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This is the first
of my ten minute tutorials
In ten minutes I shall show you
how to make up my latest pattern
The wide legged, double pleat trousers
This guide applies to making trousers in general
If you have always thought that
trousers are difficult to make
this movie is for you
Just visit my Pattern Room
to download this pattern
and print it
Tape it together
edge to edge
no overlap
no tricky markings to line up
and cut out each piece
I’m using lightweight black denim
It’s washable so pre-wash it
and zigzag the raw edges
so that it doesn’t fray
If you are taller or shorter than average
you’ll need to adjust
the waist to hip measurement
Cut along the guide line and open out
or overlap
Keep the vertical grid lines inline
and correct any distortion
at the seam lines
Do the same to all the pieces that will be at hip level
So that’s pockets as well
and also the front lining panel
Again, correcting the seam lines where necessary
This is the most important alteration you are likely to make
It affects the depth to the crotch
and makes sure that the widest part of the trousers
comes where you are widest
All other adjustments
can be made at a later stage
You could substitute the front lining panel
for a full lining
Use a washable lining
if your garment is to be washed
I have cut out my fabric
leaving ⅝” seem allowance all round
and I have transferred the markings
For a fuller tutorial on Dressmaking Basics
Watch my ‘Make Your Own Clothes Series’
and ‘Make a Dress Series’ of videos
The classic pocket styling
makes these trousers a must
for any student of dressmaking
The under pocket completes the trouser front
The top pocket forms a facing
for the pocket opening
As the pocket opening is cut on the diagonal
or the bias it will stretch
which we don’t want
We will stitch a stay along the seam line
This can be narrow cotton tape
or woven seam binding
which will not stretch
Don’t use bias binding
as this will stretch
Baste the tape to the pocket along the seam line
The first stage to attaching pockets
is to join the top pocket
to the trouser front
right sides together
along the pocket opening
The seam is stitched
incorporating the stay tape
Turn the pocket to the inside
and press ready for top stitching
I set my heart on acid yellow for these black jeans
but remembered in time
that my next project would be
to use this glorious pure silk floral
for a classic shirt
That would look great with these trousers
So I’m going for the golden yellow instead
Always practice your top stitching
I have lengthened the stitch
and find I need to tighten
the top tension considerably
to avoid these loops appearing on the wrong side
That’s much better
A perfect stitch
With the pocket opening nicely top stitched
we now need to attach the under pocket
With right sides together
It is a doddle to pin and stitch it
to the top pocket
Stitch from edge to edge
keeping the pocket free from the trouser front
When the side seams
and waistband are complete
the pocket will be firmly stitched in place
In the meantime, pin the pockets
to keep the garment in shape
as we deal with the front pleats
Pleat fronted trousers
are going to be big news
and waists are in
Trouser style is returning
to a more flattering classic look
Even though I am working with denim
these trousers speak sophistication
They are easy to wear and comfortable
and look great with a shirt tucked in
or sweater loose to the hips
Getting back to our pleats
There is no mystery here
Just fold and match the markings
Pin securely
Then run two rows of hand
or machine basting
across the trouser front
to keep everything in place
for the next stage
We are ready to get our trouser pieces together
I have decided on a zip
in the back seam
rather than a fly front
which is a little advanced
Very 60s - Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly
Slacks then, would have a back zip
and they didn’t have the technology
of the invisible zip in those days
So joining the two fronts
pin, stitch, press to one side
and top stitch
Clip the curve before pressing
So that the seam lies flat
A lovely flattering finish
Now for the front lining
which is actually a stay
The darts are stitched
and the bottom edge is finished
with either a single fold hem
or overlocking
keeping bulk to a minimum
The lining provides support for the figure
allowing the pleats to hang
as they should
You could extend this piece
to make a full lining
using a duplicate of
the back piece
I love to fully line my trousers
even jeans
Absolute luxury
This lining piece is hand tacked in place
The front is now finished
and preparing the back is simple
Insert the invisible zip
Watch my video
‘How to Make Your Own Clothes’
and then stitch the darts
pressing them towards the centre
We are now on the home stretch
You have a choice
Where would you like to see the top stitching?
American jeans, traditionally
have it on the inside leg seam
to strengthen the seam
when you are riding your horse!
Jeans for looks often have it
on the outside seam
but this can cause problems
if you have a less than
powerful sewing machine
The pockets create too many layers
So I am sticking with tradition
and maybe I’ll whack in some
traditional rivets
to reinforce the pockets
and have the top stitching
on the inside leg seam
Carefully match the centre seam and the notches
With this pattern the seams
should be the same length
But other styles may have a certain amount of easing
The seam is stitched from ankle to ankle
pressed towards the back
The curve at the crotch is clipped
and the whole length is
top stitched in one go
Zigzag or overlock to neaten
before top stitching if you like
Turn inside out
and with right sides together
match, pin and stitch
the outside leg seams
If you have any doubts about fit
just baste and try on
before stitching
Press the seam to the rear
neatening with a zigzag
or overlocking if you wish
So that’s both legs stitched
so we now have a pair of trousers
One minute to go
so a very quick guide
to attaching the waistband
and the hem
I’m using this convenient waistband interfacing
which is iron on
and incorporates stiffening
Cut it to the length of your waistband
plus seam allowance
Transfer markings
for centres and side seams
Use the interfacing as a pattern
and cut out your fabric
and iron on
Attach the waistband
right sides together
matching markings to seams
The extension should be on the right side
so it is overlapped by the left side
which is flush with the centre back
Stitch the ends
Mitre the corners
and trim excess bulk
Turn the waistband through
and tack the underside
in place over the seam
Top stitch around the waistband
from the right side
Remove tacks and basting
Check hem length
Blind hem
Press
Your done
Enjoy!