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THAT'S ONE OF THE THINGS I LOVE ABOUT SOUTH BEACH--
IT REALLY FEELS LIKE
YOU'RE LIVING INSIDE GRAND THEFT AUTO VICE CITY.
I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE (bleep) IS GOING ON.
WHAT OTHER MAJOR METROPOLIS IS-- WOULD THAT BE ACCEPTABLE?
WRAPPING YOUR LIPS AROUND THIS IS A CHALLENGE.
I HEAR THAT A LOT.
(cheers)
SO EXCITED ABOUT A BOAT RIDE. BOAT RIDE!
YEAH!
OH, MAN...
HOPE THIS LIGHT TURNS QUICK.
♪ 24 HOURS TO GET BACK TO YOU ♪
Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
(jets humming, tone chimes)
(man over P.A.) THE CAPTAIN HAS SIGNALED
OUR FINAL APPROACH INTO MIAMI.
AT THIS TIME, WE REQUEST ALL PASSENGERS
ONCE AGAIN BE SEATED WITH YOUR SEAT BELTS SECURELY FASTENED.
(engines roaring)
FLYING INTO MIAMI, TO SOUTH FLORIDA--
IT'S LIKE FLYING TO NO PLACE ELSE THAT I KNOW
HERE IN THE UNITED STATES.
I REMEMBER WHEN I FIRST CAME TO MIAMI.
I--THEY OPENED THE DOOR OF THE PLANE...
OH, GOSH. FIRST OF ALL, THE SUN.
UM, YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE SUN.
AND THEN THE VISUAL.
THE TREES.
ALL THESE WACKY PALM TREES, YOU KNOW,
GOING UP, AND THEN THERE'S A LITTLE THING UP THERE.
IF YOU THINK ABOUT IT,
YOU ARE IN THE CENTER OF THE WORLD.
(engines roaring)
MIAMI--I SEEM TO FIND AN EXCUSE TO COME TO THIS PLACE
AT LEAST TWICE A YEAR.
IT'S THE MAIN STOP-OFF
BETWEEN NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICA.
AND TRUST ME-- IT'S WORTH LEAVING THE AIRPORT
TO MAKE THE MOST OF ANY LAYOVER YOU MAY HAVE HERE.
YOU GOT TWO OPTIONS WHEN FLYING IN--
MIAMI INTERNATIONAL OR FORT LAUDERDALE.
FROM MIAMI INTERNATIONAL, YOU CAN TAKE THE SuperShuttle
INTO THE CITY FOR 19 BUCKS.
OR YOU TAKE A TAXI FOR $32
AND BE AT THE BEACH IN LESS THAN 30 MINUTES.
(seagulls chirping)
SONNY CROCKETT, PEDAL TO THE FLOOR
IN A BRIGHTLY COLORED FERRARI,
A CIGARETTE BOAT TEARS ACROSS BISCAYNE BAY,
PASTEL COLORS, DECO BUILDINGS,
PALETTE-LOADS OF COKE,
AL PACINO IN RICKY RICARDO MODE,
INTRODUCING YOU TO HIS "LITTLE FRIEND."
THAT'S THE MIAMI OF THE IMAGINATION...
MY IMAGINATION, ANYWAY.
REALITY HAS COME TO RESEMBLE THE FICTION.
THE ABANDONED HOTELS
MICHAEL MANN HAD PAINTED FOR "MIAMI VICE"...
ACTUALLY LOOK LIKE THAT NOW
AND ARE FILLED WITH PEOPLE DROPPING DOLLARS
THEY MADE ON MORE CONVENTIONAL VENTURES.
TODAY, MIAMI IS MADE UP OF MANY DISTINCT DISTRICTS,
INCLUDING SOUTH BEACH,
THE WATERWAYS OF THE MIAMI ISLANDS,
HISTORICAL CORAL GABLES,
AND THE RECENTLY REVIVING NEIGHBORHOODS
OF WYNWOOD, THE DESIGN DISTRICT,
AND DOWNTOWN MIAMI.
AND, OF COURSE,
NOT TO BE OVERLOOKED ON A VISIT
ARE THE NEIGHBORHOODS OF LITTLE HAVANA
AND LITTLE HAITI.
SINCE UNDER IT ALL,
OR MORE ACCURATELY, RIGHT THERE TO SEE,
IS THE FACT THAT MIAMI IS THE MOST LATIN AMERICAN
OF CITIES--
HOME TO UNTOLD NUMBERS OF CUBANS,
SOUTH AMERICANS, AND ALSO CARIBBEAN IMMIGRANTS,
WITH ALL THE GOOD STUFF THAT COMES WITH THAT.
JUST AS LOS ANGELES IS NOT HOLLYWOOD,
MIAMI IS NOT SOUTH BEACH.
BU THAT'S WHERE I STAY, ANYWAY.
WHY?
HI!
'CAUSE I LIKE IT.
SOUTH BEACH TAKES UP THE SOUTHERNMOST BLOCKS
OF MIAMI BEACH ISLAND.
THERE ARE, OF COURSE, MANY HOTEL OPTIONS HERE,
MOST RIGHT ON THE BEACH,
JUST LIKE YOU WANTED THERE TO BE,
AND FOR EVERY BUDGET.
BUT IF YOU WANT HUGE AND STRANGE AND WONDERFUL
AND A "THEY JUST DON'T-- AND COULDN'T--MAKE THEM
LIKE THIS ANYMORE,"
MAYBE THE ENORMOUS GRAND HOTEL BILTMORE
IN CORAL GABLES IS FOR YOU.
SPANISH-STYLE ESTATE,
OLD FLORIDIAN GLAMOUR,
AND A 23,000-SQUARE-FOOT SWIMMING POOL
WHERE JOHNNY WEISSMULLER AND ESTHER WILLIAMS
FROLICKED BETWEEN COCKTAILS.
BUT ME-- I STAY AT THE RALEIGH.
AND I COME HERE NOT JUST FOR THE BAR,
OR THE OLD-SCHOOL INTERIOR,
OR EVEN THE GORGEOUS POOL,
BUT BECAUSE IT'S ONE OF THE FEW,
OFFBEAT, GROWN-UP,
SLIGHTLY DYSFUNCTIONAL REFUGES I TRULY AND DEEPLY LOVE.
IT'S A PLACE THAT FEELS LIKE HOME,
LARGELY BECAUSE OF THIS WOMAN--
CONCIERGE AND AUTHORITY ON EVERYTHING IMPORTANT IN MIAMI,
CRISPY.
HOW CAN I HELP YOU?
UH, WELL, I GOTTA--YOU GOT ME A CAR? SOMETHING--
IT'S KIND OF SASSY AND KIND OF SPORTY,
AND I THINK IT'LL BE PERFECT FOR YOU IN MIAMI.
I WANTED SOMETHING THAT, LIKE,
IF I WAS PLAYING "GRAND THEFT AUTO"...
OKAY.
IT'S A CAR THAT I WOULD STEAL
AND DRIVE FOR A WHILE, AND THEN...
WITH MIAMI, I THINK, YOU KNOW,
YOU HAVE SO MANY, LIKE, HIGH SPORTY KIND OF CARS...
MM-HMM.
AND IF YOU WANNA BLEND IN, YOU CAN,
AND IF YOU WANNA SASS IT OUT,
YOU CAN KIND OF PUNCH IT OUT AND BE NOTICEABLE.
AWESOME.
SOMETIMES YOU NEED TO JUST EMBRACE YOUR INNER ***.
