles
may or may not need to be removed. In this example I’m leaving the axles in, on the
inside of the axle housing there is a solid piece of diecast, I use that as my guide for
cutting. Its difficult to see in the video. Use your favorite cutting tool to make a clean
cut. The rear axle will have lost the manufacturers
suspension and a spacer will be needed. I use leftover tarp rods, they work really well.
The spacer should be as wide as the actual housing. Glue the spacers in with the housing
upside down, if not the trailer’s rear end will set very low which occurs naturally anyway.
So, do use spaces, glue them in with your favorite adhesive. Place a small amount of
glue between the axle housing and the plastic piece that attaches to the trailer body. Make
sure that these pieces are square and straight. Once the trailer housing and plastic are glued
solid, add glue to the top of the plastic and insert it into the trailer body. Set it
aside to dry. The kingpin and landing gear assembly need a bit more work the diecast
will need to be ground, sanded or filed off approximately an eighth of an inch in front
of the kingpin. This is to allow enough room for the hopper.
Corners can be beveled so the assembly fits level on the trailer body. Dry fit this part
only for now. The hoppers assembly is too big to fit in the trailer. Cut the side so
the grain gate opens to the rear of the trailer. Cut the second plastic line, this will allow
the hopper piece to fit nicely. Dry fit this piece as well. A large gap will exist toward
the front of the trailer. Use leftover over plastic from the other hopper to fill this
in. The part can be laid flat or it can be fashioned to look like the existing angle
which is what I did. A noticeable cut line will exists if the cut line is not done well.
Glue this piece in. Insert the kingpin and landing gear assembly
and glue this in. Two holes for the tarp stops will need to be drilled. I use a 1/16 inch
bit, I also drill out any holes that may have glue or broken tarp stops remaining. Remove
the tarp rods and cut the tarps down to four inches or your desired length. Use a regular
scissors to cut the tarp. Cut the tarp rods to the same length. If desired the tarp can
be made to open and close. I do not do that on 21' pups due to the inside being unattractive.
Insert the tarp rods into the cut tarp and begin installing the tarp stops. A very small
amount of adhesive can be applied in the hole where the tarp starts will go. A needle nose
pliars works well for installing tarp stops. Allow them to dry then apply a small amount
of adhesive to each stop and points in between as desired.
As mentioned before, my preferences is to glue the tarp shut. I apply superglue to the
lip where the tarp folds over, hold it in place until the glue is dry. Occasionally
I use a clap to hold the parts and secure. Once dry your trailer is done, it can be used
just as in real life on a variety of semi tractors, single, tandem or behind a regular
grain trailer. I hope you found this Rockin H tutorial helpful.
While are you here, please like it, share it and subscribe to this channel, then check
out www.rockinhfarmtoys.com. Thank you so much for your attention.