Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
Hello and welcome to the USA Track & Field Course Measurement Video.
I'm Lance Phegley.
This video will illustrate the proper procedures to accurately measure road race
course. It should be used as a supplement to the USA Track & Field course
measurement procedures manual which can be found at the web site below.
Today we're going to illustrate the correct techniques to measure a course
using the shortest possible route. But before we do so, let's go over some of
the items you'll need to get started.
Tools of the trade include a bicycle with a kick stand. That's right
you'll find important to add a kick stand
or put back the one you took off.
Other necessities including Jones/Oreth counter mounted on the front wheel
of the bike,
a can of spray paint,
hammer, nails and tin caps, notebook,
pencil, carpenters chalk, a thermometer, a small calculator and a tape measure.
Now, let me introduce Tom MacBrayer, Vice Chairman West of the Road Running
Technical Council.
Tom has been measuring and certifying courses for over fifteen years, and is
one of the nation's experts in course measurements.
Tom, we've given a brief overview of some of the tools of the trade. Why don't you
explain some of these items in detail.
There's no substitute for the Jones/Orerth counter.
No Cat-Eyes. No measuring wheels.
Not if you want to have a certified course.
It's the only device
recognized by RRTC for measuring new courses to be certified.
The counter mounts on the front wheel of your bike.
As a bike wheel turns,
the spokes contact
this projection on the counter
and advance the numbers.
When you see the counter an hold it in your hand, the mechanism will become
apparent.
Instructions for mounting and using the counter are in the manual.
Beside the bike and the counter, most the other items can be obtained at a
hardware store.
I use a marking paint which is used by surveyors to mark utility lines.
It's available in upside down cans from surveyors equipment stores. Marking paint
fades relatively fast, compared to a enamel.
So, when it is used in residential areas, you won't get quite so many complaints as when
you use something more permanent.
While you are at the surveyor store or hardware store, pickup some carpenters chalk,
PK nails and tin caps.
If these are not available in your area, washers are handy.
You use the chalk for temporary markings and the nails and washers for more
permanent markings.
The thermometer is used to note the temperature at the start and finish of
each ride.
Both for your calibration rides and your measurements. I have a small thermometer
the hangs on the bicycle.
The hammer is used to drive the nails.
When you purchase a calculator be sure it's not a solar-powered one
because you can't read it in the dark.
We all know what a notebook and a pencil look like.
A thirty meter or one hundred foot steel table will round out your list of
necessities.
As your technique develops, you'll add other devices to assist you.
And, it shouldn't be necessary to say it, but we'll say it anyway. NEVER go without
your helmet!
We do need to bring to your attention that whatever you're going to have on
you,
or your bike, during the course measurement,
should be on you,
or your bike, during calibration.
There should be no weight
variation.
The procedure begin with four rides to calibrate your bicycle for the day. This
is done on a flat,
level straightaway course of a known distance.
Try to find a straightaway with light traffic and no stop signs.
Calibration courses should be at least three hundred meters long.
Since most races are held at metric distances, you may want to lay down a
three hundred meter or five hundred meter calibration course.
How to do that is explained in detail in the manual.
I might add that this particular cal course lies between two,
very specific, convenient points and is not an even distance. Since I do most of
my measured at night, I layout my cal courses between two prominent features
such as expansion joints.
That way I don't have to look for paint marks on the street.
Following a warm-up ride of three minutes or more,
set the counter by turning the front wheel to a convenient number.
Some people like zeros on the end. That's not necessary. Do what you feel
comfortable with. What is important, is that if roll the counter past the
mark you're looking for,
you need to roll it back,
past that mark,
and then roll forward again into the count.
For example, if you want three zeros on the end,
and you roll forward to zero zero one,
you must roll back,
past the zeros, and then roll forward, stopping exactly at three zeros, freezing
the wheel with the brake.
Rolling forward into the count eliminates any backlash from the counter.
Be sure to read the section the manual.
Place of front axle directly over the end point of the calibration course.
Record the date and time of calibration, and the temperature.
Note again your start count from the Jones/Orerth counter and enter it in the notebook.
Now ride the calibration course, riding as straight as possible,
and nonstop if possible.
Stop the bicycle just before reaching the end of the cal course and roll it
slowly forward until the front axle is directly over the finish point.
Record the count.
With the front wheel locked, turn the bicycle around,
and place of front axle directly over the line for the next ride.
You'll need to do this procedure four times.
But, for this video,
we'll do it only twice.
Alternate directions on the course. Two rides in one direction and two in the other.
The average count for the four rides is used to get your working constant to
layout the course.
We refer you to the measurement manual for that procedure.
It will also tell you how to figure your total count for the distance you will be
measuring, and for your intermediate splits.
When you have finished the pre-cal, record the time and temperature in your book.
We move now to the proposed course. And, here we are to starting line.
In this video we are beginning at the start,
because it's more convenient. However, your race director may have a fixed
finish line.
In that case you'll begin at the finish and work back to the start.
Mark your start point with a thin paint line. Remember that you may have to
adjust it.
In your notebook, indicate tape distances to fixed landmarks to help
relocate this point. Place the front axle of your bicycle over the start line and
rotate the wheel forward
until you reach in number you're comfortable with.
Again, most people prefer at least two zeros, and perhaps three.