(engine starts, revs)
AND DRIVING AROUND SOUTH BEACH,
YOU MAY AS WELL DRIVE THE CAR YOU NEVER WOULD
IN ANY OTHER SITUATION.
COME ON. YOU KNOW YOU WANT TO.
THIS IS THE ONE TOWN YOU WON'T STICK OUT
IN A CAR 20 YEARS TOO YOUNG FOR YOU
AND WAY TOO BRIGHT AND WAY TOO FAST.
THAT'S WHAT I'M HERE FOR, ME AND MY RED CAR--
I'M PUTTING THE *** BACK IN MIAMI.
(engine revs)
IT IS MY RIGHT AS AN AMERICAN TO COME TO SOUTH BEACH
AND BEHAVE LIKE A ***.
ACTUALLY, NO, I'M OVER THE AGE LIMIT TO DO THAT.
IT'S REALLY UNACCEPTABLE.
EURO-***.
I COULD COME AND ACT LIKE A EURO-***.
THAT WOULD BE OKAY.
YOU KNOW, THAT'S ONE OF THE THINGS
I LOVE ABOUT SOUTH BEACH--
REALLY FEELS LIKE YOU'RE LIVING INSIDE
GRAND THEFT AUTO VICE CITY.
(engine revs)
I ALWAYS FEEL THIS SORT OF NOT-SO-SECRET COMPULSION
TO, YOU KNOW, SIDESWIPE PEOPLE AND BEAT PROSTITUTES TO DEATH.
AND WHO DOESN'T?
OF COURSE, YOU COULD WALK...
OR BIKE AROUND LIKE THE LOCALS DO.
I'VE HEARD THERE'S A PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION SYSTEM
THAT GETS YOU JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE YOU WANNA GO
WITH A $2 EASY PASS.
BUT FOR (beep) SAKE, YOU'RE IN MIAMI.
IT'S VACATION.
(man) ANTHONY!
I SEE YOU EVERY DAY, MAN! YOU'RE THE BEST, BRO!
(laughs) THANK YOU, BROTHER!
I CAN'T BELIEVE IT! WELCOME TO MIAMI, MAN!
(laughs)
YOU GOTTA LOVE THAT.
WALKING DOWN THE MAIN DRAG OF THE CITY,
YOUR *** CHEEKS FLAPPIN' FOR EVERYBODY TO SEE.
I DON'T KNOW. WHAT OTHER MAJOR METROPOLIS IS--
WOULD THAT BE ACCEPTABLE?
LUNCH OPTIONS IN SOUTH BEACH?
MEH--NOT SO MUCH.
I USUALLY HEAD OVER TO GET A COLUMBIAN MUTANT HOT DOG.
COLUMBIANS LIKE TO DO STRANGE
AND WONDERFUL THINGS TO THEIR DOGS.
AND THERE'S A LOT OF PLACES AROUND MIAMI LIKE THIS.
BUT I COME HERE--
LA PERRADA DE EDGAR LOCATED IN NORTH MIAMI BEACH.
SO MUCH TO CHOOSE FROM.
CHEF EDGAR GOMEZ
MOVED TO MIAMI ABOUT FIVE YEARS AGO
AND HE'S BEEN SERVING UP THESE TUBE-SHAPED BEASTS SINCE.
TODAY HE OFFERS 21 DIFFERENT TAKES
ON THE NOBLE ***,
SOME INTERGALACTICALLY STRANGE.
CAN I HAVE, UH, A COLUMBIAN?
UH, ALSO...
OTRO... UH, THE... SUPER EDGAR.
OKAY.
THAT SOUNDS LIKE A PLAN.
FIRST UP--THE COLUMBIAN.
TOPPED WITH MOZZARELLA CHEESES,
ONION IN A PINK SAUCE,
BASICALLY A MIXTURE OF MAYO AND KETCHUP,
HIS SECRET HOUSE SAUCE,
MUSTARD, AND FINALLY TOPPED WITH POTATO STICKS.
AH. GRACIAS.
OKAY.
HO HO HO. LOOK AT THAT.
HOLY CRAP, THAT THING IS HUGE.
(crunch)
MMM.
THAT IS DELICIOUS.
AH. GRACIAS.
OH, THIS IS AWESOME.
(crunch)
WRAPPING YOUR LIPS AROUND THIS IS A CHALLENGE.
I HEAR THAT A LOT.
YOU COULD, ON THE OTHER HAND,
GO MORE TRADITIONAL CUBAN FOR LUNCH.
LIKE LAS OLAS IN SOUTH BEACH.
CASH ONLY, POPULAR WITH THE LOCALS,
AND LINE RIGHT UP FOR ROPA VIEJA
OR RICE AND BEANS THAT WILL MAKE YOU VERY, VERY HAPPY.
THE STAFF SPEAKS MOSTLY SPANISH,
BUT YOU LEARNED THAT IN HIGH SCHOOL, RIGHT?
IF NOT, JUST POINT AND SMILE.
OVER IN WEST MIAMI,
THERE'S EL PALACIO DE LOS JUGOS,
WHICH, I BELIEVE, MEANS "PALACE OF JUICES."
NOT JUST JUICES--
IT'S A JUMBLE OF DIFFERENT STANDS ALL UNDER ONE ROOF.
YOU CAN GET FRIED PLANTAINS-- THAT'S PLÁTONOS,
MORE CUBAN RICE AND BEANS, THAT'S ARROZ CONGRI,
AND CHICHARRÓNES, WHICH--
YOU DON'T NEED TO KNOW WHAT THEY ARE. JUST EAT THEM.
YOU KIND OF HAVE TO HAVE A CUBAN GRILLED
OR ROAST PORK SANDWICH, OR PAN CON ***ÓN--
IT'S CHEAP AND DELICIOUS AND A FAR CRY FROM ANY FOOD
THAT YOU'RE GONNA FIND AT YOUR HOTEL.
ME--EDGAR'S SPECIAL, PLEASE.
WHA--?
HOT DOG WITH CHEESE,
PINEAPPLE JELLY AND WHIPPED CREAM,
GARNISHED WITH DRIED FRUITS AND A LITTLE STRAWBERRY SAUCE?
IT'S LIKE GAY FRANKEN-DOG.
SPECIAL.
OH, AWESOME.
WHAT--WOW.
THAT SHOULDN'T BE GOOD, BUT...
IT KIND OF IS.
EVERYONE'S GOT SOME TWIST ON THE HOT DOG.
IN MIAMI, BECAUSE THERE'S SO MANY PEOPLE FROM ALL OVER, UH,
LATIN AMERICA AND--AND THE CARIBBEAN,
THERE'S, OF COURSE, A MAGNET ALSO,
FOR A--A PLETHORA, ONE MIGHT SAY,
OF, UH, TUBULAR MUTATIONS.
AND DELICIOUS ONES, LIKE THIS ONE...
AND THAT ONE.
AND REALLY WACKY (bleep) LIKE THIS.
IT'S ALL--I FEEL ALL STICKY...
AND ASHAMED.
DRIVING DOWN COLLINS AVENUE ON SOUTH BEACH,
YOU QUICKLY REALIZE THAT DOUCHY-NESS
DOESN'T JUST HAPPEN-- YOU GOTTA WORK FOR IT.
I SHOULD HAVE BEEN DOING STEROIDS FOR, LIKE, SIX MONTHS
BEFORE GETTING INTO THIS CAR, YOU KNOW?
LIKE, TO INCREASE MY... MY DOUCHY-NESS.
(engine revs)
AND... THERE'S THIS.
YEAH!
(horn honks)
(laughs) OH, MAN.
