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Steve: Hi, it’s Steve from PartSelect. You’ve determined to drive motor on your dryer has
failed. We’re going to show you how to change it. All you’re going to need is a putty
knife, an adjustable wrench, a pair of slip joint pliers, a large straight blade screw
driver, a large Philips screw driver, 5/16th nut driver, and may be a small flat blade
screw driver, and you should probably have a pair of safety gloves and goggles. Let me
show you how it’s done.
Now the first step in this repair will be to disconnect the appliance from the power
supply, if your dryer has a cord on it, simply unplug it from the receptacle, if it’s hard
wired you will need to find the breaker and turn it off. The main top is held down with
two clips in the front corners and a couple of screws underneath the lint filter, so we’ll
remove the lint filter first set that aside.
Next we’ll remove the two Philips screws they are hidden there. Take care enough to
draw them down in to the air inlet; this is going to be difficult to retrieve. Now there
are two clips that hold the top to the front panel, they are located all about two inches
in on either side, so with our putty knife we’re going to close to the top, we locate
that, press in rid on it, and pull the top forward, we have to lift off.
Now your dryer should be push back enough so that we can support the top up against
the wall, so that it doesn’t fall backwards. Now with the main top up next thing we want
to do is disconnect the door switch harness, just two wire harness here, your dryer may
have three wire harness, but simply take small flat blade lift it in underneath the connector
free that tab and pull them apart.
Now at this point probably you’re going to want to put your safety gloves on, because
we do find that there are sharp edges on the metal here. Next there were two 5/16th hex
head screws that secure the front panel to the cabinet, simply remove those. Now we’ll
pull forward on the front panel, now the drums going to drop a little bit when we do that,
but it won’t go anywhere. Next we’re going to lift up on it, because there are two clips
on the bottom that hold it at the bottom. We have to remove the front panel we’ll
just set it aside.
Next step will be to remove the drum and the belt, now in the right front corner you see
idler assembly that the belt wraps around, take note of how that belt goes around idler
then around motor pulley then back it around the drum. So I’m going to pull the idler
pulley towards the cabinet, release the tension on it, roll the belt off of the motor pulley
and idler assembly will come way out it just sits on the base.
Next with the aid of the belt we’re just going to lift up on that drum disengage the
rear rollers and pull it through the front of the cabinet, we’ll set that aside. Now
with the drum out the way and the idler assembly out of the way we’re ready to remove the
motor and the motor is held to the motor carriage with two spring clips one at the front, a
wider one at the back, as well the blower fan is connected to the back of the dryer
it’s actually it’s rid it on to the shaft.
So we’re going to pull the harness off, remove these two clips with the blower fan
off and then we can remove the motor. And the lower clip for the wire harness from the
motor is kind of heavy install, I would suggest we take these two clips off first, and since
the spring loaded sometimes it will have to mind of the realm, it might be best if we
put our safety gases on at this point.
And with the large flat blade screwdriver just engage one end of that spring clip pry
outward on it, same thing at the rear one. Remove both of those clips we can turn the
motor slightly, so that we can get out that retaining clip for the motor harness, just
get that out, and remove the harness. Now you’ll notice that the back of the motor
where that blower wheel sits on there, the blower wheel has a square shank on it.
We’re going to take a larger adjustable wrench and Fas nut right to the blower wheel
straight down the motor with the left hand thread so basically it means we turn clock
wise to loosing it, the pair of slip joint pliers and grab the front of the motor shaft
with adjustable wrench and hold on to the blower, now that normally firmly tight, so
you may have to give it a pretty good snap to get it loose, once it freed up these will
turn off pretty easy.
Now we can lift the motor out of its cradle, we’re ready to install the new one. Now
take note of the new motor that you’ve gotten it will come with a single drive pulley on
it, if your original has a single drive pulley on it then just straight exchange, you may
have a type it has a two speed at that point you can elect to take the old pulley off of
your old motor and install it on the new motor.
As well take note of the motor harness connector and switch if they are not the same the instruction
sheet that comes with the new motor will indicate what modifications need to be made. On this
particular one it’s a straight exchange, so that will be nice and easy. We’re going
to engage the rear shaft in to the blower wheel and then just let the motor sit in with
harness loosely, and then we’ll try to spread that motor shaft on to the blower.
We have to hold that blower wheel towards the front of the dryer enough of the switch
to start to engage. Once you started we want to lift that motor up and make sure that the
two bushings sit in to the cradle properly. Now with our adjustable wrench, our channel
locks, I’ll lock that blower wheel on to the motor shaft, now we’re ready to reinstall
two mounting clips.
Again you should have a safety goggles on for this, wider part of that rear clamp two
elongated tabs they go to the very back, here slots in the two front portions that will
hock on to the motor mount. We’ll engage one side and with our flat blade put some
pressure on the other side until it hocks in place, and
then repeat that procedure for the front one, reinstall the wire harness to the motor, make
sure that the locking tabs are outside the body of the switch, and lock firmly in place.
Now we’re ready to put our idler assembly back in and the drum.
Now that we have the motor in place I take some time and show you where the idler bracket
should sit, the slot in the base frame the front of that idler bracket sits in to there,
those two little tabs that will hock in on the back. So when we finished position it
should look like this, and our belt will come around over the top of the idler beneath it
around the motor pulley and back out and around the drum. And this will tent to flop around
a bit while you’re putting the belt on, as long as you know the position that it should
end up in you would be able to get it in place.
We’re ready to reinstall the drum, we want to make sure that this clew sits over top
of the two rear rollers, and we may have to rotate it a bit just to give it fall in to
place, align the belt up approximately where the wire marks will be on the outside of the
drum, and we’ll reach in from the front, and we’ll rotate that belt around the idler
and the motor pulley.
And we can rotate the drum clockwise just hold against the back bulkhead; make sure
that belt lines itself up. Now we’re ready to reinstall the front panel. Our two spare
rectangular hole at the bottom of the front panel and we want to clip those just slide
those over those two clips on the cabinet, this point you will have to hold the drum
back in to place and we’re ready to reinstall the two 5/16th screws.
Next reconnect the door switch harness connector, make sure it snaps firmly in place, we’re
ready to put the top down, just pull forward on a bit, and then press down firmly in each
corner. Next we’ll reinstall the two Philips screws connect the top to the lint filter
holder, and again make sure that we don’t drop those screws down that opening, slide
the lint filter back in to place, reconnect the power and our repair is complete.
We told you it was an easy job. Thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.