Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
Hi.
This is Tania Morimoto.
She's a graduate student here in the Department of
Mechanical Engineering at Stanford University.
And she is the awesome principal designer of Hapkit.
She's going to explain the assembly process now.
That's right.
Today we'll be walking through all the steps in
this assembly document.
Hopefully between the document and this video, the process
for assembling your own Hapkit will be both straightforward
and successful.
I suggest that you have both the assembly document as well
the video handy as we go through this process.
OK.
Let's get started.
The first step is to make sure that you have everything in
your Hapkit.
Refer to parts list, as well as the first image on your
assembly document, to make sure that you have everything.
In addition to the parts provided in the kit, you may
also need a ruler as well as a 2.4 millimeter screwdriver.
Here we have all the acrylic parts laid out just as you do
in your assembly document.
It's important to notice that each of the acrylic pieces has
a number, one through eight, labeled somewhere in the
corner on the piece.
It's important to keep this in mind during
the assembly process.
So let's begin by assembling the Hapkit frame.
The first step is to assemble our Hapkit frame.
This is easiest done with a partner since the super glue
has a tendency to dry very quickly.
It might be helpful to do it over newspaper.
But be careful not to super glue all your
pieces to the paper.
The super glue you got inside your kit may look slightly
different than this.
But in general, you need to screw the cap on in order to
break through the initial seal in the super glue.
Find the piece with the number two label and apply the glue
to this edge, as well as on the sides of
each of these tabs.
Then, with the number two facing outwards, place the tab
inside the hole on the front piece.
Now these pieces may take a little bit of time to dry.
So you might want to place them aside for a couple
minutes while you do something else in the assembly process.
For now we're going to keep going with piece number three.
Similarly, just apply the glue to both the sides
as well as the tabs.
And place it inside the other hole on the front piece.
It's important to try and make sure that these pieces are as
straight as possible, and as perpendicular to the bottom
edge of the front plate as you can possibly make it.
At this point, you might want to apply pressure, or even
just leave this piece off to the side to dry.
Once you feel that your initial frame is relatively
dry, you want to next take the base piece, piece number four.
Make sure that this number four is
labeled and facing upwards.
Then apply glue to the bottom edge of the support pieces, as
well as this front plate.
And again, apply some to the sides of each of these tabs.
Then place this inside the base.
And each of the pieces should fit inside the slots nicely.
Again, apply pressure and let this sit for a few minutes off
to the side to dry.
Once you feel that everything has been secured to the base
and it's not wiggling at all, find piece number five, as
well as the two wing nuts and the 3/4 inch screws, which you
can see here.
Now depending on whether you're right handed or left
handed, there's two different sets of
instructions at this point.
Since I'm right handed, I'm going to take the piece number
five, with the five facing up.
Flip it over this way.
And with the number five facing the back of the front
plate, we're going to use these 3/4 inch screws through
the hole, and use these wing nuts to tighten.
Now at this point you don't need to
tighten it all the way.
This is just to keep this bar in place while we assemble the
rest of the kit.
OK.
At this point, the frame of the Hapkit is assembled and
we're going to move on to the sector pulley.
Now we're on to step three, assembling the
Hapkit sector pulley.
Next look for your colored pieces of acrylic.
Each person's going to have a different colored Hapkit.
Here we have a red one.
Make sure you find--
it will be labeled six, seven, and eight.
So, as you notice, these two pieces, seven and eight, look
very similar.
But we're going to start with number seven, which has a
smaller hole area at the bottom here.
Place glue on the inside of piece number seven.
And on piece number six, it's helpful to put glue on this
part as well.
And attach number seven with the seven facing outwards to
this lower tab.
Once you feel that this is dry, you take piece number
eight and apply glue to both the back side as well as,
again, inside of this tab.
And with the eight facing outwards, you're going to
place it on this upper tab of the sector pulley.
Now these pieces in particular might take a little bit of
time to dry.
So once again, leave it to the side as you continue.
Next, take the neoprene strip inside your kit and remove the
paper backing to expose the sticky part.
Now sometimes both the paper backing as well as the
adhesive will both come off.
Don't worry about this, and just use super glue if this
happens to you.
So now with the sticky side up, or with the glue on the
top if your sticky part comes off, line up the edge of the
sector pulley to the edge of your neoprene.
And roll the sector pulley along the edge to try and get
as smooth a fit as possible.
You'll probably have a little bit of neoprene
left over at the end.
And you can just go ahead and cut this part off.
Next take the *** bushing, and making sure that this
*** part is on the same side as the etched marks at
the bottom of your sector pulley, place
it inside the hole.
Place the shoulder screw through the bushing.
And next, find your shaft collar.
It looks something like this.
Also take your at 3/32 inch hex key.
And you may need to unscrew this set screw a little bit in
order to fit it over the back of the shoulder screw.
And then tighten this set screw back in place.
Now at this point, it's important that the sector
pulley is not too loose, like this, in between this ***
and the shaft collar.
So at this point, this is too loose.
You need to loosen it, loosen the set screw and pinch this a
little bit tighter in between.
You also don't want too much friction like this, where you
can't even rotate the sector pulley as you're holding on to
the shaft collar.
It may take a couple tries in order to get the right fit.
Now on to step four, attaching the parts to the Hapkit frame.
Find your M2 screws, as well as the washers, and your 1.5
millimeter hex key.
Now the washer should slip easily on to the screws.
And we're going to use them to attach the
motor onto this frame.
Line up two of the holes of the motor with these two
openings in the front plate.
And use these screws in order to lock it into place.