HOPE THIS LIGHT TURNS QUICK.
FEW YEARS BACK, I WAS A GUEST ON A SHOW
MAYBE YOU HEARD OF CALLED "MIAMI INK."
AND I DEVELOPED A RELATIONSHIP WITH THE PLACE,
AND MORE IMPORTANTLY, WITH THIS GUY--
MASTER TATTOO ARTIST CHRIS GARVER.
(tattoo gun buzzing)
HE'S INKED ME TWO TIMES SO FAR,
AND IT'S BECOME KIND OF A REGULAR THING FOR ME.
WHEN IN MIAMI-- GARVER. TATTOO.
HOW BIG DO YOU WANNA DO IT? LIKE, ABOUT THIS BIG?
YEAH.
(buzzing)
OH, SORRY, I DIDN'T EVEN GIVE YOU A WARNING.
OH, THAT'S ALL RIGHT. BEEN HERE BEFORE.
I'D TELL YOU THE WHOLE STORY BEHIND THIS DESIGN--
THE INSPIRATION BEING THE WORKS AND CREDO
OF THE FRENCH ESSAYIST MICHEL de MONTAIGNE
AND THE GREEK SKEPTICS,
AND THAT IT MEANS BASICALLY, "I SUSPEND JUDGMENT."
BAH. (bleep) IT LOOKS COOL, RIGHT?
(buzzing)
♪♪
HOW MANY TIMES YOU BEEN TO MIAMI NOW?
(buzzing continues)
I MUST--I'M HERE AT LEAST TWICE A YEAR.
YEAH?
I FIND SOME EXCUSE TO COME DOWN HERE.
YEAH.
YOU KNOW, COUPLE OF DAYS IN MIAMI--YOU KNOW? PERFECT.
I ALWAYS KEEP IT, LIKE, RIDICULOUSLY SIMPLE.
NEVER REALLY GO OUT TO FINE DINING.
HAVEN'T REALLY FOUND THE PERFECT CUBAN PLACE YET.
YOU KNOW, FOR ME, I CAN'T REALLY HAVE FINE DINING TOO MUCH.
YOU KNOW, BUT LIKE, EVERY--
I DON'T KNOW HOW PEOPLE CAN DO IT EVERY--EVERY DAY.
YEAH. I'M IN, LIKE, VACATION MODE WHEN I COME DOWN HERE.
I DON'T WANNA SIT AT A WHITE TABLECLOTH
FOR FOUR HOURS, YOU KNOW?
IT'S A LITTLE TOO STUFFY.
YEAH.
YOU WANNA RELAX.
FOR SOME PEOPLE, RELAXING IN MIAMI
MAY BE A DAY AT THE BEACH.
FOR OTHERS, IT'S HAVING A NEEDLE FULL OF INK
DRILLED UNDER YOUR SKIN.
ALL RIGHT. I THINK THAT OUGHT TO DO IT, TONY.
MAN, THAT LOOKS GOOD. THAT LOOKS REALLY, REALLY GREAT.
COOL.
LOVE THE RELIEF WORK ON IT AND STUFF. IT'S BEAUTIFUL.
LET ME GO LOOK IN THE MIRROR.
I'M REALLY HAPPY.
AWESOME. SO YOU'LL TAKE IT?
OH, IT'S GREAT.
YOU WANT ME TO WRAP IT UP AND YOU CAN TAKE IT HOME?
I GUESS I'LL--I'LL TAKE THIS ONE... (laughs)
I HAVE A SECOND PART TO MY TATTOO RITUAL WHEN IN MIAMI--
AFTERWARDS, IT'S OVER TO MAC'S CLUB DEUCE,
CONVENIENTLY LOCATED RIGHT ACROSS THE STREET.
AH. SO I HAVEN'T BEEN TO THE DEUCE...
THIS EARLY IN A WHILE. (laughs)
I GOTTA HONOR TRADITION.
TRADITION ABSOLUTELY REQUIRES...
TATTOO, DRINK AT DEUCE.
KIND OF DOES GO TOGETHER, HUH?
AND, HEY, IT'S HAPPY HOUR.
THIS PLACE HAS BEEN AROUND SINCE, LIKE, 1926.
I DON'T DOUBT IT.
AND IT JUST--I HOPE IT STAYS ALWAYS EXACTLY AS IT IS NOW.
DAVE, GET--GET ANTHONY A BEER.
ONE OF THE LAST TRUE DIVE BARS IN SOUTH BEACH,
THIS PLACE NEVER SEEMS TO CHANGE,
AND IT'S A GLORIOUS REFUGE FOR DISTINGUISHED GUESTS
FROM ALL WALKS OF LIFE--
PERFECT FOR LATE AFTERNOONS OR LATE NIGHTS.
REMEMBER WHAT I TOLD YOU ABOUT "MIAMI VICE"
AND MICHAEL MANN?
THE SIGN THERE IS A LEFTOVER FROM A SHOOT.
BUT IF YOU ARE OFFENDED BY CIGARETTE SMOKE,
AND NEED TO SEE OILY, BARELY CONCEALED CHESTICLES
WHILE YOU DRINK, YOU CAN GO ELSEWHERE.
ALSO IN SOUTH BEACH, YOU COULD GO TO THE ROOM,
A CIVILIZED ALTERNATIVE SERVING HANDCRAFTED BEERS
AND AN ECLECTIC SELECTION OF WINES.
THE GENERALLY LAID-BACK AND PRETTY MELLOW CROWD,
HIDDEN ON A BACKSTREET,
RIGHT AROUND THE CORNER FROM THE REST OF SOUTH BEACH,
AND STILL FAR AWAY FROM THE MADNESS.
BUT FOR ME, IT'S ALWAYS ABOUT THE DEUCE.
IT'S FUNNY, I REALIZE... NOW I REMEMBER.
THIS WAS THE FIRST PLACE...
THE FIRST TIME I EVER CAME TO MIAMI,
HAD A COUPLE OF FRIENDS DOWN HERE,
AND THIS IS THE FIRST PLACE THEY BROUGHT ME.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT THAT SAYS ABOUT ME.
(woman) VERY SMART FRIENDS.
RIGHT AWAY, SAID...
THIS IS THE FIRST PLACE?
THIS WAS THE FIRST PLACE THEY BROUGHT ME.
THEY SAID, "DON'T EVEN WASTE YOUR TIME ANYPLACE ELSE."
I AGREE.
"WE KNOW YOU WELL ENOUGH TO KNOW
THAT THIS IS WHERE YOU SHOULD BE SPENDING YOUR TIME."
YEAH.
WE CAME HERE IN THE AFTERNOON
AND GOT COMPLETELY AND HORRENDOUSLY (bleep).
AND THAT WAS PRETTY MUCH IT FOR THE NIGHT. YEAH.
(laughter)
(clock ticking)
(clicking)
MIAMI HAS BECOME TOO BIG FOR ME...
ALTHOUGH IT'S FABULOUS.
SO LIVING HERE, I CAN GET A COMBINATION
OF THE SENSE OF THE CARIBBEAN AND STILL BE IN THE CITY.
AND MIAMI IS RIGHT ON THE BORDER
BETWEEN NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICA.
AND IN SOME MAPS OF THE CARIBBEAN,
MIAMI ACTUALLY FITS INTO THE CARIBBEAN.
THERE'S MANY THINGS YOU CAN DO IN MIAMI.
PEOPLE THAT USED TO-- TO THE PALM TREES
AND THE BEACH AND THE SAND.
BUT, YOU KNOW, YOU CAN THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX.