It is not necessary, just simplifies the arithmetic.
Now be careful to avoid backlash effect
from the counter.
Record this initial count in your notebook. Then calculate to count for each
split you will be measuring
by adding your working constant to the initial count.
The manual gives a good explanation of this procedure.
Mount the bike and begin the first measurement. As you head toward your first split, here are
some techniques that could be used.
First, note that the measurement is made approximately thirty centimeters,
(twelve inches)
from the curb, or twenty centimeters
(eight inches) from the edge of the road if there is no curb.
Already we see an obstacle - a car parked directly in front of us.
Ride directly up to the obstacle.
Freeze your front wheel, Discount and move the bike
from behind the obstacle,
being careful to move perpendicular to the curve.
Released the front brake.
Roll forward so the bike will clear the obstacle.
Freeze the wheel again and move the bike in towards the curb.
Remount and continue your measurement.
Here, we make a right turn. We'll need to slow down and scooter to maintain thirty
centimeter distance from the curb.
Coming around the corner, we note that the next turn will be a left one.
Keep your eye on that corner, diagonally across from you,
where you'll turn left and head straight for that corner.
Again, slowdown as you approach to make the turn, thirty centimeters from the
curb.
Taking the tangent, or using the diagonal is way a smart runner will run the
course.
This is also referred to as the shortest possible route or SPR.
Sometimes, there will bee too much traffic to do this,
or you may have an extended distance before the left turn.
In either case you'll probably want to use an offset maneuver
which we'll demonstrate next.
As we take a right turn again, we stay on the right side of the road, parallel
to the curb,
and right down to the corner where the course turns left.
Remember to maintain a thirty centimeter distance from the curb.
Choose a spot
such as an expansion joint in the concrete
or, a painted traffic line that goes across the street.
And, stop your bike at that point.
Freeze the front wheel, dismount and carry the bike to a point directly across the
street. Then remount and turn the corner.
As you round this next corner we keep an eye out for the first intermediate
split.
Uh-oh! We missed it on the counter but not by much.
So, we will roll the bike backward going farther back than necessary. Then roll
forward again into the count you are looking for.
Remember, that rolling forward into the count eliminates any backlash
from the counter.
Mark the spot with a thin coat of paint.
Note landmarks in your notebook and we're off again.
What to do if an obstacle presents itself such as this locked gate.
We don't just pick up the bike and go around the barrier.
Using the procedure shown in the video uses up counts on the course where they
should be used and keeps a course from being overly long.
Ride the bike right up to the gate, front wheel touching.
Freeze the wheel and dismount.
Take your builder's chalk, reach down and make a marked on the road surface at the
back of the wheel.
With the front wheel still frozen, pick up the bike and place the front of the front
wheel over the chalk mark.
Release the brake and roll forward until the front wheel touches the gate again.
Now, freeze the front wheel again, pick up the bike and move to the other side of
the barrier.
No, it's not always as easy as this but you'll find a way.
On the other side of the barrier
put the bike down with the back wheel touching the fence and you're off again.
This area of the park has a lot of curves. Not a straightaway insight. So, we'll make
our own straightaway.
We measure the straightest and shortest path possible,
taking the tangents, moving from one side of the road
to the other as necessary -
the SPR -
just as you'll do if you were running it.
If the runners will be restricted to one side of the road
we'll measure the same way but use only half the road.
We're approaching the second intermediate split.
Roll up to a slowly so it's not overshoot.
Freeze the wheel,
dismount, mark the split and enter locations in your notebook.
Now we're rolling up to our final destination - the finish line.
Again, use only a thin paint line for now.
Note the time the temperature in your notebook,
and your first measurement is complete.
Back to the start line for the second measurement which will go a lot faster.
Place the front axle on the start line. Take a reading from the counter and write it in your
notebook.
Note the time also.
Now, ride the course again using the SPR.
Stop at each measured intermediate point to take a reading from the counter.
When you reach the finish line, note the reading, the time and the temperature.
At this point
you'll do your calculations a determinative if your two rides are within
tolerance.
Now, take four more rides of the calibration course.
Calculate your constant again.
If your post-cal constant is greater than your pre-cal constant,
you'll have to make some adjustments to the course.
The manuals is very detailed about this and how to make adjustments.
When you determine exactly where the finish line should be, mark it well.
A tin cap and PK nail can be used as well as paint
and a large "F."
You'll also need accurately taped distance to permit landmarks.
Make a detailed sketch of both your start and finish lines
and note to the taped distances on the sketch.
You'll use this later on your course map.
We'd like to show you one more measurement technique - a U-turn or
turn-around point,
often used for an out and back course.
You usually have a fixed point to measure to.
Here we've marked it with a cone placed over tin cap
and a concrete nail.
Ride to that point. Freeze the front wheel.
Dismount.
Turn the bike around
and place the axle at the same point where you stopped.
Release the brake and you're off again.
That should bring things to a close here on the USA Track & Field course
measurement video.
This video, along with the course measurement procedures manual, will guide
you through measuring course using the SPR.
If you have any questions please refer to the web site below. Or fell free to email any of
the following experts they'll be more than happy to answer any questions that
you might have.
Thanks for joining us. I'm Lance Phegley and we'll see you on the roads.