Now it's important that the motor is secure
on the Hapkit frame.
But you don't want to screw down the screws so tight that
you screw them into the motor.
Next, find your two 3D printed parts.
They should look like this.
And take your magnet, and we're going to glue it to the
inside of this magnet holder.
Just apply a little bit of glue to the inside.
And the magnet should slip in easily.
Now while that's drying, we're going to take the drive wheel
and we're going to press fit it onto the front drive shaft
of the motor.
Now this part may take a little bit of force in order
to get it on.
And if you feel as though it's not pushing on well enough,
you can actually use this same hex key from before in order
to sort of clean out the inside and get rid of any wax
that may be left inside.
Now, the drive wheel does not need to be pushed all the way
onto the shaft of the motor.
It should be something close to this, though.
Similarly, take the magnet holder and press fit it onto
the back shaft of the motor.
Be careful not to press too *** the plastic part
itself, and apply most of the pressure onto the magnet so as
to not to break the piece.
Similarly, this does not need to be pressed fully into the
back of the shaft.
Now using your 1/8 inch hex key, which should be the
largest one that you have, take your sector pulley.
And we're going to now attach it to the front plate of our
Hapkit frame.
You should see a hole in the front of this height
adjustment bar that has threads.
And so it should make it relatively easy to screw the
sector pulley into the hole.
Now as you can tell, on this shoulder screw, there is a
green sort of pellet.
And once that green pellet enters into the threads, it
may become a little bit harder to turn.
But just keep going.
It's OK.
Now you want to tighten this until there's approximately a
quarter inch between the front plate here and the back of
your sector pulley.
The next part is a little bit tricky.
We're going to adjust this height bar in order to obtain
the right amount of friction between the sector pulley and
the drive wheel.
So as you can see at the back of the height adjustment bar,
one of the holes in the height adjustment bar is just a hole,
versus the other side, as you can see on the front plate
here, there's a slot.
So we're going to tighten the wing nut for the screw that's
inside the hole.
And we're going to use this slot to adjust the amount of
friction between the sector pulley and the drive wheel.
So as you can see here, this is too high.
We're not getting any friction in between the two.
But if you press this height adjustment bar down too far,
you can barely move your sector pulley.
And that's too much resistance.
So it may take a few tries in order
to adjust this correctly.
So the goal is to have this neoprene strip lightly
compressed against the drive wheel.
There should be enough friction for us though, so
that when you turn the drive wheel with your fingers, it
will move the sector pulley as well.
But again, we don't want so much resistance that we can't
even move our pulley.
Now step five, we're going to set up the electronics.
Find your two small pieces to mount our PCB.
And once again, this is our last step with gluing.
Take each of these pieces and apply a little bit
of glue on the tabs.
And be careful which one of these pieces you put in which
of these two slots in the back of your base.
So we want this slightly larger piece to go in
the hole like this.
And the smaller piece should fit in here.
Now once these are dry, find your 1/2 inch screws as well
as the nuts.
And we're going to attach the Hapkit
board using these mounts.
It's important that we attach it in this order.
So you have the magnet, and then you have the board.
Make sure that this sensor is facing the magnet.
And then we have the mounts on the opposite side.
Then using these screws, place them through the mounts and
secure it using these nuts.
Now this is the point where having that 2.4 millimeter
screwdriver could come in handy.
So now let's just double check, make sure that your MR
sensor is indeed facing the magnet.
And now we're going to attach the motor.
So as you can see, we're going to loosen these on the back of
the PCB here.
You can see they're labeled M+ and M- .
And we're going to want to place the red lead into the
top one labeled M+ .
And you can just use the same screwdriver to
tighten that in place.
Similarly, put the black one into the one labeled M- .
The last step is attaching the force sensitive resistor, or
FSR, onto the handle.
So what we have to do first is we're going to press these
leads from the FSR into the female connector, molex
connector, here.
So what you want to make sure is you press
it into these holes.
And that when you're looking at the top of the FSR here,
you want the black lead on the left and the
red lead on the right.
Now, depending on which way you assembled your Hapkit,
you're going to attach the FSR on different sides.
Basically, you want to attach FSR to the same side of the
handle that you can see this square hole on your height
adjustment bar.
So remove the backing to expose the adhesive on the
back of the FSR.
And apply some super glue onto the back of this molex
connection.
Now this connector should press into the side of the
sector pulley, into the little slot on the side here.
And the top of the FSR should stick nicely to the back of
the handle.
You can then take your cable and route it through the hole
in the height adjustment bar.
And if you bring it around to the back, you can see there is
a place to connect it into the PCB.
Now your entire Hapkit should be assembled.
And we should just go through a couple checks to make sure
that it's assembled correctly.
The first thing that we want to check is to make sure that
the amount of friction on the drive wheel is adequate.
So you want to make sure that there is enough friction.
So if you place your finger at the bottom of the drive wheel
and you try moving this sector pulley back and forth, your
finger should not be able to stop the
sector pulley from moving.
On the other hand, you want to make sure there's enough
friction so that this can easily move back and forth.
The next check that we want to make sure is that this Hapkit
board is secure.
You don't want it wiggling around at all.
The last thing you want to check is to make sure that the
magnet is approximately a centimeter away from the front
edge of the sensor.
Now hour Hapkit is fully assembled.
And when you are ready to program next week, you can
plug-in your power supply to the bottom of
the board, like this.
And you can take your USB cable, which we will use to
plug into the computer in order to program the board,
into the side of the PCB like this.
And that's it.
Thanks, Tania, for the Hapkit demo.
No problem.
And I wish you all a successful Hapkit assembly.