THERE'S A LOT OF THINGS YOU CAN DO OUT OF THE ROUTINE.
A LOT OF THINGS.
ASK YOURSELF WHEN YOU'RE IN A NEW TOWN
FOR A LIMITED PERIOD OF TIME,
WHAT DO THEY DO HERE THAT THEY DON'T DO ELSEWHERE?
WHAT'S UNIQUE?
YOU DON'T SEE A LOT OF THIS WHERE I COME FROM--JAI-ALAI.
ORIGINATING IN BASQUE SPAIN,
MIAMI'S THE ONLY PLACE IT'S PLAYED PROFESSIONALLY.
WE'RE HEADED TO SEE A GAME IN ALLAPATTAH--
IT'S A NEIGHBORHOOD NORTHWEST OF DOWNTOWN MIAMI
AND ABOUT A 30-MINUTE DRIVE FROM SOUTH BEACH.
NOW I'VE NEVER BEEN TO A JAI-ALAI GAME,
AND NEITHER HAS CHRIS,
SO THIS IS A NEW EXPERIENCE FOR BOTH OF US.
(Chris) OH, THIS IS OLD SCHOOL.
LIKE THE O.T.B.
OH, THERE'S A BAR. THAT'S GOOD.
THE ONLY THING I DO KNOW ABOUT THIS GAME
IS THAT YOU CAN WIN OR LOSE MONEY BETTING ON IT.
NOT KNOWING WHO OR WHAT TO BET ON,
WE QUICKLY FORM A STRATEGY.
WE'RE LOOKING TO BET ON SOMEBODY IN THE 11th GAME.
WE'RE LOOKING TO BET ON THE OLDER GUY.
WITH THE EXPERIENCE. THAT'S ALL WE CARE ABOUT.
THIS GUY IS--IS... (speaks indistinctly)
13.
ALL RIGHT.
NUMBER 13?
WE WANT NUMBER 13.
20.
20 WHAT? WHAT DO YOU WANNA DO?
PLACE?
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
PLACE?
OR WIN?
WIN. TO WIN. LET'S GO. LET'S GO TO WIN.
COME ON.
ONE TO WIN, ONE TO PLACE.
JUST TO PLAY IT SAFE.
I'M--I'M ON-- I'M ON A WINNING STREAK, TOO,
SO I'M--I'M FEELING GOOD ABOUT THIS.
YOU'RE GOING TO WIN.
YEAH.
(laughter)
THANK YOU.
ALL RIGHT. WANNA GRAB A COUPLE OF BEERS FOR THIS?
I THINK I'M GONNA HAVE TO.
YEAH.
THOUGH IT COMES FROM SPAIN,
JAI-ALAI WAS BROUGHT TO MIAMI FROM CUBA IN THE 1920s
AND IS STILL PRETTY POPULAR
WITH THE CUBAN COMMUNITY DOWN HERE.
SO YOU'RE PRETTY INTERESTED IN THIS STUFF, THOUGH, HUH?
(laughs)
I AM, KIND OF.
I MEAN, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE (bleep) IS GOING ON.
YEAH, IT'S KIND OF HARD TO FIGURE OUT, HUH?
(man on P.A. speaking indistinctly)
NOW IF GUYS WITH WICKER SCOOPS
ATTACHED TO THEIR ARMS THROWING BALLS AT EACH OTHER
DOESN'T FLOAT YOUR BOAT, YOU MIGHT WANT TO INVESTIGATE
SOME OF THE ARCHITECTURAL ODDITIES OF SOUTH FLORIDA.
A PICTURE BOOK OF CORAL GABLES THEN
AND A SLOW CAR RIDE AROUND CORAL GABLES NOW
WOULD ACTUALLY BE KIND OF COOL.
YOU'LL SEE HOMES AND PLAZAS BUILT MOSTLY DURING THE 1920s
WHEN DEVELOPERS HAD THIS ROMANTIC, SEMI-DERANGED IDEA
OF CREATING MIAMI'S OWN VERSION OF VENICE.
OR YOU COULD TAKE A HARD LOOK AT SOUTH BEACH'S DECO MADNESS
ON OCEAN AVENUE--STRAIGHT OUT OF "GRAND THEFT AUTO."
OR REGENERATING WYNWOOD DISTRICT
WITH LOTS OF GALLERIES AND STREET ART,
IF YOU'RE INTO THAT SORT OF THING.
BUT I'M TOO BUSY RAKING IN THE DOUGH
IN THE MOSTLY EMPTY JAI-ALAI PALACE.
YEAH! THAT'S GOOD FOR US!
IS IT?
(laughs) HE DROPPED IT.
THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT.
I GUESS THEY SAY THIS IS THE FASTEST SPORT IN THE WORLD
BECAUSE THEY'RE HURLING THAT BALL, LIKE, TWICE THE SPEED
OF, LIKE, A BASEBALL PITCHER.
YEAH.
THAT BALL COULD PROBABLY, YOU KNOW,
DRIVE RIGHT INTO YOUR BRAIN, YOU KNOW?
OH, SURE.
GUESS THEY'RE WEARING HELMETS FOR A REASON.
ALL KINDS OF, UH, MAXILLOFACIAL AND GENITAL INJURY.
SURE.
OH!
(whistle blows)
LOOKING GOOD.
THINK, UH, IF YOU'RE AT THE TOP OF THE THING THERE, THEN...
I THINK THE GAME'S OVER. I THINK WE (bleep) WON.
I SHOULD HAVE BET ON THE WIN, TOO.
SMOKIN'. LET'S GO-- LET'S GO COLLECT OUR WINNINGS.
IS THE GAME OVER?
I BELIEVE IT IS.
YOU THINK SO?
YEAH.
MAYBE IT IS. WE'LL FIND OUT.
(Anthony laughs)
38 BUCKS.
SWEET.
38 BUCKS.
THANK YOU, SIR. ALMOST DOUBLED MY MONEY THERE.
OKAY.
YOU KNOW, REMEMBER, KIDS,
FORGET ABOUT SCHOOL.
(man) 34 FOR YOU.
GAMBLE.
UNCLE TONY DID.
(laughs)
I THINK IT'S TIME TO SPEND SOME OF MY EARNINGS ON FOOD.
SO WE'RE HEADING TO DOWNTOWN MIAMI,
A ONCE-NEGLECTED PART OF THE CITY.
BUT RECENTLY, THE CITY'S REGENERATION SCHEME
HAS BEEN TRANSFORMING THE AREA,
AND THE ARTISTS ARE MOVING IN,
AND THE RENTS, OF COURSE, MOVING UP.
DINNER--WE PICK GARCIA'S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT.
NO FLASH, NO PRETENSE,
JUST SIMPLE WOODEN TABLES BY THE MIAMI RIVER
AND GOOD, FRESH LOCAL FISH.
IT CAN'T BE UNDERSTATED, THE IMPORTANCE,
OR DEPTH TO THE TORTURED RELATIONSHIP
BETWEEN MIAMI CUBANS AND THEIR HOMELAND.
THE GENERALLY ACCEPTED BELIEF
IS THAT THE MIAMI CUBANS WERE ALL RICH GUYS--
LANDOWNERS, DESPOTS, EXPLOITERS,
AND PRO-BATISTA MILLIONAIRES
WHO HAD TO GET OUT WHEN THE CORRUPT GOVERNMENT FELL.
NOT SO.
RESTAURATEUR LUIS GARCIA, WHO, WITH HIS MOM AND BROTHER,
TOOK OVER THE BUSINESS WHEN HIS DAD PASSED.
HIS DAD RAN A SMALL SHOP SELLING FISH BACK IN CUBA.
WHEN HE FLED WITH HIS FAMILY TO MIAMI IN THE '60s,
AFTER THEY TOOK IT AWAY,
HE STARTED A SMALL MARKET SELLING SEAFOOD,
HIRING FRIENDS AS FISHERMEN.
TODAY, THOSE SAME FISHERMEN ARE STILL BRINGING IN THE CATCH
FOR GARCIA'S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, MARKET,
AND FISH WHOLESALE BUSINESS.
THEY STILL MAINTAIN THEIR OWN FISHING BOATS
AND DOCK RIGHT UP TO THE RESTAURANT
TO DROP OFF THEIR CATCH.
SO WE HAVE TWO FISH COMING, HUH?
YEAH.
TODAY WE'VE GOT HOG SNAPPER AND YELLOWTAIL,
GRILLED SHRIMP WITH OLD BAY,
LEMON AND HERB AND GARLIC.
WANT A SLIGHTLY MORE TRICKED-OUT AMBIENCE?
YOU CAN TRY THE EXCELLENT RIVER OYSTER BAR DOWNTOWN...
(indistinct conversations)
WHERE CHEF DAVID BRACHA
OFFERS LARGELY LOCAL AND ORGANIC CUISINE.
AT THE HORSESHOE-SHAPED BAR,
YOU CAN ENJOY THEIR TAKE ON CLASSICS LIKE CIOPPINO
OR SEAFOOD STEW OR ROASTED LOBSTER.
BUT I'M HAPPY TONIGHT AT GARCIA'S.
NICE. OOH, THAT'S GOOD-LOOKING.
BEAUTIFUL.
THANKS.
SO HOW DIFFERENT IS CUBAN FOOD HERE THAN IN, UH, CUBA?
WELL, I MEAN, THIS WOULD BE UNTHINKABLE.
THEY DON'T HAVE THIS.
THEY DON'T GET THIS MUCH PROTEIN.
THEY--YOU--YOU WOULDN'T GET THIS ANYWHERE.
PEOPLE GOTTA HUSTLE ALL DAY LONG,
CUT EVERY CORNER,
DO EVERY--EVERY INNOVATIVE,
PROBABLY ILLEGAL THING THAT YOU CAN DO,
YOU KNOW, JUST TO FEED YOUR FAMILY.
RIGHT.
LIKE, RICE, BEANS AND A LITTLE--
LITTLE BIT OF PROTEIN. THIS WOULD BE UNTHINKABLE.
I MEAN, THERE ARE A FEW RESTAURANTS THAT HAVE THIS---
STATE-OWNED RESTAURANTS FOR TOURISTS.
YEAH.
SO YOU REALLY THINK IT'S GONNA BE--
THINGS ARE GONNA CHANGE...
YEAH.
WHEN CASTRO DIES?
OH.
THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.
GOOD FOOD, MAN.
HOW YOU DOING?
YEAH, IT'S EXCELLENT.
REALLY GOOD. REALLY HAPPY.
THANKS. ENJOY THE REST OF YOUR MEAL.
THANKS.
YOU NEED ANYTHING, LET ME KNOW.
THANKS.
AND ALL I CAN SAY IS, THEY DON'T HAVE THIS IN CUBA,
BUT--BUT THEY WILL.
YEAH.
YOU KNOW? AND THEY WILL SOON.
AND CERTAINLY IN HIS LIFETIME.
CERTAINLY--EVEN IN MY LIFETIME. IN ALL OF OUR LIFETIMES.
SURE.
IT'S GONNA... IT'S GONNA CHANGE.
(clock ticking)
(clicking)
BASICALLY, WHEN PEOPLE THINK ABOUT MIAMI,
THE THINK ABOUT THE CUBAN TRADITION.
SO YOU--YOU'RE THAT CLOSE.
SO, BASICALLY, WHEN YOU COME TO MIAMI,
THERE'S NO WAY YOU CAN GET OUT OF MIAMI
WITHOUT A MOJITO.
OH, I LOVE MOJITO. I LOVE CAIPIRINHAS.
AND, UM, SINCE I'M FROM TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO,
I HAVE TO SAY RUM AND COKE IS AT THE TOP OF THE LIST.
EVERYONE ENJOYS THEIR BEACH DRINKS HERE.
AND AFTER THREE, IT'S ON. (laughs)
ANOTHER DAY IN PARADISE.
I AM A CREATURE OF HABIT.
SAME PLACE AT THE POOL FOR YEARS.
THANK YOU.
PERHAPS A BEVERAGE.
ANOTHER OPTION ON A PERFECT DAY LIKE THIS
IS JUST A FEW STEPS AWAY AT THE RALEIGH BEACHFRONT.
THERE'S SKIN CANCER,
OR YOU CAN RENT A JET SKI
AND SEE IF YOU CAN FURTHER ERODE
OUR REMAINING CORAL REEFS,
IF THERE ARE ANY LEFT LIVING.
WITH ANY LUCK, YOU'LL HIT A MANATEE
OR, LIKE, FLIPPER. HE'S FROM AROUND HERE, RIGHT?
POOL OR BEACH--YOU DECIDE.
ME, I'M OLD. I'M LAZY. I AIN'T MOVIN'.
SITTING BY THE POOL, BY THE WAY,
IS THE ONLY ACCEPTABLE PLACE TO HAVE A FROTHY BLENDER DRINK
GARNISHED WITH A STRAWBERRY.
IT'S PERFECTLY OKAY THEN.
UNLESS YOU'RE WEARING, LIKE, A-A BANANA HAMMOCK
IN THE--IN THE SAME COLOR AS YOUR DRINK.
THAT'S A LITTLE DUBIOUS.
YOU WANNA GO THE OTHER WAY, MEANING "WAKE UP,"
THERE'S THE CORTADITO,
AVAILABLE ANYWHERE IN LITTLE HAVANA,
OR A CAFÉ CON LECHE OR CAFECITO,
OR CUBAN ESPRESSO JET FUEL.
THE CAFECITO IS THE 1-SHOT VERSION.
I'M NOT SUPPOSED TO SWIM 'CAUSE OF MY TATTOO,
SO IT'S TIME TO FIND ME SOME LUNCH.
DOWNTOWN MIAMI AGAIN.
A PLACE CALLED THE S&S DINER.
THIS GLORIOUSLY UNCHANGED-BY-TIME GREASY SPOON
DATES BACK TO THE 1930s.
INSIDE, OLD-SCHOOL COMMUNAL SEATING
AROUND A HORSESHOE BAR WITH STOOLS.
MANNING THE FLOOR IS LONGTIME EMPLOYEE MELANIE.
EVERY DAY, THEY'RE THE SAME PEOPLE,
LIKE, FOR BREAKFAST.
SOME PEOPLE COME BACK FOR LUNCH.
EVERYONE COMES HERE SINCE THEY WERE,
YOU KNOW, A LITTLE CHILD.
YOU KNOW, WE HAVE CUSTOMERS THAT SAY,
"MY DADDY BROUGHT ME HERE. MY GRANDMOTHER BROUGHT ME HERE."
YOU KNOW? IT HAS A GOOD HISTORY.
THIS PLACE IS A STEP BACK IN TIME.
WHAT'LL YOU HAVE TODAY?
UH, THE MEAT LOAF LOOKS GOOD.
YEAH, I THINK I'LL HAVE THAT.
MEAT LOAF.
CAN I ALSO GET SOME GRITS AND GRAVY?
UH, I'LL HAVE SOME PEAS. THAT'D BE GREAT.
PEAS? OKAY.
YEAH.
SOMETHING TO DRINK?
UH, ICED TEA, PLEASE?
(speaks indistinctly)
GREAT.
MEAT LOAF?
YES!
OR YOU COULD GO HAITIAN OVER AT CHEZ LE BEBE
FOR THEIR VERSION OF GRIOT--
FRIED PORK SHOULDER SERVED WITH SWEET PLANTAINS AND SALAD.
OR PERHAPS THE BAHAMIAN POT,
ALSO IN LITTLE HAITI, APPEALS.
TRUDY ELLIS
AND THREE GENERATIONS OF HER FAMILY RUN THIS PLACE.
(clatter)
I OPENED THIS IN '89.
THERE WAS NO BAHAMIAN RESTAURANT AROUND WHEN I OPENED THIS,
NONE AT ALL.
SO I SAID LET ME GIVE IT A TRY.
AND IT WAS A SMALL, LITTLE ONE-SIDED BUILDING.
AND THEN THE CUSTOMERS KEPT COMING AND COMING,
AND I OPENED THE OTHER SIDE.
AND FROM THEN UNTIL NOW,
I'VE BEEN DOING THE SAME THING RIGHT HERE.
ONE OF THE BEST MEALS HERE
IS THEIR BREAKFAST OF BOILED FISH AND GRITS
SERVED WITH JOHNNY CAKES
MADE OF SWEET, BUTTERY CORN MEAL AND MILK BATTER--
ALL GREAT.
IF YOU'RE CRAVING ISLAND CUISINE,
THIS IS A PLACE YOU DON'T WANNA PASS BY.
I NEED MEAT LOAF...
AND GRITS.
AND, YES, THOSE ARE CANNED PEAS.
THANKS SO MUCH.
LOOKS ALL RIGHT?
YEAH.
BET YOU DIDN'T KNOW THAT IT'S FAMOUSLY SORT OF
THE SIGNATURE DISH OF MIAMI WAS MEAT LOAF.
CREATE A WELL.
I HAVE A WEAKNESS FOR COMMERCIAL GRAVY.
ACTUALLY, DON'T TELL ANYONE.
FEEL LIKE I'M IN AN ALTERNATE UNIVERSE.
IT'S KIND OF "TWILIGHT ZONE-Y"
LIKE I'M GONNA LEAVE HERE AND FIND OUT
THAT THE WORLD OUTSIDE THESE DOORS HAVE DISAPPEARED.
NO ONE'S LEFT ALIVE. IT'S JUST US.
GRAVY MASTER. MMM.
YEAH. CULTIVATING THAT HARD BODY FOR THE BEACH.
(clock ticking)
(clicking)
WELL, THERE ARE MANY INFLUENCES,
MANY THINGS THAT BROUGHT ATTENTION TO MIAMI BEACH.
ONE WAS "MIAMI VICE,"
AND THAT STYLE OF CLOTHING CAUGHT ON.
MICHAEL MANN CAME IN WITH "MIAMI VICE,"
AND HE DECIDED TO PAINT THE BUILDINGS
THE BEAUTIFUL COLORS
AND MAKE THEM THE SETS FOR THE TV SHOW.
BACK IN THE LATE '80s, I WAS A REALTOR,
AND I JUST WATCHED, UH, BODEGAS ON THE BEACH
TRANSFORM INTO NIGHTCLUBS.
WITHIN, I WOULD SAY, 15 YEARS,
IT'S CHANGED ABOUT 4,000%.
IT'S GONE FROM THE WILD, WILD WEST TO, UM...
SAINT-TROPEZ.
YO, DON JOHNSON,
TIME TO GET OUT IN THE WATER.
SEE MIAMI FROM OUT THERE.
PRIVATE BOAT TOURS OR CHARTERS ARE RELATIVELY AFFORDABLE,
WHETHER YOU WANNA KILL FISH, DUMP A BODY,
OR JUST LOOK AROUND.
♪♪
I'M SO EXCITED ABOUT A BOAT RIDE!
A BOAT RIDE! I LOVE BOATS.
I'M HEADING OUT ON THE WATER WITH MICHAEL SCHWARTZ,
CHEF/OWNER OF MIAMI'S PREEMINENT RESTAURANT,
MICHAEL'S GENUINE.
WE'RE MEETING AT THE CRANDON MARINA
IN KEY BISCAYNE, A SMALL, RESIDENTIAL ISLAND
LOCATED JUST SOUTH OF MIAMI BEACH.
(clink)
MANNING THE WHEELY THING--
WHAT DO YOU CALL THAT? THE HELM?
CAPTAIN FRANK.
OUR DESTINATION'S UP THERE ON THE HORIZON.
STILTVILLE. STILTS-- STILTSVILLE, RIGHT?
STILTSVILLE.
YOU CAN SEE THOSE SHACK-- THOSE SHACKS.
THOSE HOMES.
NOW WHAT--WHAT'S THE ORIGIN OF THIS--OF THIS PLACE?
IT HAS A VERY COLORFUL HISTORY.
THE DOCUMENTATION CURRENTLY SAYS 1930s.
WE HAD BACK IN THOSE DAYS RUM RUNNERS,
THAT HAD THE EQUIVALENT OF BIG CIGARETTE BOATS TODAY.
AND THE STORY GOES,
THEY WOULD SELL THE *** RIGHT OFF THE PORCHES.
OH, THESE WERE ESSENTIALLY HOMES...
OR HOME-LIKE STRUCTURES
BUILT OUT ON THE WATER ON STILTS...
BY--BY SQUATTERS.
IT'S BEEN A HANGOUT SINCE THE '30s.
YEAH, THAT'S A SERIOUS PARTY SPACE.
YEAH, AND THAT ONE LOOKS LIKE IT'S IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE.
THIS ONE LOOKS LIKE IT NEEDS A LITTLE WORK.
WHAT I UNDERSTAND IS SOME OF THE HURRICANES OVER THE YEARS
KIND OF TOOK ONE OUT, TWO OUT,
BUT THEN ANDREW REALLY DEVASTATED IT.
RIGHT. WHAT YEAR WAS THAT?
'92.
1992.
AUGUST OF '92.
SO PEOPLE WERE STILL LIVING--
THERE WAS STILL A COMMUNITY OF PEOPLE OUT THERE?
OH, YEAH.
AROUND HOW MANY PEOPLE?
I DON'T KNOW THAT ANYONE REALLY LIVED THERE ALL THE TIME,
BUT WEEKENDS, PARTIES.
SO BASICALLY, THEY WERE UNPOLICED,
UH, FOR MUCH OF THAT TIME?
THEY WERE, BUT AFTER ANDREW,
THE PARKS DEPARTMENT TOOK THEM OVER.
AND THEY HAVE RANGERS AND, UH, THEY--THEY PATROL IT.
RIGHT.
YEAH.
BUT YOU SEE, I REMEMBER GOING ON THE HOUSE.
YEAH?
YEAH, AND IT WASN'T THAT-- MAYBE TEN YEARS AGO.
I MEAN, IT MUST BE AWESOME, YOU KNOW,
TO PUT UP A--HANG A HAMMOCK
OR A--YOU KNOW, PUT A COT IN THERE
AND JUST KICK BACK.
AND JUST GO, BRING A COOLER,
AND--YEAH. EAT STONE CRABS, AND...
LITTLE HIBACHI?
YEAH.
(Michael) EVERY TIME I COME OUT ON A BOAT,
I WONDER WHY I DON'T SPEND MORE TIME OUT ON A BOAT.
(Frank) YEP. THERE'S NO BETTER PLACE TO BE.
I FEEL ALL STEELY DAN AND (bleep) LOOKING AT THIS.
GOOD LYRICS. HATED THEIR ARRANGEMENTS.
(Michael) THIS SPECTACULAR LIGHT IS JUST AMAZING HERE.
I MEAN, THERE'S THOSE LITTLE THINGS
ABOUT LIVING HERE THAT ARE MAGICAL.
YEAH.
BUT THIS...
IT'S EXACTLY THIS THAT MAKES ME--
EVERY TIME I COME DOWN HERE, I THINK, YOU KNOW,
I SHOULD COME-- I SHOULD MOVE HERE.
YEAH.
THE (bleep) AM I DOING?
I CAN'T LEAVE MIAMI
WITHOUT CHECKING OUT THEIR VIBRANT AND GROWING
FOOD TRUCK SCENE.
THEY CIRCLE THE WAGONS, SO TO SPEAK,
AT PLACES LIKE THIS--
TROPICAL PARK IN SOUTH MIAMI.
EVERY KIND OF MOBILE EDIBLE DELICIOUSNESS AND MADNESS,
FROM CUBANO BURGERS TO ASIAN-INSPIRED WINGS,
TO TATER TOTS AND BEYOND.
WHERE DO THEY ALL COME FROM?
WERE THEY JUST WANDERING AROUND TILL THEY FOUND A HOME?
YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN?
UH, THIS IS, LIKE, A RELATIVELY NEW PHENOMENON.
RIGHT.
AND I THINK WITHIN THE LAST YEAR,
IT REALLY-- THIS REALLY HAPPENED.
AND IT HAPPENED SO FAST,
IN THIS KIND OF UNREGULATED WAY,
I THINK THEY'RE JUST TRYING TO FIGURE IT OUT NOW.
AND THE CITY'S JUST TRYING TO FIGURE OUT
HOW THEY CAN DEAL WITH IT...
(cheers)
BUT MOSTLY SCREW IT UP.
MAYBE JUST START THERE, AND WORK IN A...
YEAH. WELL, THERE'S A GOOD ONE.
WHAT? WHICH ONE?
THAT'S CALLED SAKAYA KITCHEN.
THE DIM SSAM DUDES?
YES, THAT'S RIGHT.
YOU WANNA EAT?
LIKE, A LITTLE SOMETHING SMALL AND DELICIOUS, SURE.
THE SAKAYA TRUCK SERVES UP BOXED MEALS
LIKE SHORT RIB CHUNK CHEESY SPICY TATER TOTS
AND GINGER BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
BUT I'M GOING FOR THE IRRESISTIBLE-SOUNDING
CRACKLING DUCK HERB SANDWICH.
SERVED ON A POTATO ROLL WITH MUSTARD AND KETCHUP
AND GARNISHED WITH BLACK PLUM CILANTRO.
THAT IS A FINE-LOOKING SANDWICH.
(man) THAT'S THE DUCK SANDWICH RIGHT THERE.
THAT'S THE DUCK. BEAUTIFUL THING. THANK YOU.
LOOKS LIKE A MARTIN'S POTATO BUN TO ME.
MY FAVORITE.
IT'S A--KIND OF AN EAST MEETS WEST THING GOING ON.
IT'S DELICIOUS.
TRY SOME?
HELL, YEAH.
THERE ARE COUNTLESS FOOD OPTIONS
AT THIS FOOD TRUCK FIESTA.
AT GRILL MASTER,
WE CAN'T LAY OFF THE FRITA CUBAN,
A MIX OF GROUND BEEF AND GROUND SAUSAGE
SERVED WITH JULIENNE FRIES AND KETCHUP.
NICE.
(man) THAT'S GOOD?
MMM.
IT'S FLAVORFUL.
(man, amplified voice) ANTHONY BOURDAIN,
DOING IT BIG AT THE GRILL MASTER RIGHT NOW.
YOU GOTTA CHECK OUT--
AND, UH, MR. ANTHONY BOURDAIN WILL BE JOINING YOU.
WHEN YOU GUYS FINISH, WE GOTTA TALK.
(clock ticking)
(clicking)
FOR ME, I'M MORE INTO THE ISLAND FOODS HERE.
LET'S SEE--THE CARIBBEAN FOOD, OF COURSE--
YOU GOTTA GO TO LITTLE... LITTLE HAITI FOR SOMETHING.
THERE'S A LOT OF JAMAICAN, HAITIANS,
AND THEY'RE SUPER COOL.
YOU KNOW, THEY'LL JUST PAINT A HOT DOG
AND A PACK OF CIGARETTES
AND A LAMB ROAST AND A CHICKEN ROAST
RIGHT ON THE BUILDING.
ANY APPETITE--ANY FLAVOR YOU HAVE FOR THE DAY,
YOU CAN FIND IT HERE IN MIAMI.
(clicking)
MICHAEL'S GENUINE IN THE DESIGN DISTRICT
JUST NORTH OF DOWNTOWN
IS PROBABLY THE BEST RESTAURANT IN MIAMI RIGHT NOW.
LOCALS FLOCK TO MICHAEL'S
BECAUSE OF THE SERIOUSLY AMAZING FOOD,
A WELCOMING NEIGHBORHOOD PLACE THAT SHOWCASES
THE TYPE OF CUISINE THAT SCHWARTZ DOES BEST--
HOMEMADE AND STRAIGHTFORWARD,
WITH AN EMPHASIS PLACED ON FRESH LOCAL INGREDIENTS.
IT'S LATE, AND THE KITCHEN'S CLOSED,
BUT I HAPPEN TO KNOW SOMEBODY.
SO THEY'RE GOING TO WHIP US UP SOMETHING.
PIG'S EARS COOKED IN A DUTCH OVEN FOR HOURS
UNTIL SOFT AND TENDER, THEN CUT INTO STRIPS
AND DEEP-FRIED UNTIL GOLDEN BROWN.
TOSSED WITH A LITTLE SALT AND SPICE
AND SERVED WITH A WEDGE OF LIME,
THEY ARE A BAR SNACK UNIMPROVABLE BY MAN OR GOD.
IS THE WORLD READY FOR THIS?
(laughs)
IF THEY DIDN'T KNOW WHAT IT IS, THEY WOULD.
(crunches)
IF YOU'D CALL IT, UH, SPECIAL PORK,
PORK CRACKLINGS,
PEOPLE WOULD BE ALL OVER THIS...
THIS IS THE MOST EXCITING PORK DISH I'VE HAD.
CRISPY PIG EARS.
I THINK PEOPLE ARE READY.
(laughs)
(crunching)
DEVILED EGGS?
I AM A BIG *** FOR NON-IRONIC DEVILED EGGS.
DO I HAVE TO TELL YOU HOW TO MAKE A DEVILED EGG?
I SERIOUSLY (bleep) HOPE NOT.
YOU KNOW, IF YOU'RE AMERICAN,
WHEN--WHEN YOU COME INTO THE UNITED STATES
FROM A FOREIGN COUNTRY,
THEY SHOULDN'T HAVE TO GIVE YOU A FULL PAT DOWN.
THEY SHOULD OFFER YOU ONE OF THESE.
(laughing)
'CAUSE IF YOU LOVE AMERICA, YOU WILL LOVE THIS.
THERE'S NOTHING LIKE A GOOD PAT DOWN, THOUGH.
COME ON.
IF, FOR SOME REASON, YOU'VE ALREADY EATEN AT MICHAEL'S,
YOU CAN THEN GO TO PUBBELLY
IN THE WESTERN PART OF MIAMI BEACH.
KIND OF A GASTROPUB KIND OF A PLACE,
THEY DO SHORT RIB STEAK TARTARE
WITH YUZU DIJONNAISE, CHIVES,
AND--WAIT FOR IT-- SOFT QUAIL EGG.
SERVED WITH GOAT BUTTER AND TOAST.
WHAT IS NOT TO LOVE ABOUT THAT?
AND, OF COURSE, THEIR SIGNATURE PORK BELLY.
COMMUNAL TABLES AND A LOCAL CROWD
SO YOU MIGHT ACTUALLY MEET SOMEBODY WHO KNOWS SOMETHING.
MEANWHILE, BACK AT THE BAR, LOCAL FLORIDIAN CHANTERELLES
LIGHTLY SAUTÉED IN BUTTER AND THYME
SERVED OVER A SCRAMBLED GUINEA HEN EGG
WITH SOME SHAVED PIAVE VECCHIO CHEESE.
BROWN TURKEY FIGS FROM CALIFORNIA
ARE SLICED AND TOPPED WITH HAZELNUTS AND ARUGULA,
LOCAL HONEY-- WHICH IS AMAZING, BY THE WAY--
AND SEA SALT.
YOU CAME HERE 17 YEARS AGO.
CORRECT.
WHAT--WHAT--WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST, UH,
WHAT BROUGHT YOU DOWN HERE IN THE FIRST PLACE?
THE EARLY 90s, REMEMBER,
LIKE, THAT WAS THE--THE HEIGHT OF, YOU KNOW,
THE--THE TRANSFORMATION OF SOUTH BEACH.
OH, SO THEN IT WAS EARLY.
LIKE, DON JOHNSON HAD YET TO TAKE OFF HIS WHITE JACKET?
OR HE HAD RECENTLY--
I THINK HE WAS DOING IT. YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.
HE WAS STILL--
YEAH. HE WAS-- HE WAS STILL DOING IT.
WHAT--WHY FLORIDA, THOUGH?
WHAT WAS THE FIRST TIME IT--WHAT WAS THE...
I CAME HERE...
RIGHT.
FOR A VISIT.
AND THERE WAS LOTS OF, UH, WOMEN.
MM-HMM.
BUT I JUST FELT LIKE THERE WAS NOT ENOUGH GOOD FOOD
AND LOTS OF DEMAND FOR IT.
WELL, I GOTTA TELL YOU--
GOOD--GOOD LAST MEAL IN, UH, IN MIAMI, MAN.
THANK YOU.
GLAD YOU ENJOY IT.
SO--CLUB DEUCE LATER? WHAT DO YOU SAY?
(Michael laughs)
MICHAEL NEEDS TO GO HOME TO HIS KIDS.
SO I DECIDE TO HEAD TO A PLACE EVEN CLOSER TO HOME
THAN MAC'S CLUB DEUCE.
(woman laughs)
(woman) OH, MY GOD!
COLLINS AVENUE CAN GET MAD LATE AT NIGHT.
BUT I USUALLY KEEP MY HEAD DOWN,
RETREAT BACK TO THE SAFETY OF THE DISCREET LITTLE BAR
IN MY BELOVED RALEIGH HOTEL,
THE NEGRONI BEING THE PERFECT NIGHTCAP
AND AID TO DIGESTION
AFTER THE RIGORS OF MY LAST DAY IN MIAMI.
THANKS.
IT'S BEEN A LONG DAY, HUH?
YEAH.
WELL, HOPEFULLY TOMORROW YOU'RE GONNA--
YOU'LL HAVE A GOOD DAY.
OH, YEAH. I'M--I'M OPTIMISTIC.
IT'S ALL IN THE GAME, YO. IT'S ALL IN THE GAME.
(car horn honks in distance)
(clock ticks)
(clicking)
PEOPLE COME OVER HERE, THEY SPEND IN MIAMI,
ONE OF THEM, THEY STAY, THEY MOVE ON.
LIKE, FROM HERE, YOU CAN GO ALL OVER.
I LOVE THE WEATHER, THE BEACHES,
I LOVE THE DIVERSITY OF PEOPLE THAT ARE HERE.
NO MATTER WHERE YOU WALK,
YOU'RE LOOKING AT INTERESTING BUILDINGS,
INTERESTING FLOWERS,
AND INTERESTING PEOPLE.
I'VE BEEN TO MANY CITIES,
BUT THIS IS CERTAINLY ONE OF THE BEST CITIES ON EARTH.
(squeaks)
(man) ♪ TIME, TIME, TIME KEEPS ON SLIPPIN' ♪
♪ AWAY ♪
♪ AND MY MIND, MIND, MIND KEEPS ON TRIPPIN' ♪
♪ EVERY DAY, YEAH ♪
♪ OH, YEAH ♪
♪♪
RISE. SHOWER OUTSIDE.
A BREAKFAST BEVERAGE, PERHAPS.
I FEEL, LOOKING OUT OVER MIAMI,
LIKE MASTER OF THE UNIVERSE.
THE WORLD IS MINE. TONY MONTANA.
ACTUALLY, NO.
I FEEL MORE LIKE SOME LARGE MAMMAL
LEFT AN UPPER DECKER IN MY HEAD.
BUT THIS IS HELPING.
YES. YES, IT IS.
♪♪
I COULD PRETTY MUCH HAVE HAPPILY SPENT
THE WHOLE TIME HANGING OUT UP HERE
AND AT THE POOL.
I MEAN, COME ON-- NOT TOO SHABBY, MY FRIEND.
♪ AND MY MIND, MIND, MIND KEEPS ON TRIPPIN' ♪
OBVIOUSLY, WHEN YOU TRAVEL FOR A LIVING,
YOU GET TO SEE SOME EXTRAORDINARY PLACES--
THAT'S THE UPSIDE.
THE DOWNSIDE--
YOU SPEND LOTS OF TIME IN AIRPORTS.
BUT THERE ARE A FEW THINGS I RECOMMEND YOU DO
TO MAKE THESE LAYOVERS AT LEAST A LITTLE BIT EASIER.
HI. HOW YOU DOING? PERSONALLY, IF I LOOK OVER,
AND I SEE, LIKE, THE CURB CHECK GUYS EMPTY,
NOBODY THERE, I'M GOING FOR THAT.
IT'S SO MUCH FASTER, SO MUCH LESS HASSLE.
YOU COMPLETELY AVOID THE LINE. AND FOR SOME REASON, OUT HERE,
THEY SPEND MINIMAL TIME CLACKING AWAY ON THE KEYBOARD.
IN THERE, IT'S LIKE,
"CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK- CLACK-CLACK-CLACK" FOREVER.
LIKE THEY'RE WRITING A BOOK OR SOMETHING.
SO A FEW EXTRA DOLLARS
AND MAJOR REDUCTION IN PAIN-IN-THE-*** QUOTIENT.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
THANK YOU, SIR, I APPRECIATE IT.
HAVE A GOOD FLIGHT.
I MEAN, LOOK AT THAT.
MAJOR AIRPORT IN A MAJOR CITY, MIAMI.
TOTAL CHECK-IN TIME-- TWO MINUTES.
COST--$5.
TO DO OTHERWISE WOULD BE MADNESS.
HELLO.
HI. HOW ARE YOU, SIR?
GOOD, THANK YOU.
NEW YORK?
NEW YORK.
♪ AND TIME, TIME, TIME KEEPS ON SLIPPIN' ♪
♪ AWAY ♪
(clicking)
♪ AND MY MIND, MIND... ♪